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KenW

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  1. KenW
    Thanks Bruce. Plenty of room. Thanks for the 'likes' as well. Cheers.
  2. KenW
    I’ve been busy with chores around the house, but work on the Providence continues. I wanted to explain, in more detail, the process of creating the paper bulkheads. The plan comes with a view of the hull that is unusual (at least to me). The left side of the view shows the hull from the stern, and the right side shows the hull from the bow. There are lines on the plan that shows the outline of each bulkhead. So I made several copies of this plan. Then I cut out each bulkhead half twice, turn one half over and tape them carefully together. I know that the quality of this photo isn’t very good, but the plan is clearer in real life. Next I glue the paper bulkheads and the paper keel former to a sheet of, in this case, basswood.
  3. KenW
    I started the process by making extra copies of the reduced plans. The dimension of each bulkhead is located on one plan. So I have to make several copies of that plan and parse out each bulkhead. I wanted to have as many bulkheads as possible which should make planking easier. Then I matched the size of each bulkhead with the plan showing the boat along its center; this will become the keel former. Once I was satisfied that the sizes matched, I cut out the keel former and each bulkhead. The first photo shows the paper bulkheads and their plan. The second is the plan of the center and the paper keel former. Now the next step is to glue each paper part to a sheet of basswood and cut the pieces out. I’m sure there will be some alterations once the pieces are fitted together.
  4. KenW
    In order to build a model of the Providence I needed to acquire a set of plans. The book, “Valour Fore and Aft”, contains plans of a replica that was built for the American bi-centennial celebrations back in 1976. The replica was built and used for charter sails from Newport, RI. In 2015, while in dry dock, a winter storm blew the boat off its jackstays. It took 2 years to repair and restore the damage. In 2017, it was sold to the Tall Ship Providence Foundation and moved to Alexandra, VA. I contacted the foundation and they sent me a set of plans of the restored vessel. So I’m currently copying them and reducing their scale to 1:48, or ¼ inch equals a foot. My intention is to make a Plank-on-Bulkhead model because that is what my experience is limited to.
  5. KenW
    Thanks Chuck. My first model was of the AVS, so I have the plans, etc. I'm sure I'll have some issues as I go along, but that's part of the fun. Thanks also to Frankie. Your entry about your experience rigging the replica was an inspiration for me to build this ship. Cheers.
  6. KenW
    My next model will be the Continental Sloop Providence. I became interested in this boat after reading, “Valour Fore & Aft”, by Hope Rider. Despite being a history of the boat, the book was a great swashbuckling story. I recommend it. The boat was built by a Rhode Island merchant named John Brown several years before the American Revolution and was named the Katy. The sloop was converted to a privateer and commanded by three excellent captains, and during its voyages, achieved several ‘firsts’ for the Continental navy. The first captain was Abraham Wipple. The Katy, under the command of Captain Wipple, was the first ship to be chosen by the Continental Congress to perform naval service. It was the first colonial flagship and fired the first broadside during the Revolutionary War at sea. It also captured the first Brittish naval ship. In late 1775 the sloop’s name was changed to the Providence. In 1776, command of the sloop Providence was given to the newly promoted John Paul Jones. (Later Captain Wipple was given command of a new continental frigate also called the Providence.) Of the three captains, John Paul Jones succeeded in taking the most Brittish prizes. In 1777, command was given to John Peck Rathbun who was one of the sloop’s Lieutenants. Under the command of John Rathbun, Providence was the first Colonial ship to land marines on a foreign soil. Also, she was the first to fly the Continental colors over foreign territory. She captured Fort Nassau and held the town until valuable military supplies were removed and several Brittish ships taken as prizes. The Providence met its end as part of the disasterous Penobscot Expedition in 1779. She was forced up the Penobscot River in Maine and burnt to prevent its capture by the Brittish.
  7. KenW
    Thanks to MtZigg, Mark, Dave and Sea Hoss for your kind words. Thanks to all the likes as well.
  8. KenW
    The anchors were installed, including the buoys. Plus I chose the Ensign of the New England Navy. It was in use from 1775 through 1777. I’m flying it from the gaff. To make it I followed Chuck Passaro’s method from his log of his kit of the Queen Anne Barge which can be found at ‘https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/12476-syren-ship-model-company-news-and-forthcoming-new-projects-products/&page=34’. His method worked and I’m really pleased with the flag. As a result, the model is finished. I attach some final photos.
