harvey1847

Hi Daniel!
Yes, that step is a bit ambigous on the drawings. However, my montra is "perfection not required". I can easily add or subtract material as needed in that area without there being any visiable sign of a correction. The actual thin area of each of the deadwoods on my keel are sloppy but these areas will be covered by other parts so why take the time to make them perfect? They are merely areas to hold glue and can be adjusted without ill effect to the final product. The steps themselves are only marginally correct also, because final sanding needs to be done to smoothly transition between them and the cant frames. So, I wait for now to finish the deadwoods until I get the cant frames glued in place then I will make all of it flow nicely together. Trust me......  :-)
14 frames done so far - 0 through 7 and A through F. More to come.
 
Richard

good afternoon
 
For anyone following my log, there is no logic in the build order, i am just changing bits here and there to fill in some time,
 
i looked at the small hangers and noticed a vent was missing so broke out a 3mm drill, make a hole, rolled up some styrene sheeting and put into the hole, gued into place, not quite worked out the best way to make a mesh cover, might be some spare at the end
 

Finally on the other side of that rudder.  This whole assembly was a whole lot more than I ever thought it was going to be.  I will never look at a rudder the same way again!
 
I am pretty proud of the result - kids actually looked up from their IPODS when I went to show them so I will take that as a compliment.  At least the three year old was audibly impressed.  I can actually think of buttoning up that berth deck now (once I get the tiller arm rigged in, well, once I make the blocks so I can rig the tiller arm in....).
 
Oh well, Here is to the Victories of Today!
 

 
Mark

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 17 – Framing Continued
 
 
American Clipper Note:  Webb’s 1851 clipper, Challenge, was one of the most extreme of designs, with a dead rise of 20 degrees at midship, plus the usual narrow entry and run.  Her owners wanted no expense spared to make her the fastest and finest of merchant ships.  The legendary Robert Waterman was to be her captain and came on early to supervise construction.  Typical of most sea captains given the opportunity, he fitted her with too large a rig of spars and sails that, if anything, detracted from her performance until later replaced.  Expectations ran high for her first run to California, with $10,000 offered to Waterman to do it under 90 days.  It was a disappointing passage.  Waterman, a hard case in a profession of hard cases, had crew problems almost immediately.  Off Rio, the mate was stabbed and mutinous members of the crew flogged.  Later three men were blown off the mizzen topsail yard and a further four died of dysentery.  Upon reaching San Francisco in 108 days, the crew and press provoked sensational riots against Waterman.  He was later cleared of wrongdoing but Challenge went to a new commander.  Her troubles continued.
 
 
Framing is moving ahead at a faster clip than I anticipated.  I have moved up the learning curve and learned the little secrets that make the new pin-indexed assembly process work.  You will recall that the bolt/pin holes are indexed to identical positions on both frames in the CAD lofting process.  After cutting and trimming the parts, only about 30 minutes are required to complete the assembly of a frame pair.  This does not include beveling, milling the sidings or bolting – and I am not pushing the pace.
 
The next few pictures illustrate some frame assembly steps.  The first shows how the pins are used to place the frame timbers – pattern side down - on the assembly pattern.  Pin holes were drilled using the pattern marks on the underside of these pieces.
 

 
Accurate timber end trimming and vertical drill centering are key.  Although the outer frame profiles are sanded back to the pattern line, only the pins are used for alignment. 
 
The next picture shows a lower futtock being glued into place – again relying entirely on the pinhole locations.
 
 

 
After slipping the pins through the timber they are pushed into the holes in the lower pieces before gluing.  Dark glue is then applied as shown and the upper part pushed down and “nailed” into place with the pins and wood block buffers.
 
The next picture shows the amount of offset in the fore and aft timbers of the beveled pairs.  This offset increases going forward.
 

 
 I am not cleaning off excess glue because I do not want to damage the patterns with water.  There are patterns on both sides of the frame pair and they are needed for beveling.  The inboard side will be beveled back to the red line on top of the pair.  The glue will come off when beveling.
 
I described the beveling, siding and bolting process earlier.  The next few pictures show progress in erecting the frames.
 

 
In this picture the first 14 pairs have been installed.  This picture shows a characteristic feature of clipper hull shape.  The deadrise of the timbers is increasing going forward, narrowing the lower part of the hull.  The top timbers, however remain at almost full breadth to provide adequate floor space on the forecastle for crew activity.
 
