Beef Wellington

Thanks chaps for the ongoing interest and support.
 
Continuing to feel my way through this.  I really wanted to make the kit materials work, but had to go off on my own which was educational, and more fun than I expected.  I managed to get only 3 strakes of the walnut strip, with tapering, on before it became apparent that no more could be done - even with these some clinkering was unavoidable even with the thin strip.  The thin 0.5mm walnut strips (all of varying thickness and closer to 0.65mm thick) don't edge bend at all to be able to use that technique and luckily some ~1mm thick wood sheet was found from which spiled planks could be cut (not sure what it is, CMB had supplied this when I ordered maple, but it clearly isn't and my guess is its limewood sheet, its pretty soft).  You can see the curvature required below.  The keel former was cut back to provide a slight rebate for the planking at bow and stern, fiddly and a bit messy but seemed to work.  Glad the more structural work is behind me.
 

 
The garboard was installed before the planking was closed up, don't think the shape is fully correct for actual planking practice as this was not tapered at all, but it allowed the last 2 strakes to fit easily enough.   The other benefit was that the final strake had a straight side which made shaping that much easier.  Glue was only used very sparingly on a few strakes and frames where necessary to keep the lines true.  After each strake was positioned, the surface was sanded lightly and diluted PVA glue  brushed on to the whole to hopefully add some additional strength.
 

 

 
Finally, here's a comparison of the hull form to the resin Cutter mini-kit supplied by CC, I bought this way back with the kit.  This looks much more like a launch rather than the sleeker Cutter's lines and overall proportions very different.  To my eye the stern fascia is probably a little big proportionally but need to consider that the keel strip is not yet installed which will change the proportion, but will probably reduce this a little by thinning down the planking thickness there.  Rather than put on a second layer of planks, I'm considering using card stock as a second 'planking' layer to represent clinker planking.  It needs something because when the interior is sanded down the hull could be wafer thin...to quote Mr Creosote.  Any thoughts or experiences with this?
 
Next steps will be to cut and install custom bow and keel pieces, and remove the bizarre sternpost aft of the stern bulkhead that doesn't seem prototypical.  
 

 
 

Hello to everyone.
Just a couple of pics from my recent stages.
I have finished the rigging of the bowstring mast [some details in need of touch up for later]..
Next and final step: the yards. I'll start from the foremast working upwards on each consecutive mast.
 
I've left for later only the ropes of fore  and fore top-mast stay and preventer stay, just to have a better working-space for the fore mast yard.
If you believe I go wrong, I'll be glad to see your comments.
Cheers
 

Good evening everyone
 
the wheel house is getting attention again. another spot light fitted and the bits and pieces that stand in front of the window. which still have  to be toned down, two more air vents to find that sit on the roof
 
tonight the boat deck supports are being fitted, they cannot be secured to the hull as the whole assembly is removable, so i dont quite know how to stop them falling inwards, as they are on wire hinges
 
 
 

She's looking pretty swish, Kevin!
 
John

good evening everyone
 
starting from the front i am now working aft to ensure everything is where it should be, but not necessarily complete, taking her outside has allowed me to look for some missing bits and to clean her off again
 
i never did find the otter board hinges, so make some 

glazing of some of the windows using white pva glue

steam winch mounting board is now pinned into position, the winch will be one of the last items to be fitted

and the boat deck supports get a yellow coat, these will be cut to size when the superstructure get fixed on, as they sit on top of the capping rail

 
 
 

Good evening everyone
 
slowly the front end is looking like a, well, a front end, a very light weathering so far, not sure how far i will take that, railings and anchor capstan are secured, as well as the ladder, next the  bollards, cleats, anchor and associated gear, and securing points for the stays will be hopefully in place by tomorrow night
 
some of the remaing bits to be identified, cleaned up and a home on the build found for them

