Beef Wellington

Foc's'l Planking Wrap-up:
 
Foc's'l and gangway planking is now complete.  Hopefully photo's tell the story.
 
The position of the cathead has been estimated, and a rather bizare planking arrangement was used to hopefully ensure that this will look OK once the cathead is finally installed, basically wanted the planking to be as prototypical as possible, although this will mean staring at a rather jarring joint until this is installed.  The second photo in the series below shows how I'm anticipating this will look once the cathead is in place, and which will essentially hide the joint of the waterway and the artificial planking arrangement.  Once the angle of the plank-waterway termination was less than 45 deg, a switch was made to hooking the ends of the planks, and each of these had to be cut and shaped from 6mm strip (these were tapered the same as before)

The process was continued until the area was complete.  The only deviation being that the last 2 planks on each side were tweaked a little more to try to get these as even looking as possible, and of course the last plank being the most laborious to get an acceptable fit. It is hard to see in the photos, but the curve of the plank can be challenge to ensure that the simulated caulking looks as consistent as possible.  I eperience this challenge on the quaterdeck as well, but a solution that helped here was the use of thin plates of clear mica to help position these as consistently as possible until glue sets (I use PVA glue almost exclusively for planking).

The gangway planking in the waste was pretty straightforward, (in fact the only non-shaped planks on the entire top deck) and comprised almost my last acceptable pieces 4mm maple strip.  It was very close, but I did not run out thankfully.  Photo below shows how the gangway planking 'sits' on the lip of the entryway platforms that form part of the quarterdeck.  The gangway does not have a waterway.

Finally, some overall shots of the top deck, the foc's'l has not been scraped or cleaned up at all yet, which will be the next task.  The question I ask myself is whether the time and effort to taper the foc's'l planking was worth it.  I suspect that anyone looking at this would never notice as the final effect is very subtle, but I can't help but feel that the reason this is hard to see is simply because it complements the shape of the foc's'l without drawing attention to itself.  Overall, I am very pleased with the result, and with this almost complete, it will be nice to be able to turn to other tasks.

Thoughts and conjectures on 'Jason's' (and Artois class frigate) armament and bulwark configuration:
 
Currently knee deep trying to think through a number of problems making sharing photos at this stage a little premature.  I have however reached a stage where certain decisions are required, specifically the armament bulwark gunport/carronade configuration.  I very much enjoy seeing other builders' thoughts and decisions on how to build their Artois class frigate, Diana or otherwise, and at the risk of putting people to sleep I'm summarizing my thoughts below.  As has been commented many times, much is unknown leaving a lot to builders' discretion, but I think the available evidence suggests that these options can be.  Without either the builders or ships logs to shed more light, much will remain conjecture.   My goal was to arrive at the most likely (IMHO) scenario for 'Jason' when she was launched, but also not let this get in the way of the model I want to build.  (Recognizing of course that certain anachronisms will persist, for example copper plates, armament etc. would not be present at launch).  My intent is not to spark debate, but to get my thoughts on paper. 🙂
 
Chronological timeline of evidence and events:
 
Date unknown:  Various NMM models with no armament, pierced for canons with open quarterdeck bulwarks and multiple design differences discussed fully in AOTS.  
 
1793 (NMM Plan Ref ZAZ2383) – open bulwarks with quarterdeck, with more additional exposed quarterdeck timberheads, ports for cannons only (no carronades)
 
March 1793 (NMM Plan Ref ZAZ2341) - Open bulwarks, originally reflects, but reflects updates (likely1797?) showing 6 quarterdeck, 2 forecastle carronade ports
 
March/April 1793 (NMM Wikimedia Commons J5552) – Open bulwarks, reflects 6 quarterdeck, 2 forecastle carronade ports
 
1st April 1793 (NMM Wikimedia Commons J7737) - Closed bulwarks, ports for cannons only (no carronades)
 
4th April 1793 (NMM Plan ZAZ2344, NMM Wikimedia Commons J7733) – Framing plan, open bulwarks, ports for cannons only (no carronades)
 
12 June 1793 (NMM Wikimedia Commons J5549) – Closed bulwarks, ports for cannons, (reflects change for 6 quarterdeck, 2 forecastle carronade ports, as well as subsequent adjustments to gunport position – date unknown).  Interestingly also shows the mainmast brace bits moved forward adjacent to the barricade which is not reflected in any other sources.
 