 

 
Eventually the forward shape will flare out at the top over the very sharp entry below.  This is a very different hull shape from Naiad.
 
All these pictures show temporary pine spacing chocks being glued between the frames above the lower futtocks.  This provides strength and helps maintain alignment.  Later when all frames are in place, these will be replaced with temporary ribbands – probably at the height of the planksheer.  These will bring the toptimbers and rail stanchions into a final fair line and hold them in place until permanent rails are installed.
 
 

 
The last picture shows the 15th frame (O) being positioned for drilling of the pin/bolt hole into the keel.
 

 
Time to start cutting out more frame timbers.
 
 
Ed

Hello Boys and Girls!!
 
 
I have finally been able to set all the square frames from #19 to the one before the fore cant frames. In the last post they all were set but not with the spacers. It has taken me three days to put all that little pieces of deadwood on the keel and the top platform. It has been really fun. The ones on the upper wood are already glued. Different widths but all measuring 35mm. I glued them putting the PVA on the wood with a little brush, not to the little piece of timber. I removed immediately all the excess with a wet brush. The ones on the keel are glued with “scholar stick” that red one so well Known. I will remove all this chocks on the keel because…
 
Some poor pics.  (updated, no more skipe around!!)
 
 
 
 
 
 
As you can see I have not glued the gripe and the fore pieces. I have to bevel it. I will glue it at the end sanding at the same time the keel and the gripe.
 

 
 
There is a lot of gaps between the frames and the top board so I will glue them to the keel first. With rubber bands I will tight them to the platform and glue a timber on the top of the frame. Back to post #9.
 

 
Next step, the fore cant frames. It only took me two years and three months to get here…and here they are (updated)
 

 
 
Best wishes to all.
 
Daniel.
 

Hi everyone,
 
I then started on the pump cisterns. I had originally planned to run the pump tubes down into the hold, but after trying some mock-ups, I reminded myself that my stylized dockland framing system really does start everything above the gun deck for a reason. Without an orlop, a well, or anything else along with the tubes, I decided they would look silly all by themselves down in the hold. So I followed the lead of the HMS Princess Royal in the Legacy of a Model book, and built stub tube tops between the partners and the bottom of the cisterns.
 
I pondered how to build the coopered covers on the pumps; at 3/16" scale, a ¾" thick shell was too thin to get good coopered joints. So I cheated a little. I turned a wood blank, and then layered the ¾" pieces (plus a little for trimming) on the blank. I then re-chucked this, and turned the assembly down to final size, leaving a clean and accurately sized hood. I cut off the lower half of the blank, leaving the half round hood. They aren't hollow, but I didn't build the pump inside anyway...
 
Best wishes,
 
Mark

Martin, on the left is a workbench I only use for building full size parts like jigs and furniture.
 
I had some alignment issues with the carlings so I decided to cut all the mortices for the remaining beams and marked them all using a batten. Important lesson to remember for the upper deck.... Pillars are installed temporarily and still need to be chamfered. 
 

 
Remco

Here are some pics of the yards being built. I made the cradle to help hold them still as I worked on them. Also, here are some details of the tops and crosstrees.
 
My methods are the standard ones. The masts were shaped from square blanks of lemonwood taken from bow staves. Yards too. It was a lot of shaping. Timely, but really not too difficult. It gave me a lot of control.
 
The deadeyes and bullseyes were made using standard jig techniques.
 
There is a lot of metal work involved. There will be a lot of chain rigging too. I've measured a need for about 9 feet. I've made some chain, but decided to use some 40 link per inch stuff I've found. Making this much was just too much for me. So far this is the only thing I've bought ready made except for thread.
 
I'm making the 11 1/2 inch and 8 inch standing rigging size line right now on my rope walk. This is for the lower shrouds and stays. I'll need a lot of the 11 1/2 as the Lightning had this huge stuff all they up to her topgallant back and forstays! It may look a bit heavy, but McKay really layed on the strong stuff for some of his ships. Especially the ones for the Australian emigrant ships like Lightning.
 
By the way, I have a list all of the laws layed down by the captain for the passengers. PHEW !!! I'm working on a book too.
 
I'm still trying to load that photo of her real figurehead that's rotting in a garage down under....
 
Bruce
 
 

Thanks for these comments.
 