Good morning everyone
 
Waleback fitting out
 
getting the pointy end over the finishing line, the  railings are still to be trimmed to size, nothing is fitted yet, i may use this area as a dumping fround when in the diorama setting, boxes, bikes, ropes, lol my mind runs riot with ideas, actually doing it is a different thing altogether
 
my next build will be the Talisman Paddle steamer in cutaway, having failed to do it on here as promised
 

good evening everyone

from the previous photo's you can see a wedge under the mast , this was not required

this angle was to much so today i sorted it  out, what happened was, i required a shim to fit the main mast, as per the instructions, and did the same for the foremast, not thinking that the deck was already providing the required angle, wedge removed, two part epoxy and pins made it more hard work than was needed, im happier now its now fixed back in place

another fix sorted
 
  

1:50 Brig Aris – Historical Ships range
Navarino Models
Catalogue # C502
Available from Navarino Models for €549,00
 

 
The 350-ton Aris was constructed as a merchant vessel in Venice in 1807. Upon the outbreak of the Greek Revolution in March 1821, her owner, Anastasios Tsamados (1774-1825) from Hydra, armed the ship with 16 12-pounder guns and joined the fleet of his home island. Aris participated in many of the early naval clashes with the Ottoman Navy but became famous after the action fought at Navarino on 8 May [O.S. 26 April] 1825, which became known as the "Sortie of Aris" (Έξοδος του Άρεως). At that time, a Greek garrison was quartered at the island at Sphacteria, which controlled the entrance of the excellent natural harbour of the Bay of Pylos (Navarino). Ibrahim Pasha of Egypt, tasked by the Ottoman sultan to suppress the Greek revolt, needed to take the island in order to use the bay for his own purposes. Aris, along with 5 other brigs, were anchored at Sphacteria when, on the morning of April 26, the combined Ottoman-Egyptian fleet arrived and started its attack on the island, bombarding the Greek positions and disembarking numerous troops. Most captains of the ships were on land, along with part of their crews, who were manning the island's cannons. The other ships sailed before the Ottoman fleet could seal off the bay, and after fighting off the Ottomans, were able to escape. The crew of Aris however still awaited their captain, who had been killed. Instead, Nikolaos Votsis, the captain of the Athena, which had already sailed without him, and Dimitrios Sachtouris, the commander of the Navarino fortress, came aboard, fleeing the advancing Egyptian soldiers. Votsis took over as captain, with Sachtouris as his first mate, and set sail. Also present on the ship was the Secretary of State, Alexandros Mavrokordatos, who was sent to the hold for safety. Aris sailed through the midst of the Turco-Egyptian fleet, being attacked on all sides for several hours and facing in total 32 ships one after another, before reaching the open sea. Casualties among the crew were just two dead and six wounded.

After the end of the War of Independence, the ship was bought by the Greek government for the new Royal Hellenic Navy and renamed Athena (Αθηνά). It reverted to its old name in 1879, and was in service, mainly as a training vessel for the Hellenic Naval Academy, until 7 April [O.S. 25 March] 1921, when it was ceremonially sunk off Salamis with full honours on the 100th anniversary of the Greek Revolution. The action, justified on the grounds of the expense involved in the ship's maintenance, caused much criticism at the time from those who favoured her retention as a naval monument. Today, only the ship's figurehead is preserved, at the National Historical Museum of Athens.
 
 
The kit
This is our second Navarino Models review, with me taking a look at their Brockley Combe back in 2018. This time, Navarino have done the subject they always wanted to tackle, and that is a ship that was a belligerent at the battle from which the company named itself. And they’ve not done this by half either, with this release being presented in a high-quality birch ply box with a sliding lid that has a little trough for your finger to gip when you open the lid. The lid is also colour-printed with the box art, and each box is engraved with a serial number. Mine is kit #2! Navarino also asked if I’d like my name engraved, and they did this for me too.

