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Stuntflyer

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About Stuntflyer

  • Birthday 07/23/1944

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Mount Vernon, NY

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  1.    Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic: The Hayling Hoy by jpalmer1970 - 1:48 scale - First POF build
  2.    glbarlow reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Winchelsea 1764 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48
  3. Stuntflyer
    Glenn, You should very proud of the really nice work that you have done on Winchelsea. Looking forward to seeing your next project. Mike
  4.    Alexander Bulimov reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
  5.    CiscoH reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
  6.    mtaylor reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
  7.    Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Trussben - 1:48
  8. Stuntflyer
    Nice, Ben. I like that you pinned the channels.
  9.    AnobiumPunctatum reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
  10.    KenW reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
  11.    dvm27 reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
  12.    rcweir reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
  13.    CaptMorgan reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
  14.    yvesvidal reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
  15.    Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
  16. Stuntflyer
    I finished the quarterdeck beams using the ones from Chuck. Other than having to enlarge a few bulwark cutouts, it went smoothly. I scratched the transom beam which is made in two layers. It was adjusted in thickness in order to get a smooth run of planks. To do that I made the top 1/32" thick rather than 1/16". None of the beams are glued in except for the transom beam. The deck has a curved sweep. When I push down on the plank it sits flush with all the beams. Mike
  17.    Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic: HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
  18.    Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Stuntflyer (Mike) - Ketch Rigged Sloop - POF
  19.    Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by baribeaujm (Jean-Marc) - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:32 Scale - POF Sloop
  20.    Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic: Sloop Speedwell 1752 by Capt Morgan (Steve) - Syren Ship Model Company - 1:32 Scale - POF Sloop
  21. Stuntflyer
    Planking the inboard sides of the cabin took more time than expected. It's wasn't as simple as just cutting tapered planks and placing them onto the hull. The curvature of the hull and twisting of the planks changes the way these all fit together. This is especially true of the lower three strakes. Some additional shaping was necessary in order to get good butt joints. I think I will paint the inside of the window framing to even out the colors a bit. Otherwise, I think I'm good to go. Mike
  22.    Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic: The Hayling Hoy by jpalmer1970 - 1:48 scale - First POF build
  23.    Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic: HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by Erik W - 1:48 scale
  24.    Stuntflyer reacted to a post in a topic: HMS Bellona 1760 by SJSoane - Scale 1:64 - English 74-gun - as designed
  25. Stuntflyer
    It's what I used on my breastrail columns. It won't remove all of the char, but it does lighten it a lot. https://modelshipworld.com/uploads/monthly_2022_04/Winchelsea_0307.jpg.aa662ef15d9a1ee626312ecf2e6de5aa.jpg I added some thinned wood colored paint and W-O-P afterwards for a final cleanup. Mike
  26. Stuntflyer
    The great cabin I started with the deck clamps. I made them identical by sandwiching two wide 3/64" strips together and then milling the notches. There is some tapering needed where the clamp meets the window which changes the length slightly. So, once the first one was installed I was able to measure off of that one in order to insure that the second one mirrored it. The bottom of the aft most notch is slightly higher than the top of the window. Mike
  27. Stuntflyer
    Those look really nice. Have you ever tried using Gojo with a toothbrush?
  28. Stuntflyer
    Thanks Erik!
  29. Stuntflyer
    Lower platforms (aft) I've been held up a bit in getting these completed due to some mohs surgery on my neck and face. Thankfully, the doctors got it all and it's healing quickly. I did these platforms the same way as the fore platforms. The angles of the beams are a bit trickier, especially the ones further aft. As usual I used spacers between the carlings which were removed after the carlings were glued in. All of this will be covered by the platforms, but if they showed I would definitely mortise them. Making the foremost aft platform proved to be an interesting project. This was done in sections moving from the center out. Tricky but lots of fun to make. I ended up using Chuck's laser cut mast coat rather than doing it from scratch. Just wasn't in the mood for the inevitable re-dos. Mike
  30. Stuntflyer
    Yup! That's what I did on the Winnie only with Rusty Red instead. Nice work!
  31. Stuntflyer
    Nice!
  32. Stuntflyer
    Riding bitts Making these turned out to be an interesting project. The basic shape for the pins and cross piece was taken from the plan drawings. The bevel on the ends of each piece was made by hand turning the disc sander set at 45°. Instead of using a file to shape the thin step beyond the bevel I simply added 1/64" caps made from strip wood. To shape the round offs for these pieces I wrapped some 180 grit sticky backed sandpaper around a pencil which was then turned in the drill press for shaping. Mike
  33. Stuntflyer started following Beavers Prize 1777 by Mike Y - 1:48 - POF - Hahn style
  34. Stuntflyer
    One gorgeous ship, Mark! Can you tell me what name of the poly is? Thanks, Mike
  35. Stuntflyer
    Hamilton, thank you for the compliment! I think the most important thing you can do in order to build a clean ship is to work slowly and methodically. Use the right tools and treat each part as a project in itself. Do-overs are part of the hobby and there is so much to learn when doing them. So, don't settle for mediocrity. Try to get neat and tight fits when adding parts to the ship. Keep the work surface and hands clean. Think about how you want to approach each project before you start and you will get a much better result. Mike
  36. Stuntflyer
    So, the riding bitts are on hold while I wait for the delivery of a 1/2" half round needle file. Meanwhile. . Breast hooks I decided to make each one these in one piece. Most of the work was done with the disc sander. Being able to set the angle for the outer edges of the hooks was a real time saver. I always try to use whatever helping hands I can when gluing parts in place. Here I used two short 7/32" strips as spacers between the deck and lower edge of the hook. Then I added a 5/8" balsa spacer which helped tremendously when positioning the middle hook. Some blue tape was added to show where the glue area will be. Mike

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