Captain Al

Well I took off the 4 deadeyes (which AL has labeled 500s) 2 on the sides and 2 hanging below. I didn't like the way they hung so low anyway -- too much becket even though it matched the plans. I'm about to start working on replacing these with the 501 hearts as CP has suggested and which look quite good in the pix he's added above. But then I re-read JeffE's comments above and hope Jeff can confirm what CP and I seem to be doing. Jeff, you refer to the 5 "500" blocks (I need to find the fifth one) which are for the bobstays and the bowsprit shrouds. Because they are labeled 500, is the reason I first put on the 4mm deadeyes. But now we're thinking that these should be hearts -- which if I interpret AL's parts list correctly, would be 501s. Jeff, do you think that these are deadeyes or hearts? I think AL simply mislabeled them as 500 when they should have had a 501 designation. As an aside, at this point I have over 90 small (4mm) deadeye blocks, about 75 large deadeyes (5mm), and 14 hearts. CP, you only got 6 hearts in your kit? Is it a new kit? Mine was mfr'd almost 10 years ago. Things are getting sloppy at AL. Or, does the small number of Hearts you have maybe make you think that these hearts actually are 500 (small) deadeyes? I'm buying into the mislabeling and AL shorting you a bunch of hearts. Just from the pix you posted I can't see how that rigging would connect to deadeyes, and there is no purpose to deadeyes for the functions that Jeff indicates. I have some other work to do anyway, so I'm going to wait another day to see what you guys think before tying on hearts that might need to be deadeyes; or vice versa. Boyd, I hope this helps you when you get there. Its really been the most perplexing issue so far in this build.

Very cool pix. Thanks a lot CP.

Captain AI, recently I realized that instead of using deadeyes (# 500) you should place closed hearts (4), two in-line and two on the sides.I hope it's not late to change this. CP, I actually think I discovered that as well. I need to go look at the ship. No, I did use deadeyes. I could change them if its going to make a real big difference in how its rigged -- which I would think it will. How did you conclude that part 500 is a heart and not a deadeye? That was an issue I couldn't resolve for a long time. I finally decided that AL was using the terms "clump block" and "deadeye" for the same thing. I think I used the German word under the illustration to reach that conclusion; something like Klampfenblocken (lol). Anyway, this is something I will now need to review and decide on what to do. BTW, when you say "closed hearts" you are referring to those blocks that are shaped like a triangle and have one hole in the center. I don't find the term "hearts" anywhere in AL's stuff. They refer to these as "dead blocks" as opposed to "deadeyes." I thought these were part 501 and have put them on where the layout indicates 501s should go. If it helps you at all, I received some good feedback on these bowsprit blocks when I posted a topic called something like "How to Make a block lie parallel v. perpendicular." under Rigging forum. It should be there still. I haven't checked that thread out for a long time.

Hey Boyd/Brian, I just wanted to comment that I also neglected to notch those beams down below for the pipes but in a way I'm glad I did. It could be tricky locating the exact spot to put the notches before running the pipes down through the top deck and seeing where they are going to hit the beams. I used a long round file to cut out the notches. Painstaking but effective. Also, there is a lot of good African walnut left on the templates after removing cut out pieces. You can easily find pieces that can be used in place of 5x5 material in a pinch -- with a bit of sanding of course. Which brings to mind something I may have noted long ago. If you haven't already planked, the all time best tool I've bought for this work is a little thumb plane made by Buck and sold in Home Depot for $8. For tapering the edge of a plank, nothing worked better.

Sorry everyone for bringing up that quirk in the program's editor. I just now noticed that no matter how bad it looks when I'm tying the reply, when it actually posts the carriage returns (and split words) have been corrected. Isn't it nice when you discover something technical actually works right.

Thank you to all who have recently found my log and commented. Boyd, I never get email notification from MSW even though I have asked for it. I will check out my personal inbox more often. Again, thanks for the interest. Note another quirk here -- for some reason this program editor puts carriage returns in all the wrong places. Maybe there is a way to adjust that but since it just started a couple weeks ago I doubt its something that I can make right. CP, thank you for the offer of more detailed pix and info. Right now I'm good (I think) but I know I will need help with the masts. Can I avail myself of your personal email (on this site I mean) when the time comes? You've all been an inspiration (what with all the flattery) for me to get back and spend some real time at the bench, so hopefully I'll begin filling this log with some progress reports instead of questions.

Thanks for the inquiry Boyd. Yeah, I've been hung up on the bowsprit due to my inability to interpret the plans. My queries on LADon's log finally paid off and a kind gentleman named Captain Poison just today sent me two nice close up pix which explains a lot. There's been a lot going on in my life besides model building anyway, so progress has been slow regardless of the bowsprit. I've been jumping around in terms of the order of things and once the sprit is done and in place I think I'll work on the launch. I did the jolly boat early on and it was a lot of fun.

Wow, where have you been all my life Capt. P? These are first real closeups I've seen and now it makes some sense. I've done the inserted sheave in the sprit but til now didn't know what was going to go through it. So it looks like the ring, with its hooks, block and sheaves, will slide forward and aft. How clever; seriously. I wonder if you have any more closeups of your bowsprit and if I'd be imposing to ask to see them. Regardless, a million thanks for these. I'm inspired to get back to the bench.