Now, this is a HEAVY box, so some care is needed in opening this up to take a look inside. Sliding back that lid uncovers some layers of bubble packing that stop anything rolling around whilst in transit. Hang on a minute...what is this I see? Well, Babis, the owner of Navarino Models obviously spotted my Facebook avatar and knew I was a Bowie fan, so he popped a 7” single in there of Blue Jean! That has surely got to be the most original item I’ve ever received with a kit! The covering letter explains a little too.


Ok, back onto the subject. Underneath the protective layers, we have six sheets of plans, some sheets which form the plan identification, and also a set of English language instructions. Remove this and we see two clear plastic trays of fittings, a bag of rigging material, two bags of plywood components, three sheets of 6mm ply parts, two bundles of strip timber, and two large ply deck sections. Before I jump into the contents, here’s a great little video made by Navarino, highlighting their new kit, with some finished images of this famous brig. 
 
 
Suggested Tools
Navarino supply the following text to recommend tools for the project, but you may of course have your own alternatives:
Pliers, hammer (a small one), saws, chisels, knives, files, drills, electric plank bender or a mini travel iron, rasps (flat & half round), needle threaders, tweezers, rulers, squares, compass, awl, clamps, sanding blocks (small wood blocks, ice cream sticks), sandpaper (aluminium oxide is best), hobby plane, vice, scissors, pins, drills.
 
For painting
Again more suggestions from Navarino Models:
Colour selection: Initially it is advisable to choose to use model paints on this model. They are produced exclusively for modelling use. The choice of the company is yours. You will also choose whether to be acrylics or enamels. Another alternative is oil painting, but these require more time to dry.
Varnishes: These can be applied by brush or spray. Matt or satin or satin are preferable for use, but not gloss as this is more likely to be used on a sailing yacht!
Brushes: Use good quality brushes with round, pointed and flat bristles, depending on the surface you are painting. Clean them thoroughly and after a painting session, wash them with a mild detergent to condition them.
 
Main deck sections

Two large, thin ply parts, pre-cut to size with CNC, are supplied for the main deck sections. Minimal clean-up is required around the mast positions, to remove a little furriness from the machining process. These deck sections give a pretty good idea about the size of this brig in 1:50, and just how fat she was in the beam. At 1143mm in length, this is definitely a large model when complete.
 
False keel, bulkheads, cheeks etc.

Three sheets of high quality 6mm birch ply are included which contain Aris’ main hull construction elements. As with all cutting on this kit, the parts are machined using CNC, and some very minor clean-up of some edges will need to be done with tickling the edges with a sheet of abrasive paper. All machining is excellent, with small tabs (not full sheet depth) that you will cut through to release the parts. Due to the length of the hull, the false keel is provided in two sections. Two stiffening parts are included to encapsulate the joint area and provide extra strength. There is no engraving of part numbers on the sheets, so you will need to refer to the parts maps that is included with the kit’s paperwork. All ply sheets are nice and flat with no visible warpage. 




 
Strip wood

Two substantial bundles of strip wood are supplied, in 500mm lengths. One bundle contains the lime planking material for the first layer of planking. You are advised to cut these so as to maximise the material usage during planking. All of this is hidden, or course, but you still need a good solid base to work from. A length of brass wire is tucked in there too for later use.



A second bundle of the same length contains both strip, and dowel for the masts, yards and bowsprit etc in ramin, and beech for strip and basswood for dowel. You will also see the material for the second planking, and also for deck planking etc. Some of this timber is dark on the end cut, presumably through the machining process. As before, all timber is excellent quality with no fluffy edges or defects to be seen.
 
More ply parts

A pack of smaller, CNC-cut birch ply parts is included. Here you will find cannon carriage and wheels, channels, etc. Parts are nicely machined, but some clean-up will be required to remove any fluffy edges from the CNC cutting process.




There are also another two packs of thin ply parts. One of these contains the poop and forecastle decks, stern décor trim and parts for the tops. The other pack holds parts exclusively for the three launches, namely the internals, rudders and oars. These are very thin ply and the internals in my kit had broken in almost the same place on the rear third of the part. These are repairable though. These parts will also need some clean-up before they can be used. I think if the ply grain had run the other way, they would perhaps have not broken. 





