Beef Wellington

Really like the look of your stand there Eamonn, I to like the knots....but "down with that sort o' thing"...

Hi, yes you have Snake bulwarks!  Now that you show it, it should have been obvious from your prior posts (and I feel bad for not noticing!) but so easy to miss for those of us building Snake because it looks 'right'.  The larger gun port size is to accommodate the carronade armament rather than cannons, looking at your earlier pictures it seems they unfortunately, but correctly, supplied cannons.  What to do?  I think your options are limited to the following:
Simply install the cannons in the larger port.  If you look at my Snake log, you will see that I installed cannons in the first port which seemed to be practice at the time, this gives you a sense for how this would look. strip off wood and redo, I completely understand how painful this would be (if its any consolation I had to do that partly on my 'Jason' build to move upper deck gunports, it can be done with patience, but would totally understand your frustration.  This might be messier if you used CA glue (which I think you did) rather than PVA glue which can be softened with isopropyl alcohol. Strip off wood as per above and paint - this would give you more options to fix less 'perfectly' or comprehensively, but....you end up using paint.... Change the armament to carronades.  There would plenty of justification for this given this large class of ships would have only had cannons for a short period of time on a few of the very early built ships.  A carronade armed, 2 masted Cruizer class would probably be more historically relevant/accurate.  However, you would need to source some carronades.  It could be worth contacting CC and explain the situation, they may be willing to provide these, their customer service is typically good.  They also provide more upgraded turned brass aftermarket kits, however these are very expensive, especially for the whole ship.  

Hi Folks ... Quick Update ..
 
This past week or so I have been properly examining the Stand situation, it was never my intention to display Ballahoo on the Kit stand but instead to build a kind of Launch Way of one type or another (very similar to Dirks in fact)
So after a fair amount of browsing through various examples of 'Slip Way' Type Stands, I narrowed it down to the one below.. This is one I first saw on Dubz's Sherbourne build log and also on another Cutter (in a Museum I think) and it seemed perfect !
It isn't quiet finished yet but is about 90% there, all that's left is to fine tune the Keel supports and build the upright side Supports (4 per side) then stain the whole affair Medium Oak colour.
The Base the stand is sitting on isn't the permanent one, the knots are a bit prominent (though that said I kinda like it  )
 
All The Best
 
Eamonn

And The Back Stays Are Done ..    (with No Obvious 'Deliberate' Mistakes Either 🙄 )
 
Got a fair bit of rigging done today, kinda got a production line going.
 
All The Very Best & Thanks For Stopping By
 
Eamonn
 

Fore Mast Back Stays done ...they too are served to just below the Gaff (same as the Shrouds)
 
Just the Main Mast Ones to do and then onto Ratlines and Anchor Work & Flag Halyard etc (The 'To Do List' is getting smaller by the day   still plenty left though not least a visit to the stand where I may make a kind of Launch Way similar to Dirks Sherbourne )
 
Thanks for looking in Folks
 
Eamonn

Quick photos of my Jig mentioned above ..  it is a real time and patience saver ! 
You can hopefully just see the point of the needle sticking up slightly through the Block hole in the 2nd photo.
 
Photo 1 shows one of the most useful devices I use, the weighted 'tweezers' holder, it is a life saver for rigging as with the right tension on the thumb screws it can be adjusted easily with one hand simply by 'gently twisting' the joins or the base of the tweezers themselves, you can see my scrap wood jig in front of it too..
 
Note.. It took much longer to write this than to make that stropped block !
 
Cheers Folks
 
Eamonn
 
 

Just finished the pendant part of the Fore Mast Back Stays and I have to say .. If anyone ever suggests building a simple jig to help with attaching blocks to rigging please take them up on it, I made one today.. nothing more complicated than a scrap block of wood (in my case about 17cm x 7cm x 2cm block) with a small hole drilled in it, enough to accept the eye end of a sewing needle to about 1cm deep, I popped the needle into it and put the small block onto the point (using one of the blocks holes) this kept the block at a good height and rigid with easy access for attaching the rope and seizing it in place especially with one of those self closing tweezers held in a clamp...   
Previously I was attempting to hold the block in the same tweezers held in a desk top vice whilst trying to wrap the rope around it and seize it too ..  all my blocks were done in this manner and it doesn't half bring on a sweat (not to mention the old Hunt The Tiny Block In The Carpet game when it 'zings' out of the tweezers   )
Oh and the Jig took me all of 3 mins to make and that includes a 2nd hole drilled near the first to accept another needle in case I want to make a loop in the end of the block !!
 
