georgeband

I have been working on the rigging plan for HMS Whiting schooner and now know how many blocks I want of various sizes. The small ones are especially tricky, partly because there are so many of them. Block Need for model 2mm S 3 2.5mm S 48 2.5mm D 7 3mm S 26 3mm D 7 4mm S 10 4mm D 13 5mm S 1 I have already used 2mm walnut blocks from HiS for the gun tackles and they are at the lower limit of what is available. The next size up, 2.5mm from HiS, matches the cheaper '2mm single' blocks from Caldercraft and other suppliers. I am happy to use either of these because the imperfections are not visible at normal viewing distances. Whiting (in my rigging plan) also needs seven double blocks of this size. I see four options here. I could get the blocks from HiS (2.5mm double). Advantages are no assembly or trimming and a known shape and material - walnut. Disadvantage is cost including shipping. I could sand down some '2mm single' blocks from Caldercraft and glue them together in pairs to make double blocks. Advantages are the material and size which matches the single blocks. Disadvantage is some careful sanding and gluing. Shipyard provide laser cut card layers that the modeller laminates together. Advantages are the shape and finish, although this might not be visible for a 2.5mm block. If it is visible and better then I would want to replace the single blocks I have with card. Disadvantage is that assembly of the layers might be difficult. Seahorse offer 3D printed blocks in brown resin that according to them 'do not need painting'. Advantages are no assembly and little trimming. Disadvantages are an unknown material which could look different from wood blocks in which case I would have to replace the single blocks. For the many 3mm single and double blocks the Caldercraft parts are probably adequate in isolation though they might show up badly against the alternatives. This is certainly the case for 4mm and 5mm blocks where the HiS parts look like proper blocks while the Caldercraft ones look like roughly shaped pieces of walnut. Should I choose HiS walnut, Shipyard card, or Seahorse 3D printed for 3, 4 and 5mm blocks? Has anyone else travelled this way and can offer their experience? George

Allan, Here's a link to Phil's spreadsheet. Use it wisely. I, perhaps unwisely, have modified it for my own purposes and had to guess some sizes for ropes which Lees has not included. I forgot yesterday to include the drawing of the jibboom that I used for Whiting. It might be useful for a Ballahou builder so here it is. George

It has taken a while and I have completed the woodwork for the bowsprit, cap, jibboom and martingale. The drawings I prepared needed a few tweaks along the way when reality intervened and I have spent an age defining the rigging plan. According to my log this stage of the build took 18 hours though the drawings themselves took about twice that time. This is the finished article and I will not bore you with all the construction details. Here is the tip of the bowsprit from below to show the bees and bee blocks. My current task is to expand the rigging diagram to include the sizes of ropes. I have modified a spreadsheet table that Phil (Dr PR) originally set up using information from Lees. Lees' scaling rules give a wide range of sizes with some very small differences between them and I am resorting to rounding the figures for three reasons: I cannot believe that a vessel with limited storage space would keep sizes equivalent to model diameters of 0.20 0.21 0.23 0.24 0.25 0.26 0.27mm. (What happened to 0.22mm?) The visual difference between these sizes is too small to see Other tables such as zu Mondfeld give quite different answers. As with the spars and sails, the rope sizes are judgement calls. At this time I think I will probably have ropes that go up in steps of 0.1mm diameter, possibly with an extra for 0.25mm. What do others choose in this situation? George

George, I have scanned the relevant page from Marquardt and here is a crop which shows three alternatives for holding the bowsprit to the hull. The author gives precious little guidance about which was used when or where and I did not see anything which suggests that the choice of method depends on the length of the bowsprit. The other illustrations on the same page show variations for bobstays and shrouds. This is the key to the pictures (which I cannot make smaller here...) I hope that some of this helps. George

George, The book I usually refer to during my build of a schooner is Marquardt's 'The Global Schooner'. On page 169 he shows three alternatives for gammoning and the simplest is one that uses an (iron) ring in the stem, below the bowsprit. He also shows variations of shrouds and bobstays to support the tip of the bowsprit. Let me know if you want to see the relevant page and I will scan it for you. Best regards, George (another one)