 
Components tray #1

Two blown plastic trays of parts are included in this kit. The first one contains a whole range of detail parts in various materials. Here you will find copper chain, deck grating comb set, boxwood ladder sets, 3D-printed Aris figurehead, hull mounting pedestals (no base included), boxwood capstan, rudder pintles, cast ship’s wheel, three launch boats etc. The latter are realistically thin and made from cream coloured resin. These will need a gentle wash in some soapy water to remove any mould release agents that may be lingering on their surfaces (although mine look very clean). There is a casting block on the lower keel, and this will need to be gently sawn away and cleaned up. This is standard practice for resin. As always, wear a mask when sanding resin parts. The 3D-printed figurehead, created by scanning the surviving one from the real ship, has a series of connection points what will need to be trimmed off and cleaned up. Again, this is normal for such parts. 









 
Components tray #2

Another plastic tray chock-full of detail goodies for your model. In here we have numerous packets of rigging blocks and various sized deadeyes with chain plates, launch davits, steel pins for first planking (remember to remove these before sanding!), brass belaying pins (casting point needs removing), turned brass cannon x 16, anchor set with wooden stocks and metal hoops, parral beads, metal cleats, copper eyelets, ships bell etc. Rigging block quality is very good and the drilled holes are nice and clean. 








 
Rigging

A single pack of rigging cord is included, consisting of two natural threads, one bleached, and one black. These look high quality with no fuzziness present on my example. 
 
Flags

Two flags are included, printed on paper. Printing quality is very good. You will need to possibly dampen these when assembled and form them into a natural sag that you would expect to see. 
 
Paperwork


 
Several sheets of A4 paper are included, listing all of the kit parts by name and quantity included. More paper is supplied, forming the kit’s written instruction manual. No photos are given here, but they are unnecessary anyway as all illustration regarding assembly details, are supplied on the plan set. The English is clear and easy to understand.
 
Plans

SIX sheets of plans are included, printed at 1:1 so you can take measurements straight from them. Sheet 1 shows two profiles of the hull in profile form, depicting skeletal structure and illustrations showing the double-plank nature of the hull. Measurements are also supplied for gun port spacings etc. A very clear, easy to understand drawing.

Sheet 2 shows the model in plan elevation with a montage of small illustrations depicting construction and details. Easy part number reference is supplied for various fittings.


Sheet 3 & 4 concern the construction of the masts and bowsprit


Sheet 5 illustrates yard construction and some elements of rigging, whilst the last sheet is purely for rigging.
 
Conclusion
This is an ambitious project for Navarino Models and is the first fighting ship of this period that they now have on their catalogue. For a Greek, and a ship enthusiast, it was a subject that Navarino’s owner, Babis, simply couldn’t ignore, and he’s done a wonderful job of recreating it in 1:50 for us. The whole package is a delight to see, from the quite extravagant but unique packaging, through to the use of the more expensive birch play for parts. Strip wood is also high quality and the fittings are well above average too. The only small niggle for me is perhaps the use of ply on the gun carts and channels, instead of solid wood, and the timber boats parts need some clean up. It’s by no means a deal breaker at all though as this is a well thought out release of a subject that I’ve never seen in kit form before. This is a bonny brig and quite a size when built too. If either historically significant vessels or Mediterranean ships are your thing, then give this kit a look over! Definitely a very different subject to tackle.
 
My sincere thanks to Navarino Models for the kit you see reviewed here for Model Ship World. To purchase directly, click the link at the top of this article. 
 