Bruce, I am using the Crothers plans for Young America only as a reference for the detailing that will be done later.  The plans do not show much structural detail.  My primary source is the original table of offsets, plus structural information from Crothers book, The American Clipper Ship, and a number of other sources.  I will create a full set of plans with patterns based on that.  Crothers' Sea Gull Plans are excellent, but they are of limited use for the structural model I am building.
 
Daniel, the diagrams are quite interesting.  Thank you for posting.  Are they from a specific country?  I like the detail showing the wedge set into the bottom of the blunt.  I believe practices varied and evolved - with a general trend toward iron, copper and mixt metal - especially for structural uses.  For the American clipper period, my understanding is that after thorough drying, treenails were formed as straight cylinders from the upper branches of locust trees - noted for hardness and straightness of grain.  These were sold commercially by specialist suppliers.  Used mainly for internal and external planking, they were driven into slightly undersized holes.  The exposed end (or ends) were then opened with a chisel tool and wedges driven in.   I do believe - as shown in your diagram - that for planking they were usually driven through after both inside and outside planks were installed.  Since this planking was not installed together, a certain numbers of blunts - driven 2/3 into the frames - were used to hold the planking until the final treenails could be driven through.
 
Attached is an photo showing planking treenails waiting to be driven in - probably late 19th C - from book Wooden Shipbuilding by Charles Desmond.
 
Rob, a variety of fastener types were used - iron copper and wood - some as blunts driven in partially, some rivetted on the ends, with or without washers.  Some were flush, some with rounded heads, some counterbored and plugged.  You name it.  Wood treenails were used right up into the 20th century on wood ships.  I believe you will find specifics on types on various ships in the tables in Crothers book.
 
Thanks, again, guys.  I appreciate the input.
 
Ed

Today was nice and sunny and planned to mow the front lawn after it had dried.  This gave me some time to do some more tedious work on the sub.  I decided to make the pressure door for the forward torpedo loading tube and hopefully install the door on it.
 
I cut the 10 mm brass tube to size and cleaned it.  Then cut 3 each 3 mm pieces of 1.5 mm brass tubing for the hinge of the pressure door.
In order to make the door concave/convex I made a forming die from an oak dowel.  Made one end hollow and an other piece rounded to fit inside the hollowed out one.  Then put a .3 mm thick piece of brass sheet stock in between and put this all in my bench vice and squeezed the living daylights out of it.  It worked great!   
 
Next I had to cut some .15 brass shim stock into 2.5 mm wide strips for the door hinge pieces. They were soldered to the outside of the door leaving a gap for the center hinge piece on the tube.  I clamped these with a small wooden clothes pin.  Then bend the ends 90 degrees backwards and soldered the small pieces of tubing to it.  I used a steel office clamp as a heat sink so as not to desolder the strips from the door.  A little fine-tuning with a small drill bit and the door swings open and closed.
 
I'm now ready to clean and paint this little bugger and cement it in place.  But first I have to glue a few small strips of wood to the underside of the deck for the hinges of the hinged access doors.   Hmmmm, maybe I'll make them also from brass tubing and shim stock.  I'll decrease the wall thickness of the brass tube a little as I did for the torpedo tube then it's not too bulky.
Still a lot of work ahead with all this small work but this way it'll look better and realistic.  It's now just a matter how small can I make these things without tearing my hair out, the little I still have 
 
Well, that's about all I did today and not to forget, mowing the front lawn !!
 

These are oak dowels, the tall one is concave and the short one is convex.  It's difficult to see here.
 

Here I and posing the process, when I'm actually doing the pressing it'll be better positioned. 
 

After a lot of filing to make a good fit I am posing the finished door.  I did use a small hammer to form finish the edges.   It's now ready to receive the hinges.
 

The loading tube is cut to size and the completed pressure door is placed on the deck.
 

I used a small wooden clothes pin to hold the small hinge tube in place.
 

The door hinge tubes are soldered to the brass shim stock.  The steel office clamp acts as a heat sink.
 

The completed assembly posing with the door closed.
 

The completed assembly posing with the door open.
 

Here I just stuck the completed loading tube into it's location to check for fit. I had to remove it for the additional work to the opening.  Yes, it needs to be cleaned and all the dust removed and then painted.  i had to some more grinding to position the tube better.
 
