Beef Wellington

Well I'm back on track at least after the destruction, painful, but glad its behind me....
 
The bigger channels are completed now and ready to be glued into position, I'll be leaving the attachment of the smaller channels for the topmast backstays until after the quarterdeck is glued into position.  A final finish has been put on the hull, which means that I can now start to put some of the detailing in place in conjunction with fitting the chains.  There seem to be a number of position where space will be tight, so fingers crossed previous planning works out.
 
For reference, I've marked out the expected position of the quarterdeck ports (and the previous template position with a dotted line) but will not be cutting these out until the quarterdeck is in place.  This shows them in relation to the actual position of the deadeyes, with a bit of imagination (I used string and a mock up of the masts) its clear that the previous port locations would be obscured (the second and third from the stern are the tricky ones).  Even though not obscured, the 4th port from the rear was moved so the port separation is equalized as much as possible.  My advice to anyone modifying the kit (or even building from the box) is to leave the positioning and cutting out of any these quarterdeck ports until after the final position of the deadeyes is known.
 
Unfortunately, the PE hinges supplied in the kit are too small and dimension, and too bulky, for the sizes of the sweep/airing ports estimated from the AOTS plans.  Luckily I had purchased a PE set for (I think!) the HMS Grenado way back and it contains some useable hinges.  These smaller PE sets are pretty reasonably priced, and I've found can be handy to have as they contain a multitude of potentially useful fittings (hooks etc.) which can be used to supplement the older 'bare bones' CC kit PE sets.
 
These were given a few coats of paint to bulk them up a bit as although they are theoretically the same scale, the ports on Grenado are of smaller dimension.  Placement on the airing ports proved a little challenging due to the elevated profile of the black-strake that runs through these. 
 

Well I'm back on track at least after the destruction, painful, but glad its behind me....
 
The bigger channels are completed now and ready to be glued into position, I'll be leaving the attachment of the smaller channels for the topmast backstays until after the quarterdeck is glued into position.  A final finish has been put on the hull, which means that I can now start to put some of the detailing in place in conjunction with fitting the chains.  There seem to be a number of position where space will be tight, so fingers crossed previous planning works out.
 
For reference, I've marked out the expected position of the quarterdeck ports (and the previous template position with a dotted line) but will not be cutting these out until the quarterdeck is in place.  This shows them in relation to the actual position of the deadeyes, with a bit of imagination (I used string and a mock up of the masts) its clear that the previous port locations would be obscured (the second and third from the stern are the tricky ones).  Even though not obscured, the 4th port from the rear was moved so the port separation is equalized as much as possible.  My advice to anyone modifying the kit (or even building from the box) is to leave the positioning and cutting out of any these quarterdeck ports until after the final position of the deadeyes is known.
 
Unfortunately, the PE hinges supplied in the kit are too small and dimension, and too bulky, for the sizes of the sweep/airing ports estimated from the AOTS plans.  Luckily I had purchased a PE set for (I think!) the HMS Grenado way back and it contains some useable hinges.  These smaller PE sets are pretty reasonably priced, and I've found can be handy to have as they contain a multitude of potentially useful fittings (hooks etc.) which can be used to supplement the older 'bare bones' CC kit PE sets.
 
These were given a few coats of paint to bulk them up a bit as although they are theoretically the same scale, the ports on Grenado are of smaller dimension.  Placement on the airing ports proved a little challenging due to the elevated profile of the black-strake that runs through these. 
 

Well I'm back on track at least after the destruction, painful, but glad its behind me....
 
The bigger channels are completed now and ready to be glued into position, I'll be leaving the attachment of the smaller channels for the topmast backstays until after the quarterdeck is glued into position.  A final finish has been put on the hull, which means that I can now start to put some of the detailing in place in conjunction with fitting the chains.  There seem to be a number of position where space will be tight, so fingers crossed previous planning works out.
 
