harvey1847

I swear, my next ship is going to be Gaetan sized..... if I can figure out where to put it. 
 
Anyway, keel number 5 is just stuck in position and not glued up yet.  Once glued, I'll do the final 3 half-frames but I do have to work on the transom first.  That would be that small pile of planks in L-square.  I've cut the rest of my planking and it's in the pic.
 

 
Just another quickie side-topic.... here's a shot of the setup on my saw for cutting the planks.  I set the wood to the fingerboards, move the fence, and cut a plank.  Move the wood to the left and then the fence and rip another strip.  I do it backwards since I'm left handed.  The featherboard is locked down (in this case) to produce a 1/32" thick plank.  The wood I'm cutting it from is 1/8" thick boxwood.
 

What a finished cut part might look like, according to the gcode software, after the router has its way with the wood...depends on a few factors like bit used, type of wood, air temp, humidity, if your above or below the equator.... etc...LOL
 
AL 

I agree Allen, its a real pain to do! Basically.... I just draw a new line on top of a captured screen shot of the PDF which is saved as a JPG file, the JPG file is then pulled into my 2D CAD program and placed in the back ground. Then I draw on top of the original lines, getting as close to accurate as I can to the original shape.  I have yet to find a good raster to vector converter that doesn't distort the image which still has to be redrawn by hand, so might as well do it by hand to start with and not even deal with any converter program distortions. Slow, yes!!..... its a labor of love for sure !! One aspect of it is that you get very familiar with the object your making! Once the new drawing is made, it is sized to the scale needed for the build and exported as a DXF file for use in my GCODE program which makes the cut file for the wood router to follow to make the part.
 
AL 

Thanks Joe and Patrick,
 
Most of the stove will be hidden when the gundeck is in place. LOL I have started working on the gundeck and this is a few progress photos.

This is a few photos of the stove and its placement on the ship.

Al
 
You can use the plans and use CNC to cut out the parts.   As long as they are for your own personal use on this project then feel free to use any method to cut out the parts.  As the hobby matures,  folks are starting to use new tools and technology.   Who are we to stand in the way.  I happen to prefer a sharp chisel or a scroll saw but other now find CAD and CNC or even laser cutting just as much a part of the process.   Its no different than someone using a Sherline Mill or Lathe vs.  a jewelers saw and chisel.   
 
The project is an introduction to scratch building and scratch building techniques.  CNC is just one of those techniques that are newer.  CAD and CNC are fast becoming a fun part of this hobby for lots of people.  They should be made to  feel welcome here.  So again I will welcome you to the group and forum.
 
Build away and enjoy the project.
 
The only disclaimer is that it be for your own personal use and you cant distribute cut parts to other builders.   I will enjoy watching you progress and dont hesitate to ask me any questions.  You have the complete blessing and authority from ADMIN and Owner alike.
 
Chuck

Well, it's been a few days since my last post and thank you all for your patience    I have been busy entertaining Gwen's sister and her husband - - - soooooohhh - - - nut much work was done.  But it's all been very nice and great for Gwen to be able to chat with her sister, getting updated on all that's been happening with the family back in Holland.
 
However - - - - I have been able to sneak some time in between all this family stuff though 
First I redid the slats on the dingy hatch doors, starboard side, they are now looking straight.
 
Next I completed both AA guns by adding some things to them and painting them.  So in effect, the conning tower is completed except for the antenna wires, but those will be done as the final last things on the boat.
Next month I'll start making the deck gun, I think.
 
Here is the pick with the completed AA guns ready for action !!
 

Forward and aft AA guns completed and placed in their buns, ready for action.  They can be completely pushed down and the lid closed. They have hand wheels on the sides to swivel the guns up and down for tracking aircraft and shoot them sown.
 
Cheers,
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 51 – Port side ceiling continued
 
It has been about a week since the last post.  Seems longer.  Work has been progressing, but most of it is similar to work covered in earlier posts, so there has not been much of interest to add.  The first picture shows the bilge ceiling being installed under the lower deck clamp aft on the port side.
 

