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shipaholic
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I was able to spend a bit of time on the ship this weekend. I made the cat blocks and I was a bit disappointed that I couldn't figure out a way to simulate the wider centre of the iron band around the block where the sheave pin goes through. I started making the second anchor as well.
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Hi people, been away for a few weeks (holiday in Thailand) hoping to get back into the build this week. Here's a broadside view of how she is at the moment
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Nice work! your planking is great and you have the run of the planks and wales (curvature) spot-on
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Been busy this weekend made the rest of the futtock deadeyes, I used copper wire to make them then filled them in with solder and filed them flat and drilled the hole for the hook. I finished off the foremast and top, added the block for the main topmast stay. Now to finish the main mast and top.
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Hi Mike I am not serving the small blocks - too much detail that can't be seen, too difficult to do properly, I use black linen thread (see pic). I am serving the larger blocks and hearts, I have a serving machine that I bought off Alexey Domanoff, it works really good. I just use hemp coloured sewing cotton for serving. Steve
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I am working on attaching the various blocks to the masts and tops. I stropped and fitted the block for the main topmast preventer stay. Fitted the blocks on the underside of the fore top.
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Yes Greg I did the same, I used closed hearts on mine because the replica has them. I posted a good photo of the replica bowsprit on Mikes log. I discovered the reason for open hearts when I was researching it for Mike. Steve
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Hi Mike I answered your question in your build log. They should be open hearts so that the jib boom can be slid back. Cheers Steve
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Hi Mike Just found the answer to your question. Open hearts are used where the collar is above the jibboom, like on the Victory (pic of My Vic below) The collars on the Endeavour are not above the jibboom so closed hearts can be used, but they would more likely be open hearts so the jibboom could be slid back if it needed to be. Steve
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Hi Mike Re your question about the hearts, I couldn't find a definite answer either in my references. Lees in The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War shows closed hearts for that period, the Endeavour replica has closed hearts also - and it is a well researched ship. So I went with closed hearts on my Endeavour. Steve
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Hi Geoff I used thin wire for the footrope stirrups on my Endeavour. Wire is only way you can get them to "hang" vertical. I used linen thread for the foot ropes. If you crimp the wire stirrup tight around the footrope you can then get the footrope to "sag" by teasing it into shape, wetting the footrope will help also. Here's a couple of pics of the result. Steve
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Hi Mike I soaked the wood in hot water then made a simple jig with nails in a block of wood to keep it bent until it dried. I'm not sure now whether the bowsprit was actually curved or the curvature shown on the draughts is just the taper, the AOTS shows it as being curved so I did it like that. Its only a slight curve but it really is noticeable. I just saw your comments on Banyan's log. I didn't use the wood supplied by Eaglemoss, you're right its too thick. I went to Bunnings and bought some dowel the correct diameter. Steve
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Hi again Mike Here is a pic of the caldercraft 74mm anchor on a 1:51 scaled drawing. Not too bad, about 1mm too long and a little bit thick in places but it should look fine. Steve
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Hi Mike I made the anchor myself out of brass, I need two bower anchors and have since found that Caldercraft have them at the right size so I bought the second one. I won't be using the stock supplied with the Caldercraft one though, its totally wrong. Here's some pics of the first one unpainted, and compared to the ones supplied with the partwork. Cheers Steve
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Mike, I just bought a Caldercraft anchor for my Endeavour, the correct scale for the ship we are building is the 74mm one. Cheers Steve
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Thanks Bindy and Nils
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Hi Ollie I built the exact same kit about 20 years ago (pics in the completed gallery here), the box artwork on mine was exactly the same so probably a similar vintage (I still have the box). When I built mine I did minimal painting because I wanted to produce more an ornamental piece rather than an exact scale model but I also did a few modifications to make it look more realistic and more like the Endeavour than it would have if I had just used the parts supplied and followed the AL instructions. I only used the wood supplied and the final outcome was pretty good, the deck planks and hull outer planking look okay. I mostly followed the instructions as there was no other reference material available to me at the time, so there a few things that are not quite right that annoy me now - the mast tops look too chunky, the line of the main wale isn't quite right and the stern doesn't look that good. The rigging blocks are fairly rough and chunky, so I individually sanded and lacquered each one which gave them a more accurate look. Every kit has its bad points but I'm sure you can make a good model from this one. Cheers Steve
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HMB Endeavour 1768 3D Model
shipaholic replied to ODemuth's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Fantastic work. It's great to see Marquardt's work translated to 3D. -
Today I fitted the heart and collar for the main preventer stay on the foremast. I have started making cleats, pretty fiddly because they are so small and I need about twenty four of them
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Fitting the woolding onto the masts, got the foremast top painted before running out of black paint.
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Thanks Rowan
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