Just remove the needle whenever you are finished as you have a very sharp object sticking up out of a block of wood (I marked the hole to make finding it easier as it is small) 😐 As Father Ted would say .. 'Careful Now'
 
All The Best Folks And Thank You Joe & Stergios for the nice comments and to all the Likes also
 
Cheers
 
Eamonn

Subtle but noticeable difference...looking good BE.   Looks like a fun little project.  Good decision on the deck by the way, much more in tune with a working fishing boat.

Post 13


 
A Brief diversion from the main event.


 
Included in the kit is a beautifully etched name plate for the Lady Eleanor.


 
What isn’t included in the kit is the Registration Number, something every fishing vessel would have.


 
So, I decided Lady Eleanor should have one too.


 
As Fraserburgh was a centre of the North East herring fishing trade I used the letter code FR.

 

For the number I decided on 620 being the month and year of the model build.


 
It wasn’t by accident that I decided on fitting the first rubbing strake 6mm below the top strakes. This is the space required for the Registration plate.


 
To make the plate I used a 6mm wide Boxwood strip, and for the characters BECC 5mm vinyl.


5563(2)
The lettering is gold which I don’t want, these registration plates seemed to have white lettering on a black board.

 
The answer is to paint the board white, apply the letters, paint over with a waterproof black marker, and hope the result is as desired once the letters are peeled off.


5568(2)
Well not quite, there was a little bleed beneath the vinyl which required touching in, but I quite like the result.


5576(2)

5578(2)
For a simpler approach Becc do supply 5mm white letter/number sets which could simply be fitted on a black board.


 
Just a small enhancement but now back to the build.


 
B.E.

17/06/20

 
 

Subtle but noticeable difference...looking good BE.   Looks like a fun little project.  Good decision on the deck by the way, much more in tune with a working fishing boat.

Hi Rob, yes the strips were just cut straight.  I was fearful these would need to be spiled but that did not prove necessary.  When damp, the cardstock was very forgiving to place, each was only around 2.5mm wide.

@mugje - just to be clear, the resin hull shown is an 'aftermarket' mini-kit supplied by caldercraft, its not included in the kit.  What I'm attempting to do is leverage the kit supplied items as best I can.
 
Cutter Progress: Part 2
 
Keel and bow section was cut out of some spare wood and glued in place, and once the basic hull was completed, a decision was needed on how to add a second layer of planking, kit instructions specify to use another layer of 0.5mm walnut.  I really wanted to try and replicate the clinker hull planking shown in the AOTS Diana book, and to do this a used some cardstock instead of wood to cut individual strakes.  Fist challenge was to determine the width of each plank on the hull.  This was done using 'tick strips' at about 10 points along the hull.  The lowest (non-clinkered) garboard strake was simply omitted.  The end of the cardstock strips were cut down (rather than truly tapered) to allow the planking to terminate smoothly at the front bow and stern which is how I believe the planking is done in practice.  Each strip was cut to about 2.5mm thickness, the benefit of cardstock is that when coated with dilute PVA glue it becomes very manageable and can simply be bent to shape rather than the spiling that would have been necessary if wood had been used.
 
Once the hull had been marked out to 'prove' the planking separation, these were not referenced again.  Once a strip had been installed, the lowest point of the next strip was placed using the tickstrips.  This process was simply repeated, with time allowed for the glue to dry sufficiently for the surface to harden.  Dilute PVA was used quite liberally to ensure a good bond between the wood and card as the hope is for this to add additional structural strength.
 

 

 
The final 2 strakes were completed with one wider strip as the uppermost strake is non-clinkered and would not be visible.  Extra height was added for safety as this can be easily cut back once glue has dried.
 