 
At this stage all of the iron strapping is in place on both sides, so now it’s a matter of keeping it undamaged until it is covered by the various internal planking and clamps.  The next picture shows some of the lower strakes of the thick bilge ceiling being installed.
 

 
A fair amount of clamping is required to pull these 8” x 8” timbers into place and hold them there while the glue dries.  The deck clamps have been extended concurrently with work on the ceiling.  This can be seen in the next picture, which shows the current state of the model.
 

 
Below is another view showing the open areas in the bilge ceiling.  Later, nine frames in each of these sections and an aft section will be removed up to the height of the middle deck clamps.
 

 
The entire bilge ceiling is complete in this picture.  The thinner floor ceiling planking has not yet begun on the port side.  The next picture shows a closer view of the central view port area.
 

 
All of the bilge ceiling has been leveled out and given a preliminary sanding to allow the remaining iron (copper wire)  bolts to be installed.  All of the bolts have been installed in the completed deck clamps.
 
The last picture shows the starboard lower hull. 
 

 
In this picture the protruding bolts installed thus far have been filed and sanded off.  There are many more to install as the inside work continues.  The bolts are relatively invisible at this stage but will be much more prominent when etched black. 
 
The next step is to plank the floor area on the port side.
 
Ed
 

Viewing this thread one can really get a feel for what it must have been like to be a crew member during those times.
 
I hope you consider adding at least one gun crew to this masterpiece.
 

 
Thanks
 
S.os
 
 

Hello friends.
 
 C  Gun - Deck      /  Equipment complete.
 
  8    Sheep-pen   -   Schafspferch
  9    Main hutch   -   Hauptluke
10    Bread - oven  -  Brotofen
11    After ladder (for crew)    -  Treppe nach achtern für die Mannschaft
16    After -hatch    -  hintere Luke
12    Lower barrel of main capstan   -   unter Teil von dem Haupt-Gangspill
 
Karl 
 
 
T e i l   44
 

Quick update:  Most of the frames have been cut and shaped.  Once the keel is in place, the half frames at the bow will be shaped and installed.  I'm working on the keel, transom, and stem now.
 

Hi Pete! I started out with Wood Router Mill plans for a Joe's 4x4 Hybrid, got the main parts then decided to build my own parts out of alum instead of MDF, I guess I set the standard because now everybody has switched over to alum, even Joe the original designer...LOL. Then I rebuilt that machine using "Cast CNC" parts, so basically its a Joe's 4x4 Hybrid  converted to Cast alum parts and my own designed Z axis assembly. She'll do a 4'x4' cutting area but I normally only use it for X=4', Y=2', mainly because I left room at the front for a DIY 4th rotating axis, so its set up to 4 axis work. I have to do some modifications to the mechanical rotator on the 4th axis but I have it wired up to run. I hope to make my cannons, belaying pins, ships wheel handles.... etc. on it, in other words anything round!!!  I'll be using the CNC wood mill to cut all my hull formers.... etc... anything I can cut on it I will! I'll be doing this ship cross section with as much CNC help as I can.
I run Mach3Mill as the gcode driver software pushing a 4 axis HobbyCnc driver board which powers the stepper motors, Vectric Aspire software as my gcode generator, and DesignCad3DMax V22 as my CAD software, in 2D mode, still haven't taught myself 3D CAD yet, I always do my work in 2D.
I also have a Harbor Freight Mini Lathe, HF Mini Mill with DIY powered X axis, kind of a mini metal machine & wood machine shop for hobby use. All in a small room 12x12 inside the house where its warm!!...LOL
 
AL

Then......... using my DIY CNC Wood Milling machine, sliced off one part at a time.
 
