Stuntflyer

After applying seven coats of black onto the wales, possibly more still needed, I'm finally ready to move onto the next chapter. The first two belts of planking below the wales are completed. My tendency to complicate things got in the way of my progress. I first tried making the drop planks from 1/4" stock only to find out that it was not wide enough. In the end I just followed the instructions. I made them from a small piece of 1/16" sheet reduced to 3/64" using the thickness sander. That worked out just fine.
 

Before adding the second layer of wales I applied a coat of Wipe-on poly to the planking. The wales were gradually reduced in thickness about 1" from the stem until they were almost paper thin. Trying to paint the upper wales edges while on the ship is not something I would be comfortable doing. With that in mind I prepainted the edge that would be close to the planking and stem. When gluing the wales, I tried to use as little glue as possible as I wanted to avoid any glue seepage past the painted edge. There was some seepage, though very little, and I was able to remove it easily using a moistened Q-tip. Now I just need to finish painting the wales before starting on the remaining hull planking.
 

I spent several hours lining out the hull. I marked all the bulkheads aft of the first four with a tick mark for 3/16" strakes. The result was that most of the bulkheads have strakes that will be 3/16" for the next eight. The first four bulkheads at the bow will require tapering of each plank. I was hoping that all of the bulkheads aft of those four would not need any tapering. It turns out that the two last bulkheads will require some plank tapering. The arrows show that the lining out misses the tick mark by a 1/16". The bulkhead before it by less than 1/32" I'm really hoping that I didn't do something wrong. It seems odd that these two tick marks didn't line up with the tape where all the others aft of the first four bulkheads did. The result was almost identical for both sides.
 

 

 

I spent several hours lining out the hull. I marked all the bulkheads aft of the first four with a tick mark for 3/16" strakes. The result was that most of the bulkheads have strakes that will be 3/16" for the next eight. The first four bulkheads at the bow will require tapering of each plank. I was hoping that all of the bulkheads aft of those four would not need any tapering. It turns out that the two last bulkheads will require some plank tapering. The arrows show that the lining out misses the tick mark by a 1/16". The bulkhead before it by less than 1/32" I'm really hoping that I didn't do something wrong. It seems odd that these two tick marks didn't line up with the tape where all the others aft of the first four bulkheads did. The result was almost identical for both sides.
 

 

 

So that's how a "Fish Davit" works.  What a great detail to add to an already impressive build. 

I spent several hours lining out the hull. I marked all the bulkheads aft of the first four with a tick mark for 3/16" strakes. The result was that most of the bulkheads have strakes that will be 3/16" for the next eight. The first four bulkheads at the bow will require tapering of each plank. I was hoping that all of the bulkheads aft of those four would not need any tapering. It turns out that the two last bulkheads will require some plank tapering. The arrows show that the lining out misses the tick mark by a 1/16". The bulkhead before it by less than 1/32" I'm really hoping that I didn't do something wrong. It seems odd that these two tick marks didn't line up with the tape where all the others aft of the first four bulkheads did. The result was almost identical for both sides.
 

 

 

I spent several hours lining out the hull. I marked all the bulkheads aft of the first four with a tick mark for 3/16" strakes. The result was that most of the bulkheads have strakes that will be 3/16" for the next eight. The first four bulkheads at the bow will require tapering of each plank. I was hoping that all of the bulkheads aft of those four would not need any tapering. It turns out that the two last bulkheads will require some plank tapering. The arrows show that the lining out misses the tick mark by a 1/16". The bulkhead before it by less than 1/32" I'm really hoping that I didn't do something wrong. It seems odd that these two tick marks didn't line up with the tape where all the others aft of the first four bulkheads did. The result was almost identical for both sides.
 

 

 

I spent several hours lining out the hull. I marked all the bulkheads aft of the first four with a tick mark for 3/16" strakes. The result was that most of the bulkheads have strakes that will be 3/16" for the next eight. The first four bulkheads at the bow will require tapering of each plank. I was hoping that all of the bulkheads aft of those four would not need any tapering. It turns out that the two last bulkheads will require some plank tapering. The arrows show that the lining out misses the tick mark by a 1/16". The bulkhead before it by less than 1/32" I'm really hoping that I didn't do something wrong. It seems odd that these two tick marks didn't line up with the tape where all the others aft of the first four bulkheads did. The result was almost identical for both sides.
 

 

 

I spent several hours lining out the hull. I marked all the bulkheads aft of the first four with a tick mark for 3/16" strakes. The result was that most of the bulkheads have strakes that will be 3/16" for the next eight. The first four bulkheads at the bow will require tapering of each plank. I was hoping that all of the bulkheads aft of those four would not need any tapering. It turns out that the two last bulkheads will require some plank tapering. The arrows show that the lining out misses the tick mark by a 1/16". The bulkhead before it by less than 1/32" I'm really hoping that I didn't do something wrong. It seems odd that these two tick marks didn't line up with the tape where all the others aft of the first four bulkheads did. The result was almost identical for both sides.
 