November 1793: Admiralty promulgated Order defines armament:  Quarterdeck: 8 x 9lb’er, 4 x 24lb Carronade per Admiralty Order, fo’c’sle: 2 x 9lb’er (Likely long nine chase guns), 2 x 24lb Carronade
 
April 1794: JASON LAUNCHED
 
November 1794: Admiralty promulgated order to replace 24lb Carronades and carry additional 32lb Carronades at expense of some carriage guns.  Quarterdeck: 6 x 9lb’er, 6 x 32lb Carronade, fo’c’sle: 2 x 9lb’er (Probably long nine chase guns), 2 x 32lb Carronade
 
1797 (NMM Plan Ref ZAZ2341)
Closed quarterdeck bulwarks shown on plan per current practice (Details of design or build channel and open bulwark arrangement shown).  This plan also indicates the more austere square finish to the quarterdeck bulwark in addition to the more ornate version used in the illustration on the jacket and used as basis for the kit configuration.  Interestingly, plan indicates that the Foremast of Jason and Diamond were moved forward 6 ¼ inches. Quarterdeck piercings for 12 carriage guns shown as designed/built together subsequent adjustments for piercings for 6 x carriage guns and 6 x Carronades Aug 1798: JASON WRECKED
 
December 1799: All upper deck armament to comprise 32lb Carronades per Admiralty Order, with exception of 2 chase guns)
Quarterdeck: 12 x 32lb carronade, fo’c’sle: 2 x 9lb’er (Probably long nine chase guns), 2 x 32b Carronade  
Decisions and rationale for how to represent ‘Jason’ “as launched”:
Bulwarks:  Sufficient historical ambiguity to allow the model maker (me) to feel comfortable that both open or built-up bulwarks are historically viable.  This short period of a few years when these ships were built was a time when the preference for 'built up' and 'open' bulwarks switched back and forth.  The earlier older design variance of open bulwark with exposed timberheads, while intriguing to model, seems unlikely by 1794. Armament: The admiralty order of November 1793 will be reflected as I believe there would be sufficient time to between issuance and launch for this to be reflected.  As such, Jason will be equipped with Quarterdeck: 8 x 9lb’er, 4 x 24lb Carronade and fo’c’sle: 2 x 9lb’er and 2 x 24lb Carronade.  Gunports:  ‘Jason’s’ gunports will be pierced to reflect the armament described above.  There are however no (existing) plans that show this configuration (i.e. only 2 quarterdeck carronades per side).  In my view, this does not seem problematic:  CORRECTED - there is!  See post #691 below There was only a 12 month period between the Nov 1793 Admiralty orders to carry 4x24lb quarterdeck carronades, and the Nov 1794 order to carry 6x32lb quarterdeck carronades.  Only plans drawn up in this period would reflect this configuration, and given that plans for each member of the class were drawn up pretty extensively in 1793, there doesn’t seem to have been much need to redo. The available plans reflect different things, but it's not definitively known exactly what.  Various plans showing the original cannon only configuration show subsequent modifications for the 6 carronade ports, but none show only 4.  It seems reasonable that any updates to reflect the 1793 (4) carronade configuration, would likely have been updated again to reflect the 6 carronade configuration after 1794, or just updated to once after 1794.  My conclusion therefore is that the absence of a plan showing this configuration does not preclude it.  The ports least encumbered by stays were selected, and which are consistent with subsequent carronade layout. Hopefully back to some photo's next update...

Hancing pieces and volutes....
 
I'm a little embarrassed that it has been so long that I've been away, somewhat from the shipyard but also this wonderful site.  With the weather starting to turn and a bit more available time it seemed a good time to get back into things and try to pick up from a point that I left a little disheartened so many months ago.  To be able to move forward, I had to come up with a solution for the hancing pieces which should then really allow much of the final hull form to be finalised.  The problem I faced stemmed from the fact that I had to come up with a hancing piece volute 6mm high (per NMM plans) to transition the upper rails into the waist, and following a profile already established for the other rails.  Although these are not large details, they are features that to my eye need to be sufficiently elegant and accurate to avoid detracting from the lines of the hull.  I tried many different approaches, but here is the one that worked best for me and provided a method of construction that allowed consistent results.  I'll apologize in advance for quality of the photographs, I was so focused on the work and forgot to check the photo quality as I progressed.
 
