HSM

The type of plates, the surface they were glued to, and the way they were attached is important. If you can detail this we can probably offer better assistance.

I use acrylic paints from the craft store almost exclusively. They are cheap and easy to find, come in thousands of colors and stick very well to wood or properly primed metal and plastic. I don't see a need for special model paints. 30+ ship models later I haven't seen a reason to change!

I use acrylic paints from the craft store almost exclusively. They are cheap and easy to find, come in thousands of colors and stick very well to wood or properly primed metal and plastic. I don't see a need for special model paints. 30+ ship models later I haven't seen a reason to change!

Agreed the first power tool should be a dremel, but since you already have that, and full-sized versions of the rest....
 
IMHO the best tool to get you started ship building would be a miniature table saw. The rest of the full-sized tools can be used to make miniature stuff with some limtations.
 
Most hardware store 5" disc/belt sanders work better than the model sized versions because they have more power and rotational inertia if you are sanding frames or other larger items.
 
A full-sized drill press will work as well as (probably better than) a miniature one as long as the chuck can accept very small drill bits.
 
If you're kit-building I'm not sure how often you'd use a lathe for ship building. In my 30+ models I have used a lathe maybe 12 times (I have access to one at work). More often than not I can chuck a piece of wood in the drill press and use files to turn railings or whatever I need.
 
This is my experience, might not work for everyone, but it works for me!

Agreed the first power tool should be a dremel, but since you already have that, and full-sized versions of the rest....
 
IMHO the best tool to get you started ship building would be a miniature table saw. The rest of the full-sized tools can be used to make miniature stuff with some limtations.
 
Most hardware store 5" disc/belt sanders work better than the model sized versions because they have more power and rotational inertia if you are sanding frames or other larger items.
 
A full-sized drill press will work as well as (probably better than) a miniature one as long as the chuck can accept very small drill bits.
 
If you're kit-building I'm not sure how often you'd use a lathe for ship building. In my 30+ models I have used a lathe maybe 12 times (I have access to one at work). More often than not I can chuck a piece of wood in the drill press and use files to turn railings or whatever I need.
 
This is my experience, might not work for everyone, but it works for me!

I use acrylic paints from the craft store almost exclusively. They are cheap and easy to find, come in thousands of colors and stick very well to wood or properly primed metal and plastic. I don't see a need for special model paints. 30+ ship models later I haven't seen a reason to change!

I use acrylic paints from the craft store almost exclusively. They are cheap and easy to find, come in thousands of colors and stick very well to wood or properly primed metal and plastic. I don't see a need for special model paints. 30+ ship models later I haven't seen a reason to change!

I use acrylic paints from the craft store almost exclusively. They are cheap and easy to find, come in thousands of colors and stick very well to wood or properly primed metal and plastic. I don't see a need for special model paints. 30+ ship models later I haven't seen a reason to change!

I've always resisted making full sails because I don't think I have ever seen them look like sails do in full scale, full of wind. Not saying it's impossible but it would take a ridiculous amount of effort to make it look good. Model material can't possibly mimic the stiffness or flexibility and the way gravity acts on full-sized fabric and rope.
 
I do like the look of partly furled sails if made from silkspan or similar material though. They can look very realistic.

That's quite an ingenious device. Thanks for posting it!

That's quite an ingenious device. Thanks for posting it!

I've always resisted making full sails because I don't think I have ever seen them look like sails do in full scale, full of wind. Not saying it's impossible but it would take a ridiculous amount of effort to make it look good. Model material can't possibly mimic the stiffness or flexibility and the way gravity acts on full-sized fabric and rope.
 
I do like the look of partly furled sails if made from silkspan or similar material though. They can look very realistic.

I've always resisted making full sails because I don't think I have ever seen them look like sails do in full scale, full of wind. Not saying it's impossible but it would take a ridiculous amount of effort to make it look good. Model material can't possibly mimic the stiffness or flexibility and the way gravity acts on full-sized fabric and rope.
 
I do like the look of partly furled sails if made from silkspan or similar material though. They can look very realistic.

If this is a legacy piece that will be a family memento of your Opa, and you can commit to finishing it off that is great! But ship model building and especially a complicated subject like the Vasa can be very daunting. We have discussed often the number of kits that are started with good intentions and then are left unfinished.
 
