Beef Wellington

Thanks Jim. 
 
Next are the mast bitts. It is time consuming due to the sending off the char and processing the head and sheaves. It is very small so fun work. 2 already prepared, 2 more to go. 

 

Status :
beginning the port side deck edge....
 
Nils
 
 
 

the brass strips (0,6 x 3 mm) are fastened to the short side deck beams with pins, before they are securely glued in
 

the side beams will be trimmed off  on the inward side to the working cockpit later on
 

a "footrail"  will be fastened to the brass stips
 

 
 
 
 
 

Following everyone's advice  and encouragement, I embarked on the quarter badges, and have effectively completed them.
 
I began by figuring out the placement, setting a tracing from the NMM plans where the badge would go.
 
With that, I cut the pieces, again using tracings from the plans:
 

 
In hindsight, I would have saved myself lots of headaches if I'd made the Upper Finishing first, and then cut the Upper Stool to fit it, rather than vice versa.  Getting a tight fit between the stool & the finishing took half a dozen tries, because any deviation along the depth of the bell portion set the Finishing askew.
 
At any rate, after getting the upper & lower stools in place, the next step was the munions and lights:
 

 
Next I cut out the stools, once again by tracing the shape from the plans then gluing the tracing onto the stock and cutting it with the jeweller's saw (I gave away my scroll saw about 6 weeks ago and then came across an intriguing carving project that made me want it back  ).  Here you can see that I've glued the piece to a backing board that I used to shape it with chisels and files:
 

 
In the end, this is where I ended up (this photo is of the port version, since it's the one I've actually finished):
 

 
As for the decorations, well, I tried afixing some ribs in various configurations, but they all looked too big and clumsy.  So I'm going plain here, even, at least for now, leaving off the decorative scrolls that go on either side.
 
There's also the problem that I lost the pieces of the  molded rail that I pulled off, and the scraper that I used to cut the molding broke.  The chances of making another scraper that will fit the pattern at least closely are slim, but I'll give it a go.
 
Thanks to everyone who encouraged me to take on the challenge of this piece.  I learned quite a bit from doing it.
 
Cheers,
 
Martin
 
 
 
 

24
QQ视频20190824101833.mp4

Love the detail that you have on the inner bulwark Paul.

Wow, you really have your work cut out for you with your Caldercraft selection.  As you point out, this is probably one of the older 'modern' kits out there so there are plenty of opportunities to improve one the kit out of the box as you see fit.  The Artois class really are one of the best looking ship types available in a model (IMHO!).  Look forward to seeing you start, there is quite the 'Diana' club right now on MSW so plenty of other builds to get pointers from.
 
Cheers

No comment needed!  👍  You must be happy you restarted.

Love the detail that you have on the inner bulwark Paul.

Nice job on the carvings Michael.  The colour of the cherry looks vey nice indeed.

Love the detail that you have on the inner bulwark Paul.

Thanks for visiting and all the likes.  
 
Fairing the frames mostly went fine.  I did have one frame break off and the tip that meets the keel mysteriously vanished/teleported somewhere so I had to make a small wedge replacement so the frame could meet the keel.  It came out fine after some shaping and sanding.  Kinda worried it would not be strong enough but it seems to be doing fine.
 
Wipe on poly changes the look quite a bit.  I like it.
 

I was able to take a nice vacation with my son when we went with the scouts on a nine day white water rafting trip. Since that time I’ve been working quite a bit. I do work quite a bit of nights and sometimes I have some downtime in the morning. So I decided to bring this along to practice a little carving. This was done just to practice. I have another set of these for a final go around. Each little bit I do I learn a little bit more.  This was done only within an 11 blade. I didn’t bring any sandpaper so I could not round off the edges yet but at least now I’m starting to separate out each of the leaves and the thorns a little bit better than my first attempts. The following two pictures are the exact same piece at the exact same time the first one is when it is flat on the table and the second one is when it is sitting upright.  It is interesting how the different lighting really makes the details change. 
 

 

 
 Sorry about the blurry pictures but it was the best I can get my phone to do

The disc sander is one of my most used tools too.  It was a big game changer for me.

This is probably the best advice.  

Bit of a milestone I think after all these years, caprail going on the quarterdeck and last quarterdeck cannon finished

Bonet housing for the engine....
the port side has a large outcut, an additional hinged hatch cover will be on top, so the engine will not be hidden...
 
Nils

 
 

 
 

 

 
 

 
 

Bonnet with upper hatch and air ventilation blinds
 

little round ball at the end of the clutch lever, for better grip
 
 
 

Many thanks to Pete and Mark,
and to all who clicked the "like" Button...
 
today I made the hand-bilge pump, which discharges into the centerboard case, and the upper sill of the centerboard case
 
Nils

 
 
 
 

Thank you Pete,
Yes there will be several cuts, also in the cabin area giving view to the whole interior. Thanks again for your link to the screw heads, great idea I think....
 
