Kevin
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Everything posted by Kevin
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i am continuing doing the stbd side, the cat head is finished and fixed/pinned, and i managed to successfully make the strip underneath it, cutting the wale was my biggest heartache, as i found it hard to mark everything and get the angle right, but like everything else, it will get done, all a learning curve i used the brass profile, and bent with molegrips and a vice, then used fine wet and dry to rub out any marks, and yes it is fairly acute angle- 1,319 replies
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- caldercraft
- Victory
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i googgled for a photo, so i don't have a date, the photo stock didn't provide it https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=hms+victory+bow+photo&hl=en&rlz=1C1GGGE_en-gbGB473GB473&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=KE9iUdHOCInT0QXzsoGwBg&ved=0CDsQsAQ&biw=1680&bih=937
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- caldercraft
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HMS Victory by Sven - FINISHED - 1:600 scale
Kevin replied to Sven's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
Wow - she looks better than mine at 1/72 -
I need recommendations for my next kit build! - moved by moderator
Kevin replied to philo426's topic in Wood ship model kits
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1589-latest-full-profile-photograph-of-your-build/ have a look in here, that's one of the reasons,why i started it -
i reduced the thickness of the side rails of my ladder to fit within the coaming, as i remember i had a similar problem
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Not much to show for the few hours i have put in on the build this weekend, the bow timbers that fit into the head timbers are giving me a nightmare, with the decorative strip that flares in from under the cat-head, The rail that comes from under the cathead cuts unto the upper wale and stops where the the upper head timber strip comes into contact with the hull
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HMS Victory by EdT - FINISHED - 1:96 - POB
Kevin replied to EdT's topic in - Build logs for subjects built 1751 - 1800
WOW thank-you so much for reposting -
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1589-latest-full-profile-photograph-of-your-build/
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There's a simple answer Piet but it's not a simple matter. The simple answer? You can put a boat on a ship but you can't put a ship on a boat, or one man can make a boat but one man can't make a ship. It might take many men to make a boat but it'll always take a lot of men to make a ship. A friend once answered the same question like this: that's how i was told
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i was looking for a British company that provides a service like Lumber-yard, providing different lumber sets in different woods to complete semi scratch models, apparently there are not any.
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dam - lol -i have been going to slimming world since 4th jan this year, that picture - is just not good news
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what project are in the process of doing now?
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dont look much like a submarine - do i win?
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Wang lovely to see yr build back where it belongs on MSW 2.0
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Hi Vince Sorry, i have only just caught up with yr build, what a change since we last talked, she looks fantastic, even the armadillo in the background all the best kevin
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- sovereign of the seas
- mantua
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well done, the last photo's show her coming on in leaps and bounds, all the best
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I spent 90% of my Royal Navy Time (total 33 years) in submarines, i am watching with interest as you bring this idea into reality, well done
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During this weekend I installed the wales I built some days ago with my table saw. The major problem for this task was to define the right position of the first wale to be installed. This was not an easy task because De Agostini does not supply the kit with plans and the instructions do not show precisely the position of them. But I found a great help by looking at the SR plans from Mantua/Panart Models. Using these mixed sources of informations I was able to reasonably determine the proper position of the first wale to install on each side. The first wale, whoose position was defined by using this empiric method, was located above the gun ports of the intermediate deck. This wale was also easier to install because did not need to be curved at the bow. By the help of a masking tape I delimited the area where to fix the wale and I applied it with vynil glue, but helping the process by also using thin brass nails, with a very small head. To do so I bored in advance the wale before installation. Once the glue was dry, the day after, I leveled the headnails with a file, leaving the remaining piece of the nails in place. Hello my friend spelling mistake aside, i was referring to the fact that for an inexperienced builder, not knowing where to place these strakes exactly, can have a drastic affect on the appearance of the final result, even with the Jotika Caldercraft plans, which display the information quite well, they are still time consuming to get right,
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in this day and age you would think that a kit supplier would provide you with the information required to place the whales, nearly every measurment on my build seam to revolve around them, really looking good
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like many of the builds, its a personal decission, two of the same builds next to each other one painted and the other not, would have supporters of each
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you could pull the rope around a warm/hot soldering iron and get the same result
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you have made a very nice job of this build, was it yr intention from the start, to not paint it?
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745 hours redid the 3 after channels on the stbd side, unglued, separated and rebuilt the chain-plates, look right now, the 4 straight lines on the plans from under the channel are supports, no mention at all for them in the instrucions
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Dan Vadas showed an idea under MSW 1.0 where he adapted one with a rubber band and a small piece of wood to get the measurement under a deck. fpr making columns/pillars
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- syren
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http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Ddiy&field-keywords=micrometer i found dowels hard to get an exact measurement from so i invested in a very cheap micrometer, worth it's weight in gold, with a little bit of thought it can help in all sorts of ways with out hobby (Kevin's disclaimer - other sites and types are available)
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