 

 
 
 

Hope everything arrives safely!  Where is your new home Martin, I'm in Simsbury...not too far, but there again, nothing is in CT 🙂

Hello Everybody -- For these past 6 months, I've started on some phase or other of the Fly only to realize I had packed away the tools I needed to get it done.  I put together a batch of Syren's deadeyes, and used the sanding contraption to round them off, but then saw I had no equipment to solder the chainplates.  I started on the masts and spars, and tried out different species of wood, ultimately ending up with the spruce that I used for the Rattlesnake.  But then I only had stock long enough to cut 2 masts.  And then packing took over.
 
We bit the bullet and bought a house in NW Connecticut, having sold our house here much faster than we had imagined possible.  I finished my last two woodworking projects (a blanket chest for my sister out of walnut, and a credenza for Mrs W out of white oak), then used my full scale tools for one final task, that of packing the two models I'll be able to take with me.  Here's the process, based on Toni's sage advice.
 

 
Here's the old Rattlesnake perched on a piece of pegboard, to which I've screwed some pieces of scrap that will hold the sides.  The frame is the white oak credenza (minus the drawer pulls, which I've roughed out, and will have to finish carving in CT).
 

 
Here you can see the back of the box that will encase the model.
 
And here's the fully encased model:
 

Next up is the Fly, which will be easier, since it's unmasted and will take a smaller box.  It isn't on its final base yet, so I used a piece of one-by pine that I had lying around the workshop:
 

 
The process is just the same as before, but with a smaller box, and with some baltic birch 1/4 inch ply I wanted to use up:
 

 
And here's the last glimpse before getting to my new boatyard:
 

 
The only problem now is that with no modelling to do, and no furniture or carving projects going, I can only twiddle my thumbs till we start the drive.  I might have to take up beer-drinking.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin
 
 

Hello and many thanks for your likes,
 
it is done, all cannons are ready! Here they are all together at the gun deck, or at least there carriages.

And that they are



I have one question to an administrator. Did you change there something with the likes? They did't turn up in my notifications. There are now only the comments listed. The last time I have much trouble to open this site, I think because of too much traffic when in the US starts the day now in the Corona time. So some times I shut down this site when it was't open correctly. It takes sometimes up to 10 minutes with a traffic of 1-5 KB/s. 🤨 Many thanks in advance 

Hello and many thanks for your likes and comments.
 
today I finished the 12 pdr's. Because the deck is't ready, I can't install there barrels. But the two extra guns are ready for display.
Now only the dozen 6 pdr's are left. 😃 

And that are the carriages for the guns of the ship. That was a lot more work than expected. 

Hello,
and many thanks for your likes and nice comments. That encourage me a little more to build all these tiny little eye- and ring bolts. 
 
It is done, the gun deck is fitted with cannons. Next I will build all the other cannons more or less ready. Then all cannons could go back into there garage and wait until there permanent installation. 

2nd planking done and sanded.
Plan is to maybe use Osmo oil wax. Special product for exotic woods that would give constant “wet” look.
Will make some samples first.

Im after the sharpness and contrast that MK kits have due to laser cut pieces

Range finders added to the bridge 

One word describes the bridge; fiddly 

I think I’ll try doing a light coat of grey wash through my airbrush and see if that gives it abit more life and abit less yellow.
 
I forgot to add some ladders to my rear main gun and in putting them on noticed that the plans show some bits on the back and front that aren’t mentioned anywhere else so gave building them a go.





Its not much but I think it adds a bit to the guns, quite happy how they turned out and enjoy adding extra details from scratch like this.

More diversions
 
Having finished the deck and looking ahead in the manual, I realised there are literally hundreds more components needed to complete the hull - ring bolts, pin racks, swivel guns and so on. I'd already concluded after trying to blacken the PE components on the cannon that there are too many small items to use treatments like Brass Black with any success. Unless you do them in very small batches which would take forever. Which leaves painting. Using a brush either puts too much paint on or takes a long time or both, so I've decided to have a go at airbrushing. I've never used an airbrush, but looking at other people's logs it's clearly a useful technique to have. I've been researching on the forum and the Web more generally, and I've decided to go cheap initially, at least until I've learnt the basics. In another topic I saw that Glenn uses a Badger airbrush, a brand that seems to get good reviews so I'll probably go for that, together with a decent compressor. Watch this space. 
 