For reference, I've marked out the expected position of the quarterdeck ports (and the previous template position with a dotted line) but will not be cutting these out until the quarterdeck is in place.  This shows them in relation to the actual position of the deadeyes, with a bit of imagination (I used string and a mock up of the masts) its clear that the previous port locations would be obscured (the second and third from the stern are the tricky ones).  Even though not obscured, the 4th port from the rear was moved so the port separation is equalized as much as possible.  My advice to anyone modifying the kit (or even building from the box) is to leave the positioning and cutting out of any these quarterdeck ports until after the final position of the deadeyes is known.
 
Unfortunately, the PE hinges supplied in the kit are too small and dimension, and too bulky, for the sizes of the sweep/airing ports estimated from the AOTS plans.  Luckily I had purchased a PE set for (I think!) the HMS Grenado way back and it contains some useable hinges.  These smaller PE sets are pretty reasonably priced, and I've found can be handy to have as they contain a multitude of potentially useful fittings (hooks etc.) which can be used to supplement the older 'bare bones' CC kit PE sets.
 
These were given a few coats of paint to bulk them up a bit as although they are theoretically the same scale, the ports on Grenado are of smaller dimension.  Placement on the airing ports proved a little challenging due to the elevated profile of the black-strake that runs through these. 
 

Well I'm back on track at least after the destruction, painful, but glad its behind me....
 
The bigger channels are completed now and ready to be glued into position, I'll be leaving the attachment of the smaller channels for the topmast backstays until after the quarterdeck is glued into position.  A final finish has been put on the hull, which means that I can now start to put some of the detailing in place in conjunction with fitting the chains.  There seem to be a number of position where space will be tight, so fingers crossed previous planning works out.
 
For reference, I've marked out the expected position of the quarterdeck ports (and the previous template position with a dotted line) but will not be cutting these out until the quarterdeck is in place.  This shows them in relation to the actual position of the deadeyes, with a bit of imagination (I used string and a mock up of the masts) its clear that the previous port locations would be obscured (the second and third from the stern are the tricky ones).  Even though not obscured, the 4th port from the rear was moved so the port separation is equalized as much as possible.  My advice to anyone modifying the kit (or even building from the box) is to leave the positioning and cutting out of any these quarterdeck ports until after the final position of the deadeyes is known.
 
Unfortunately, the PE hinges supplied in the kit are too small and dimension, and too bulky, for the sizes of the sweep/airing ports estimated from the AOTS plans.  Luckily I had purchased a PE set for (I think!) the HMS Grenado way back and it contains some useable hinges.  These smaller PE sets are pretty reasonably priced, and I've found can be handy to have as they contain a multitude of potentially useful fittings (hooks etc.) which can be used to supplement the older 'bare bones' CC kit PE sets.
 
These were given a few coats of paint to bulk them up a bit as although they are theoretically the same scale, the ports on Grenado are of smaller dimension.  Placement on the airing ports proved a little challenging due to the elevated profile of the black-strake that runs through these. 
 

Will definitely be following along on this, love the pre-Dreadnaughts.  Looking at her beside the Yamato without all the extraneous deck fittings and armament in picture above shows a lot of resemblance to form U-boats and later submarines.

Will definitely be following along on this, love the pre-Dreadnaughts.  Looking at her beside the Yamato without all the extraneous deck fittings and armament in picture above shows a lot of resemblance to form U-boats and later submarines.

Jason, it had been even excellent work which you didn't like and demolish... 😨

Your 'destruction' seems to have been very successful mate; looks good.  You got a very nice profile onto the leading edges of those channels too, they look very good.
 
cheers
 
Pat

i quess that at the end of their life no two hulls resembled the original plans for the class, 

You're making me wonder whether my qd ports are in the right places now.... but I think I used the NMM plans so hopefully we're good. I'll have to check.
 
That's a neat solution with the isopropyl. I'm sure you'll do a great job of the rework and it will be impossible to tell you needed to once it's done. 