2.2 mm holes were drilled using a pin vise into some 2mm pear wood (actually 1.5mm + 0.5mm pear laminated together cross grain because I didn't have any 2mm sheet stock), this matches the starting thickness used for the upper rails which started as 2x2mm square strip.  (A 2.2mm hole was found through visual trial and error to introduce the gradual narrowing of the rail into the end of the volute).  A 1.5mm diameter recess was then carefully made at the edge using a round needle file at 45deg to the bottom of the hole.  Each 'blank' was then cut from the sheet, given a slight reduced profile using an exacto blade, and a thin cut made above the filed lobe (explanation below). 

Small sections of 1.5mm diameter pear dowel were then glued into the 1.5mm recess, so they very slightly protruded above the top of the block.  Sufficient PVA glue was used to ensure that these were well bonded.  Once dry, a the top of the blanks were gently cut back and carefully finished against a circular sander so that the top edge of the blank was tangential to the top of the 2.2mm drilled hole (the cut previously made above the recess allows this section to release easily as it will no longer be needed.

A length of 2x2mm pear wood strip was scraped with the same molding profile as used previously in the build, but care taken to leave an untouched section toward the end.  The volute blanks were then attached to the unfinished end of the scraped molding.  PVA glue was used generously, and left to dry overnight to ensure a full strength bond.  Once dry, the excess was then carefully cut away to give proportions pleasing to the eye (mine at least) and ensure that the final volute form would be 6mm high.  The rough cut was then very carefully reduced to its final shape using various grades of sanding sticks.

 
Once the final shape was achieved, a profile needed to be introduced to match, and transition as smoothly as possible from the molding strip into the curve of the volute.  To do this I needed to create a second scraper profile at the very edge of a razor blade to work on the volute curve effectively (the scraper profile used previously for strip had been centered to give best control on straight strip).  This was performed very slowly as catastrophic failure would be very easy!  While it is true that it took multiple experiments to get this method down, it did work well and the four needed volutes were all first time efforts with no rework, and despite the many imperfections highlighted by the macro lens, the results to the naked eye exceeded my expectations.

In position, the volutes will now allow final shaping of the hull profile.  Onto the next challenges!

Hancing pieces and volutes....
 
I'm a little embarrassed that it has been so long that I've been away, somewhat from the shipyard but also this wonderful site.  With the weather starting to turn and a bit more available time it seemed a good time to get back into things and try to pick up from a point that I left a little disheartened so many months ago.  To be able to move forward, I had to come up with a solution for the hancing pieces which should then really allow much of the final hull form to be finalised.  The problem I faced stemmed from the fact that I had to come up with a hancing piece volute 6mm high (per NMM plans) to transition the upper rails into the waist, and following a profile already established for the other rails.  Although these are not large details, they are features that to my eye need to be sufficiently elegant and accurate to avoid detracting from the lines of the hull.  I tried many different approaches, but here is the one that worked best for me and provided a method of construction that allowed consistent results.  I'll apologize in advance for quality of the photographs, I was so focused on the work and forgot to check the photo quality as I progressed.
 
2.2 mm holes were drilled using a pin vise into some 2mm pear wood (actually 1.5mm + 0.5mm pear laminated together cross grain because I didn't have any 2mm sheet stock), this matches the starting thickness used for the upper rails which started as 2x2mm square strip.  (A 2.2mm hole was found through visual trial and error to introduce the gradual narrowing of the rail into the end of the volute).  A 1.5mm diameter recess was then carefully made at the edge using a round needle file at 45deg to the bottom of the hole.  Each 'blank' was then cut from the sheet, given a slight reduced profile using an exacto blade, and a thin cut made above the filed lobe (explanation below). 

Small sections of 1.5mm diameter pear dowel were then glued into the 1.5mm recess, so they very slightly protruded above the top of the block.  Sufficient PVA glue was used to ensure that these were well bonded.  Once dry, a the top of the blanks were gently cut back and carefully finished against a circular sander so that the top edge of the blank was tangential to the top of the 2.2mm drilled hole (the cut previously made above the recess allows this section to release easily as it will no longer be needed.

A length of 2x2mm pear wood strip was scraped with the same molding profile as used previously in the build, but care taken to leave an untouched section toward the end.  The volute blanks were then attached to the unfinished end of the scraped molding.  PVA glue was used generously, and left to dry overnight to ensure a full strength bond.  Once dry, the excess was then carefully cut away to give proportions pleasing to the eye (mine at least) and ensure that the final volute form would be 6mm high.  The rough cut was then very carefully reduced to its final shape using various grades of sanding sticks.