Cheers,

Today I started with the bow torpedo loading tube.  I cut a hole in the forward deck for the hinged hatches and ground a space out for the brass tube and added some more wood behind it for better support.  I also pre-cut the holes for the escape and entry tubes in the fore deck.
 
Then I proceeded to the aft deck and cut the rectangular hole for the stern torpedo loading tube but have not made any further provisions to secure the tube.  The stern escape / entry tube is located and marked on the deck but have not cut the hole for it, yet.  The edges are just inside the side deck plates and that concerns me a little, however, according to the drawings and photos that's about right.  
 
As noted on one of my previous posts, I have to rework the deck area above the side launch torpedoes.  This brings a lot more work but it's according to the deck layout drawing and I should have paid more attention to it before doing it my way (sorry Frank Sinatra   )  Oh, I really don't mind it though, I learned a few things in the meantime.  With all those hinged hatches between the "tracks" I'll most likely only make the ones above the side launch torpedo launcher.  The rest will be indicated as I'll do with some other hatches on the deck.
 
Okay, that's about it for today and I took a few shots of what was done.
 

This is a shot from the future conning tower of the forward deck area.  I have annotated the particular items of interest.  I have just stuck a piece of 10 mm brass tube in it's semi prepped location and it still needs to be cut to the right size. Then it needs the hinges soldered to it and a lid must be made also with hinges.  I also need to add small planks of wood for the hatch hinges.  There are two pairs and these will fold outboard. 
 

This is another view of the forward deck with annotations.  I have just laid the "rails" loosely on the deck to where they are to go.
 

This is where we are today on the rear deck.  I have to make a block to support the brass loading tube which will then be glued to the top of the pressure hull.  Here too, I'll have to glue in a few strips of wood under the deck for the hatch hinges.
 

I just drew the outline of the future side mounted anchor.  I'll make that one when I receive the soft copper Paul so graciously is sending to me.  This'll be a fun little model.
 

Couldn't resist making a close-up of the stern area to show how nice it turned out. In looking at the pic I see that I still need to clean up a few things, still a few "fuzzies."
 
Cheers, 

Hello Ed!
 
Wiht that "cadency" of frames I am sure that you will end the hull in two moths or so...not two years!
 
 
Look what I have found about the treenail question. I have tried to translate it the best I could. The sketches talk by themselves but the way it was done in the XVIII century amazed me. It is the Rooth system, around 1752.
 

 
(1) A drill is made that pass through the external planking the frame and the interior planks; A treenail of the same diameter is then selected (for a “B” treenail type in this case*) except the head of it which is a few inches bigger; the length of the treenail should be one foot more than the hole drilled. The treenail is spread with lard and is introduce (2) with a hammer. When we reach to the head where the diameter is slightly more, we need to hammer strongly, that’s why the head is reinforced with spunyarn rope, this avoids the treenail to split. When it has been introduced to the maximum and it extends on the inner side, both heads are trimmed to the face of the planks (3) then a treenail wedge or spile is force in both sides of the treenail (4-5-6) so no free movement is allowed.
 
The sketches of the “blind treenails” talk by themselves so I am not going to translate the text of the same period.
 
 

 
Beautyful work and posts like always.
 
 
Daniel.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 16 – Framing Continued
 
                                                                                                                  
American Clipper Note: In June 1856, the clipper Rapid, Captain Winsor, left New York for San Francisco, followed four days later by Intrepid and Neptune’s Car.  Some weeks later Rapid was battling hurricane force winter storms off Cape Horn.  Making no progress for weeks, with most of the sails gone, ten of the crew dead, ten more disabled below deck and only four frozen souls to work the ship, Winsor turned back for Rio.  He soon came in sight of one of the other ships, hailed her and got no response.  It was probably Neptune’s Car.  Facing the same conditions, her Captain Patten was confined below, having been struck deaf and blind.  With the mate in irons for insubordination, Patten’s 19-year old wife, a capable navigator, took charge of the ship and brought Rapid into San Francisco, 134 days out, 11 days before Intrepid.  Where’s Hollywood?
 
Back to Young America.  Progress continues on the frame fabrication and installation.  The first picture shows the first 7 frames, 0 to F, installed.
 
 

 
The next picture shows parts for the next few frame pairs cut out, trimmed and waiting for assembly.
 

