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Kevin

MSW Social Media Moderator
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Everything posted by Kevin

  1. hopefully not of topic to much, but i am possibly going down the semi kit route next build, is there a site that does timber kits - like lumberyard in the UK
  2. Before i start, im not ready to start something like this, but is there a British supplier of timer kits - like lumber yard, but after my current build is completed, i fancy something that is not total kit related
  3. your build is very nice, good work on the yards, im about 2500 hours from deciding what to do next
  4. The Mizzen pinrails are full ... this presents an issue which I will discuss later ... what was the issue with the mizzen pin rail?
  5. i reckon another 1000 hours to get to stepping the masts, going on the possibility of a 3500 hour build, plus then i will have to look at and fabricate every sail, including stuns, oh and 20 minutes to replace the storm damaged copper tiles If it was not for some very clear photos on Gils log, and the text in Keiths Juliers book (poor photo,s)i would still this morning be ranting about the chain-plates
  6. lol - the bowsprit just does not stick out far enough, the real thing must have been quite imposing, and an extreamly long tree good work
  7. hi grant she looks very nice, in the last few photo's well for me Easter came and went, had some time off, so managed to get about 20+ hours in on my build, may be a different kit but i am years behind you. lol i am doing the dead eye strops at present, the information that was lost in MSW 1.0 is beginning to haunt me as i come across errors that will have been discussed and remedy's found previously
  8. Derek , good morning The dead eye strop started as a pain, what i did was make a small hole using a 1mm drill bit where the pronges of the strops are fitted in the channel, then push the fixture into position with a pair of thin long nose pliers, worked a treat, to keep them in place a little dab of c/a glue, and covered with the outside strip
  9. Patrick thanks for the reply, that's the point i was try to make, the plans don't show the tabs and the instructions don't mention having to cut the tabs out, im sure Gil would have mentioned this in MSW 1.0 , but i guess we are having to learn all the same mistakes again, Anyway, i am at present sorting the problem, channels are removable from the hull, and the glued link on the bottom of the dead eye strop is easily unglued, - no damage done,
  10. i made a mistake, but is not to drastic to put right and LOL it has nothing to do with no glass in the 1/4 gallery The chain plates the instructions with the kit are to say poor is an understatement, it basicly shows you the advantage of being able to close the loop like a nappy pin what is fails to tell you is the process for making them up it was not until i studied Keith Julliers explanation and looking at Gils photo's that i noticed that the actual plates then self s have to be separated into two or three parts, good god nearly had Murphy visiting my new workshop i have posted a photo to try and explain, the flashing between the links has to be removed and then build them in a link form i can see that there maybe builds that have incorrectly completed this task, and understand why
  11. afternoon everyone Took the build out into daylight, channels, dead eyes and chain-plates continue
  12. total build time 737 hours Good evening everyone very little progress today, but did get time to understand the Jotika way of fitting Dead-eyes with their new strops, the Deadeye is pushed into the open ended strop and the two little side bars hook into the wood of the channels, it is such a tight fit that it would take quite an effort to pull then out when it come to rigging this leaves a closed loop to attach the chain plates to the assembly please excuse the pathetic drawing
  13. Good evening every one - and happy Easter, as it already Sunday in some places a lot of work done on the build - not much to show for it stbd aft chain channels have been dry fitted and all the decorative strips in-between then have been cut and fitted into place, then primed and painted black, i took some photos, but need to redo them again, not good enough to post, my new workshop has no natural light, so no detail showed up i am trying to best work out how to paint the stips as they pass through different colour bands
  14. dont invite me to go fly fishing with you, i get cold walking 10 feet from the front door to the garage,, lol i will go to ASDA to get my salmon, oh and by the way, no wain today or snow, just a wind that goes straight through you, or maybe its just me, my body is getting used to loosing weight as part of my new years resolution 19 kg so far
  15. Akula (Russian: Акула - Shark) was a submarine built for the Imperial Russian Navy. The boat was designed by Ivan Bubnov and was an amalgam of the previous Minoga and the Kasatka class submarine designs. The design was presented to the Marine technical committee in late 1905. Initially the boat was to use petrol engines but these were replaced by safer diesels. The boat's design was a single hull/ saddle tank type with a diving depth of 25 fathoms (45 m). Significant initial problems were experienced and the electric motor and propellers which needed to be replaced. Akula was the first Russian submarine able to cruise long distances. In 1912 Akula made the world's first multi-torpedo volley with five torpedoes. She subsequently served in the Baltic Fleet during World War I making 16 patrols and unsuccessfully attacked the German battleship SMS Beowulf. She struck a mine and sank near Ventspils in November 1915 on her 17th patrol. Displacement: 370 long tons (380 t) surfaced 475 tons (471 m³) submerged Length: 56 m Beam: 3.7 m (12 ft 2 in) Draft: 3.4 m (11 ft 2 in) Propulsion: 3 shaft Diesel electric 3 diesel engines 1,900 hp (1.4 MW) 1 electric motor 300 hp (220 kW) Speed: 10.6 knots (19.6 km/h) surfaced 4.6 knots (9 km/h) submerged Range: 1,900 nautical miles (3,500 km) surfaced, 38 nmi (70 km) submerged Complement: 34 Armament: 4 x 18-inch (457 mm) torpedo tubes (bow) and 4 drop collars
  16. Hello everyone i have some straight lines on the upper black/yellow ocrhe banding, every book i have put the lines above the upper gun ports in a slightly different position, so gave it my best shot the 1/4 galleries, and the fitting of the window was quite fiddly but is starting to look ok, the tamiya tape is in the position to line out the decorative strips and the rear most channels its good to be back in the workshop all the best
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