KenW
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I find that although I probably won't build this model, your log IS an excellent instruction source. Thanks for your efforts. Cheers. -
I echo all that was said. Splendid workmanship and a beautiful model!
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- winchelsea
- Syren Ship Model Company
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Your design is innovative and revolutionary. Plank-on-Frame modeling will never be the same. Truly unbelievable!
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Thanks Gary. That's a good idea. I'll see what happens. Cheers.
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Happy New Year! I finally completed planking the port side of the model. It came out better, but far from perfect. If you look closely you’ll see a plank near the bow that is WAY too wide. I just have to learn to be more careful! There is no reason why if I have my paper strips, measure them properly, mark the hull accurately, and follow the marks when shaping the strips, I need a wide strake. I’m going to start on the starboard side and if it comes out way better I’ll have to decide whether to do the port side over. Probably I won’t. I’ll just put the port side towards the wall..
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Thanks Gary. Planking the bowl bow requires a lot of patience. I hope for the best. Cheers.
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I measured a new set of paper strips for a planking plan for the port side. The plan is for 19 one eighth width strakes; divided into 3 belts of six planks. I’ve completed the first belt of planking and I think I’m on the right track. One thing I learned about planking is that you can bend a plank more than once. At the bow, I first do an edge bend at the mid point of the plank, and then bend again about one half inch forward and another bend a half inch aft. This created an overall bend of the plank that fits the adjoining strake. If it’s still not right, I bend again. Then I bend the standard way for the curve of this odd shaped bow. Attached is a photo of the first belt and you can see how nicely the forward planks lie.
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Thanks druxey. I have that article. Cheers.
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Thanks. I've finished the zone of 6 strakes next to the wales. I came out pretty good. The problem is always, for me, how close am I to the plan. I will get out the paper strips and re-measure the next zone. If I am pleased with this side, I plan to remove the old planking on the other side and start over with it. Cheers.
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Planking of the starboard hull continues. However, I’m not pleased with how it’s going. You can see from the photo that the forward section and the aft section don’t ‘match’. It looks like a drop plank will be needed in the middle of the hull - a very unusual location for one. I went back and studied my planking process; from creating the paper strips at each bulkhead to the final installation of the wooden planks. I see problems throughout the entire process. So I’m going to start on the port side from the beginning. I’ll create new paper strips and try to more closely follow these strips and see the results. If, as I suspect, the port side comes out better, I’ll remove all the strakes from the starboard side and, again, start from the beginning. This is taking a whole lot longer than I originally planned. But there is no rush - I don’t have a boss with a due date standing over me. I think it was Augie that said, “It ain’t a hobby if you hurry.”
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Thanks David, Gary and Allan. As a member of the Ship Model Society of NJ, I've read and printed all the tutorials by Chuck. I should return to his monthly workshops. (I hear he has started them up again.) Every time I take some planks off and replace them, I see an improvement.
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Thanks for the photos Gary. They will be a help. The problem with my boat is that the bow has this "bowl" shape. But I like the idea of planking in sections. Hope your modeling is going well. Cheers.
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I'd like to see your photo. Someone told me this would be an interesting planking exercise, and he was right on. The stem is giving me the most problems; although I can't wait to see how it all looks when the two rows come together. Cheers.
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Thanks Gary. I am still having trouble with the planks starting at the keel going "up" or down since the boat is upside-downside. Your belts may be just what I need. Cheers.
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Well, I made my decision. I pulled the planks off the hull and will replace them with 1/16 thick strips. As I was advised, the thicker strips will bend, without breaking, to the extent I need. So far, I’ve installed 9 strakes and the results look much better. I’m going to start from the keel for the next strakes and, looking at the planking so far, it will be interesting when the two sets of strakes meet.
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I’ve spent a lot of time trying to plank the hull. (Three attempts have been removed and replaced.) I’ve now got 7 strakes installed on the starboard side and I see problems with the overall look of the bow. The planks look OK (1st photo), but they are rising way too fast (second photo). I’ll need to use at least two drop planks in order to finish. The real solution is to use edge bent planks. However, I can't get the 1/32 inch thick, ⅛ inch wide cedar planks to bend enough; and the planks don’t hold to whatever bend I do achieve. I think my only solution is to order some sheets and cut strips out in the shape I need. If anyone has any advice, I’d appreciate it.
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Before I started planking the hull, I wanted to put in the wood work around the deck. There is no rail. I used walnut, which is the same as the lining of the hatches. I’m happy with the result and think, so far, the hull looks a lot like the photo in the book. I still have to apply some Wipe-On Poly; and now the hull planking can now commence.
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By the end of August I finished the final planking of the deck using boxwood. Each strip was shaped in an effort to reflect the shape of the deck. The covers of the hatches were made to conform to the painting of the boat (see my first entry). There’s also a gap for the bow sprint. Next up is planking the hull which I think will pose some interesting challenges.
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I’ve fled Brooklyn for the much cooler woods of Northeastern Pennsylvania. But, I don’t have the software here that I have on my PC at home. So this is the entry that I would’ve made at the end of July. So far, I’ve been able to line the two main hatches with 1/32 walnut strips. The hatches will eventually have covers. And lines to “batten down the hatches.” The preliminary deck planking was done with 1/16 strips because I wanted to sand them down to achieve a raised center to allow water to drain off the deck. I feel that the hull’s deck is too flat. The pencil lines on the deck are to simulate the location of bulkheads and allow me to make the paper strips to plan the final deck planking
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Thanks Dan. I’m spending the summer in the Poconos and haven’t been able update my blog in a while. I’ll be back in September to show my progress. Cheers.
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