  9. KenW
    It’s taken me awhile, but I’ve added the rudder pendents and six aft swivels. I’ve spent more than a week carving out the anchors (I can’t use the kit provided die cast anchors since they are too big). So I just need to install the anchors and the two remaining swivels; and then I need to make the ensign. I also made a pawl for the windlass. Almost there.
  10. KenW
    Outstanding!
  11. KenW
    Thanks Bob, Mark and E.J. for your kind comments. I enjoyed working on the ship, and it's not done yet. Cheers.
  12. KenW
    I’ve finished the rigging of the model. I’m not totally pleased with the way it came out because the shrouds and back stays are so loose. I only hope that when the weather turns dryer the lines tighten up a bit. Included are many rope coils to give that finished look. The fore and main bits are especially crowded. The remaining posts for the swivel guns were also glued in place. That means all that is left to do is install the rudder pendants, anchor, swivel guns and ensign. So the end is in sight. Some more photos -
  13. KenW
    Both both models look great. Please bring them both to our next meeting. BTW - There is an editing feature on an iPhone. You can adjust the color if need be. Cheers.
  14. KenW
    Thanks Nils; and for all the likes.
  15. KenW
    Big Thanks to JerseyCity Frankie for this photo of a furled gaff topsail. I guess my efforts aren't too far off base. I still think I can make my furl neater. Thanks again Frankie.
  16. KenW
    I’ve been working on the two remaining sails: the gaff topsail and the main topmast staysail. I made both sails and started by attaching the staysail to the main topmast stay and then attempting to furl it. I couldn’t get a furled sail that looked reasonable. However, I read in Darcy Lever’s , “The Young Sea Officer’s Sheet Anchor”, that the staysail was either brought down to the foremast and made into a bundle that was stored on the top. Or, it is taken down and stored below. My boat doesn’t have a top and my bundle looked horrible so I decided to store the sail below deck. I left the halyard hooked to the stay block and considered the problem solved. I wanted the gaff topsail, however, to be furled and seen. The furled bundle is nowhere as bad as the staysail, but … I do know that I need to replace the gaskets; and I may consider adding a silkspan covering, if I can, to make the bundle look more appealing. Any suggestions would be welcome.
  17. KenW
    The fore topmast yard and sail were installed without too much trouble. The shrouds were also added as well as the fore topmast stay and back stay. One thing I noticed is that the way I’m tying off the rigging is very similar to the rigging plan that came with the kit. The differences are that I’ve given all the stays and fore topmast yard lifts the ability to be adjusted. I believe this was done on all ships. One thing the rigging plan, and my rigging, have in common is that the fore bit is becoming very crowded. I’m going to have a major task when I glue and trim all those lines and then add rope coils to that bit. The deck looks very messy now, but I hope to change that soon.
  18. KenW
    Since the last entry I’ve added the furled fore staysail and the jib. Both were made from silkspan as described earlier and the furling was based on previous research. I think the ‘look’ is good. The mainstay was added but not finished or tied off. Also, I decided to use footlopes or ‘horses’ rather than the netting that came with the original kit. Somehow the net didn’t look right to me. I made netting, so if I’m challenged, I can always change my mind. I’m constantly changing the rigging plans from the kit to be more in line with my limited experience and research. As a result, the boat looks less and less like the kit’s instructions and photos. I hope I haven’t created a boat that is completely different from what existed at the time. Next up is the fore topmast yard and sail. I feel I'm getting closer to the end.
  19. KenW
    Looks excellent. I like the color scheme.
  20. KenW
    Good photos. I feel like I’m walking below decks. Of course that means the model-making is excellent as well.
  21. KenW
    Why are all of you posting your conversations in my blog that was completed 4-5 years ago? Abelson please start your own blog. Thanks.
  22. KenW
    Abelson: Do you have a question? I haven't looked at this blog in 3-4 years. I'll try to remember, or I tell you more answers based on my current research. Thanks.
  23. KenW
    Glad to see you started a log. Looks like you got off to. A great start. Cheers.
  24. KenW
    I added the standing rigging in the bow section; specifically the forestay and jib stay. I’m exploring ways to rig all the lines and not use too many timberheads or space on the bitts. I always worry about not having enough room to tie off all the lines. I did use two timberheads, but I think everything is going well and I’ll find the space somewhere.
  25. KenW
    Thanks MtZigg. Hope your model comes out great. Cheers.

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