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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Thanks Bob. And thanks to "capt. Hook" and to all the 'likes'.
  2. KenW
    I finished the guns and their carriages. The barrels were blackened using the same method as I used on my Independence. Soak the barrels in acetone, then muriatic acid (15 minutes each) and then place them in JAX Blackener for 1-2 minutes. I was going to leave the quoin handles natural because I was happy with the way they came out (nice and small). But they looked very white and, really, they would have been painted the same color as the carriages, so I relented. I hope to mount and rig them in the next few days.
  3. KenW
    Thanks Roger. Thanks to Chuck and all the 'likes'. Cheers.
  4. KenW
    Thanks Mark and Lou. As far as my tools, I built the Providence using a jeweler's saw. The only power tool I have is a Dremel. I determined the size of a boat, which 'hangs' from the stern, by the width of the stern. A boat of 100 mm is about right. I'd have to get a cafmodel 130 mm kit and see what I can do to shorten it. But I like the idea, and I'll order one now. The Master Korabel boats are currently out of stock. I've requested a notification when they become available. Thanks for the info and ideas. Cheers.
  5. KenW
    Just discovered your blog. Great workmanship. And, good instructions/tutorial. I'll follow your blog and look forward to seeing the real thing when our club can finally meet again. Cheers.
  6. KenW
    Thanks Lou. There are no real plans of the Providence. Both the plans for the replica built for the 200th anniversary, and the model made for the 150th anniversary were built according to "a typical Rhode Island sloop". So holes and/or wooden mounts are certainly possible. I'm currently having trouble making a small boat to hang off the stern. The boat must not too much larger that the width of the stern. I'm looking at kits from Model Expo and bending basswood planks to the 'U' shape required for the ribs is, so far, impossible. I may just have the mounting blocks installed but say that the boat is ashore. I'll have to look at my various books and articles, but the mention that the boat was scraped about the time it was admitted into the Continental Navy was made twice. I'll get back to you. Any help you can offer is welcome.
  7. KenW
    I created more ‘deck furniture’ on the main deck. I had previously made a windlass using a mini kit that Chuck Passaro created for his Cheerful model. I had to make some alterations since the windlass was too big for the Providence’s deck. So I cut off the larger of the pieces (the one that had three holes) and did the same on a similar piece from a second kit. Then I filed a bit to make sure everything looked like it belonged. Next, I made a small smoke stack. And lastly, I made the mast fiferail, which included somewhat fancy aft posts. And, I also made the necessary belaying pins.
  8. KenW
    I added some boards to the outside of the hull. The Providence was originally called the Katy. In the early 1700s, it was converted into a boat able to run the smuggled goods and protect itself. It was described as “a sloop, all black boat low and long...with crane irons on the quarters for oars.” I don’t yet know what ‘crane irons’ are, but I’ll find out. In late 1775 , the Katy was renamed to the Providence and taken into the Continental Navy. At that time the sides were “scraped”. This is the boat in the Holman painting at the beginning of this blog. The replica of the Providence that was built in 1976 for the 200th anniversary celebrations had its upper hull painted blue and red. I decided that this is probably not how the boat appeared in 1777; so I painted the new boards black. Also, there is a model in the Rhode Island Historical Society that was designed and built in 1926, the 150th anniversary of American independence. Notice where the anchor cables go below the main deck. Guys at the club tell me that this method was not seen before 1850. So no one has an accurate model of the Providence. However, due to my inexperience, I will be careful with any changes I make. The model at the RIHS is below.
  9. KenW
    My modeling has been slow lately due to our return to Brooklyn. I’ve constructed the piece to hold the cannon balls. The cannon balls themselves are actually silicone ball bearings. They even came in black. I found them on Amazon; they are called uxcell 1/16 Inch Ceramic Bearing Balls, Si3N4 Silicon Nitride Ball G5 Precision 100pcs. (A four lb. ball was 3 inches.) I glued them onto the holding piece with CA glue and added some Doc O’Brien’s Weathering Power Grimy Black (available from Micro-Mark.) Then I added another coat of black paint just to the holding piece to add a little contrast.
  10. KenW
    Thanks Gary. So many people have said things about your model that I totally agree with, that I don't have anything original. So - your work is fantastic, etc. Cheers.