Its amazing what it can take to rectify a problem  - but so pleased for you that you got it sorted.
 
OC.

Hull together. It’s quite a big ship, the centre deck piece has a very hard time sitting flush as the side cannons throw off the balance and there are a few gaps which seem unavoidable and will require filling. 

Lovely planking BE, can only look even better when sanded down.  Nice work on the garboard planks, look tricky to shape, and I can see the advantage of the having the upper planking in place to help provide perspective.

Yes, very nice companion cover BE, the subtle plank edge highlighting looks just right - if I had a vote, I'd vote to keep it natural, but could be swayed either way depending on how you are planning to finish the coamings to get a nice contrast.  

Hi Stergios, I followed the same principle for the other stays.  i.e. where a pair is possible on each side, these were looped and seized around the mast top.  Where a single is necessary, a false splice was made to make a loop to go over the mast top.

Yes, very nice companion cover BE, the subtle plank edge highlighting looks just right - if I had a vote, I'd vote to keep it natural, but could be swayed either way depending on how you are planning to finish the coamings to get a nice contrast.  

beautiful work on the companionway B.E.
 
and the cutter`s hull and its planking is looking wonderful.....
 
Nils

Post 46
Faffing with fittings part 2.
I now turn my attention to the Companionway.
This is an interesting little project particularly when choosing to try and make the doors open and the lid hinge back to reveal something of the interior.

3588
A jig was necessary to keep the sections square and in place during gluing.
For construction I used 1/32" x 3/16" strips for the boarding, and 5/32" strips for the coamings.

3725
 Internal framing was added to stiffen the construction. The rear half of the lid was glued in place and the forward half hinged to fold back.

3727
It proved a testy business to make tiny hinges that would both work and have at least a nod towards looking like the real thing.
Of course all of this makes not one jot of real difference to the model, but I derive a small personal pleasure from it, even if just knowing it's there. ☺️

3743
Completing the arrangement also required a ladder down to the lower deck.

3705

3706

3758
Mildly curious why the access doors are facing aft, most of the examples I've seen  they are either facing forward or to Starboard.

3751

3752
I haven't made my mind up yet whether to paint or poly wipe so for the present I will leave it in its  bare wood state.
Either way  it will need some final finishing before gluing into place.
 
Onto the Skylight.
 
B.E.
17/10/2018
 

Good morning.

Good morning.

Good morning.

Alright, so after all of that tedious cutting out, I can begin placing the frieze lattice.
 

Please bear in mind that this seeming, non-sensical gap will eventually be bridged by the upper finishing of the quarter gallery.  In the meantime, I have left the ends overlong to allow for cutting in.  Also, the edges of the frieze lattice may look a little ragged, but that’s just squeeze-out from the styrene cement, which will later be scraped away.  These pieces are really welded on, now; I degreased the upper bulwarks and I give the backs of the frieze segments a light sanding before glue.
 
I must have spent an hour checking and re-checking my starting point in order to be sure I allowed the propper space for the quarter gallery, but also in an effort to optimize my ornamental layout, so that I didn’t have too many oddly cut away shells or fleur-de-lis.  There will be the odd one, here and there, but not many.
 
Until now, I wasn’t really sure just how accurately I had measured and drawn the upper bulwarks and all of their piercings; I did pretty well, I think, to come +/- a light sixteenth.  There was enough latitude to shift the whole layout left or right, in order to make the best of these discrepancies.
 
So, more to come later. Thanks for looking in 😀

The stern came together very well and seems you've got the tricky alignment just right with the various curvatures of the rails, looks very pleasing...and well done for getting the coppering done, certainly not one of the most interesting or diverse activities but looking very good.  Will be following from here on if I may.

Looking good Mike - I like this stage of a build...so much potential to look forward to.....and few regrets or mistakes!

Yes, it should.  I don't think the step should be quite so pronounced, and the right stepped section should thin gradually as well.  I think you're clearer than the plans at this point so just ignore them!