 

 

Dont overthink it......it looks perfect.  I think the planking will go just fine.  Its about what I had too more or less.  That little bit wont matter and it could be so many factors.   Press on with the planking.  
 
Chuck

I spent several hours lining out the hull. I marked all the bulkheads aft of the first four with a tick mark for 3/16" strakes. The result was that most of the bulkheads have strakes that will be 3/16" for the next eight. The first four bulkheads at the bow will require tapering of each plank. I was hoping that all of the bulkheads aft of those four would not need any tapering. It turns out that the two last bulkheads will require some plank tapering. The arrows show that the lining out misses the tick mark by a 1/16". The bulkhead before it by less than 1/32" I'm really hoping that I didn't do something wrong. It seems odd that these two tick marks didn't line up with the tape where all the others aft of the first four bulkheads did. The result was almost identical for both sides.
 

 

 

Thanks guys...its nice to be back working on her.   The deck planking is the last major project on the model.  I have to start with making the coamings and gratings first.
 
Chuck

Wow, That looks fantastic!
 
Mike

Wow, That looks fantastic!
 
Mike

After planking the bulwarks I painted it red.  The finished bulwarks were 5/32" thick.  Maybe slightly thinner.  Then it was time to add the caprail.  It will be added in two pieces.  First the main rail which is 1/16" thick.  This was sanded flush both inboard and outboard.   Another strip will eventually be placed outboard as a fancy molding.  It is scraped like the others and is 1/6" x 1/32".  But it wasnt added yet.
 
First I had to create the hawse hole plates....which are essentially 1/32" thick pieces with the holes ut for the hawse holes and the bowsprit.  This sits flush with the top of the caprail so I had to add it first before I could add the fancy molding strip along the caprail outboard.  I didnt drill the hawse holes yet.  This will be done next.  But the hawse plates in position makes it easy to find their locations.  So that will be done in a day or two.
 
Lastly I added that fancy molding strip outboard for the cap rail which stands proud of the hull planking and finishes it off.   This is where I am to date and after drilling the hawse holes and hole for the bowsprit I will make preparations to start planking the deck.   Its getting there...
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I am contemplating painting the hawse plates and the stem above the ear molding black.....along with the fashion pieces at the stern.  But I have time to decide that.  So I will live with it as it is shown for a while before I commit to it.  Maybe after I drill and file the holes for the bowsprit and such...we shall see.
 
 
 
 

Bob - I ran into the same problem or at least I think so. By "plumb" I think you mean that the risers are not vertical. I was able to get the windlass close enough to the riser so that the pin was hardly noticeable. Not that your going to do that now, just found your dilemma interesting. Whether your solution is right or wrong, I wouldn't know. I just like the way you are able think outside the box.
 
Mike

Mike:
Yes, I was referring to the risers not being vertical. I usually like to plan ahead when I build a model, but this one caught me by surprise.  I couldn't help but think about how early in the construction of the hull, the problem was created.  Installing the windlass wasn't even on the radar screen!  Anyway, thanks for the kind words.
 
BobF

Bob - I ran into the same problem or at least I think so. By "plumb" I think you mean that the risers are not vertical. I was able to get the windlass close enough to the riser so that the pin was hardly noticeable. Not that your going to do that now, just found your dilemma interesting. Whether your solution is right or wrong, I wouldn't know. I just like the way you are able think outside the box.
 
Mike

With those last two planks installed, I could see where I over sanded a few of the bulkheads in the fairing process. I found five areas that needed a 1/64± shim. I ripped them from some laser cut soft ply I had lying around. Once glued, I sanded them to the proper curve.
 

With those last two planks installed, I could see where I over sanded a few of the bulkheads in the fairing process. I found five areas that needed a 1/64± shim. I ripped them from some laser cut soft ply I had lying around. Once glued, I sanded them to the proper curve.
 

With those last two planks installed, I could see where I over sanded a few of the bulkheads in the fairing process. I found five areas that needed a 1/64± shim. I ripped them from some laser cut soft ply I had lying around. Once glued, I sanded them to the proper curve.
 

With those last two planks installed, I could see where I over sanded a few of the bulkheads in the fairing process. I found five areas that needed a 1/64± shim. I ripped them from some laser cut soft ply I had lying around. Once glued, I sanded them to the proper curve.
 

With those last two planks installed, I could see where I over sanded a few of the bulkheads in the fairing process. I found five areas that needed a 1/64± shim. I ripped them from some laser cut soft ply I had lying around. Once glued, I sanded them to the proper curve.
 

With those last two planks installed, I could see where I over sanded a few of the bulkheads in the fairing process. I found five areas that needed a 1/64± shim. I ripped them from some laser cut soft ply I had lying around. Once glued, I sanded them to the proper curve.
 

With those last two planks installed, I could see where I over sanded a few of the bulkheads in the fairing process. I found five areas that needed a 1/64± shim. I ripped them from some laser cut soft ply I had lying around. Once glued, I sanded them to the proper curve.