scrubbyj427

Beautiful work Tiziano! Very inspiring! JJ

Thank you Ben, it’s coming along. Going to finish up the vertical fillers today and move onto the final port forward frames.

Hey guys, I’ve been working on the wing transoms today and I have both sides complete, a few revisions were required but it all went together pretty well except for the vertical fillers, they are a pain but they turned out decent. first we start with the inner post as seen below. It should fit nice and tight up to the deadwood, keel and the top of the bulkhead former. Note that it is .25” and is supposed to be thinner than the keel next is the second inner post piece, again same deal as the first one but also double check that it aligns with the wing transom cut outs on the former. Production model kits will be different than mine at the top of this piece as I revised that uppermost wing transom to have receivers for the post and the former. you can now start with the upper most wing transom which is .1875” and requires a slight bend, so use a heat gun and give it a little arc. Please pay attention when you glue it, that it’s not glued to the transom jig, there are receivers in the jig to hold this piece in place but only glue it to frames 52 and the inner post slots. Also note that you will need to bevel the transoms to run parallel with the angle of the inner post above you can see one of them in place before i beveled it. Also note that I dry fit them all before glueing and actually installed from the bottom up that way I could see the fit from the top. after they are all dry fit and in place you can begin glueing. once they are all solid you can work on the vertical fillers. I’ve given you an angle indicator line but there’s also the angle of the deadwood. This is a big sand and test and sand and test again job until you get them right. after this is all dry we are going to sand the bejesus out of this part so fair everything up. There’s a ton of extra material on those wings so you have room to work. the 5 lower wings are all parallel but the upper three, two have a bend in the top and the third one down (#6) angles down. This is shown in the painting and the framing plan. You can see it in this last photo. Now that the stern frames all work I can move on and finish the port forward frames, from there I can begin fairing up the hull which will be a monumental task, pear certainly doesn’t sand like AYC. Once the hull is faired I will run two strakes from the garboard up and two from the main wale down. Once the ports are framed and the planking from the wales up are complete this will pretty much conclude the first chapter of the build. JJ Quote Quote selection

Your figurehead turned out amazing, I’m curious to what machine you used to cut this? 4 axis?

Very nice work! This is a wonderful build and very inspiring.

What’s your Location? The mill and stash of wood sounds appealing depending on dimensions

I wonder how this actually happens, are they buying his kits and reverse engineering them or somehow getting into his design files? I can’t imagine the quality and fit of a reverse engineered kit is worth anything unless it’s completely copied/redesigned with some software… otherwise it would take less time and effort for one to just design their own.

The fit of parts looks really good Chris!

Lovely work. What a beautiful model!

Outstanding build!

Very nice work Marsalv!

Great progress! She’s starting to take shape.

Thank you Druxey. A complicated design but will make work on the rest of the model quite simple as well as affordable with a minimal use of expensive pear.

I’ve completed the aft frames 44-52, these frames are not perpendicular to the bulkhead former and require tapering at the bottom and a slight angle that progressively increases as the frames get closer to the stern. First the laser cut deadwood needs to be tapered. this can be achieved by attaching a 1/4” scrap piece to the stern of the bulkhead former this will establish where the inner stern post will sit on the deadwood so you know where to sand to. The same is done where the deadwood meets the keel and frame 43B. Except you will need to sand it slightly below the line at the keel so you have a rabbet for a plank to land on I sanded it down to shape but left material for final fairing of the hull once completely framed once attached you can begin the frames. Two frames will fit on each step and require tapering at the bottom, the taper will be provided in the instructions, try to get the as close as possible Begin framing aft at frame 44A, all the full frames are A’s and the short ones B. I installed all the A frames first and then completed the B frames afterward, it’s much easier to correctly fit them in this order. you can see above, frame 46B going in, once the bottom is correctly tapered it’s just a matter of sanding and test fitting until the B frame fits snug. Once all the aft frames are complete it’s time to move to the wing transoms. Frames 52 A and B have landings for the wings etched into them The wing transoms range from 3/16 to 9/32 in thickness and they are all numbered from 7 at the top down to 1 At the lowest . A quick test fit of the #6 wing transoms appears to fit well. Keep in mind there will be a ton of sanding in this area once these are all installed, especially around 52B. Next up is the completing all the wing transoms and the vertical timbers above the deadwood. Thanks for looking in JJ

Back to work on Portland prototype 2.0. The framing continues on the port side. Sand char, glue and repeat. Should have all the perpendicular frames done this evening. More updates to come soon! JJ