 
Once the final shape was achieved, a profile needed to be introduced to match, and transition as smoothly as possible from the molding strip into the curve of the volute.  To do this I needed to create a second scraper profile at the very edge of a razor blade to work on the volute curve effectively (the scraper profile used previously for strip had been centered to give best control on straight strip).  This was performed very slowly as catastrophic failure would be very easy!  While it is true that it took multiple experiments to get this method down, it did work well and the four needed volutes were all first time efforts with no rework, and despite the many imperfections highlighted by the macro lens, the results to the naked eye exceeded my expectations.

In position, the volutes will now allow final shaping of the hull profile.  Onto the next challenges!

Thoughts and conjectures on 'Jason's' (and Artois class frigate) armament and bulwark configuration:
 
Currently knee deep trying to think through a number of problems making sharing photos at this stage a little premature.  I have however reached a stage where certain decisions are required, specifically the armament bulwark gunport/carronade configuration.  I very much enjoy seeing other builders' thoughts and decisions on how to build their Artois class frigate, Diana or otherwise, and at the risk of putting people to sleep I'm summarizing my thoughts below.  As has been commented many times, much is unknown leaving a lot to builders' discretion, but I think the available evidence suggests that these options can be.  Without either the builders or ships logs to shed more light, much will remain conjecture.   My goal was to arrive at the most likely (IMHO) scenario for 'Jason' when she was launched, but also not let this get in the way of the model I want to build.  (Recognizing of course that certain anachronisms will persist, for example copper plates, armament etc. would not be present at launch).  My intent is not to spark debate, but to get my thoughts on paper. 🙂
 
Chronological timeline of evidence and events:
 
Date unknown:  Various NMM models with no armament, pierced for canons with open quarterdeck bulwarks and multiple design differences discussed fully in AOTS.  
 
1793 (NMM Plan Ref ZAZ2383) – open bulwarks with quarterdeck, with more additional exposed quarterdeck timberheads, ports for cannons only (no carronades)
 
March 1793 (NMM Plan Ref ZAZ2341) - Open bulwarks, originally reflects, but reflects updates (likely1797?) showing 6 quarterdeck, 2 forecastle carronade ports
 
March/April 1793 (NMM Wikimedia Commons J5552) – Open bulwarks, reflects 6 quarterdeck, 2 forecastle carronade ports
 
1st April 1793 (NMM Wikimedia Commons J7737) - Closed bulwarks, ports for cannons only (no carronades)
 
4th April 1793 (NMM Plan ZAZ2344, NMM Wikimedia Commons J7733) – Framing plan, open bulwarks, ports for cannons only (no carronades)
 
12 June 1793 (NMM Wikimedia Commons J5549) – Closed bulwarks, ports for cannons, (reflects change for 6 quarterdeck, 2 forecastle carronade ports, as well as subsequent adjustments to gunport position – date unknown).  Interestingly also shows the mainmast brace bits moved forward adjacent to the barricade which is not reflected in any other sources.
 
November 1793: Admiralty promulgated Order defines armament:  Quarterdeck: 8 x 9lb’er, 4 x 24lb Carronade per Admiralty Order, fo’c’sle: 2 x 9lb’er (Likely long nine chase guns), 2 x 24lb Carronade
 
April 1794: JASON LAUNCHED
 
November 1794: Admiralty promulgated order to replace 24lb Carronades and carry additional 32lb Carronades at expense of some carriage guns.  Quarterdeck: 6 x 9lb’er, 6 x 32lb Carronade, fo’c’sle: 2 x 9lb’er (Probably long nine chase guns), 2 x 32lb Carronade
 
1797 (NMM Plan Ref ZAZ2341)
Closed quarterdeck bulwarks shown on plan per current practice (Details of design or build channel and open bulwark arrangement shown).  This plan also indicates the more austere square finish to the quarterdeck bulwark in addition to the more ornate version used in the illustration on the jacket and used as basis for the kit configuration.  Interestingly, plan indicates that the Foremast of Jason and Diamond were moved forward 6 ¼ inches. Quarterdeck piercings for 12 carriage guns shown as designed/built together subsequent adjustments for piercings for 6 x carriage guns and 6 x Carronades Aug 1798: JASON WRECKED
 