 
After cutting out on the scroll saw, each part is trimmed using the disk sander.  First the ends are sanded back square to the pattern cut line.  The outer profile is then sanded square up to the outer line as shown below.  In the case of the forward frames this is the aft – red – line. 
 

 
From printing a frame pattern to all pieces cut out and trimmed takes about 30 minutes.  Average time to loft the two patterns is also about 30 minutes.  So up to the point in the second photo, about one hour is invested in each frame pair.  I have not timed the remaining steps yet.
 
The next picture shows the amount of bevel starting to appear in the frames forward of midship.
 

 
After assembly each pair is beveled to the forward outer profile using the disk sander – but staying away from the previously trimmed  profile on the aft face.  The resulting unsanded hump is then removed by hand as shown below.
 

 
A flat rasp is being used for this followed by a 120 grit sanding block if needed.  The bevel is trimmed back to – but not into - the line on the pattern.  Final sanding of the hull will remove the last bit, any glue line residue and will smooth the frames.   At this stage - before assembly - most of the external beveling on each pair is complete.  The inside has been left somewhat fuller, so more internal sanding will be needed.  After this step the patterns are removed from both sides, the sidings of timbers machined back and the bolts added.  The pair is the erected.
 
The next picture shows temporary pine chocks being installed between erected frames.  These chocks will align the frames and strengthen the assembly, which is rather weak with only the small glued area and pin on the keel.
 

 
The next picture shows the assembly during the addition of these chocks.
 

 
As each chock is added, the joint line is plumbed to the line on the base drawing and the breadth is matched to the maximum breadth line.
 
Progress at this point:  Pairs 0 to F set, 0 to J fabricated, 2 to U lofted.  Keeping these progress measures helps keep me focused on what is a lot of repetitive work.
 
 
Ed

Hello Shipmates.
 
Another update.
 
Have removed the Ship from the Build Jig temporary to Fit the Rear shot locker.
 
Been working on the Hold racks and fitting the Shot lockers to the pump house.
 
 
 
First a few pics of the Racks.
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

 
 
 
The covers are now complete.
 

 
 
 
The Hold.
 

 
 
 
Rear view of the Hold.
 

 
 
 
And the other side.
 


 
Will post another update over the weekend when Pump house with Shot lockers are fitted.
 
Regards Antony.
 

Hello everyone, again.
 
Well, today was going to be THE day of painting the sub with an enamel primer.  I used this primer before and it dries nice and hard.
I took it outside next to the garage and put it on one of the Admiral's large plastic garden barrels as my paint station.
Then I used my shop vac to blow all the dust off it after the sanding I gave it in the last couple of days.  Then wiped her down with a damp rag with solvent.  I used a primer in a "rattle" can from the local hardware store, like Krylon but dries harder.  I put two coats on it and let it sit in the warm sun for a few hours.
 
In the meantime I put the mushroom anchor back in the lathe and cut it down thinner and hollowed it out to make it into a dish shape.  Then cemented the anchor post into it with 5 minute epoxy and also put an eye bolt inside the hull to hold the anchor "cable", which is just a piece of heavy black rigging line.
I drilled a hole in the center false vertical keel for the anchor post and made and installed the eye bolt into one of the frames.  Then fastened the anchor cable to the eye bolt and the anchor and stuffed the cable inside the hull.  The anchor fits nice a snug in it's little "house" and all we see is the rounded bottom of it, quite neat to look at.  The Admiral asked where the anchor was so I told her to bend down and look under the bow, ooooh, she said, I see it's bold head.  Weird Dutch humor     
 
She really liked the looks of the boot now that it's painted white.
 
I mentioned in a previous post that with the primer on it I should be able to see all the blemishes and sanded through spots, etc. 
Well now, this afternoon I took the boot outside and sat in my lawn chair in the shade with some 400 sandpaper and scrutinized the hull for any of that funny stuff and was pleasantly surprised how few little thingies I found that needed some attention.  I did sand it down very lightly to remove some of the grittiness from the paint and it's looking really good, I am a happy camper         
 
So, I guess we can now put some color on it. I have a gallon of semi-gloss enamel called "Roasted Pepper" that we used for our front door.  I love the color because it's not a fiery red but more a subdued red.  It's the same paint I used for the VOC ship gunport lids.  It'll be red up to the waterline and above it a forest like green, which I have not picked out yet.
 
Well, here are two shots of the boat just painted with primer.
 