It's my pleasure to help, Colin. Transcribing log books and other documents is an absorbing hobby and I vaguely remember when I first understood Do.Wr. It was when a log book had 'Do.Weather' for one day after a sequence of 'Do.Wr.' and the penny dropped for me. George

Martes, Here are a couple of pictures from USN archives. The first is St Thomas in the Virgin Isles in 1823 which shows a lot of ships and other vessels in harbour. At the left of the pack is what looks like a schooner with no yards on her masts; they might have been lowered to deck level but their absence in the drawing is certain. https://www.history.navy.mil/our-collections/photography/numerical-list-of-images/nhhc-series/nh-series/USN-901000/USN-901913.html This is a crop of the area of interest. Here is another, similar picture of Laguira (Venezuela) which unfortunately is not dated. This time there is a schooner just to the right of the centre of the pack which is described as a 'Dutch merchant schooner'. As with the picture above she has two tall masts and no apparent yards. https://www.history.navy.mil/our-collections/photography/numerical-list-of-images/nhhc-series/nh-series/USN-901000/USN-901914.html Neither of these pictures has positive confirmation of triangular sails though the absence of yards does suggest that they could be examples of Bermudan rig. Good hunting for more pictures! George

I have used teabag paper to make a sail for a 1/64 boat. The paper was reclaimed from a used teabag and therefore has sound environmental credentials, but the size is limited. The photo shows a tea-stained sail glued to a wire mast; the seams are drawn on with pencil. A quick search on the web for 'tea bag paper' shows several suppliers who offer sheets or rolls at low cost. My intention with Whiting is to use this paper for the sails, and even to try printing the seams on it. At my rate of building this is probably a year away... George

Phil, You are a brave man to try to follow the 'rules' for sails. They are much like those for masts and yards, and contemporary sources agree on some points but not on others. I am sure that the final decisions were made by the man holding the needle. One book that is worth looking through is Steel's 'Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship'. He concentrates mostly on the sails for a 20 gun vessel but does refer to others too, even boats. You can find a web copy at https://maritime.org/doc/steel/ and sails are from pages 83 to 151. There's a lot in there and it will probably confirm that your decisions are reasonable and realistic. George

Masts and yards Back to model making again and I have made a start on the masts and yards. Admiralty drawings are the original source of most information about the hulls of Royal Navy vessels but they often tell us little about the masts, yards and sails. Whiting is no exception and all that we can glean from the drawings for Haddock and Cuckoo are the diameters of the two masts and the bowsprit (6mm) and their positions and angles. For ships and brigs there are established rules for proportions with which we calculate the sizes of the spars from, typically, the length and breadth of the hull. The situation for schooners is not so simple and the rules given in different, near-contemporary books are not consistent and give different answers. For example, the length of the main mast from deck to top is given as 208, 194, 230 and 223 (mm at 1/64 scale) by Fincham, Rankine, Cock and Hedderwick in the mid-1800's. Two later books, Lees and Mondfeld, have answers of 152 and 161mm. Phil has done some outstanding work in Excel to combine all these results and I have drawn heavily on his work. Thank you Phil. An alternative approach is possible with the Admiralty drawing of the sail plan for HMS Adonis shown in ZAZ6196. Adonis was a Bermuda built schooner, very similar to the slightly smaller Fish class, built soon after the Fish schooners in 1806. It is very likely that the rules for masting of Adonis were the same as those for the Fish class. I took a pragmatic approach and changed the scale of the Adonis drawing so that the waterline length of the hull was reduced and made the same as Whiting. The lengths of the masts and yards taken from this reduced drawing could now be transferred to the Haddock drawing, making allowances for the different angles of the masts and bowsprit. (The length of the main mast with this method is 196mm and Rankine's formula happens to be closest for this dimension.) Adonis also has a different arrangement of jib sails in comparison to the descriptions written by Sub-Lieutenant John Roach in his log book and a few adjustments are needed to allow for this. The diameters of the spars apart from the two lower masts and the bowsprit are now found by comparing the answers from the various rules and using judgement. As one example, the maximum diameter of the spread yard had a range from 2.8 to 3.1mm and I chose 3.0mm. The diameter of the jib boom could be between 2.0 and 3.0mm and I chose 2.5mm. It might to possible to find a 'true' answer but this method gives parts which look right and the variation is within modelling tolerances. The masts, yards and sails for Whiting are in the drawing below. This is my outline plan. The spars now have their lengths and maximum diameters and can be drawn in detail for model making. Similarly, the basic outlines of the sails need to be refined. I am now working on the bowsprit and jib boom and it is taking a lot longer than I anticipated. The current status of the bowsprit is shown below. The puzzle that I am tackling now is where to put several eyes on on the bowsprit cap to attach eight ropes, as well as mounting a jack staff and a martingale (dolphin striker). The contemporary sources I have are arguing amongst themselves as usual. George