December 1799: All upper deck armament to comprise 32lb Carronades per Admiralty Order, with exception of 2 chase guns)
Quarterdeck: 12 x 32lb carronade, fo’c’sle: 2 x 9lb’er (Probably long nine chase guns), 2 x 32b Carronade  
Decisions and rationale for how to represent ‘Jason’ “as launched”:
Bulwarks:  Sufficient historical ambiguity to allow the model maker (me) to feel comfortable that both open or built-up bulwarks are historically viable.  This short period of a few years when these ships were built was a time when the preference for 'built up' and 'open' bulwarks switched back and forth.  The earlier older design variance of open bulwark with exposed timberheads, while intriguing to model, seems unlikely by 1794. Armament: The admiralty order of November 1793 will be reflected as I believe there would be sufficient time to between issuance and launch for this to be reflected.  As such, Jason will be equipped with Quarterdeck: 8 x 9lb’er, 4 x 24lb Carronade and fo’c’sle: 2 x 9lb’er and 2 x 24lb Carronade.  Gunports:  ‘Jason’s’ gunports will be pierced to reflect the armament described above.  There are however no (existing) plans that show this configuration (i.e. only 2 quarterdeck carronades per side).  In my view, this does not seem problematic:  CORRECTED - there is!  See post #691 below There was only a 12 month period between the Nov 1793 Admiralty orders to carry 4x24lb quarterdeck carronades, and the Nov 1794 order to carry 6x32lb quarterdeck carronades.  Only plans drawn up in this period would reflect this configuration, and given that plans for each member of the class were drawn up pretty extensively in 1793, there doesn’t seem to have been much need to redo. The available plans reflect different things, but it's not definitively known exactly what.  Various plans showing the original cannon only configuration show subsequent modifications for the 6 carronade ports, but none show only 4.  It seems reasonable that any updates to reflect the 1793 (4) carronade configuration, would likely have been updated again to reflect the 6 carronade configuration after 1794, or just updated to once after 1794.  My conclusion therefore is that the absence of a plan showing this configuration does not preclude it.  The ports least encumbered by stays were selected, and which are consistent with subsequent carronade layout. Hopefully back to some photo's next update...

Now I know how I will make my rails and volutes. Thank you.

That's a very clever solution Jason and beautifully done
 
David

I am a fan of Admiralty paints. The yellow and red ochre along with Dull and Ironworks Black look great in combination on my Vanguard and Pickle. The Ironworks Black actually looks great on wood, it covers the boom and yards on my Cheerful and Pegasus as it will on Flirt when I go back to its rigging. I like not only the color but how easily it goes on and covers. 

Alan just a queston good sir. Why not remove the transom you have fitted and fit the counter timber's first then install the transom to fit them. I made all of my stern timber's first and then  fitted the transom. Take the stern timbers in shape and using rubber cement or Pva which ever you choose to glue them all to each other with thin pieces of balsa wood in between the pieces and then sand all of them down at one time. Mark them out with numbers from right to left and  reinstall them in order. I found this so much easier fitting the stern timbers first then the transom.  there is a whole lot more stern timbers then transom that's for sure. Hope this help's you. 
 
 
 




 

Thanks for your nice comment on the ratlines Jason.
 
Your point on the tool used (pun intended) prompted me to look them up. This link brings up a five sided version and are listed as watchmaker's cutting broaches. I also have a set of round smoothing broaches that are useful for cleaning out holes in blocks.
 
https://www.eternaltools.com/watchmakers-cutting-broaches-set-06mm-2mm
 
I'm sure you'll be able to find a set in the US
 
I think a bradawl is, to use a technical description, a 'pointing thing with a handle' to make a small pilot hole before drilling. 
 
David
 

Thats a nice guide, and the results show you're clearly an old hand at ratlines.
 
BTW - I *think* the tool you show is called a bradawl, but not sure if that name applies to squared tips and maybe others can confrim...in any event, I wish I had one!

Thats a nice guide, and the results show you're clearly an old hand at ratlines.
 
BTW - I *think* the tool you show is called a bradawl, but not sure if that name applies to squared tips and maybe others can confrim...in any event, I wish I had one!

Hi all and thanks again for all the likes.
 
I have been working on the ratlines for the past couple of weeks and to break up this process, I’ve been finishing off the topmasts and begun rigging the bowsprit, which will be the subject of a separate post.
 
