Stuntflyer

Thanks guys, your kind words keep me going.
 
I have made and destroyed several seizings in an effort to understand and do what Chuck has explained to me. Here is the end result. . .
 

I formed the eye at the bottom of the block by making an overhand knot around a looped piece of rope and sliding the knot down over a pin and pulling it tight. I applied a few thinned coats of white glue to stiffen the eye and once it was dry I removed it from the pin. I tied the rope around the block with another knot and glued that. I wrapped the loose ends (forming a double wrap) of the rope around the boom and tied it off at the bottom of the boom with an another overhand knot. Looking at the photos of Chuck's build it's hard to tell if he tied the final knot on top of the boom which would make it a single wrap, I think. The double wrap is small and looks clean so I went with it.

looking good dude!  
 
I understand that "over-thinking" issue.  It's my worst enemy!

Wow I just went through your build log, exceptional work, I wouldn't believe it was your first build if you hadn't mentioned it.

Before I could start gluing the floor boards in place, I removed small amounts of paint where the glue would be applied.  A very handy tool for this purpose is a ground down Exacto chisel blade.  I use this tool for a lot of applications.  Remember to wear eye protection if you decide to make one of these.

Prior to gluing the first board in place, I drew a light line with a compass along each side of the board.  These two lines are where my simulated nail heads will be located.

I used black paint brush bristles to simulate the nails.  Although not perfectly round, they are so small it's hard to tell the difference.

The bristles are easily trimmed and sanded flush with the surface of the floor board, which produces a nice effect.
 
BobF

With the mast repaired and re-glued into the hull my next project will be the boom and gaff. I shaped and painted the two parts without any problem but had no idea how to do the seized block and rigging that went along. I posted the topic on "Masting, Rigging and Sails" found here . .http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/7277-stropping-and-seizing/#entry215601. Some great tips and how-to's came out of that post but I needed more information. I talked with Chuck who also gave me a number of great tips and how-to's as well as explaining that I was over thinking the process. His opinion was that "The scale is too small to do it the way it would be done on the actual ship". Needles to say I had to do a number of trial runs before I was satisfied with the results. I will pass on the tips as I post new photos.
 
The gaff rigging was made from one piece of rope. Measuring off the plans the length of rope is approx 48mm. I seized the loop around the gaff in the middle first. The second loop was then seized for the peak of the gaff. I moved that seizing to approx 48mm of the first seizing and pulled the loop tight to the peak of the gaff. When I first did the seizings I thought they looked too large so I removed 1 strand from the tan rope to make it thinner. The thickness went from .015 to .010 and to me it looks more realistic. As Chuck said "Its just very tricky and there are no silver bullets." BTW; the black color is very dark, not what you see in the photo.
 

As far as I am concerned Pops you are doing one heck of a job.  Congrat.
David B

Well, here's the pics I promised.  In real life things are not as "shiny" as they appear in these pictures.
 
Interior, everything done except tiller and and "arms" for the windlass......
 

 
Outer hull...............
 

 
Floyd - I just got notice from Model Expo that my 4 packages of 1/32" x 1/8" x 24" basswood have shipped.  Not sure what size is used for the Launch, but should be close and I still have about 25 12" strips from buying the Longboat twice.
 
I want to try boxwood but can't get it from Hobby Mill (because I live in Ohio as well) and I'm still not sure how to go about it at the Lumberyard (haven't figured out what the process is and how to make sure I'm ordering the right thing) but planning on getting "better" wood when I start my first larger ship.

Once you get the basics of seizing a strop around the block the rest is just variations on the same theme.  For the becket at the bottom of the block you can do two things.  1.  Make the strop longer and create another eye just like the one at the top or  2. make a small grommet (a circle of rope like the picture of the strop above) looped through the bottom of the strop.  The standing part of your tackle fall will the be attached to this grommet with a becket bend.
 
For the attachment to a boom or spar, again there were different ways to accomplish this depending on the particular location and type of block.  One way is to strop the block is with two long eyes that would just about meet around the boom.  The two eyes would then be lashed together to hold the block securely against the boom.  The other method is to strop the block with any eye and a tail.  The tail is passed around the boom through the eye and the seized to itself.
 