 
Once both sides had been completed, each was  given a few more coats of dilute PVA for added insurance....why not?!  With the exterior planking work completed, attention could be turned to the interior and the potentially catastrophic step of removing the frames.  This actually went smoothly, but has to be approached with patience and a light hand.  The kit base was removed as well as the actual flooring should be a little lower I feel.  The frames were cut back a little more than is perhaps necessary, but this will allow flexibility as to where the floor is, and hopefully prevent them from being seen.  Practically, it also allowed the interior planking to be sanded more effectively.  The hull in this state clearly needs a light hand, but is surprisingly robust despite my fears.
 
Once an initial sanding had been completed, some light wood filler was used to fill imperfections and deal with some of the slight clinkering of the topmost walnut strips.  Once sanded back, dilute PVA was once again brushed on....yes, paranoia perhaps, but can't hurt.
 

 
Finally I was able to add an initial coat of white point to the hull to get a better idea of how this turned out (In this case Valejo 'off white' as it was all I could get from Amazon in a reasonable timeframe).  This highlighted that some finish work will be required in some areas where the eye is drawn to surface imperfections, but one thing I've learned is that the cardstock planks can be effectively sanded, probably due to the application of dilute PVA glue.  Definitely some fine tuning still needed and far from perfect, but its hard not to be pleased with the result for a first attempt.
 

I’ve been designing the main deck and taking my cues from Lemineur’s St. Philippe monograph.
 
The beam locations are taken and extrapolated from the junction of the hatches:

The hatch-marked areas are the cut-outs for the hatches and companionway.  To either side of the hatches will be the central pair of king planks, which are marked out.
 
The hatch combing will be contiguous with the central king planks, but with radius’d corners at the forward end of the main hatch, where they will drop down to the main deck level.
 
The main mast will have a mast plate that is flush with the combing framing.  I’ll cut the opening in the base deck layer a little loose, so that I can make a final plumb on the main mast, which I found to be a little out of plumb, at the mid-deck level.
 
The hashed line, on the port side, is the symmetrical outline of the starboard side; I needed to use the flatter side as my baseline for laying out the tapered fore/aft planking.
 
The trick is figuring out the plank tapering while accommodating the   second pair of king planks, with five strakes of regular planks, in-between.
 
I haven’t figured out, just yet, how to lay all of that out.  For tonight, though, I’m satisfied with my progress.

Hi Rob, yes the strips were just cut straight.  I was fearful these would need to be spiled but that did not prove necessary.  When damp, the cardstock was very forgiving to place, each was only around 2.5mm wide.

Hi Rob, yes the strips were just cut straight.  I was fearful these would need to be spiled but that did not prove necessary.  When damp, the cardstock was very forgiving to place, each was only around 2.5mm wide.

@mugje - just to be clear, the resin hull shown is an 'aftermarket' mini-kit supplied by caldercraft, its not included in the kit.  What I'm attempting to do is leverage the kit supplied items as best I can.
 
Cutter Progress: Part 2
 
Keel and bow section was cut out of some spare wood and glued in place, and once the basic hull was completed, a decision was needed on how to add a second layer of planking, kit instructions specify to use another layer of 0.5mm walnut.  I really wanted to try and replicate the clinker hull planking shown in the AOTS Diana book, and to do this a used some cardstock instead of wood to cut individual strakes.  Fist challenge was to determine the width of each plank on the hull.  This was done using 'tick strips' at about 10 points along the hull.  The lowest (non-clinkered) garboard strake was simply omitted.  The end of the cardstock strips were cut down (rather than truly tapered) to allow the planking to terminate smoothly at the front bow and stern which is how I believe the planking is done in practice.  Each strip was cut to about 2.5mm thickness, the benefit of cardstock is that when coated with dilute PVA glue it becomes very manageable and can simply be bent to shape rather than the spiling that would have been necessary if wood had been used.
 
Once the hull had been marked out to 'prove' the planking separation, these were not referenced again.  Once a strip had been installed, the lowest point of the next strip was placed using the tickstrips.  This process was simply repeated, with time allowed for the glue to dry sufficiently for the surface to harden.  Dilute PVA was used quite liberally to ensure a good bond between the wood and card as the hope is for this to add additional structural strength.
 