Completing a legacy model is kind of like restoring a damaged one, and the philosophy there is to use as much of the original parts and techniques as possible, and for the completion or restoration to appear as if the model were made by the original builder, start to finish.
 
Start by making the masts and see how the process goes. Evaluate how much you like spending time at it, and what chance you give yourself to see it through to completion. If you are still excited about it when it comes time to start rigging or permanently glueing your new stuff to the model then carry on! Keeping it within the family is of course the best way to go. The suggestion to start with a small model to build some skills is a very good one.
 
Building and rigging a ship model is actually quite easy and doable for someone moderately skilled with their hands, it's just that those easy tasks have to be done hundreds of time before you are done! Perseverance is more important than raw skill. You have a long-term project, and more of a marathon than a sprint so understand that it may take a year or more.
 
If  you don't enjoy the process, or you lose steam or interest then consider having someone else complete the model before permanently altering the existing work. Perhaps there is another family member that could do it, or you could hire a professional to do the job.
 
I have done several restorations and completed one legacy model (Constitution, from the masts-up) and I am sure others on this list could complete the job as well, if you decide to go that way. Just something to consider.

If this is a legacy piece that will be a family memento of your Opa, and you can commit to finishing it off that is great! But ship model building and especially a complicated subject like the Vasa can be very daunting. We have discussed often the number of kits that are started with good intentions and then are left unfinished.
 
Completing a legacy model is kind of like restoring a damaged one, and the philosophy there is to use as much of the original parts and techniques as possible, and for the completion or restoration to appear as if the model were made by the original builder, start to finish.
 
Start by making the masts and see how the process goes. Evaluate how much you like spending time at it, and what chance you give yourself to see it through to completion. If you are still excited about it when it comes time to start rigging or permanently glueing your new stuff to the model then carry on! Keeping it within the family is of course the best way to go. The suggestion to start with a small model to build some skills is a very good one.
 
Building and rigging a ship model is actually quite easy and doable for someone moderately skilled with their hands, it's just that those easy tasks have to be done hundreds of time before you are done! Perseverance is more important than raw skill. You have a long-term project, and more of a marathon than a sprint so understand that it may take a year or more.
 
If  you don't enjoy the process, or you lose steam or interest then consider having someone else complete the model before permanently altering the existing work. Perhaps there is another family member that could do it, or you could hire a professional to do the job.
 
I have done several restorations and completed one legacy model (Constitution, from the masts-up) and I am sure others on this list could complete the job as well, if you decide to go that way. Just something to consider.

If this is a legacy piece that will be a family memento of your Opa, and you can commit to finishing it off that is great! But ship model building and especially a complicated subject like the Vasa can be very daunting. We have discussed often the number of kits that are started with good intentions and then are left unfinished.
 
Completing a legacy model is kind of like restoring a damaged one, and the philosophy there is to use as much of the original parts and techniques as possible, and for the completion or restoration to appear as if the model were made by the original builder, start to finish.
 
Start by making the masts and see how the process goes. Evaluate how much you like spending time at it, and what chance you give yourself to see it through to completion. If you are still excited about it when it comes time to start rigging or permanently glueing your new stuff to the model then carry on! Keeping it within the family is of course the best way to go. The suggestion to start with a small model to build some skills is a very good one.
 
Building and rigging a ship model is actually quite easy and doable for someone moderately skilled with their hands, it's just that those easy tasks have to be done hundreds of time before you are done! Perseverance is more important than raw skill. You have a long-term project, and more of a marathon than a sprint so understand that it may take a year or more.
 
If  you don't enjoy the process, or you lose steam or interest then consider having someone else complete the model before permanently altering the existing work. Perhaps there is another family member that could do it, or you could hire a professional to do the job.
 
I have done several restorations and completed one legacy model (Constitution, from the masts-up) and I am sure others on this list could complete the job as well, if you decide to go that way. Just something to consider.

I loved building the Panart Armed Launch. It is a large scale, 1:17. There is minimal painting to be done so the beauty of the wood is evident, but the finished model still looks realistic without the "craft" appearance of an all-wood model. The wood is very nice and the brass cannon and swivel guns are heavy and awesome! The hull is tripple-planked on a removable former. I first saw this in Period Ship Handbook 2 by Keith Julier and fell in love with the pictures. I've built 2 of these kits and would do more.
 
http://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/panart/ma748-mantua-panart-armed-launch-wood-ship-kit.html

I use Krylon leafing pens and love them.
 
