Beef Wellington

Mike - I think its a view from above, and it looks to be correct.  The widest part is where the bowsprit sits, and the thinner part is the top of the knee of the stem.  The reason for the jump rather than smooth transition is that it accounts for the difference in width between those two points.  Hard to describe, but clear in my mind :-)
 
Nice work BTW, good to see some progress.

Hi Mike, I'd really suggest you do a little research before you start     I think your approach to build the kit following the plans and your heart is definitely the way to go, people may have opinions but nothing can be proven.  Sure this will build up into a beautiful model.  Definitely following this one.  

If GBP100 decrease by 50%, (i.e. $50), it will need to increase by 100$ (i.e. $50) to get back to same price.  Prices in the EU by law must include VAT, which is different to the US and possibly other places where any associated taxes are added afterwards to quoted prices
 
Using a simplistic example, assume a site quoted cost of GBP120 including VAT (GBP100 cost plus GBP20 VAT@20%), you need to reduce the quoted price of GBP 120 by 16.67% (i.e. ~GBP20 given rounding) to get the price excluding VAT of GBP 100.
 
 

Cheers Guys for the 'likes' and comments.
Post 45
Faffing with fittings.
A while ago I decided that the Holly decking planks I had originally ordered were just too pale for my taste, so  I ordered replacement Boxwood strips.
Pity I forgot to include a sheet of 3/64 thick stuff in the order to cut out the bow area of the Margin planks.
I have put a further supplementary order for some 3/64" Boxwood sheet and strip, but in the meantime I will have a go at the gratings.
Chuck's little gratings kits work a treat, and result in a nicely curved fine grating that reflects the shape of the originals.
Starting with the Bread Room scuttle I continued to complete the set of three.
Gratings are one thing, the coamings and head ledges entirely another.
These are scratch built from 3/32" sheet.
The only size reference for the height of the coamings is on the plan I worked on a 6mm depth from the false deck.  The Head ledges I made slightly higher to allow for forming the round.

4436
As suggested by Chuck I formed the frame around the grating to get a good fit. Once formed I inserted 1/16" strip around the inside to support the grating. This also has the effect of stiffening up the fame and reduces the risk of pulling it out of square.

4437
Even so during final finishing I glued a grating sized block to my jig board to hold the framing in place.

4446
Sanding the Head Ledges.

3584(2)
The finished coamings sit 5mm above the false deck.

3554
Same procedure for the Fore Hatch.
Galley Flue scuttle
I cut the base from some 3/32"  Castello sheet. From the plans  I calculated a base 12 x 16mm.
For the coamings I cut a 3.5mm width strip from a 1/16th thick sheet.
I cut the hole for the flue out and boarded around it with some thin Boxwood planking.

3571
The Flue pipe was then added.

3579

3580

3584

3585
Next up the Companionway and the Skylight.
B.E.
13/10/2018
 
ps. Thank you Chuck, received my 3/64"  Boxwood sheet, and 1/4" wide strips for the margin planks this morning, - six days order to door, excellent service.👍
 

The stern came together very well and seems you've got the tricky alignment just right with the various curvatures of the rails, looks very pleasing...and well done for getting the coppering done, certainly not one of the most interesting or diverse activities but looking very good.  Will be following from here on if I may.

I have been working on a little project lately, something I've wanted to do for years, making my own boat.
It's an Iain Oughtred design, Tammie Norrie, a 4.5mtr (15 foot) clinker sailing dinghy.
 
I'm really enjoying using full sized hand tools, especially the planes but the lessons learned in ship modelling have been a huge help.

The stern came together very well and seems you've got the tricky alignment just right with the various curvatures of the rails, looks very pleasing...and well done for getting the coppering done, certainly not one of the most interesting or diverse activities but looking very good.  Will be following from here on if I may.

Gunports cut out and lined using tube method that Hartmut on another forum used - I just couldn't get walnut lining to stick to 1.5mm of strip wood with out using CA (and I'm allergic to that).  The tube method worked a treat.  Now preparing hull for second planking.
 