 

 
The final 2 strakes were completed with one wider strip as the uppermost strake is non-clinkered and would not be visible.  Extra height was added for safety as this can be easily cut back once glue has dried.
 

 
Once both sides had been completed, each was  given a few more coats of dilute PVA for added insurance....why not?!  With the exterior planking work completed, attention could be turned to the interior and the potentially catastrophic step of removing the frames.  This actually went smoothly, but has to be approached with patience and a light hand.  The kit base was removed as well as the actual flooring should be a little lower I feel.  The frames were cut back a little more than is perhaps necessary, but this will allow flexibility as to where the floor is, and hopefully prevent them from being seen.  Practically, it also allowed the interior planking to be sanded more effectively.  The hull in this state clearly needs a light hand, but is surprisingly robust despite my fears.
 
Once an initial sanding had been completed, some light wood filler was used to fill imperfections and deal with some of the slight clinkering of the topmost walnut strips.  Once sanded back, dilute PVA was once again brushed on....yes, paranoia perhaps, but can't hurt.
 

 
Finally I was able to add an initial coat of white point to the hull to get a better idea of how this turned out (In this case Valejo 'off white' as it was all I could get from Amazon in a reasonable timeframe).  This highlighted that some finish work will be required in some areas where the eye is drawn to surface imperfections, but one thing I've learned is that the cardstock planks can be effectively sanded, probably due to the application of dilute PVA glue.  Definitely some fine tuning still needed and far from perfect, but its hard not to be pleased with the result for a first attempt.
 

One question - are each of the planking strakes straight, or did you curve them to fit the hull? It sounds from your description like you made them straight, then used plenty of pva to make them pliable enough to side-bend when fitted?

@mugje - just to be clear, the resin hull shown is an 'aftermarket' mini-kit supplied by caldercraft, its not included in the kit.  What I'm attempting to do is leverage the kit supplied items as best I can.
 
Cutter Progress: Part 2
 
Keel and bow section was cut out of some spare wood and glued in place, and once the basic hull was completed, a decision was needed on how to add a second layer of planking, kit instructions specify to use another layer of 0.5mm walnut.  I really wanted to try and replicate the clinker hull planking shown in the AOTS Diana book, and to do this a used some cardstock instead of wood to cut individual strakes.  Fist challenge was to determine the width of each plank on the hull.  This was done using 'tick strips' at about 10 points along the hull.  The lowest (non-clinkered) garboard strake was simply omitted.  The end of the cardstock strips were cut down (rather than truly tapered) to allow the planking to terminate smoothly at the front bow and stern which is how I believe the planking is done in practice.  Each strip was cut to about 2.5mm thickness, the benefit of cardstock is that when coated with dilute PVA glue it becomes very manageable and can simply be bent to shape rather than the spiling that would have been necessary if wood had been used.
 
Once the hull had been marked out to 'prove' the planking separation, these were not referenced again.  Once a strip had been installed, the lowest point of the next strip was placed using the tickstrips.  This process was simply repeated, with time allowed for the glue to dry sufficiently for the surface to harden.  Dilute PVA was used quite liberally to ensure a good bond between the wood and card as the hope is for this to add additional structural strength.
 

 

 
The final 2 strakes were completed with one wider strip as the uppermost strake is non-clinkered and would not be visible.  Extra height was added for safety as this can be easily cut back once glue has dried.
 

 
Once both sides had been completed, each was  given a few more coats of dilute PVA for added insurance....why not?!  With the exterior planking work completed, attention could be turned to the interior and the potentially catastrophic step of removing the frames.  This actually went smoothly, but has to be approached with patience and a light hand.  The kit base was removed as well as the actual flooring should be a little lower I feel.  The frames were cut back a little more than is perhaps necessary, but this will allow flexibility as to where the floor is, and hopefully prevent them from being seen.  Practically, it also allowed the interior planking to be sanded more effectively.  The hull in this state clearly needs a light hand, but is surprisingly robust despite my fears.
 
Once an initial sanding had been completed, some light wood filler was used to fill imperfections and deal with some of the slight clinkering of the topmost walnut strips.  Once sanded back, dilute PVA was once again brushed on....yes, paranoia perhaps, but can't hurt.
 