The belaying pin racks are laser cut from 1.5mm pearwood, and in the manual they're shown painted red to match the bulwarks. I thought I'd go off piste again and make my own out of spare boxwood. Cutting them out and drilling the holes probably took little longer than sanding the laser char and painting the supplied racks. I'm mentioning it partly because it's a good way to illustrate another useful feature of milling machines - the ability to drill very accurate, precisely positioned holes. The drill bit here is 0.6mm and the holes exactly 3.4mm apart:

Here's the first one fitted:

Back to the garden for a spot of sunbathing, I think.
 
Derek

Another little diversion this morning.
 
I was looking to fit the boarding steps that go both sides of the hull. These come as laser-etched components on a 1mm sheet of pearwood.

Nothing wrong with them, but as some will be unpainted I'd prefer them to match the boxwood hull. I decided to use the supplied steps in the six positions that will be painted (on the wales and cap rail), but make eight of my own for the bare ones. I used the salami slicing method, which has worked for me in the past for things like gun carriages, and thought others might be interested in the technique.
 
The steps are 12.5mm wide by 2.3 mm deep, so I started by trimming a boxwood offcut to 12.5mm, then reducing part of it to 2.3mm on the bigger of my two mills (technically it's a mini-mill, but it's big enough for me).

Next I milled two 3.0 X 0.6mm grooves on my Proxxon micro mill. 

Incidentally, I sometimes see adverse comments about Proxxon tools on the forum. These usually take the form of "they're too expensive" or more commonly "they're not Bridgeport/Sherline/etc therefore they must be rubbish". All I can say is, look at the superlative quality of the work of people like Marsalv and Blue Ensign who use these tools extensively. Rant over.
 
After rounding off the corners with a file I had the profile I wanted:

Well, not quite. I realised after the event that I hadn't mounted the wood in the vice quite square so the grooves are at a slight angle. To be honest it won't show, but it illustrates that all tools are only as good as the numpty using them.
 
Next it was back to the Byrnes saw to do the salami slicing. I set up a stop on the fence so that I could do repeat cuts, and it took less than a minute to do all eight steps.
 
Here they are fitted and painted/shellaced (apologies for the blurry picture):

Another method that would have worked equally well (and wasted less wood) is to start with 1mm strips of boxwood, cut eight pieces each 12.5mm X 2.3mm and glue them together into a solid block (like a loaf of bread with PVA between each pair of slices). Make the grooves and round the corners using whatever method suits - for example using a table saw to make the grooves. Then soak the block in denatured alcohol to loosen the glue. I think I first found this method in The Fully Framed Model and used it to make parrels. As I say, this method works fine but I find it messier.
 
Hope you enjoyed the step-by-step guide (groan!).
 
Derek
 

Havent posted anything for a while.
 
Just moved to new apartment so hands have been full.
 
2nd planking allmost done-some fillers missing. Like the walnut look. Sanding will clear out the errors that are cause by novoce techniques. Hoped this to be super planking but i guess now yet. That is 2nd real planking after Terror. I dont count Polotsk as those was precut.
 
Deck planking done. Used limewood that was given as replacement wood from Dockyard Models by Jotika. Happy with lime when quality is good but to be honest provided Caldercraft replacement lime isnt so good. Sanding still to come.
 
Didnt cut opening in deck, instead i will paint them black.
 
Color scheme will probably be same as Thunders. All natural beaides some parts will be black.
 
As i dont like sanding so much i got muself Proxxon pen sander. Lets see how that works on deck as near the rail its hard to sand.
 

The extension to the standard does run up in a similar curve to the lower rail. It extends right up to the top of the hair bracket scroll. Behind the figure there are three solid layers; the two hair brackets on the outside sandwiching the extension piece. See my sketch superimposed on your drawing as an approximation.