Here's a photo of a restored gig at Portsmouth (UK) which has angled footboards which can also be adjusted for length of leg. This footboard has three slots into which it can fit. George

A few photos to show a milestone in the build. (The pumps are standing loose at the moment so I can move them out of the way when rigging.) As I said above, the next big job is the masts and everything that goes on them. George

My experience with Caldercraft dowel and plywood has not been very positive. The keel and bulkhead parts were a very loose fit and measurements showed that the ply was 3mm thick and the slots were 3.2mm wide. It suggests that someone thought that 3mm and eighth inch looked the same and could be substituted. Similarly, the dowels were too big to go into the slots in the keel though that problem was easy to solve by sanding a couple of flats on the dowel. I hope that Caldercraft has improved since then. I agree with comments above that the dowels will acquire various tapers (and even octagonal sections) when they become spars and a small difference in the size of the original stock is minor. If you do want to reduce a diameter then grip the dowel with sandpaper and thick gloves and either spin the dowel with an electric drill or rub the sandpaper up and down along the dowel while slowly turning it with your other hand. I don't like the noise of a drill and use the manual method. For tapering I have used a small plane to get the basic shape right. George

Sweeps continued I made brackets from the etched brass 'chains' that came with the Ballahoo kit. I cut off the eye and filed all the edges smooth. The narrow section is then bent through 90° to form a 4mm long upright. A second right angle bend defines the base which is just over 4mm long internally. The remainder is a longer upright that will be glued to the bulwark. I glued a short length of thin, scrap, etched brass fret to the narrow section so that it projects a little below the base and is there to stop a lashing rope from riding up the side. The brackets are painted black. I glued the brackets between the gunports and their adjacent sweep ports with the top touching the underside of the gunwale. This looks reasonable and supports the oars in a balanced way. There are six sweeps on each side, three with their blades forward and three with the blade aft. I tried to arrange them in a cleverly designed pattern but gave up and let them fall into a natural arrangement when I tightened a thread around them to hold them to the brackets. I tied the ends of the thread with a reef knot and let the ends hang down. The hull is now mostly complete. The remaining additions will be Some figures to give a sense of scale. I have Captain Amati and his crew already. A spare spar or two, probably tied on top of the gunwales at the aft end of Whiting. The anchor rope on one side. Refitting the pumps that I took out while building the housing over the main ladderway. Making drivers for LED lights that connect to the optical fibres I installed to illuminate the interior. The masts and spars and sails and rigging are the big job that will wait until my next modelling season because I will need to change direction and concentrate hard. Lots of judgement calls needed for them. George

Research for a model often becomes historical research and a pleasure in its own right. This happened for me with the schooner HMS Whiting, built in Bermuda in 1805, which according to Wikipedia was captured twice in 1812 when her history comes to a halt. I had a lucky discovery with a commentary on a legal case that linked Whiting to her new identity as a privateer in the service of the nascent Republic of Cartagena. Her new name and captain's name opened other routes for research which takes her intriguing story to the beginning of 1814. The 1805 Club published my paper on this topic in its journal The Trafalgar Chronicle. I have attached a copy. George HMS Whiting as San Francisco de Paula.pdf

Thanks for the information, Ollie. At the moment I feel seduced by the idea of a rope walk and am parking the anchor rope for later. George