 

  Cheers.
   

To get the hull to have that aged appearance when the boat is complete, I start by applying 5 or 6 coats of an Alcohol India Ink wash until the surface is built up and chalky. This will assure that the paint does not stick in spot on the next steps.

 
Then I dry brush light grey in alternating directions on the hull in very light and dry strokes. Also I dab a slightly wetter brush to build up the paint along the uneven surface of the plank joints.


Then using some scotch tape I rub it onto the mostly dry surface and pull back to remove some of the paint to provide a worn and badly in need of repair, rotting hull!
 

The effect is over done somewhat, but the end result when looking from a distance is a ship that has seen service for 30 years of it's 15 year planned life!

Aft hull planking with 1/16" X 1/16" basswood.

 
Love these little clothes pins I got from the dollar shop!

 
Messy planking to give the aged and unkept look of the fullsize after 26 years of service and abuse. (please don't be appauled by my sloppy work here!!)

 
Carving down the planking before sanding.

 
Planking is finished!!

It has been a few weeks since I made any progress on Atalanta.  Last week was the NRG conference in Charleston.  I met several MSW members when I was there.  It is great to put a face to a name.  
 
I have installed the fifth beam-bitt pin assembly.  This is a complicated area to construct not only because you are trying to fit a piece which intersects three decks (fore platform, lower deck and upper deck) but also because the sequence of installation is critical for a correct fit.  The bitt pin is tapered on three sides as it descends into the hull.  The aft side is perpendicular to the water line.  Because I planked the port side, the port pin had to be reshaped below the lower deck to allow installation.  This will not be seen because of the bulkheads surrounding it.  Because the sequence of installation is so important, I will show it step-by-step.  Please remember that the pictures show a dry-fit assembly.
 
The first step was to build the beam-hanging knee assembly.  The carlings and ledges were then glued up and removed from the model as its own assembly.  The lodging knees were made and the mortises for the ledges were cut.  These were also removed from the model.  Once all the pieces had been fabricated, it was time for installation.  The first step was to install the port pin and the starboard lodging knee.  I also had to remove a section of the fore-and-aft bulkhead abaft the 5th beam to allow the beam assembly to pivot into position.  This was replaced after everything was glued in place.  You can see the notches in the bitt pin for the crossbar to be added later.  The bitt was pinned to the lower and upper deck beams.  The bolts for the lower deck beam are decorative.  The upper ones are functional. 
 

 

 

 
The beam-hanging knee assembly was then installed.  An additional piece of bulkhead planking was cut to fit underneath the beam so there is no gap between the wall and the lower edge of the beam.
 

 

 
The starboard pinn was installed next.  In the pictures the pinn is slightly off plumb.  This was corrected when everything was glued up.  The port lodging knee was then installed.
 

 

 
Finally, the carlings and ledges assembly was put in place.  Finish will be applied to the pin (except at the notch for the crosspiece) but not to the upper part of the deck structure.  The bitt standards are long knees which extend forward from the pinn to the third beam.  David states that these structures should be notched for the beams they intersect but does not say anything about the ledges and carlings that also intersect the standards.  Any help would be appreciated as I have not yet decided how much of the upper deck I will be planking.
 

 

Hello all, I reduced the size to a lot less pixels and this confuser likes it, so here they are.  Hope yuns can still see them without a magnifier. 
 
 
 

This is the mushroom anchor still unfinished.
 

Here I placed the anchor in the receptacle.  I plan to attach a "cable" to it so it can appear to be ready to haul back up when I leave it outside the boat when on display.
 

This is another shot of the anchor to give you some perspective.
 
Cheers,

Hello Boys and Girls!!
 
 
I have finally been able to set all the square frames from #19 to the one before the fore cant frames. In the last post they all were set but not with the spacers. It has taken me three days to put all that little pieces of deadwood on the keel and the top platform. It has been really fun. The ones on the upper wood are already glued. Different widths but all measuring 35mm. I glued them putting the PVA on the wood with a little brush, not to the little piece of timber. I removed immediately all the excess with a wet brush. The ones on the keel are glued with “scholar stick” that red one so well Known. I will remove all this chocks on the keel because…
 
Some poor pics.  (updated, no more skipe around!!)
 
 
 
 
 
 
As you can see I have not glued the gripe and the fore pieces. I have to bevel it. I will glue it at the end sanding at the same time the keel and the gripe.
 