Thank you DS, these pix will be helpful. What I'm concluding is that almost everyone deviates from the less than adequate AL plans. And that is what I will have to do. The most confusing thing in the plans is where it shows 2 sheaves (part 281s) at the far outboard end of the sprit, attached to the sprit (seemingly) by a copper ring 8mm in diameter. I've never seen a "sheave" attached this way (I don't see how it can be done and still have the sheave spin -- aren't sheaves normally on a axle?). And I've not come across anyone elses build that put them on. So perhaps this is just another misprinted part number. Looks like I will put as many blocks on as are obvious or which I see on other builds. Then I'll just have to wait to rig the thing to see if they're in the right places and if I have too many or not enough. From there I can decide if I want to jury rig or try to be accurate. Thanks again for you help.

McKay clearly shows the ship to be copper plated on p. 55. That being said, I've looked at logs of probably 10 Bounty builds and I think I recall only one being plated. I tip my hat to anyone who has completed this build in less than a year. I'm now going on 18 months now and still have not even built my masts. In fact I'm just working on the bowsprit and its giving me fits as to what fittings go where. I am really disappointed in AL's plans and photos at this stage. They leave you in the dark just when you need photos the most. I've searched all the Bounty logs I can on this site and others and cannot come up with any detailed closeups of the bowsprit. If anyone reading this has done a Bounty sprit and is willing to take some and post them, I'd be forever in debted to them.

I just discovered your this build log and will follow it closely. I've got a build log of this same Bounty kit going. I'm into it for the same reason you are -- a gift from someone. I too was impressed by the plans, instructions and pictures....until they petered out just when you start needing explanations and close up pictures the most. I think AL is Spanish, not Italian but I may be wrong. The translations are not as good as you'd imagine; lots of ambiguous descriptions of the various kinds of blocks. Tip: refer to the plans which show pictures of the blocks and then get a Spanish-English dictionary. This will help distinguish between double and single and hearts and clump blocks. But all in all it is a good kit and you should have fun. Most of my problems initially had to do with a warped false keel and frames that did not want to line up fair. The single planking is challenging but doable. As a complete novice, if I can make it look good so can you. Finally, I hope you have a lot of display room. This model ends up taking lots of space.

Good job, LA. I like the fact that you're proceeding in tune with what you think is best and according to your abilities and not feeling trapped by the kit mfr's instructions and supplies. Seems like you planked the starboard side a lot more than I did (and kit's plans) and it looks good. Your stanchions for the railing looks great. Looks like your rebates (cut out holes in the decking) lined up perfectly and were just the right size. I had to do a lot of filing to get some of my stanchions and Samson posts to fit. Its coming along nicely and now you can have some fun with deck furniture etc.

If you're committed to double planking, which I guess you are, then not to worry much about the tapering. All you want to do at this point is to cover all the frames and prepare for the final planking. I take it you will use a much thinner plank on the second go round than the 2mm planks supplied by the A.L. That will make it a lot easier to bend the walnut. But seriously think ahead about the tapering. Its deceiving how much really needs to be done. I thought I was doing a lot and doing it early enough but still I found I had to end up ending several lines of planks on another line of planks instead of at the stem. I never tried using CA glue on wet wood. Does it hold well? I always clamped my wet wood to the frames and let them dry. Then I glued them with PVA glue, occasionally using CA to hold it in place where a clamp could not be easily applied. Remember, if this were your final planking, the wood will probably dry and leave gaps. It doesn't look like that's happening, but its something to be wary of if its your cosmetic top planking.

Looking good LA. Sounds like you're finding the basswood workable as I did. Question though -- how far down are you going with the basswood? My kit called for just 6 basswood planks so that's what I put on. Are you doing this cause you've decided on double planking it? The other thing I can point out from my experience is that if this is to be single planked, then it looks like you've not done nearly enough (any?) tapering as you approach the bow. My guess is that you'll run out of room up there long before you've filled up the midsection. Have you started tapering?

I'll let the historians answer that LA, but I do know that a painted hull hides a lot more blunders than a natural finish. But that's a negative sort of approach. I know I just like the beauty of the natural finish with a semi glossy sheen to it. For me the historical authenticity never was (or will be) my primary goal.

Great answer Danny. And thanks for referencing Syren as a supplier for thread. I'll soon be in need. I assume they have a web site. If you're using .3mm thread on blocks that are 3 or 3.5mm, then the thread I've been using (suggested by the kit's plans and parts list) of .15 and .25 are a tad small -- particularly the .15. I think I relegate the .15 stuff to lashings and go with the .25 on 3mm blocks until I can get something bigger (and darker in color).

I think I should retract my initial agreement. What I was meaning to say was that I had a hard time distinguishing between .15mm and .25mm thread and I think I sometimes use one instead of the other and then once on the blocks I can't remember or tell which is which. The example shown -- is that an example of good scale or poor scale? It looks good to me. Tell me, when putting thread around a block, should the thread extend a bit above the groove, lay perfectly level with the surface of the block, or fall a tad bit into the groove? As I said, this pic looks good to me and it seems the rope is just slightly higher than the groove it sits in.