Anchors stowed I have tied the anchors to the gunwales on Whiting so they are safely stowed. The crown is lashed with a rope through a gunport, and the stock is tied to a belaying pin which was spare on my belaying plan. I might yet add an anchor rope to one of them, leading from the hold through a hawse hole. It all depends on finding or making a suitable rope and that can wait awhile. Sweeps Discussions on another post have convinced me that I need to show the sweeps stowed somewhere on Whiting. A sailor would stand and most probably push the sweep to use it. His shoulder height for pushing would be about 23mm (1.47m or 4' 10"). Measurements of the (crowded) deck of Whiting show that a sailor would be about 25mm from the bulwark, depending on which port he was working. The sweep ports are about 23mm above the waterline and 12mm above the deck. A scale drawing shows that a 19 foot oar is the right length and has the right proportions to be used on Whiting. A comprehensive account of oar construction is presented in The Art of Making Masts, Yard, Gaffs, Boom, Blocks, and Oars by David Steel, 1797, which can be found on https://www.thebigrow.com/?p=659#more-659 . The tables of dimensions given by Steel for a 19 foot oar are summarised in the drawing below. I made the sweeps by laminating strips of wood and then carving them to shape. It is a slow process and took me nine hours to complete 12 sweeps. I used maple strip because it is close grained, I like the colour and it was available in the right size at my local model shop. Most of the parts for the lamination are 2x0.5mm except for the blade which is 3x0.5mm. The central layer is 61mm long. Make a pencil mark 6mm from one end on both sides to indicate the handle. The outer layers are 77mm long. Glue one to the central layer so that the core protrudes by 6mm; the outer layer extends a lot further at the other end. Clamp the layers together and leave until the glue has grabbed. I use a slightly diluted wood glue. The blade is a 31mm length of 3x0.5mm wood. Glue it to the outer layer ensuring that it presses tight against the core layer. The second outer layer can also be glued on now and the whole assembly clamped. Check that the laminations are aligned from side to side otherwise the loom might have a trapezoid instead of a square section when you start sanding later. The carving begins when you are certain that the glue has cured. 1. Sand the body and loom to a square section, 1.6mm to a side. I rested the assembly on a small block of wood and ran a sanding stick over it. Check the size frequently until you get a feel for how quickly the wood is cut back. 2. Taper the outer layer over the blade so that it blends smoothly into the blade. Continue the taper into the body. The thickness at the beginning of the blade is 1.2mm. 3. Taper the body in the perpendicular plane so that it has a square section which reduces to 1.2mm at the blade. 4. Round the body but keep the loom with a square section. I tried sanding and scraping with a knife blade and both methods work. 5. Taper the edges of the blade and round off the sides so they merge with the body. 6. Cut the end of the blade 86mm from the join between the handle and the loom. There are variations on the shape of the end and I rounded the corners. 7. Cut back and sand the core to form a handle. It is slightly undersize for diameter but not enough to notice. When you are satisfied with the rounding of the handle cut it to a length of 4mm. I also bevelled the corners of the loom next to the handle. The sweeps were probably stored on iron brackets fixed to the outside faces of the bulwarks. Near the stern is most likely because the chains for the rigging take precedence elsewhere. My next task is to design and build some brackets. George