 
 
There is a lot of gaps between the frames and the top board so I will glue them to the keel first. With rubber bands I will tight them to the platform and glue a timber on the top of the frame. Back to post #9.
 

 
Next step, the fore cant frames. It only took me two years and three months to get here…and here they are (updated)
 

 
 
Best wishes to all.
 
Daniel.
 

We have to see the keel. Photos and evidence that it has been built. Basically the keel is the first thing that is built and you do not need any of the other plans until you have built the keel.
 
This way we block all those (and there are many) who enthusiastically sign up with no intention of ever making the Triton and just want the plans.
 
As an example look at other cross sections like Rafines
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1321-triton-cross-section-148-by-rafine/

Made progress on frames this weekend. Frames are just placed in their reletive positions - not glued in place yet.
Enjoying the work very much.
 
Richard
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 15 – Setting Midship Frame Pair
 
 
American Clipper Note: In March 1849, the telegraph watcher at Sandy Hook, NJ, observed a large ship approaching from the southeast.  It could only be a tea clipper, but the first of these for that year was not due to arrive for at least two weeks.  It turned out to be Sea Witch, an early extreme clipper designed by John W. Griffiths, under Captain Robert Waterman, just 75 days out from Hong Kong, a west bound journey to New York of 14,500 miles - establishing the first permanent sailing record – never to be beaten by a sailing ship.  Her average speed: 193 miles/day.  Later in the year, Sea Witch set the standing record from Canton to New York, a slightly longer passage, in 77 days.  Hong Kong – New York – Canton – New York in one year – unheard of.
 
Back to work.  The first picture shows the setup for erecting the square frames.
 

 
In this picture the midship frame is held in position for attachment to the keel.  The two clamped squares hold the frame at the sides and will maintain pressure on the glue joint at the keel.
 
The squares are clamped at the breadth to the frame with the corners set at the joint line as shown below.
 

 
The joint line of the pair is aligned with the edge of the square – held by clamps.  At this stage the mark at the center of the cross-spale is centered using the Plexiglas rectangle.  This gauge was cut square and notched to clear the keel.
 

 
With the clamps tightened, the bolt hole through the floor into the keel is drilled. A brass “bolt” is then tapped in slightly.  The frame is raised slightly to apply glue, then lowered and the position rechecked.  The “bolt” is then driven in as shown below.
 

 
The next picture shows the installed frame later with the clamps cleared away.
 

 
This is a good time to recheck the center mark on the cross-spale – without the clamps.
 
The next picture shows the bolt hole center being marked on frame A.
 

 
The last picture shows the first three frame pairs erected. 
 

 
A cross-spale was added to pair A because it was slightly off-pattern at the top.  The frames need to be correct at the breadth to use this method.  B was OK.  Frame C is ready to be set in this picture.
 
Progress at this point:  Pairs 0 to C set, 0 to G fabricated, 0 to K lofted.
 
 
Ed

A bit of progress on Effie. The deck is planked and scraped, but needs a bit of trimming around the various deck openings.  With no top timbers on the frames, sanding and scraping the deck planking was easier than when there are bulwarks or top timber framing in place.
 
There are stanchions between frames versus having top timbers on the frames. The frames stop at the same height as the top of the deck beams so the stanchions will be the support for the bulwark planking. 
 
When framing the model I placed small blocks between frames to give added strength.  Coincidentally, these act as a stop for the stanchions.  I have drawn these blocks in red on the attached.
 
I have started fitting filler decking pieces between the stanchions to close in the decking around the stanchions as shown on the photo.
 
Allan

The deck beams are coming along.  The pattern on the plans is odd in at least one place.  The photo 9-13-13B of the deck beam locations has a black arrow showing  what I mean.  This may be a result of one of the refurbishments made since she was originally launched.  There are also more typical uses of heavy beams, narrow beams, carlings and ledges, lodging knees and hanging knees.  The mast partners are relatively simple designs.  The hanging knees are in fact hanging standards as they fay to the bottom of the beams, not the sides of the beams.
 
I added a few of the knees where I plan to leave a bit of the deck uncovered.  I am also installing the after cabin bulkheads and deck as I may leave the sliding cover open.  There will also be a ladder going from the weather deck down  to the cabin deck.  
 
Allan