Unbelievably beautiful detail work Boyd. This sets the bar mighty high for all us builders. That little lathe of yours got some duty. But the planning and craftsmanship are truly brilliant.

When I needed to steam I did this ..... after soaking while the wood was still quite wet I clamped it at one end to the frame it would sit on. Then, if it didn't bend nicely around the hull and I thought it was going to break I took out my soldering iron. I would soak a small piece of rag and apply the hot iron over the wet rag on top of the plank. Lots of steam is generated. Most of the time this worked very well. And btw, unlike some other folks, I never pre bent the plank on a jig and let it dry before putting onto the frames. I always used the frames and shape of the hull as my 'jig.' Then after it was in place wet on the frames I waited til it was thoroughly dry and took it off in order to apply the glue to the right spots. Another thing I did when the plank was dry but still on the frames was to mark on the plank where it hit each frame so I could apply a dab of glue just to that spot on the inside of the plank. Its obvious where to put the glue on the frame (and I always like to glue both surfaces). The hard part of all this will be when you just can't figure out how to clamp the frame down to dry it.

I see what you're doing now. I couldn't figure out how a round hole would make any difference (and actually it doesn't) to how the pigtails lie once they are down through the holes. But now what I guess you're saying is that after you tie them up you twist the block 90 degrees to make it sit parallel to the spar and then you drop the glue in which holds it in that position. I agree entirely about the scale etc.

Good luck with that. I'll be very impressed if you can do it in that time frame. Of course I'm a slow learner but it took me closer to 4 or 5 months to plank. So much time though was spent on theorizing and trying to do it the right way. I know it can be done the "wrong" way and still come out really nicely -- because in the long run that's what I probably did.

One more thing on tapering -- this is where the drop planks come in -- you will undoubtedly find that at some point you just can't get the number of planks you want in to fill up a section because you really don't want to taper down to more than half the width of the plank (in our case we have 5mm planks so you'll want to only taper to about 2.5mm give or take a bit). So you may find for example that you have six planks running into a section that is only 13 mm wide. You'd have to taper to 2.167 mm to fit them all in. Instead, you use a drop plank and go to 5 planks to fill the 13mm. Now you can taper each to 2.6. If only it worked so easily in practice as it sounds on paper.

If I recall, when I finally started tapering, I started at least a third to half way back. After you've laid down several full strakes (another word it seems for planks but meaning the full length of the ship) you'll start to see where to start tapering. This is where I think some of the theoretical techniques come in very handy. The whole point of it is to fit the same number of planks into an ever decreasing amount of space and to do it with equal tapering of each plank. I found as well that gluing on string or thread battens which divide the hull into sections vertically will give you a great visual idea of how you want the planks to lay, and you'll actually be able to measure the widths of the sections to fill. Then you divide the width into equal size planks for each station moving from midship to bow or stern. Like at midship you might want to lay 6 planks of 5mm each into a section that is 30 mm wide. That starts you out with full width planks. As you move forward you'll see that the same 6 planks need to fit into a 24 mm space, so you'll need to taper from 5 to 4 mm at that point. I can recommend a little tool for your tapering that worked wonders for me -- its a little mini plane made by Buck (same as the knives) and sold at Home Depot for $8. If you choose to try to run a plank all the way from bow to stern (on our ship its about 630 mm and the planking provided is 700 mm) you'll need a vice with some very long jaws to hold it while you taper. I found it easier (and I think better looking and more authentic) to break the strake into at least 3 parts, making the tapering of each easier. You can find much better tricks and techniques elsewhere on this site, but I just thought I'd toss out these. I hope I'm not sounding like I've done lots of planking or that I've got it down pat. Even though I managed to make my Bounty hull look pretty nice, I still dread my next go round.

Got it re each pigtail going around one full turn to knot on the bottom. Thanks for that reminder. I've already tied on two blocks to my bowsprit only going around half turn each and knotting on the bottom -- and it does look a bit flimsy. As for the block sitting on the spar with its face parallel or perpendicular to the spar.... other than an eye at the bottom of the stropping and then an independent lashing running through the eye and around the spar, I haven't found a way to make the block face parallel to the spar. Does your hole in the spar method address that at all?

I don't think I'm getting it wq, I understand the process you're using and it probably makes for a secure block to spar attachment. But I can't see how a hole through which the two pigtails of stropping go through does anything to align the block either parallel or perpendicular to the spar. Also, after you've come through the hole and wrap around the spar, you will be tying the know on top of the spar next to the block rather than underneath the spar -- unless you've wrapped twice, which Dan says (in all caps) is not to be done. Maybe the easiest answer is what I knowingly did on some of my cannon rigging. Instead of stropping the block at all I put an eyebolt into it and oriented the eye so the block would hold in the orientation I needed. I should have at least painted on some fake stropping around the block, but I didn't. First build; can't think of everything.