Vivian Galad

I'm more than 1/4 way through the planking now. It's not as tidy as I'd like - I've learnt a lot of lessons during the process about proper preparation of the substructure (i.e. getting all the frames at exactly the same level) which I didn't do this time. I first cut grooves in the plug for the frames, then I changed my mind and decided to get rid of the grooves and have the frames stand out proud of the plug - which is what I should have done in the first place.
 
But because I couldn't cut the grooves precisely enough to the same depth with a handsaw they were all at slightly different depths and even after smoothing off the plug some of the frames still sit in the remnants of the grooves, while others sit fully proud of the plug. So I end up with wobbly planks.
 
I've fixed that to a certain degree using filler made from white glue and wood dust. But I should have used dust from the (pine) planks instead of re-using the stuff from the (plane tree) frames and wales, because the colour of the filler doesn't match the planks. Not a big problem - I'm going to paint the bottom of the ship black to simulate pitch or tar, and the sides will be red and yellow, as befits the Imperial dromon.
 
Five planks (plus garboards) in place:
 


 
Another problem that has arisen is that the planks seem to tilt somewhat, so the edge of the new plank is a little higher than the edge of the previous one. I think this is because I've been using push pins to hold the planks in place as the glue dries. The pins push on only one side of the plank, so no matter how careful I am, it tilts a little. I can  sand this smooth, but it offends me that I couldn't get it right first time. I'll have to find a better method of holding the planks in place.
 
Putting the sixth in place:
 


 
By the way, with the last plank so close to the wale, the flanges of the push pins were getting in the way, so I trimmed off one side of each flange and it fitted well. Dunno what I'm going to do with the last plank - nowhere for the pin to go - maybe I'll just have to hold the plank in place with my fingers till the glue dries . . .
 
But if I ever make another dromon (fat chance!) I'll know what mistakes to avoid. All part of life's rich tapestry.
 
I've also done preliminary painting on my two figures. Haven't sanded fully enough (a fact that isn't obvious until you take a detailed close-up photo) and I have yet to paint faces and the guardsman's hair, add shading etc etc , but it's starting to look good.
 

 
Steven
 
 

Nice!
Steve

And time for an update so you don´t think I´ve vanished again.
 
First of all, sorry for the low quality pics - I´ll have a new cam next month and be posting better ones.
 
As I said, I got a plan on changing the stern and, instead of making a new one (which would be a lot better), cut pieces from plywood and got rid from that steep curve - As it is now, well, not good looking I would say, but, I´ll cover it with a sheet cut and designed as a real stern should look - that said, my keel will be from the same wood, so, I´ll be changing the kit´s wood destined for it.
 

 
I´ve been planking decks. After I finished them I realized I could´ve done it other way, close to what it should be - following beams and such, but, then again the ship have no beams and I would have to create them - and I´ll try at least to reproduce something like them. Of course pictures won´t show, but pin holes were made - caulking coming soon.
 

So, I´ll show some cargo hold - don´t know if beams would be visible but decided to try some over the cargo hold - Not quite sure how I´ll make them - but I´m into reading so many things about and seeing so many pictures that I´ll figure it out soon enough. Still don´t know if I should plank the hull inside at the visible parts, so, I´m reproducing some more frames.
 

 



I´m using plywood, but will cover if needed.
 
It´s a small update, hope to be showing more soon.

And time for an update so you don´t think I´ve vanished again.
 
First of all, sorry for the low quality pics - I´ll have a new cam next month and be posting better ones.
 
As I said, I got a plan on changing the stern and, instead of making a new one (which would be a lot better), cut pieces from plywood and got rid from that steep curve - As it is now, well, not good looking I would say, but, I´ll cover it with a sheet cut and designed as a real stern should look - that said, my keel will be from the same wood, so, I´ll be changing the kit´s wood destined for it.
 

 
I´ve been planking decks. After I finished them I realized I could´ve done it other way, close to what it should be - following beams and such, but, then again the ship have no beams and I would have to create them - and I´ll try at least to reproduce something like them. Of course pictures won´t show, but pin holes were made - caulking coming soon.
 

So, I´ll show some cargo hold - don´t know if beams would be visible but decided to try some over the cargo hold - Not quite sure how I´ll make them - but I´m into reading so many things about and seeing so many pictures that I´ll figure it out soon enough. Still don´t know if I should plank the hull inside at the visible parts, so, I´m reproducing some more frames.
 