The Ole Lady's Ghost  -
 
OC.

Post 5


 
First planking


 
A word about my approach to planking this hull.


 
The proposed method of first planking works fairly well for a first layer as it will ultimately be covered up, but it won’t tell you anything about how to properly plank a hull, or produce the best result with the second planking.


 
Planking should be relatively straightforward on this hull shape, and for the purposes of this first planking I took a partial tick strip and edge bending approach, which should result in a hull completed without the need to use stealers.


 
I did mark off the plank widths at each bulkhead as a guide but effectively use only bulkheads 1 and 11 for the purposes of the taper.

By using this approach I can see how the shape of the planks develop as I proceed which will be of benefit when I apply the more important Pearwood layer.


 
This will be the first model I have built where the stem, stern, and keel are not in place, before I start planking which seems a little strange to me, but I’ll run with it.


 
The Limewood planks do readily bend around this hull, but to take a little fight out of them I do soak before temporarily fitting, and applying hot air on max temp.

They are then glue, pinned, and clamped.


 
I fitted the first three planks without tapering, they followed the line of the bulwark with a gentle edge bend, and without recourse to water or heat.
 


5236 I then fitted the Garboard plank.

This is a simple affair with a full plank run along the keel line, a benefit of the simple hull shape. No concerns about where to terminate or shape it at the bow end.



 
The remaining space at midships (bulkhead 6) is 9 strakes of 5mm strip.

As I work down the hull I paint the inside of the hull planking with slightly diluted pva, this strengthens the planking joins and helps reduce the risk of a sprung plank. This is only possible down to strake six as the gap is then too narrow.


 
After the first three strakes the planks required tapering at both ends, as the hull is virtually the same shape at both stem and stern. These are quite long tapers.



5237(2)
I found that a degree of edge bend, imparted by water/heat, was required from around bulkhead 8 towards the stern, but from midships to the stem the tapered plank followed the line with little resistance.



5281(2)
With six strakes fitted from the top, I return to add a strake above the Garboard, and then return to planking from the top.



 
The idea is that as I am using only single width planks, any remaining gap for the final plank that requires spiling will appear on the underside of the hull.



5284(2)
When I came to plank 7 down from the bulwark, some edge bending both forward and aft was required.



5286
This is the shape required. The edge bend is downwards which appears counter intuitive when you look at the upward sweep of the planking.



5288
Nearing completion of the first planking.


 
One of the drawbacks with kits is that they generally only supply one width of planking for the hull. In a properly planked hull there would be wider planks particularly for the Garboard, and for the plank runs towards the stern.


5292(2)
With two strakes to go there is an annoying 2mm wide gap at midships, not entirely unexpected, and simply requires a wider board to suit.


 
I fitted one more supplied strip, down from the top.


5294(2)
This one needed the full treatment with tapering both ends, edge bending, and a twist at both ends to lie against the keel. leaving a slightly wider plank to complete.
 


5299
The final two planks will require to be spiled.

 

5302(2)
I use Tamiya tape to give me a template to work to.


 
In the absence of a wider limewood strip I cut the final spiled planks from some 1mm Boxwood sheet. It is then simply a matter of scrape and try, until the plank fits.


5313
 
 
First planking completed, it will now be sanded and scraped smooth, with hopefully minimal filler required.


 
 
B.E.


 
29/05/2020

Thanks everyone for the kind comments and likes. I wish I had an update, but things are on a bit of a pause while waiting for parts (and the recent spell of unseasonably hot weather!). 
 
About the only thing I’ve received from Walthers was a customer satisfaction survey in my e-mail. For giggles I decided to go through it.
 
The first question:
“Have you received your order? Y/N“
 
Of course I clicked “No”
 
”Thank you for your feedback, we’ll contact you again in a few weeks”

*blink*
*blink*
Bwahahaha 😝

I think I’ve been stuck at home too long! 🤪
 
Andy