Anchors I have not found a definitive statement about the size of the anchors on Whiting. A general formula that has been repeated in contemporary books is 1cwt (one hundredweight or 112lb) for every 20 tons burthen. Other books give other weights and at least one (Hedderwick, 1830) complains that there are no standard formulae. Whiting was 70 tons so 3½cwt anchors are probably correct. The anchors supplied in the Ballahoo kit are 12cwt and somewhat large. The wooden stocks also look to be too long relative to the metal shank. I consigned mine to the spares box. Caldercraft sell a 3.5cwt kedge anchor which should be just right according to the general formula. I bought two and when I measured the shank I found that it is closer to a 4cwt anchor, but that is quite good enough. Wood stock The cross section of the assembled stocks should be 3.2mm square at the centre section and 1.6mm square at the ends. The halves need to be tapered on the outer face and that reveals a problem: the stocks are cut from walnut plywood and the taper exposes the cross-grain layers in the middle of the sandwich. I chose to live with this blemish. I marked the ends of the full size, central section (up to the inner iron bands) with a pencil line on the outer face, away from the slot for the shank. Simple carving removed most of the wood, reducing the thickness to 1mm at the ends, and then careful sanding gave a smooth surface. The joins between the ply layers are useful guides to show if you have removed consistent amounts of wood. The ply is weak at the slot for the shank and I broke one half-stock but repaired it with glue. Metal castings The castings are from a fairly soft alloy so it is easy to clean up the flash with a file. I rested the casting on a small block of wood while filing it, using the end grain of a piece of softwood to catches the filings as they come off. The bumps and neck near the top can be filed flat following the lines of the shank. I tested the fit against the stocks and stopped filing when the shank could enter without straining the wood. Use two stocks to check the size of the shank in the perpendicular direction. Clamp the shank between two stocks and there should be a small gap between them, small in this case is about the thickness of a piece of paper. If the gap is bigger then file back the shank a bit more. I put a small chamfer on the edges of the shank. The ends of the arms can be made more pointed and neater. Drill a 1mm hole for the anchor ring. The hole has about 0.5mm of metal to each side but more above it towards the end of the shank. The palms are tidied and fixed to the arms with superglue. I painted the finished metalwork with enamel as a primer then used a dirty black with washes of burnt sienna to simulate rust. A glimpse of bare metal on a corner where the paint gets chipped off looks good to me though it's easy overdo this. Ring I made the rings by winding the suppled 0.7mm brass wire around a round, metal mandrel which happened to be the handle of a file. A drill bit of about 3mm or ⅛ inch is about right. Snip out a circle and it should have an outer diameter of about 5mm. The rings had a puddening to protect them. I used Caldercraft 0.4mm black thread (it is labelled as 0.5mm) which is oversize for this application but a finer thread would simply look like a thicker, rough ring. I held the ring in a clamp, gripping the ends, and made three turns of thread around the wire, opposite the gap. Adjust the turns so they are snug against each other, hold the thread ends taut and apply a drop of superglue which wicks into the thread and sticks it to the wire. Do not let it wick into the stretched, straight thread because this will harden it and stop it from wrapping around the wire. About 12cm (5 inches) of thread is plenty for one ring. Adjust the position of the ring in the clamp and make several more turns of the thread around the wire then fix them with superglue. Continue like this until you reach the end of the wire. Leave about ½ mm of bare wire and trim off the remaining thread. Now repeat the exercise for the other half of the ring. Assembly Open up the rings so that the gap between the ends will fit across the shank. Make sure that the ring is flat and not twisted otherwise it will sit at an angle to the shank. Hold the ends of the ring over the drilled hole then squeeze them together with gentle pressure from pliers. The ring should be able to move. Check the fit of one half-stock and fix it to the shank with superglue. Now apply a drop of wood glue to each end of the half-stock and position the other half-stock. Clamp the ends together and leave the glue to set. Apply a small drop of superglue to the join between the shank and the second half-stock while you are waiting. The iron bands around the stock are cut from thin black card. You need about 10cm or 4 inches for each anchor, a little under 1mm wide. I marked the positions of the bands in pencil on the stocks. Apply a thin bead of PVA or wood glue to the card and, starting at the underside, wrap it around the stock. I overlapped the card on the bottom face with the ends at the corners of the stock. Rope The size of the rope is poorly defined and a rule in one book is contradicted by another. The AOTS book for HM Cutter Alert states that she had an 8" rope for her 3cwt kedge anchor. If this size anchor is the main one for a vessel then the rope could be thicker because it has to work in harder conditions than just kedging. The 8" circumference translates to a model diameter of 1mm. The ropes for anchors were generally cables (or cablets if they are small) which have a left hand lay unlike most ropes which are right handed. Most people do not notice the difference but model making pedants want it to be correct. This might be the time to build a rope walk, or stow the anchors without any rope tied to the ring. Can anyone recommend a supplier for 1mm diameter rope with a left hand twist? George