 



I´m using plywood, but will cover if needed.
 
It´s a small update, hope to be showing more soon.

Hey, Piet. People here is always supportive - really friendly, truth be told. U may be the airplane guy, but I love your work on the latest submarines nearing this shores. Thanks for visiting, be welcome!

Hello mates!
 
Comes the weekend, its shipbuilding time! 
 
In advance, I´m heeding your words and will change the bow, so it wouldn´t look as much as the Mataró´s. I adjusted a little bit the center of the ship ro receive the cargo deck, but after seeing Dori´s start on her new ship and re-reading Woodrat´s marvelous log, felt a little down on myself for not thinking on creating the lower deck, the cargo deck, lowering my frames, all of them. Maybe the kit´s instructions got into my mind and I just got with the flow. Hope the sensation vanishes at some point - I´ll get the ship going and throw away my frustrations as the Mataró´s itself is my next project and will be pof.
 
First picture, that massive wooden block I had to sand till my hands were falling off the wrist. It will be responsible for bending the planks on the right direction. Since I´ll change the bow a little, think they´ll be more drivers and have a little less influence on planking. First one I took to the saw piece at piece, second one I tried to sand directly from the final piece and, well, first one is the way to go.
 

 
 
Second picture shows the cargo deck on place. I lowered it a bit to gain space for beans (think they´ll be on sight). I´ll plank it too, but I´m still thinking what will be it like, so, let´s wait a bit.
 

 
I´m planking decks already. Corel didn´t provide me with the wood for planking, or the last owner (kit comes from e-bay). Had some since I got new ones for the Oseberg (too thin, since I want to plank the Oseberg directly over the frames - have to put that on the Oseberg´s log, by the way).
 

 
Next picture shows where the planking belong.
 

 
I haven´t fixed the frames on the aft and stern for I´m still planning the cabins. Still don´t know what they should have for furniture.
 
And the work is going on - The bow line as of Corel´s, the sanded block on place and the mod I´m doing to it, so it will be a little less bended up.
 


 

And that´s all for this update. As always, suggestions are welcome. ^^
 
 
 

And time for an update so you don´t think I´ve vanished again.
 
First of all, sorry for the low quality pics - I´ll have a new cam next month and be posting better ones.
 
As I said, I got a plan on changing the stern and, instead of making a new one (which would be a lot better), cut pieces from plywood and got rid from that steep curve - As it is now, well, not good looking I would say, but, I´ll cover it with a sheet cut and designed as a real stern should look - that said, my keel will be from the same wood, so, I´ll be changing the kit´s wood destined for it.
 

 
I´ve been planking decks. After I finished them I realized I could´ve done it other way, close to what it should be - following beams and such, but, then again the ship have no beams and I would have to create them - and I´ll try at least to reproduce something like them. Of course pictures won´t show, but pin holes were made - caulking coming soon.
 

So, I´ll show some cargo hold - don´t know if beams would be visible but decided to try some over the cargo hold - Not quite sure how I´ll make them - but I´m into reading so many things about and seeing so many pictures that I´ll figure it out soon enough. Still don´t know if I should plank the hull inside at the visible parts, so, I´m reproducing some more frames.
 

 



I´m using plywood, but will cover if needed.
 
It´s a small update, hope to be showing more soon.

Hey, Piet. People here is always supportive - really friendly, truth be told. U may be the airplane guy, but I love your work on the latest submarines nearing this shores. Thanks for visiting, be welcome!

Thanks all for the warm welcome back!
 
So here's some progress. The forward strokes of the spriketting are done. Two layers of wood are used, they are now thin enough to bend by hand and set them in place to do the final shaping to match the waterway. They are done anchor stock style, so not having to do wet/warm bending them is a big plus. 
 
The first layer is intentionally done a bit wider and cut to size after the second layer is fixed (the surplus is seen in the second pic)
Getting to fay the planks into the waterway called for some additional sanding and shaping to get a clean transition.
 

 

 
The quick work will be thinner and can probably be done with a single layer of planking. 
 
Remco
 

Thanks guys.
Greg the pins are easy to make, I think they rank amongst the top 10 most used tools in my build.
Ben, with my scroll saw they were relative easy to make and there were no remakes :-) 
 
I couldn't find an appropriated sized piece of brass for the iron knee so I made it from boxwood and tinted it black with Fiebing's leather paint
I'm also doing lot's of mortice cutting for the remaining carlings and ledges.
 