The idea behind seizing blocks to a spar in this way is that it allows the block to be removed without cutting the strop.  All you would have to do is cut a seizing.  Re-stropping blocks all the time would be a pain in the ****.  Blocks were normally fitted with their strops off the ship in the ship yards were the proper tension could be applied to the seizings.

Lextin - Your photos and explanation on seizing help a lot. I still need to see how to seize the block to the boom and create an eye on the bottom end of the strop.

Thanks Rich, much appreciated. Your Constitution looks awesome! Do you have photos here of the Aluminum long boat?

I'm trying to spruce up the aluminum long boat that came with my kit. I shall copy some of your stuff. 

Yes I know....that isnt your fault...Take a look at the plans,  It may be hard to tell on the paper plans at the actual scale but the bottoms were flattened during laser cutting.  There is a tight curve there and the tolerances in the ME laser cutting is not tight enough to keep the curve you noticed with the pinnace.  Those sharper points were just cut away.   It happens.  They were able to do so on the pinnace I suspect only because of the larger scale.  Even though a tight curve doesnt exist for the reasons mentioned,   it should be there.   When fairing the bulkheads it should probably be sanded into the frames as much as possible. To mimic the tight curve - transition of frames, use the shape shown on the plans body plan.  Depending on the consistency of their laser cutting it may be more pronounced and absent in some kits more than others.  But the kerf they get while laser cutting is just too large to keep this detail.
 
 
Here are some images of those last three frames as they SHOULD appear and the body plan from the plans enlarged.
 

David - your idea sounds really good but I wanted to try something I used to do on the airplanes to strengthen glued wing joints. When doing aerobatics with 90 degree pullouts at 60 mph, 10-15g stresses on the airplane are common.
 
1. First step was to glue the mast together with epoxy glue.
 

 
2. Use 1/2oz or 3/4oz fiberglass cloth, I chose 3/4 oz, to strengthen joint. 0.0015 thick.
 

 
3. Attach the cloth to the mast by spraying the cloth with spray adhesive and wrapping the cloth around the mast just once.
 

 
4. Here is a photo of the wrapped and glued cloth. At this point the joint is stronger but still not strong enough.
 

 
5. Apply 4 to 5 thin CA applications lightly sanded between coats. After the first application the mast is super strong without any flex at the joint. The additional applications will fill the weave of the cloth.
 

 
6. Finished mast repair
 

Completed main part of planking. Now the decorative top planks left, they would be a bit special and I will add them after a treenailing and final sanding of the hull.
 
The hull was just rough sanded, final smooth sanding would be done after treenailing. So please pardon that "hairy" look of the wood!
 

 

 

 
Currently experimenting with various treenail sizes. Probably will go forward with single treenail per plank, 0.8-0.9mm in diameter.
 
Half offtopic:
I was walking on one of my favourite islands in Stockholm - so called "Ship Island" (Skeppsholmen). There is a boat building club there:
 

 
They do teach how to build and maintain historical boats.. Some very fine examples are tarred and parked nearby:
 

 

 
One day, when the kids will grow up and I will have plenty of time, I will build such boat just for fun.. Very fine workmanship!

David - your idea sounds really good but I wanted to try something I used to do on the airplanes to strengthen glued wing joints. When doing aerobatics with 90 degree pullouts at 60 mph, 10-15g stresses on the airplane are common.
 
1. First step was to glue the mast together with epoxy glue.
 

 
2. Use 1/2oz or 3/4oz fiberglass cloth, I chose 3/4 oz, to strengthen joint. 0.0015 thick.
 

 
3. Attach the cloth to the mast by spraying the cloth with spray adhesive and wrapping the cloth around the mast just once.
 

 
4. Here is a photo of the wrapped and glued cloth. At this point the joint is stronger but still not strong enough.
 

 
5. Apply 4 to 5 thin CA applications lightly sanded between coats. After the first application the mast is super strong without any flex at the joint. The additional applications will fill the weave of the cloth.
 

