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KenW

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Everything posted by KenW

  1. KenW
    Thanks Joe. I used boxwood for above the wales and holly below. The wales are basswood sanded and painted. I have to preserve my boxwood and holly. Cheers.
  2. KenW
    Thanks Alan.
  3. KenW
    I sanded down inside of the bulkheads and cut the ends so the hull looks more like a boat. I made a cradle for the boat, although I need to get a wider piece of wood for the base when my arts store is able to open. I decided to have a “false” deck. To do that, I first zeroxed my deck plan and I glued it to two 1/16 inch sheets of wood. I sanded the two pieces down so they fit the deck pretty good. I want to remove the green paper, but I need to map out where everything will be placed before I glue the “false deck” to the bulkheads. I’ve also got to get the warp out of the wood and get the bend so it sits down without pressure. Then I’ll plank the bulwarks and paint them red.
  4. KenW
    Hull planking is complete. I added a molding to cover some problems where the hull planks meet the counter. I used a plain molding since the Providence was a converted merchant boat without much decoration. Next, I’m going to add another plank above the wales to ensure the cap rail will pass over the bowsprint.
  5. KenW
    Thanks for your quick reply on spirketting. I checked my photo library and sure enough; there was spirketting on the HMS Victory I visited at Portsmouth back in 2015.
  6. KenW
    I love to see your workmanship and to read your "tutorials". I'm probably the only one who doesn't know this, but what is a 'spirketting'? Thanks.
  7. KenW
    The starboard side of the hull has been planked. It looks better than my last model, so I’m making progress. The trick is to properly bend the planks. On the aft part of the hull, two edge bends and one normal bend is required. That makes for a weird looking plank. And this plank will still need some adjustments. Photos are attached and you can see some places where I didn’t do enough adjusting. A lot of patience is required.
  8. KenW
    Thanks Mark. I hope to not need stealers or drop planks. So I think I'll alternate; one down and then one up, etc.
  9. KenW
    The middle band is planked. It was much more trickery than the last one. Bending the stern planks was a challenge. It had to be edge bent twice in two different directions, and then a regular bend to place it properly next to the keel former. There were several failures and my trash can became full quickly. Again, I’ve sanded with 80 and 120 grade sandpaper. I will sand with finer grades later and then add the Wipe-on-Poly. I’ll also have to do some paint touch-ups on the wales. Next up is that last band that is next to the keel. I don’t know if I should work from the band just completed or from the keel to the already completed bands. If anyone has a recommendation as to which way I should work, please let me know.
  10. KenW
    Thanks G.L. And thanks to all the likes.
  11. KenW
    The upper band (next to the wales) has been planked. I did a rough sanding and I think it went well. Now I’m creating new paper ‘tick strips’ to account/correct any variations. I’m definately going to have to do another coat of black paint on the wales when the planking is done. But that’s not really a problem. I’m going to do the middle band next and the band that borders the keel last. Comments, etc., are welcome.
  12. KenW
    Hey Mike - hope you're staying healthy. I like your idea to determine the shape of edge bending. I'll have to try it out. Thanks.
  13. KenW
    Hey Dave, Just discovered this log so I’ll be following along. I also have a thing for colonial ships. Your work looks excellent. I don't think I could ever do a plank-on-frame, but yours looks outstanding. So, keep up the outstanding work. Cheers.
  14. KenW
    In order to plank below the wales, I first need to “line off” the hull. I should point out that I consider planking below the wales to be the hardest part of modeling. You need the proper measurements and do all kinds of bending to get the planks to sit properly. Anyway, I completed the “lining off” and can see where I need to make some adjustments. I see the green tape needs to be moved at the stern. Now the fun begins. Stay well and healthy.
  15. KenW
    I hope everyone is hunkered down in their shipyards and remains healthy and safe. The planking above the wales is completed. I used a pencil to simulate the caulking and applied one coat of Wipe-on-Poly. Everything went as it’s supposed to with no problems. I added a block under the keel so the model looks ‘level’ and the water line, but I think the block is too much. I’ll work that out when I finish planking and make a cradle later on.
  16. KenW
    The wales have been sanded and the gun port measurements verified. So I painted several coats of a red paint that I created to the gun ports and painted the wales with several coats of Mars Black. I sanded between each coat with 320 grit sandpaper and with 600 grit before the last coat. I think it looks good so I’m ready to start planking the hull above the wales.
  17. KenW
    Hey Bob. Just discovered this log. You've started off well; keep up the good work. Cheers.
  18. KenW
    I saw the model last night. It looks even better in person. WOW!
  19. KenW
    What you do, especially at that scale, is truly amazing!
  20. KenW
    After posting my last entry, I glued the first level of the wales onto the hull. And then I noticed that the gun ports were ⅛ inch higher on the starboard side than on the port side. So I removed both the wales and the gun ports. And then I went back to the measuring routine. I finally got the same results two days in a row and carefully added a batten marking the location of the top of the wales and then re-did the gun ports. Once I was satisfied with that, I painted the ports and re-glued the first level of the wales onto the hull again. In the photos, the wales are not sanded yet.
  21. KenW
    Thanks Gary. Coming from you, that is a complement indeed. Cheers.
  22. KenW
    It has been taking me quite awhile to get the batons marking the bottom of the wales and the top of the gun port sills. I’m trying to match the plans and it seems like I get what I think is right and the next day it’s off. So I decided that I won’t install the port sills until I can get the batons to be placed correctly for two days in a row. At this point, my bulkheads look like a pin cushion. Finally, I got the measurements correct over two days. So I began framing the gun ports. They should be square and have good corners. Also, they should be placed equdistant apart. I think I’m good. Next up is to mix some red paint that comes close to matching the color on the replica.
  23. KenW
    I've been following this build and I must say - You are modeling on a whole different level; way above what I could do. Really impressive.
  24. KenW
    The placement of the batons marking the location of the wales had to be redone. I took the model to our club’s monthly workshop, and the batons at the bow were determined to be too high. I also redid the ‘working platform’ so that the keel was flat on the base making measuring easier. I redid the baton marking the bottom of the wales and it does look closer to the plans. I’m told that I could make the ‘point’ at the bow even a little lower (maybe 1/16 of an inch). Next I have to determine the exact location of the deck so I can establish the position of the gun port sills. These tasks are taking a lot of time, but I feel it will be extremely important as the building of the model progresses.
  25. KenW
    Thanks Mark. Thanks also to Lou - I download the whole magazine. Cheers.

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