Thanks Frolick and Chapman for all this information. It provides lots of evidence that sweeps were carried and used and pushes me towards stowing some, somewhere, rather than missing them out. George

Phil, It all looks very plausible and the descriptions I have read about fishing show that there were many variations. I like the way that you attach a short length of rope-with-an-eye to the anchor cable with nippers in the same way as a messenger cable. The method that sits in my mind is to wind the rope-with-an-eye around the anchor cable and dispense with the nippers. The far end of the rope only needs a half hitch to stop it from unwinding. I cannot remember where I saw this explanation and it might have been about fixing eyes or hooks to the anchor cable to use as stoppers. I will have a look in some references later. The letter below is attached to ZAZ6118 (Greenwich drawing of Haddock) and is not on their website. The last line confirms that a tackle was used to weigh the anchor. No mention of how the tackle was attached to the anchor cable... George

Well said, Phil. Model building is similar to DIY projects in that simple jobs can sometimes take hours. The opposite, on the rare occasion that a job goes quicker than expected, is a joy to experience. George

Thanks all for your comments and suggestions. There is a log book entry for 18 June 1806 which states that on two occasions in a calm that day the crew were 'employed towing the schooner'. They apparently preferred to hoist out the boat and row that rather than use the sweeps on the schooner. As Druxey says, the sweeps might have been for extreme circumstances. (It is definitely 'towing' and not 'rowing'.) I wonder if the sweep ports were standard items in a contract and the various vessels had them, but the captains chose not to use them. A logical consequence would be that the sweeps (if provided) would be disposed of because they were yet more clutter on a busy deck. I think this is going to be a judgement call for my model since I do not have firm evidence either way regarding the presence or absence of sweeps. Chapman - thank you for the links. As an aside I have been looking for a clear picture of a 'mystico' and the one in your first link is excellent. You have solved a different problem for me! Wefalck - You provide valuable circumstantial evidence which goes into the eventual balance of probabilities decision about sweeps. George

Admiralty drawings of smaller vessels often have keyhole-shaped features on the bulwarks which I have assumed are ports for sweeps. The example below is from ZAZ6116, the schooner Haddock, and there are six on each side. Am I right in my assumption that these are sweep ports? The tables and drawings for sweeps in Steel https://www.thebigrow.com/?p=659#more-659 are quite extensive. For an 80 ton vessel he gives a total length of 25 feet of which 11 feet are inboard (handle plus loom). The deck on one of these schooners is very cluttered and it looks to me as if the inboard length should be a lot less otherwise the sweep cannot be used with a full stroke, especially when holding the handle. I could guess 20 feet as the maximum total length, which brings me to another question. Where are the sweeps stored when not in use? The only available space on my model of Whiting (same class as Haddock) is on the gunwales, leading forward from the transom. There are two convenient square ports where a rope can be passed through to lash the sweeps on top of or hanging from the gunwale, inboard or outboard. The geometry of the schooner would make it very difficult if at all possible to pass the sweeps into the hold so I cannot avoid the problem by claiming that they are 'below'. Any information would be most helpful. George