 
A little off topic, but it was time to make a better storage for my chisels. They used to wander over my bench  with the tip protected by a little piece of isolation foam. This was a nice little project, keeps them safe and organized  
 

 
 
 
Remco
 

The pinnace was build from a NMM plan 

Building the cutter using the Admiralty models plug

Thank you very much Doris.

Finally I found some time to show what has been accomplished in the last few days. I know, I know, it doesn't seem like there is a lot to on this model but in the meantime I had to do some research on the history of the O16. I found something that I had to edit which took some time. I also researched  that new type of steel they used on this boat, which peeked my interest, being a metallurgist and certified welder to boot. However, I am not yet going to post that historical log here but instead I'll show the next step in the assembly process.
 
I decided to put the rudder, propeller assembly and dive plane assemblies on. That way I can put the model on the proto display board for stability for the rest of the build and keep those delicate stern parts safe.
 
On the pics below, especially those from my O19 build, you can see where they all go.
First I cemented the rudder on, easy, peacy, no problem here.
Then I proceeded to the propeller assemblies. I first made a little dimple in the shaft fairing on the hull so I had a secure point to glue the prop shaft to while aligning attaching braces. It was best to lay the hull upside down, prep everything first like squeezing some CA on a piece of cardboard and a sewing pin handy.
Took the prop assembly in a pair of tweezers with my left hand, positioned the part as best as I could, looking from the stern and the side to make sure it aligned properly. Then, with the pin, I took a tiny drop of CA and first dabbed some on the attaching braces and then where the prop shaft goes into the hull. I lucked out, it looked okay to me so I did the same on the other side.
 
Next came the dive plane assemblies. Not so easy. They didn't seem to line up with with the vertical axis of the boat. With other words they were pointing more inboard at the rear. I checked with the O19 model sitting next to me on the shelf to see if I was locating it correctly. The dive plane outer frame is attached to the prop shaft bearing housing and when I held the part to where I figured they belong it didn't look right. What I should have done was curt a small piece off at the forward end of the frame. I also found that the dive planes did not have enough cut-out for the rudder swing.
Perhaps I got sidetracked by how I did it on the O19 and Boris had another idea I am not aware of.
Well, I did cut some material away for the rudder to swing and decided to cement it to the model anyhow and fix it by cementing a piece of very thin paper on top, cutting it to shape later.
 
So yes, I took a piece of thin copy paper, soaked in thin CA and after it had cured I made a rough outline of the whole assemble and cut it from the copy paper. Some fitting and trimming to come close to where everything lined up I cemented it to the dive planes. Hmmm, not too bad, he mumbled to himself. Now a little more trimming, a little grey paint and voila, done.
 
Sorry Boris, I screwed up but in the end it looks pretty good. I find that working on kit models is a lot more difficult then scratch building. But I do like a challenge and this model certainly is.
 
Okay, now for a few pics. I included a few from my O19 build and from the actual photo library of the shipyard. 
 
Here we see all the pertinent parts laid out at the stern of the model with a #11 blade to indicate size. Beware of the prop blades, they are extremely delicate!

 
This is a similar lay out from my O19 model.
 
This is the CA soaked paper I used for the fix.

 
Here the fix pieces are ready to be glued to the dive plane assemblies.

 
The fixit parts are now glued on and ready to be trimmed.

 
I brushed some dark grey paint on it to kill the white. At this point I did some more trimming for what I think the proper alignment should be.

 
This is a photo from the shipbuilder's archive and shows the "kingston" frame #1. It is the most aft pressure bulkhead with the propeller shaft bearing housing attached to it #6. The center arrow #5 points to the keel with the dive plane pivot shat bearing housing #3.  #2 are for the torpedo tubes and #4 is the rudder protective guard.

 
This is how I mounted all these parts to the O19 model.

 
Here we see the stern of the O19 in primer.
 
Another view of the dive planes on the O19 model

 
Here is the O19 model stern end completed and yes everything works, even the propellers rotate when blowing on them.