 
Finally I was able to add an initial coat of white point to the hull to get a better idea of how this turned out (In this case Valejo 'off white' as it was all I could get from Amazon in a reasonable timeframe).  This highlighted that some finish work will be required in some areas where the eye is drawn to surface imperfections, but one thing I've learned is that the cardstock planks can be effectively sanded, probably due to the application of dilute PVA glue.  Definitely some fine tuning still needed and far from perfect, but its hard not to be pleased with the result for a first attempt.
 

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Sorry for the delay to recognize the kind comments and likes!  
 
24 Foot Cutter:
 
Work has started on the 24' Cutter.  I'm recording my progress in this log as it seems more logical coming from this kit, however, I hope to mount this boat on my other build, Snake.  I leaning toward not mounting any ships boats on Jason, at least directly, so this seems a good opportunity to stick my toe in the water on these smaller boats without risk of serious catastrophe if things don't turn out as planned...I'm determined to make the best show of these as I can building from the kit, so we'll see.  Many other build logs seem to show the finished article so I wanted to try and record progress as I stumble in the dark.
 
The frame parts fit together pretty easily, however what is not clear is how these would ultimately go together to end up as a cutter.  The instructions essentially say 'plank this as you did the main hull' which isn't too much help.  The first decision was to figure out where the frames should be set in the keel former.  Looking at the profile and the lines, it seemed the best option was to sit the frames approx. 1mm above the keel bottom.  This will mean that planking will be pretty much flush with the keel former so an external keel will need to be added.
 

 
Straight away the stern fascia looked far too small so a replacement was made from the same 1.5mm ply.

 
The formers at the bow we reduced and beveled as best could be estimated envisioning the final hull shape and how the plank will sit, and some limewood shaped at the stern.

 
The instructions do indicate the floor should be glued in position, however I want to leave the option open to remove this as it seems to sit a little high (should be at same hight as the keelson), and put the floor planking (footwalling) in as low as possible once the hull is completed.  Profiling the frames also indicated another challenge, the 1.5mm play is rather soft and pliable, and very thin in places.  To try and reduce the strain, some limewood reinforcement was glued to the most delicate frames.  Even with this, this requires a light hand.
 
Planking could then commence using 0.5mm walnut provided.  The usual frustration here, the kit supplied walnut is poor....no more need be said.  The main challenge at this stage is that the planking can't be glued heavily to the frames as these will need to be removed later on, and the keel former is rather bendy.  Small amounts of PVA glue were used to keep planks in position on a few frames only.  CA glue was used to attach the walnut strip at the bow.  A second strake has been added so far using the same approach, only some PVA glue was applied to the strip edges to try and bond these.  Once set, dilute PVA glue was brushed onto the installed planks to try and give it a little more strength at this stage.
 
We'll see where this goes...

 

But some small bit I still managed to do yesterday:
 
First organised the parts on slightly adhesive tape for not messing up the running order of the different lengths.
 

 
Then fixed the iron supports ...
 

 
... and as usual started with the shorter irons of the smaller deadeyes.
 

 
That was the state of yesterday night, just to remember, there will still be a batten in front of the board hiding the slots.
 

 
XXXDAn

Can't believe 4 years have lapsed since first starting this model but sadly this build started to slacken after a while due to various circumstances. However, pleased to advise we have picked things up again and whilst I am sure there is a considerable gap in my photo record let me already share the very latest to show where I am with things - finished the 4.5' gun turret last night, worked on the funnel and gave the superstructure some colour. Enjoy,
 
E

@mugje - just to be clear, the resin hull shown is an 'aftermarket' mini-kit supplied by caldercraft, its not included in the kit.  What I'm attempting to do is leverage the kit supplied items as best I can.
 