My daughter, being a lot cleverer than I, provided me with a PDF file of lines drawn at 5.8mm which I printed off and cut to shape to use as a guide to keep everything straight.
Lees says that at the time Diana was built, the first and last 6 ratlines did not tie to the first and last shroud on each mast. To remind me, I marked these on the paper guidelines.
 
The ratlines are worked in 0.25 Gutterman dark brown cotton thread in the usual way with half hitches on the first and last shroud and clove hitches for the rest. To begin, I tied the first run and then every 5th and then filled in. Once you get going there’s a rhythm to it but I found that pinching such a fine line makes finger and thumb ache so I could only keep going for an hour at a time.
 

The first set on the foremast and some of these will need retying.


All finished now and I have started work on catharpins and shroud cleats.
 
I liked Ray’s description of making the catharpins in his Diana blog from 2014
 
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/707-hms-diana-by-ray-finished-caldercraftjotika-a-38-gun-heavy-frigate-1794/page/13/
 
which I shall copy with grateful thanks.

0.5mm thread is stained and then served with Gutterman thread

The eyes are seized with 5 wraps of the same Gutterman cotton thread

and tested for fit on 1mm blackened brass rod as futtock staves.
 
The shroud cleats I will be using are from Chris Watton and much nicer than the white metal ones in the kit

That's all for now
David

Beautiful work that many can only aspire to, would love to follow your progress.

Well, here is the finished product. This has been one of my all time favorite builds.

very quick update, still working on square frames - but only 7 to go.  yee haw....    Looks like I have rear cants and fashion timbers in my near future, wonder how much trouble I'll have with those....
Thanks for looking in!
 
PS - if we ever have a messiest workspace/table area contest, I want to enter. I'll win for sure, LOL
 

 

I got mail today, fresh off the press, from Kerry Jang in Canada:

Victory, 100-gun First Rtae 1765, Seaforth Publishing.

The book is part of a series ShipCraft and is number 29.

The book deals with Victory model kits and is aimed specifically at modelers. Besides history, it presents the available kits from 1:1200 to 1:64 in the full range of materials, gives an overview of the current aftermarket and presents 3 built models. A larger article goes over the various appearances of the ship and ends in new overview drawings, done especially for this book by McKay.

I have yet to analyze the historical and appearance part at times, but know that Kerry Jang has talked to a great many protagonists of the Victory scene.

Personal notes:
- McKay´s AOTS was my first stop on the way to Victory. The color on the book´s pages were watched pale ever since.
- I stood in front of the first of the 3 models presented in the book at the convention in Rochefort with my mouth open, jaw to the floor: the 1:300 version by Etsuro Tsuboi. Breathtaking!
- The second model of the Victory is 1:48 by Kazunobu Shirai and it was the first model of this ship that I fell in love with over 15 years ago when I started doing internet research on this ship.
- And the third model shown is actually the little fatty one with bumble bee stripes by a certain dafi :-0

Never, really never would I have dared to dream of ending up with 3 of my heroes in the same book!

Thank you Kerry for that opportunity!

Dear greetings, DAniel

Big Stuff this past week or so. Sawing, hammering, gluing, sanding, detailing...you get the picture. In my basement shop where I can make sawdust ( I have two air systems: a plain ShopVac for vacuuming, and a ceiling mounted 'ShopFox' for all the tiny airborne particles.

HMS Camilla's diorama case completed. Tricky business to get the 4" high mitered corners precisely joined. Specialized 45/90 degree mitre clamps required. The model is positioned approximately in the case with an approximate list to starboard. The outside case measures 38" W X 28" deep. Height = 4" to case sides. The water may possibly be  slightly higher depending how I create the wave action of stormy weather.
Camilla will present herself considerably lower in the case once removed from the build clamper and resting her keel close to the plywood interior base - like all my other dioramas.
 
The yellow tube in the corner is Stainable Wood Filler (MinWax); I used it on the case and also on the model. The name says it all. It dries out rapidly and getting it out of its tube is a pain, but it does take stain well because it's a (somewhat) malleable paste with actual ground up wood; the solvent carrier evaporates rapidy so you need to work it as soon as it pokes out of its nozzle. Fingers work best I've found. 