Oars and sails and stowing Oars A comprehensive account of oar construction is presented in The Art of Making Masts, Yard, Gaffs, Boom, Blocks, and Oars by David Steel, 1797, which can be found on https://www.thebigrow.com/?p=659#more-659 . I used this as the basis for my oars and combined the entries for single banked boats with those for sculled wherries and skiffs. No doubt there were local variations in the design and manufacture of oars and the results of this research should not be regarded as a universal truth. (dimensions in mm) I made the oars from three layers of polystyrene strip. The centre strip is 2.0x0.5mm (80thou x 20thou) and is 50mm long. The outer strips are 1.0x0.25mm (40thou x 10thou) and 31mm long. The task is largely one of sanding, filing and carving and I like to think of it as 'micro whittling'. I painted the oars to give a wood effect then cut away the ends of the blades, trimmed the blade tips and touched up the paint finish. Grapnel and boathooks These are etched brass items from Caldercraft. I added a coil of rope to the grapnel. Sail I wanted to show the mast, yard and sail dismounted and stored in the boat. A drawing of a sprit sail in https://boatbuildercentral.com/support-tutorials/Tutorials/sprit-rig.pdf and some thinking suggested that the sail would be wrapped around the mast and the sprit yard inserted in the last few turns. The sheet from the lower corner (clew) of the sail could be wound around the sail to hold it, in the same way as the gaskets are used on a square sail. The size of the sail is also my guess. Sprit sail The mast is from 0.5mm diameter brass, 45mm long and painted to look like wood. The sprit yard is from 0.3mm diameter brass, 41mm long and also painted to look like wood. Only the ends will show. I made the sail from thin paper that was previously a tea bag. Different manufacturers use different papers and some have a distinct perforation pattern on them but I found one (PG Tips) that had no discernible texture. The slight brown staining from brewing the tea gave it an aged look. I drew the shape of the sail and the seams in pencil. It can then be cut out leaving a wide margin (about 1cm) on the luff (front edge). Fold the front edge over a ruler then put in the mast with about 2mm protruding beyond the top of the sail at the throat. Hold the sail and mast together and apply small drops of superglue to the sail where it folds over the mast. The glue grabs the mast through the paper and only a few drops are needed. The excess margin can now be cut off with a sharp knife. I folded over the peak (top corner) so that the head (top edge) is parallel to the mast. I glued a bolt rope to the leech (rear edge) from the clew up to where the sail folds over. A second bolt rope is glued to the last 10mm of the foot and left to hang as a sheet from the clew. I allowed about 10cm to hang free. Use PVA glue and let it dry before the next step. The sail is now rolled up around the mast. Keep the turns quite tight and continue until about 10mm to 15mm is left. Now drop in the sprit yard and resume turning until the whole sail is rolled. Continue by winding the sheet around the sail so that about three turns bring you to the top of the mast. Add two more turns as half hitches to secure the end of the sheet. I cut the sheet so that about 5mm was left free. The whole assembly is now ready to mount in the boat. Fill the boat There is a lot to put into a small boat and everything has to be tied down so that a rogue wave cannot wash anything out. It’s fiddly work. I started with the oars and boathooks which I gathered into a bundle, some pointing forward and some aft, and placed it on the thwarts with the head of the bundle tight into the bow. I looped a thread around the bundle and the thwarts to tie them together, no glue here! I used simple reef knots and left the ends to dangle down towards the keel, though they needed a small drop of superglue to persuade them to hang in the right direction. I had made seven oars and mistakenly included all of them in the bundle. I have left it like this because I did not want to risk damaging the boat to take one out. The rudder and tiller fit on the thwarts to one side of the oars and port was my arbitrary choice. I tied them down and even put the rope through the mortice in the tiller. No one will notice but I know. The grapnel fits into the boat on the same side as the rudder and I did not tie it in, reasoning that a large piece of ironwork will stay put if a wave splashes over. The rope coil tucks into the space between the transom and the stern seats. The sail and its mast and yard fit neatly in the remaining space to starboard. It is tied to the thwarts in the same way as the other parts. The securing ropes for the boat can be tied now. I used the same Guterman thread as elsewhere on this model and tied a 15cm or 6” length to the starboard eye on the cradles with a bowline hitch. The line goes over the hull, through the port eye then back over the boat where a ‘truckers hitch’ is formed. (There are lots of descriptions on the internet.) The difficult step is to tie a small loop in the rope about midway between the two wash strakes. Once this is done the rope is threaded through the starboard eye, then through the loop and then back down towards the starboard eye. I gave it a couple of turns around the tensioned ropes below the wash strake then fixed it with two half hitches. The free end hangs down and I cut the length so that it ends just above the deck. The boat and cradle is now ready to fit to the deck. This has been an enjoyable project in its own right. George

I made the galley chimney for Whiting from the same type of foil, though it was black on my bottle. It is a pleasant material to work with and I have also used it for 1/1200 scale sails. I keep a small supply in case it ever gets replaced by plastic. An alternative that I am planning for the masts when I eventually get to them is to bend copper plates left over from the hull. I am most impressed by the quality of your build, Phil. Well done indeed. George