 
6. Finished mast repair
 

David - your idea sounds really good but I wanted to try something I used to do on the airplanes to strengthen glued wing joints. When doing aerobatics with 90 degree pullouts at 60 mph, 10-15g stresses on the airplane are common.
 
1. First step was to glue the mast together with epoxy glue.
 

 
2. Use 1/2oz or 3/4oz fiberglass cloth, I chose 3/4 oz, to strengthen joint. 0.0015 thick.
 

 
3. Attach the cloth to the mast by spraying the cloth with spray adhesive and wrapping the cloth around the mast just once.
 

 
4. Here is a photo of the wrapped and glued cloth. At this point the joint is stronger but still not strong enough.
 

 
5. Apply 4 to 5 thin CA applications lightly sanded between coats. After the first application the mast is super strong without any flex at the joint. The additional applications will fill the weave of the cloth.
 

 
6. Finished mast repair
 

David - your idea sounds really good but I wanted to try something I used to do on the airplanes to strengthen glued wing joints. When doing aerobatics with 90 degree pullouts at 60 mph, 10-15g stresses on the airplane are common.
 
1. First step was to glue the mast together with epoxy glue.
 

 
2. Use 1/2oz or 3/4oz fiberglass cloth, I chose 3/4 oz, to strengthen joint. 0.0015 thick.
 

 
3. Attach the cloth to the mast by spraying the cloth with spray adhesive and wrapping the cloth around the mast just once.
 

 
4. Here is a photo of the wrapped and glued cloth. At this point the joint is stronger but still not strong enough.
 

 
5. Apply 4 to 5 thin CA applications lightly sanded between coats. After the first application the mast is super strong without any flex at the joint. The additional applications will fill the weave of the cloth.
 

 
6. Finished mast repair
 

David - your idea sounds really good but I wanted to try something I used to do on the airplanes to strengthen glued wing joints. When doing aerobatics with 90 degree pullouts at 60 mph, 10-15g stresses on the airplane are common.
 
1. First step was to glue the mast together with epoxy glue.
 

 
2. Use 1/2oz or 3/4oz fiberglass cloth, I chose 3/4 oz, to strengthen joint. 0.0015 thick.
 

 
3. Attach the cloth to the mast by spraying the cloth with spray adhesive and wrapping the cloth around the mast just once.
 

 
4. Here is a photo of the wrapped and glued cloth. At this point the joint is stronger but still not strong enough.
 

 
5. Apply 4 to 5 thin CA applications lightly sanded between coats. After the first application the mast is super strong without any flex at the joint. The additional applications will fill the weave of the cloth.
 

 
6. Finished mast repair
 

I finished the oarlocks, the horse located in front of the transom and red paint work today.
 
Looks crude but it works. Made from scrap 3/32" aluminum stock to even out the oarlocks using a file.
 

 
The oarlocks were painted with the same wood tone color that I used on the belaying pins in order to lighten the color of the wire. I then did all the red painting as necessary including the oarlocks. All of the red was then sprayed with the Testors clear dull coat. I sprayed the clear into an airbrush container and used the airbrush to spray. This gave me finer control over the area being sprayed. Even though you can't see it in the photo the red has no shine at all and looks very evenly toned now that it has been sprayed with the Testors Dullcoat.
 

Got a new toy today! Would be used for the next project
Frankly, I thought this micro band saw is smaller. It is a 8kg thing that occupies half of the table! But the quality is really good, so far I'm pretty happy. Let's see how it will manage a sawdust generation on a large scale.
 

One way of repairing is to add another piece. Cut of 1/4 of an inch off of each part making sure the cut is square.  Using a #78 or 79 drill make a hole in the center of each.  Make a dowel 1l2 an inch long just a litte wider than you need and drill that as well connect the parts together using a piece of wood that will fit the holes.  Once the glue has set feather and paint.  This is what I have done in the past.  Your accident has happened to many of over the years. By having large hands some more than most.
David B

This is what happens when your not careful.
 

Just did my first ever seizing even though it took 5 attempts to get it halfway right.
 

Just did my first ever seizing even though it took 5 attempts to get it halfway right.
 

Just did my first ever seizing even though it took 5 attempts to get it halfway right.