 
AL

Starting my build of the H.M.S. Triton, 24:1 Scale, got the Keel parts completed, looking foreword to enjoying the build, just need permission to access D/L files. And no!!..... that red color on the wood is not blood.... LOL Its Cedar!! I cut a Cedar tree down last year and figured I'd use the wood.....this is my first ship build, so if it don't work out good, no expensive wood will be wasted.... I can always mess up good wood later... LOL  And I heard some where that Keel worms don't like Cedar.... LOL
 
Cheers
AL    

Greetings to all,
Well I said I would finish the lower deck by this week in order to get started on the gun deck but for some strange reason I find myself shying away from the hanging knees. I know that I have to get them done and incorporate them into my model. What I will do is follow Arthur’s suggestion and mount and secure my rotary tool onto a base frame and use it as a spindle sander to sand my hanging knees into shape. You may all wonder, “If Ray isn’t working on the hanging knees, then what in the heck is he doing?” Well I’m glad you asked. I am currently planking the port side of my model below the wales and she is starting to look rather sexy. The following pictures will show you what I’m talking about.
 

Hola Daniel,
I really appreciate the site you added to your post. I looked over the hold details and I thought every single item was excellently represented in a ship of that time frame. Once again thank you for the link.
 
Greetings and Salutations Matrim,
I appreciate the kudos for the pictures. I just thought that if I was someone else looking at my progress, I would like to see it from different angles to really get a feel for what actually drives someone to spend many hours on some areas that would likely get overlooked. I mean take the single hand pump I made for the Triton. I spent about an hour and a half on that single item and I really like the way she came out.

I have just cut out the patterns for the last 9-10 frames and pasted them on the wood, in the next couple of days I will cut them up and assemble the remaining frames, then on to the hawse pieces. I think then if I am not going to plank over the stern area, I might go back and rework some of the timbers there.....we'll see
 
sorry no pictures! when I have all the frames sitting on the keel I will take one.
 
 
Not much activity on this thread, every one must be getting ready for spring cleaning!!
 

Greetings to all,
The newest update to my Triton consists of planking around the gun ports both inboard and outboard (to include the outboards trim moldings). I’ve also completed the gun deck’s section of planking over the chain pump casing well, permanently attached both main topsail sheet bitts. I constructed the chain pump, one of the two hand pumps leading down the well, and installed the gun deck’s grating. I’ve also placed the first quarterdeck beam as a means of establishing how it is going to look once I get started on its.
Now here is my dilemma, in a couple of photos below you will see a couple of 7/8” barrels I purchased in Hobby Lobby. At this scale, the barrels will be equal to 42” in height which I believe are ideal size for the storage of the ships freshwater supply. My question is, did the Triton have platforms in its hold area? I ask because I believe that it will add for more details in the hold’s area and at the same time allow for the storage of barrels.

Hi Chuck S.
I'm no chemist but I don't believe the stuff I use is water based. It's Elmer's Craft Bond
Rubber Cement . It also has a warning that it is flammable and has a smell like contact
cement. Like any liquid that you put on paper it could cause distortion.  When I place
the paper on the wood I try to lay it as gently as possible and not to pull or stretch it.
If I have doubts I'll closely compare it to the plans. So far no issues for me doing it this way.
 
Well all of the bulkheads and braces have been glued in place, and it is very solid. I won't
have to worry while fairing the main part of the hull. As I move up to the tops of the
bulkheads especially the longer ones I may use some bracing on them. I'll have to see
what's what when I get there.
 

 

Added a bed and a closet for one of the cabins. The palliasse, a straw filled matras, was made from sculpey. I found a picture on the internet and made one like it.
 

 

 

 

 
The pantry was made using the same technique as the sail room
 

 
Remco

I took the gratings out before painting/coating the decks. The cross parts are not beveled as they shall be (also not on the frame where they lay), but this is hidden/not seen on the model - so I did not make it.
 
Dražen
 

Just few pictures what I did in last days
 
Dražen

Thanks, Matrim.
 
I have a joke I tell all my friends...
 
Do you know what a short story is?
 
I don't.
 
I was a bit tired when I posted the last entry. I duplicated one photo and forgot this one of the completed frames.
 

Wow that was fast. I still remember the good old days of Chach86 who would take 6 months to lay one plank down...

I have finished planking the inside of the hull up to the lower deck clamps with poplar and am in the process of treenailing all the planks to the frames.  I also started the planking on the outside hull, but will wait until the inside is finished before finishing the outside.  I am using bamboo for the treenails.