 
Cheers,
 
 

Hey howya goin all, I said this Quote back in post 14 just before I was about to throw them in the rubbish bin I decided to take one apart
 


 
I had to grid the end to beable to take the handle part off of the bar
 

 
and low and beholed my suspicion on how they made them I was right, the first bar is made from different type of metal but that doesn't matter what matters is that it is rounded on one side and does not grip the bar like it should be doing, the other two metal bars where made the right way with sharp edges
 

 
so I replace the first metal bar with the second metal bar and put it back together and now they work like the ment to do.     

 
Why they where made like this is probably designed by someone who doesn't know how quick grip clamps work    
 
 

A number of things have been accomplished. First, I added the single strake of holly planking that I intend to have below the wales. Then, I made the fashion pieces that border the counter at the stern. These were cut from boxwood sheet and sanded to shape to fit. They were painted black and mounted. Next, I added black painted moldings to the lower and upper counter. Lastly, I applied a coat of Wipe-on Poly to the counter and the lower hull from the wales down.
 
Next up will be the planking above the wales.
 
Bob

Thank you very much, dear Piet. I appreciate your words a lot. 
The ship is already placed on the pedestal and the gun ports are framed, so now I can begin to cover the surface using "wooden" planks - of course made of foil strips.
 
My feathered assistant almost fell asleep so I stayed alone on my job again ...

Hehehe! Here I am right on the front to follow your work, Piet! Great news to know of you and a build of yours! 

Hehehe! Here I am right on the front to follow your work, Piet! Great news to know of you and a build of yours! 

The mizzen ‘spanker’ has been bent and the gaff crossed after many mistakes.  But with some perseverance the task was completed.  The ‘spanker’ was brailed which required a total of six lines that needed to be tied off.  I previously added a small pin rack holding 4 belaying pins on each side and used three per side for the brails.  The remaining one will be used later. I actually have a rigging plan that will use the MSW kit’s plans, with expansions to account for the ‘extra’ lines I need to show the furled sails.  Anyway, it’s on to the dreaded crowsfeet.
 

 

I’ve added the main topmast and main topsail yard with its sail.  The area of this sail is really large, even larger than the main course on my model.  I’m starting to wonder if I should be making the sails to be full size.  I thought that the sails on my last model, which were half size, were too small; now I’m thinking these may be too big.  No turning back now, however.  My sail plan is a cross between David Anscherl’s and the kit’s plan drawn up by George Campbell based on Harold Hahn’s plans.  My decisions are based on what I feel looks and/or seems right.  Most of the lines are still not tied off.  I’m waiting until the top gallant lines are all in place.  Now I’m off on a 12 day vacation, so the shipyard will be quiet for a while.

The mizzen mast is fully rigged.  It involved adding the topsail yard and sail.  All the lines had to be tied down while not interfering with the lines going to the small pin rail that I added for the spanker brails.  Everything looks good at this point.  There are still a couple of ‘empty’ pins, but they will be used later for various braces. I learned on my last build that braces are best left to last.  So now it is on to the main mast. 

       

The crowsfeet weren’t as hard as I thought.  The hardest part was making the euphroes.  I don’t have a power drill, other than my Dremel.  I made the euphroes with my hand held drill.  I used a 1/8 x 1/16 strip and used my xacto to make a score down the middle of the 1/8 side.  The score helped keep the holes lined up, and just used my awl to mark where the holes should be.  After the holes were drilled, I used a sanding stick to get the width and thickness down to where it should be.  The crowsfeet line I used was that recommended by Antscherl.  The line was fly fishing line with a weight of 6/0, and it’s very thin.  It was hard to capture on camera.
 
              
 
              

With completion of the framing, it was time to make some decisions. First, I decided that I would leave the hull below the wales unplanked, except for a single strake of holly directly below the wale. Second, the hull above the wales would be fully planked on both sides. Third, I would leave fairing of the interior hull until I have completed the hull planking and have cut the hull from the framing jig.
 
Having made these decisions, it was time to begin the planking process. The first item was the wales. Since they were to be painted black, I chose to use holly which is easier to bend than boxwood, and made them in two layers, again for ease of bending and fitting. When they were in place, I painted them using multiple coats of ModelMaster engine black (the former Pollyscale). 
 
Next, I planked the stern counter and the lower portion of the transom. This was done with boxwood and was treenailed using the drill and fill method (which I intend to use for all of the treenailing). I trimmed back the wales to meet the counter planking. I still need to add moldings, finish the counter planking with Wipe-on poly and paint the wale ends black. This will be done later, as will the remaining stern transom work.
 
Bob