Another view. I am a model maker, and at best, an amateur cabinet maker. You know the saying: "Measure Twice, Cut Once?" I measured Thrice and still got it wrong!
I had to salvage enough from cutoff pieces of the casing millwork to recover from this boob on the LAST side (of course). The yellow glue joints to a three-piece completed side rail are somewhat evident here. This will be less of an issue once I detail sand and then give the case it's final staining (I'll wait until all the water is complete and the model is in place before deciding the final colors for the millwork). The slight mis-match on the lovely Acanthus pattern of the case bothers my eye a little, but I'll be able to live with my imperfection(s). 3 sides out of 4 isn't too bad, right?🤫
 
Now, my next posts will be diving into the deep end: Camilla's water awaits!
 

24/10/2022
Hi everyone and thanks for the likes.
 
I’ve made some progress on the topmasts (and none on the ratlines). I’ve used the dimensions in AotS Diana and cross-referenced with Lees for tapers and diameters. The main and mizzen topmasts are almost completed with some details still to add and then trimming off the waste wood. I’m now on with the fore topmast. I planned to make them in order of size but owing to a mistake on the foremast it suddenly turned into a mizzen mast!

 
I have puzzled over the heeling of the main and fore topmasts which in Lees are shown as being of larger square section all round than the octagonal section of the mast but only larger athwartships in the AotS and the Caldercraft plans. I have followed the AotS but I am thinking to add further pieces fore and aft to give a more balanced appearance.


Heel and block from the starboard side

and from forward.
 If anyone has a more definitive view on how it should look, I would be glad of some advice.
 
 
All three topmasts. The lower sections of the fore topmast (pictured in the centre) are finished, the hounds and upper sections are to complete and details to add

 

A quick update on the Quarterdeck, with a small improvement and modification of the original kit: The National Maritime Museum model presents a nice molding above the rear bulkhead.
 

 
That molding is not present in the CAF Model kit and I wanted to add it: 
 

 
I used one of the 2 x 2 mm strips in the Session #4 box and after scrapping it with the correct shape, came up with this sandwich. Instead of the sub-floor going directly against the balusters/columns, I think it offers a little bit more realism for the stern of that ship.
 

 
You can see (above) how the molding is placed: a 2 x 2 strip sitting on top of the bulkhead and a 2 x 2 strip scrapped and glued to it. It does not cover entirely the top of the balusters, but once the top deck is in place, it will be impossible to see that.
 
Because of the introduction of that decorative molding, the top deck is raised by another 2 mm. At that point, the beams supporting the top deck must be raised to accommodate the change: 
 

 

 
This is easily done by placing a 2 mm thick piece of wood on top of the elbows, supporting the beams: 
 

 

 
Once everything is sanded smooth and cleaned, the poop deck fits nicely with just a slight curvature to eliminate the standing water: 
 

 
Note that the installation of these beams is part of the last Session #5.
 
Overall view of the rear section and quarterdeck: 
 

 
Time to move back to the Gallery and the bow. Thank you all for your comments and encouragements, as they are very much appreciated.
 
Yves

Finally, the building of the bulkhead separating the main cabins: 
 

 

 
Overall, it is pretty much the same way of building that partition. It is finally glued in place: 
 

 

 
Not much to see, once the poop deck will be in place: 
 

 

 
Time to install the diamond floor: 
 

 

 

 
That's it, for the quarterdeck. I still have the doors leading to the "Johns/Galleries" to build and a few details and we will be able to close the lid on all this :-(
 
Yves
 
 

The next phase is the building of the screen bulkhead. Here I wanted to depict it as close as possible to the National Maritime Museum model, which is basically painted in white. I only used some light gray for the windows and the wainscoting of the panels. Inside. the wood is just stained, lightly: 
 

 
The white putty is used to provide a very tight seal between the bulkhead and the planking. This prevents the light to go through.
 

 
 
 

 
The rear screen bulkhead is slightly convex in shape.
 
Yves
 
 

Cheers Guys,
 
As it happens in the past week, I have received my printed pictorial build album.
 I have done one of these for all my builds, it is a shame not to use all those build photos and record those internal details lost from view.
 
A few pages to give a flavour.

9094

9095

9096

9097

9098

8926(3)
Once again, thanks for your support, much appreciated.
 
 
B.E.
05/11/2022
 
 
 

Nice results there David, looking great.  Just curious whether you looked at and compared the 'aftermarket' pins provided by Caldercraft, they are much slimmer and proportional that those provided in the earlier kits.  I doff my cap to you as well for making 60 of those things!

Bit late, but congratulations on yet another fine build, with just the perfect amount of period 'je ne sais quoi' that you excel at!