Cutter Progress: Part 2
 
Keel and bow section was cut out of some spare wood and glued in place, and once the basic hull was completed, a decision was needed on how to add a second layer of planking, kit instructions specify to use another layer of 0.5mm walnut.  I really wanted to try and replicate the clinker hull planking shown in the AOTS Diana book, and to do this a used some cardstock instead of wood to cut individual strakes.  Fist challenge was to determine the width of each plank on the hull.  This was done using 'tick strips' at about 10 points along the hull.  The lowest (non-clinkered) garboard strake was simply omitted.  The end of the cardstock strips were cut down (rather than truly tapered) to allow the planking to terminate smoothly at the front bow and stern which is how I believe the planking is done in practice.  Each strip was cut to about 2.5mm thickness, the benefit of cardstock is that when coated with dilute PVA glue it becomes very manageable and can simply be bent to shape rather than the spiling that would have been necessary if wood had been used.
 
Once the hull had been marked out to 'prove' the planking separation, these were not referenced again.  Once a strip had been installed, the lowest point of the next strip was placed using the tickstrips.  This process was simply repeated, with time allowed for the glue to dry sufficiently for the surface to harden.  Dilute PVA was used quite liberally to ensure a good bond between the wood and card as the hope is for this to add additional structural strength.
 

 

 
The final 2 strakes were completed with one wider strip as the uppermost strake is non-clinkered and would not be visible.  Extra height was added for safety as this can be easily cut back once glue has dried.
 

 
Once both sides had been completed, each was  given a few more coats of dilute PVA for added insurance....why not?!  With the exterior planking work completed, attention could be turned to the interior and the potentially catastrophic step of removing the frames.  This actually went smoothly, but has to be approached with patience and a light hand.  The kit base was removed as well as the actual flooring should be a little lower I feel.  The frames were cut back a little more than is perhaps necessary, but this will allow flexibility as to where the floor is, and hopefully prevent them from being seen.  Practically, it also allowed the interior planking to be sanded more effectively.  The hull in this state clearly needs a light hand, but is surprisingly robust despite my fears.
 
Once an initial sanding had been completed, some light wood filler was used to fill imperfections and deal with some of the slight clinkering of the topmost walnut strips.  Once sanded back, dilute PVA was once again brushed on....yes, paranoia perhaps, but can't hurt.
 

 
Finally I was able to add an initial coat of white point to the hull to get a better idea of how this turned out (In this case Valejo 'off white' as it was all I could get from Amazon in a reasonable timeframe).  This highlighted that some finish work will be required in some areas where the eye is drawn to surface imperfections, but one thing I've learned is that the cardstock planks can be effectively sanded, probably due to the application of dilute PVA glue.  Definitely some fine tuning still needed and far from perfect, but its hard not to be pleased with the result for a first attempt.
 

Post 10

Deck planking


 
I will use 0.7mm thick Boxwood strip;

4.5mm wide for the margin planks, and 3.4mm for the planking, which are a good match for the etched scale planks.


 
The first task is to fit the margin planks. Thanks to the fairly gentle curves this is done with edge bending a single strip.


 
I start the deck planking along each side of the centre line.


The overall scale length for planks within the area between the fish hatch boundary are within feasible full-length planks without the need for butt joints.


This doesn’t mean there couldn’t be if the opportunity to use a shorter length presented itself for the purposes of economy of use.


5447
There is a need for joggling into the margin plank from the outset.

 

5450(2)
Once I am outside of the fish hatch area I’ll work out a butt joint pattern.

 

5452(2)
Completion takes a couple of days, the butt shifts are far less in number than on the etched version.

It is a slightly less formal arrangement than on naval ships but the principles relating to adjacent butts and shifts has been followed.

 

combo
A side by side comparison.

 
The laid deck requires scraping, but overall I prefer the look, and it didn’t take much effort to do it.

Having the thin strip is necessary but the whole thing was done using Swann-morten micro chisels, and a No11 scalpel blade.


 
I have dispensed with the mitred patterns surrounding the hatches etc as they are something I don’t recognise and can’t see the purpose of.

 

5463
The etched deck was useful as a template for cutting cleanly around all the hatch openings etc;

 

5471
I will now return to cleaning the hull in preparation for painting.


 

 
B.E.

14/06/20

 
 

Hi Rob, I'm always amazed at your very thoughtful and methodical approaches to things using the CAD drawings, I really want to learn that.  Your cutter framing is looking fantastic.  You'll have a really solid foundation there, and the photos always seem to belay the small scale of these things, feel like all fingers and thumbs. All the best!