Stuntflyer
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About Stuntflyer
- Currently Viewing Topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
- Birthday 07/23/1944
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Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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westwood reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Winchelsea 1764 by westwood - 1:48
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Looking very nice, indeed. One would never know that things have slowed down. -
Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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KentM reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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KentM reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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chris watton reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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Thank you!
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Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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One of the things I ran into was the inside of these timbers can be over faired if not careful. It could lead to areas that are too shallow be faired smoothly . Since your working in AYC I wouldn't worry too much about trying to get the inside faired perfectly at this stage. Maybe consider just angling close to the fairing lines but not on them. HTMS. Mike
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Looking really nice. Keep in mind that as you add more frames you will probably need to fair previously done ones some more. At least that's what I found. Mike
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Over the weekend I completed the construction of the inboard side of the transom. My goal was to leave as little gap filling as possible. No easy task, for sure. The red paint work still needs to be completed, just not into it right now. Bench lockers So far I've added the four main bench support pieces. I made sure that they where all equidistant from the forward edge of the lower aft platform and the tops where even with each other. I had to add some filler pieces to the outer two supports where they come in contact with the counter. You can see that in the above photo. There a two more support pieces that sit against the cabin planking which I will add later on. Mike
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Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Rustyj - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:32 Scale - POF Sloop
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I wanted to get the 1/64" thick quarterdeck cap rail installed and sanded before adding the inboard transom planking. Lessons learned from the past, I added the cap rail using medium CA, moving slowly along the length of the it's outer edge. Any excess spill can be easily removed before the CA sets with a damp Q-tip. I know that sounds crazy but it works quite well. With the outer edge of the cap rail completed, I switched the inside edge. With both cap rails completed I then I added the inner transom planking. Mike
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Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Rustyj - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:32 Scale - POF Sloop
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Transom If you take a Look at the photos in my last post you should be able to see where the cedar transom template had split in a few places. There are actually four cracks overall and were probably caused by my rough handling here and there. They have all been glued back together but remain problematic when prepping for the red paint work ahead. I decided to cover it up with a .010" boxwood veneer made in three parts. I'm very happy with the result and the transom is much stronger than before. I made the inboard transom planking in two parts from 1/32" boxwood. I went with thinner wood which leaves the whole piece flexible enough to conform to the curve of the transom without placing to much stress on the butt joint. I won't glue it in until after it is painted. I also added the margin strip for the quarter deck planking. Mike
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Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic:
The Hayling Hoy by jpalmer1970 - 1:48 scale - First POF build
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Glenn, You should very proud of the really nice work that you have done on Winchelsea. Looking forward to seeing your next project. Mike
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Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic:
HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Trussben - 1:48
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Nice, Ben. I like that you pinned the channels.
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Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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Quarterdeck beams I finished the quarterdeck beams using the ones from Chuck. Other than having to enlarge a few bulwark cutouts, it went smoothly. I scratched the transom beam which is made in two layers. It was adjusted in thickness in order to get a smooth run of planks. To do that I made the top 1/32" thick rather than 1/16". None of the beams are glued in except for the transom beam. The deck has a curved sweep. When I push down on the plank it sits flush with all the beams. Mike
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HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
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Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
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Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic:
Sloop Speedwell 1752 by baribeaujm (Jean-Marc) - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:32 Scale - POF Sloop
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Planking the inboard sides of the cabin took more time than expected. It's wasn't as simple as just cutting tapered planks and placing them onto the hull. The curvature of the hull and twisting of the planks changes the way these all fit together. This is especially true of the lower three strakes. Some additional shaping was necessary in order to get good butt joints. I think I will paint the inside of the window framing to even out the colors a bit. Otherwise, I think I'm good to go. Mike
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It's what I used on my breastrail columns. It won't remove all of the char, but it does lighten it a lot. https://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_2022_04/Winchelsea_0307.jpg.aa662ef15d9a1ee626312ecf2e6de5aa.jpg I added some thinned wood colored paint and W-O-P afterwards for a final cleanup. Mike
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The great cabin planking I started with the deck clamps. I made them identical by sandwiching two wide 3/64" strips together and then milling the notches. There is some tapering needed where the clamp meets the window which changes the length slightly. So, once the first one was installed I was able to measure off of that one in order to insure that the second one mirrored it. The bottom of the aft most notch is slightly higher than the top of the window. Mike
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Those look really nice. Have you ever tried using Gojo with a toothbrush?
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