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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Hey Dave, Just discovered this log so I’ll be following along. I also have a thing for colonial ships. Your work looks excellent. I don't think I could ever do a plank-on-frame, but yours looks outstanding. So, keep up the outstanding work. Cheers.
  2. KenW
    In order to plank below the wales, I first need to “line off” the hull. I should point out that I consider planking below the wales to be the hardest part of modeling. You need the proper measurements and do all kinds of bending to get the planks to sit properly. Anyway, I completed the “lining off” and can see where I need to make some adjustments. I see the green tape needs to be moved at the stern. Now the fun begins. Stay well and healthy.
  3. KenW
    I hope everyone is hunkered down in their shipyards and remains healthy and safe. The planking above the wales is completed. I used a pencil to simulate the caulking and applied one coat of Wipe-on-Poly. Everything went as it’s supposed to with no problems. I added a block under the keel so the model looks ‘level’ and the water line, but I think the block is too much. I’ll work that out when I finish planking and make a cradle later on.
  4. KenW
    The wales have been sanded and the gun port measurements verified. So I painted several coats of a red paint that I created to the gun ports and painted the wales with several coats of Mars Black. I sanded between each coat with 320 grit sandpaper and with 600 grit before the last coat. I think it looks good so I’m ready to start planking the hull above the wales.
  5. KenW
    Hey Bob. Just discovered this log. You've started off well; keep up the good work. Cheers.
  6. KenW
    I saw the model last night. It looks even better in person. WOW!
  7. KenW
    What you do, especially at that scale, is truly amazing!
  8. KenW
    After posting my last entry, I glued the first level of the wales onto the hull. And then I noticed that the gun ports were ⅛ inch higher on the starboard side than on the port side. So I removed both the wales and the gun ports. And then I went back to the measuring routine. I finally got the same results two days in a row and carefully added a batten marking the location of the top of the wales and then re-did the gun ports. Once I was satisfied with that, I painted the ports and re-glued the first level of the wales onto the hull again. In the photos, the wales are not sanded yet.
  9. KenW
    Thanks Gary. Coming from you, that is a complement indeed. Cheers.
  10. KenW
    It has been taking me quite awhile to get the batons marking the bottom of the wales and the top of the gun port sills. I’m trying to match the plans and it seems like I get what I think is right and the next day it’s off. So I decided that I won’t install the port sills until I can get the batons to be placed correctly for two days in a row. At this point, my bulkheads look like a pin cushion. Finally, I got the measurements correct over two days. So I began framing the gun ports. They should be square and have good corners. Also, they should be placed equdistant apart. I think I’m good. Next up is to mix some red paint that comes close to matching the color on the replica.
  11. KenW
    I've been following this build and I must say - You are modeling on a whole different level; way above what I could do. Really impressive.
  12. KenW
    The placement of the batons marking the location of the wales had to be redone. I took the model to our club’s monthly workshop, and the batons at the bow were determined to be too high. I also redid the ‘working platform’ so that the keel was flat on the base making measuring easier. I redid the baton marking the bottom of the wales and it does look closer to the plans. I’m told that I could make the ‘point’ at the bow even a little lower (maybe 1/16 of an inch). Next I have to determine the exact location of the deck so I can establish the position of the gun port sills. These tasks are taking a lot of time, but I feel it will be extremely important as the building of the model progresses.
  13. KenW
    Thanks Mark. Thanks also to Lou - I download the whole magazine. Cheers.
  14. KenW
    Thanks Frankie. That is great! I bookmarked the site, but is there a way to print it? Thanks again.
  15. KenW
    I’ve ‘completed’ the fairing of the hull. And I added battens to determine the location of the wales. The wales will be between the two battens. I discovered that I wasn’t as careful with the placement of the bulkheads, so I have to do more sanding to fix everything. I’m in the process of determining the location of the gun ports. It’s a slow process. Eventually, everything will have to line up perfectly.
  16. KenW
    Happy New Year! Even during the holidays, I managed to sneak some time in the shipyard. I laid out the stern framing using some leftover cherry and balsa filler. I probably will need more sanding, but I’ll do that as part of the fairing of the hull. I still have lots of sanding dust to make.
  17. KenW
    Great model Dave. Always glad to see your high quality work. Cheers.
  18. KenW
    I completed the ‘below deck’ planking and threw in some furniture just for fun. I don’t know if anyone will be able to see the furniture once the hull is planked and the stair/ladder is added. But, I’ll know it’s there and I know how to look and see it. There is another stairway from the quarter deck down to where the officer’s quarters are, so I added some doors to those ‘rooms’. I attach some photos. Next up is the create stern framing and then I’ll be able to begin fairing the hull.
  19. KenW
    While I was preparing to start gluing the bulkheads on to the frame, I noticed that, on the plans, there is a ladder going from the deck down below. I felt that the ladder should be shown on the model. Therefore, I had to make some adjustments to the appropriate bulkheads and add a lower ‘deck’. The deck is only partial, but it will be visible if you look down the hatch. Also, the ladder is rignt next to the mast so I added wooden mast steps. I also carved some barrels, which I haven’t decided if I’ll use or not.
  20. KenW
    Thanks Hank for reinforcing my thinking. Lots of modeling pleasure to go. Thanks also Jeff. I use a jeweler's saw. The blade is a Pike Swiss Brand Jeweler's Sawblade 2/0. I found them on Amazon. I know I've edited this a couple of times. Thanks for your patience. And thanks Ryland for the 'like'.
  21. KenW
    I finished cutting out the bulkheads. The top parts are left too high; better too big than too small. I also put lines for the wales that should help later. Not much to say, but next I’ll work on the uppers.
  22. KenW
    Work on the model continues and a rather slow pace. I’ve cut out the bulkheads and keel former. I should point out that I didn’t cut out the notch for the mast at this time. Also, the bulkheads are over large. The upper portion does not have the space removed down the middle to the deck. I’ll do that once the bulkheads are fitted to the keel former. I want to see how everything looks before cutting off too much wood. Better to be too big than too small. The pieces look O.K. to me so far. I also fitted the fore-most bulkhead to the keel former and it checks out so far. I made sure the L.W.L. and deck levels line up. Many more bulkheads to go.
  23. KenW
    Hey Bob Good to see you modeling again. I'm building a scratch build and will be looking forward to your blog for guidance. Cheers.
  24. KenW
    Thanks Gary. Your model of the NE Stonington Dragger will be an inspiration. Great work.
  25. KenW
    Just discovered this blog. It's really impressive, and I'll need to read it over to try to learn some of your techniques. Simply well done! Cheers.

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