Nils

bolts holding the gear housing to the machine block, and silicone rubber dampening pads
 

slicing off the round heads with hexogonal sockets
 

exhaust to outside (well above waterline)
 

screws for exhaust tube flange to cylinder 
 
 

not much progress this tme..
the engine is complete and the sockets for main- and aft mast set in place
 
Nils
 

 
 

the mesh fish boxes have been chemicaly blackened
 

the V-belts are from sealings for wrist watch covers
 

 
 

added an oil dipstick
 
 
 

upper right corner : day fuel tank ca. 20 Liter

Way too perfect.... 😉
 
Yves

Thanks Vane. I think you overestimate my skills  
 
After a fairly long break over the summer, with Prince of Wales finished, it's time to un-stall this project and get it moving again. 
 
Things that need doing:
Finish the channels on the port side (dead-eyes, strops, chain plates, etc.. ) (Starboard is complete) Work out how to create the open rail on the quarterdeck. Move on with the beakhead rails. These have all proved to be head-scratchers for me, hence the tentative progress. But I think yesterday I made real progress.
 
Rails:
 
Before I went away I glued a 1.5mm square strip of walnut down the centre of the top of the quarterdeck rail. I cut sections out of this for the gunports and to 3mm of each side. The uprights will sit here. Now, I glued a 1.5mm square strip of walnut down the outside (pre-painted to avoid a nightmare cutting in later). 4mm maple was used for the uprights, which was cut to size using the attached diagram.
 
Openrails.pdf (an A3 diagram)
 

Progress so far is encouraging. 

The top rail is only dry-fitted to get an idea of the height and how I might add this part. (probably a variation of how I did it at the bottom).
 

 
The channels are also coming on. Not much to show here as the process is exactly the same as for the starboard side.
 

Wow, you really have your work cut out for you with your Caldercraft selection.  As you point out, this is probably one of the older 'modern' kits out there so there are plenty of opportunities to improve one the kit out of the box as you see fit.  The Artois class really are one of the best looking ship types available in a model (IMHO!).  Look forward to seeing you start, there is quite the 'Diana' club right now on MSW so plenty of other builds to get pointers from.
 
Cheers

Post 16
Planking below the wale.
So time to get to it.
For the clinker planking the hull will need to be inverted during the whole process.

1860
First a new support base is cobbled together to hold the hull in position.
 
Referring to the Alert book there is a mid ship section drawing showing the clinker boards, conveniently at 1:64 scale.

1886(2)
I am using 0.7mm thick Boxwood strip and I start with an 8mm wide (midpoint) Garboard plank. Marked on this is a 2mm overlap for the next strake up.
 
The first task is to re-mark the bulkhead positions on the hull and fix the Garboard plank.

1885
I don't use ca for second layer planking preferring to continue with a good quality pva.

1887(2)
In the case of the Garboard plank the upper edge is held down using the heads of the provided steel pins.
 

1890

1888
Moving onto the adjacent plank to the Garboard the first thing I discover is that the 0.7mm strip at 6mm width is not conducive  to an edge bend at the degree required at the bow. It is too thin and buckles rather than bends.

1892
The answer is to take a pattern and cut it out of some thin Boxwood sheet. Hopefully this is an issue where only severe bends are required.

1899
These second planks are attached using fine brass pins along the bottom edge, and the heads of the steel pins to secure the top edge. (The hull is inverted remember)

1905

1903
I have not cut a rebate or a chamfer on the plank edges to  accommodate the lap, they are too thin for that. The laps will be fined down to suit later.
 
So that's the start of the clinkering business.
With the first two planks in place I can now try to work out the run of the following strakes. Between the wale and the overlap on the Garboard plank, there is 72mm at mid point.
Using 6mm planking with a net 2mm overlap results in 18 strakes of net 4mm planks.
 
B.E.
22/08/2019

I did say this was a voyage of discovery.  I have finished the last bits of upper planking, carved the 10mm hole into which the bowsprit will seat and completed he second layer onto the stern counter area.  The next task was to mark the waterline.  In doing so I realised two things: the gunwale - which looks good - isn't entirely parallel and thus when I drew the waterline using a mounted pencil, it looked odd but I can tweak to get the visual aesthetics right.  The major snag was that the walnut planking around the stern area, i.e. below the boxwood and the area to be covered by cooper tiles, was too high and would show above the waterline! I had to do a few adjustments to remove some walnut and replank in boxwood.  I think this will suffice.  I did mark a waterline before second planking but obviously didn't connect thus...another error.  
 
The only upside is that I will have to make another one to prove to myself that these mistakes are one offs.
 
Peter
  

Continuation on stunsail boom irons...
 
Soldering with Cyanoacrylate... 😀