scrubbyj427

What’s your Location? The mill and stash of wood sounds appealing depending on dimensions

I wonder how this actually happens, are they buying his kits and reverse engineering them or somehow getting into his design files? I can’t imagine the quality and fit of a reverse engineered kit is worth anything unless it’s completely copied/redesigned with some software… otherwise it would take less time and effort for one to just design their own.

The fit of parts looks really good Chris!

Lovely work. What a beautiful model!

Outstanding build!

Very nice work Marsalv!

Great progress! She’s starting to take shape.

Thank you Druxey. A complicated design but will make work on the rest of the model quite simple as well as affordable with a minimal use of expensive pear.

I’ve completed the aft frames 44-52, these frames are not perpendicular to the bulkhead former and require tapering at the bottom and a slight angle that progressively increases as the frames get closer to the stern. First the laser cut deadwood needs to be tapered. this can be achieved by attaching a 1/4” scrap piece to the stern of the bulkhead former this will establish where the inner stern post will sit on the deadwood so you know where to sand to. The same is done where the deadwood meets the keel and frame 43B. Except you will need to sand it slightly below the line at the keel so you have a rabbet for a plank to land on I sanded it down to shape but left material for final fairing of the hull once completely framed once attached you can begin the frames. Two frames will fit on each step and require tapering at the bottom, the taper will be provided in the instructions, try to get the as close as possible Begin framing aft at frame 44A, all the full frames are A’s and the short ones B. I installed all the A frames first and then completed the B frames afterward, it’s much easier to correctly fit them in this order. you can see above, frame 46B going in, once the bottom is correctly tapered it’s just a matter of sanding and test fitting until the B frame fits snug. Once all the aft frames are complete it’s time to move to the wing transoms. Frames 52 A and B have landings for the wings etched into them The wing transoms range from 3/16 to 9/32 in thickness and they are all numbered from 7 at the top down to 1 At the lowest . A quick test fit of the #6 wing transoms appears to fit well. Keep in mind there will be a ton of sanding in this area once these are all installed, especially around 52B. Next up is the completing all the wing transoms and the vertical timbers above the deadwood. Thanks for looking in JJ

Back to work on Portland prototype 2.0. The framing continues on the port side. Sand char, glue and repeat. Should have all the perpendicular frames done this evening. More updates to come soon! JJ

Looking good! Great idea with the sanding templates. That will pay dividends way later in the build.

Lovely subject, looking forward to following your progress

Beautiful work Karl!

Just block sand it completely off that way you slowly remove it without chipping or scraping away at it. Then just refinish the wale.