I've also added some photos of my previous completion - HMS Victory 1:100 by Del Prado. As you can see it's not a faithful representation as I liked the wooden finish with metal work on this one.
Photos - Victory completed autumn 2017.
Photo - Gunport lining with tube method.
Photo - Getting ready for 2nd planking (without superglue!!)
  
 

Finally that's the hull coppered.  As you can see the coppering highlighted a couple of defects in my planking at the stern leaving a bit of ridge to get around.  Next ship I'll rabit the keel first before assembly of the main structure. One learns!
 
The Evo 'serious glue' worked out ok.  It left a few glue marks on the copper which I think a white spirit wash and some elbow grease will fix.  It'll also identify any loose copper tiles.  Then to tidy up the keel and complete and fit the rudder so I can start working on the upper hull.  I think transom/rear galleries first which I see from a few other recent posts are a bit fiddly! 
 
 
 

Just about finished the stern transom and galleries; just some painting to tidy up.  Now that she has her name I thought about a naming ceremony; unfortunately as it is sober October my wife has locked the champagne away.  I'll just have to wait until canny remember November!!
 

Hi Jim, just a thought, I wonder if you were to go with the 'yellower' initial colour, it would fit in better to my eye.  You could try doing the spots in relief with a drill bit, and highlighting with a slightly darker colour which I think would be a little subtler.  All artistic opinion of course.  Looks great in any event.

I've found that photocopying or scanning/printing the plans and then cutting out the profiles as a guide is pretty easy.  As for cutting out the cut parts, you don't mention how thick it is or the material, but anything from a larger Exacto blade to a fret saw could work.  Even thick walnut tends to cut easily with a sharp blade and patience, plywood or MDF likely needs a toothed blade.    Take it easy as you can trim off any excess once its free with a sanding stick.  Good luck!

Need to spend another day or two on finishing mast rigging, then move on to ship boats.

Main mast with working boom under construction.

Here's another point I just remembered as I'm working on my latest model. When you extrude your bulkheads you need to anticipate the faring process. In other words, the frames towards the bow will be sanded down in one direction while the frames towards the stern will be sanded down in the opposite direction. There are only a few frames in the middle which will be sanded down evenly. So, in order for the lines to remain true, you need to extrude the forward frames towards the bow and the rear frames towards the stern. Then, you simply fare in the direction of the planking but just up to the edge of the bulkhead. If you just leave that outer edge (the stern edge of the frames in the bow section and the forward edges of the frames in the rear section) you will be right at the lines you traced. 
 
If you extrude all the frames mid-plane, then your boat will be too small in the bow and the stern (unless, of course, you leave gaps and only fare half the bulkhead). 
 
OK, now who actually was able to follow that? 
 
Cheers, 

Rick 
 

These are good questions Eberhard, and I really don't know for sure; but, I think these were only stowed here/used in action or for ceremonial.  Attached is the picture (crop) I used as reference.  The photo was taken in late 1867 when the ship was the escort for the visit of Prince Alfred, and is shown dressed overall.

 
cheers
 
Pat

Log has been started and I will use that for all future questions.
 
Thanks to all!
Dave

...and start a build log so everyone can follow along and help answer the next question that will undoubtedly arise 🙂 

...and start a build log so everyone can follow along and help answer the next question that will undoubtedly arise 🙂 

V/W class destroyer 'Wild Swan'
W/ C 12” x 10”

'The cost of your ration of Butter has risen again.' Survivors of a torpedoed Merchant Ship in the North Atlantic during WW2
W/C 11” X 8”
 

Convoy painting, can't remember the name of the ship, lost the reference
W/C 12” X 8”

Thank you all for your good wishes. Well on the mend now
jim
HMS Plymouth at the Falklands

Afternoon quickie.US Troop Transport 'Leviathan' in 'battle dress' 12” X 10”

Started working on the waterways for the forecastle another nice curved hook scarph