Have had the gold for maybe 10 years and it still flows nicely. The liquid comes out a little thick and dries with some thickness and that can be either good or bad. If you are coating something with fine detail it might soften the valleys a bit, but if it is a casting from an old mold and maybe with bubbles it fills in the imperfections and looks very good to my eye.
 
I bought mine at Michael's craft store, but here is an amazon link. http://www.amazon.ca/Krylon-Leafing-Gold-Paint-ANK9901/dp/B003ZTNENS

I use Krylon leafing pens and love them.
 
Have had the gold for maybe 10 years and it still flows nicely. The liquid comes out a little thick and dries with some thickness and that can be either good or bad. If you are coating something with fine detail it might soften the valleys a bit, but if it is a casting from an old mold and maybe with bubbles it fills in the imperfections and looks very good to my eye.
 
I bought mine at Michael's craft store, but here is an amazon link. http://www.amazon.ca/Krylon-Leafing-Gold-Paint-ANK9901/dp/B003ZTNENS

I agree that compressed air is compressed air, no matter how it is made or how much the compressor cost. Everything involves compromise and you will have to give something up to get something else. Low cost, quiet operation, small size, useful for other things, smooth airflow... It's a personal preference balancing act.
 
I generally don't buy hobby equipment (except for my Preac table saw) because they are made for hobby-sized jobs and can't be used for much else. My drill-press is from Canadian tire and takes a #80 bit, my compressor can blow up a car tire or power an air-nailer, and it works marvelously with my airbrush.

I agree that compressed air is compressed air, no matter how it is made or how much the compressor cost. Everything involves compromise and you will have to give something up to get something else. Low cost, quiet operation, small size, useful for other things, smooth airflow... It's a personal preference balancing act.
 
I generally don't buy hobby equipment (except for my Preac table saw) because they are made for hobby-sized jobs and can't be used for much else. My drill-press is from Canadian tire and takes a #80 bit, my compressor can blow up a car tire or power an air-nailer, and it works marvelously with my airbrush.

I loved building the Panart Armed Launch. It is a large scale, 1:17. There is minimal painting to be done so the beauty of the wood is evident, but the finished model still looks realistic without the "craft" appearance of an all-wood model. The wood is very nice and the brass cannon and swivel guns are heavy and awesome! The hull is tripple-planked on a removable former. I first saw this in Period Ship Handbook 2 by Keith Julier and fell in love with the pictures. I've built 2 of these kits and would do more.
 
http://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/panart/ma748-mantua-panart-armed-launch-wood-ship-kit.html

I loved building the Panart Armed Launch. It is a large scale, 1:17. There is minimal painting to be done so the beauty of the wood is evident, but the finished model still looks realistic without the "craft" appearance of an all-wood model. The wood is very nice and the brass cannon and swivel guns are heavy and awesome! The hull is tripple-planked on a removable former. I first saw this in Period Ship Handbook 2 by Keith Julier and fell in love with the pictures. I've built 2 of these kits and would do more.
 
http://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/panart/ma748-mantua-panart-armed-launch-wood-ship-kit.html

I loved building the Panart Armed Launch. It is a large scale, 1:17. There is minimal painting to be done so the beauty of the wood is evident, but the finished model still looks realistic without the "craft" appearance of an all-wood model. The wood is very nice and the brass cannon and swivel guns are heavy and awesome! The hull is tripple-planked on a removable former. I first saw this in Period Ship Handbook 2 by Keith Julier and fell in love with the pictures. I've built 2 of these kits and would do more.
 
http://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/panart/ma748-mantua-panart-armed-launch-wood-ship-kit.html

For CA I use toothpicks and an aluminum foil glue pot.
 
I "fork" the tip of a toothpick with a knife and dip that tip in the glue. When it's loaded with gunk I fork the other end or throw it out and use a new one.
 
I have a piece of scrap wood with some ~8mm holes drilled in it. I pull off a bit of aluminum foil and press it into the hole to create a glue pot. Have the aluminum big enough to fold over the edges of the wood or it will lift with the toothpick when you lift it up.
 
Dirt cheap and makes for very controllable glue applications. Works for me!