  11. KenW
    Hey Gary - Love your ability. When you use these dry transfers, do you cut out each letter in order to place it properly? Your transfers look so perfect. Cheers.
  12. KenW
    I think the anchors look really great! Can you get that shrink wrap electrical insulation at any hardware store? Your model is outstanding. Cheers.
  13. KenW
    I’m continuing to make ‘deck furniture’ for the main deck of the Providence. Since my last posting I’ve made the cat heads, the bilge pumps, two belaying pin racks and a lantern. I also made some belaying pins which are ⅜ inches long which scale-wise translates to 18 inches. That is about the size of the pins I’ve seen. On the Providence replica, the bilge pumps are painted black. They are placed next to the hatches for the photo. That isn’t their final location. The quarter deck will protrude over the aft main deck and there will be a supporting beam so I thought it would look good to have a lantern hanging from that beam between the two doors. The lantern is about ⅜ inches high.
  14. KenW
    Dave: This is really an impressive build of a BOF model. Both in the quality and precision of the workmanship; and the description and photos of the methods behind the build. I enjoy each entry. Cheers.
  15. KenW
    Coming along great, Bob. A pleasure to watch. Cheers
  16. KenW
    Work on the Providence continues at a slow pace. I’m on a bit of a vacation to get out of Brooklyn and the heat. I finally finished the doors to the officer’s quarters. I know that there isn’t much room between the wall or partition and the two aft guns, but the partition would be stored below the water line when the order to clear for action is given.
  17. KenW
    It’s been awhile since my last post, but I have been working on the Providence. I’ve finished planking the main deck, done some sanding and added a coat of Wipe-on-Poly. The blue tape is to protect the bulwarks from the sanding dust. I intend to sand some more and add the partition to the officer’s quarters before I do another coat. It has been a very hot summer, so far.
  18. KenW
    Congrats on a superb model. I can only echo what many others have said. Cheers.
  19. KenW
    OK. After removing the old planks and patching up the false deck, I’ve made new tick strips and started planking the deck. I have a piece of string set up from the knightshead to the stern to act as a chalk line. And the new planks have a straight line up the center of the deck. So now planking can continue.
  20. KenW
    After an almost sleepless night, I decided to remove ALL the deck planks and start over. So I used water and lifted the planks from the false deck. Since I’m pretty impatient, I used too much water which caused the center of the swiss pear false deck to warp. I cut out about an inch of warped wood and cut a piece to replace it. The deck is now cleared for action and I’m ready to try again. You can see the old deck planks on the right which will find a place in my trash bin. The hatches are able to be re-used. I need to do more sanding and create new tick strips.
  21. KenW
    I began planking the deck. I’m using basswood since that’s all I have. I notice that my center line is way off, even though I didn’t see that during the planking process. I’ll have to see if I can determine the cause. Making a model from scratch requires a lot of precision which I haven’t got (yet). I’m using the method described in Chuck Passaro’s Cheerful log with tapered planks and hooked scarf joints. This means I have to make tick strips. Chuck even pencils in each plank and plans for the location of each scarf joint. So I have work to do before I lay down any more planks. I’m not comfortable with my ability to make proper nibbs into the waterway.
  22. KenW
    The bulwarks are planked and painted red. I’m now getting ready to plank the deck. I’ll use the same method as was used by Chuck Passaro on his Cheerful model. I will have to make more tick strips.
  23. KenW
    Chuck: I enjoyed your blog and its historical information. I'll enjoy watching your continued build. Cheers.
  24. KenW
    That green paper copy of the main deck has been removed. Two knightheads were made to match a photo I have of the replica. I added spirketting in walnut. I used walnut because I need to preserve my stash of boxwood and holly. I’ll plank the entire bulwarks in walnut which will be painted red. Then I placed (no glue) the deck furniture and my two test guns as well as a sailor that is supposed to be in the right scale. The windlass is a ‘bastardized’ kit from Syren’s Cheerful model. It had to be made much smaller. The hatch gratings are also made from a Syren kit.
  25. KenW
    You workmanship is still the best. Can't wait until we can have club meetings to see models live again. Cheers.

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