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barkeater

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Everything posted by barkeater

  1. barkeater
    Here's beech for comparison
  2. barkeater
    There was some variation in length for a given ball weight. Larger canons were longer and would be placed on lower decks for stability. I have never heard of shorter gun barrels for small vessels in the same shot weight. Rather the shot weight determined the length with some manufacturing variation. Smaller vessels naturally had smaller weight canons and larger vessels would have multiple canon sizes with larger on the lower decks Rich ty.
  3. barkeater
    First planking is done up to the deck which I marked with a black dyed plank for visual reference when I do the second planking. Next job is to frame out the gun ports and windows before I finish up planking to the top of the gunwales. Rich
  4. barkeater
    ok, my two cents. I use wood glue (pva) when joining wood or wood products (paper). If I need to glue wood to metal or plastic, I use cyanoacrylate (ca). My planking I do with pva. I heat bend my planks before gluing and even if I have to clamp with my fingers, a slow count to 100 usually gives enough time to set the glue. Ca is messy and if you get it on a surface it will stain. Even if you paint you can see the stain as it is plastic and fills in the wood grain. You also can't easily sand it out either. Yes, you can remove with acetone but with excess pva I just wipe with a wet paper towel. It also sands nice with no staining. My main use for ca is pinning deck furniture where I place a pin internally and glue it to a hole drilled in the deck.
  5. barkeater
    Beautiful work. Rich
  6. barkeater
    You're ok, just taper the remaining planks. The first planking in a double planking is really just a base to apply the second planking to. I would get rid of the nails as has previously been noted. You can't sand them. Use some wood filler and sand nice and smooth to receive the second planking. Have fun. Rich
  7. barkeater
    Here's a tip I don't think anybody has mentioned. The tapered surface of the plank should always go against an already installed plank. The planks free edge is therefore straight and any gap that needs to be corrected is against an installed plank and readily apparent before glueing. Also, if you use steam bending, let the finished plank sit overnight in place before gluing. Wet wood swells. Degree is minimal but you want to get the tightest fit you can. Rich here's a tip I don't
  8. barkeater
    I've been working on the first planking. I thought I ordered natural strips but I either hit the wrong button or they sent me the wrong color. Doesn't matter as this will all be covered up. It does look though like it would glow in the dark at this point, however. Not quite sure yet how the planking is going to wind up at the stern. I may be able to continue or put in an additional piece. oh well, that's part of the fun figuring it out. Rich
  9. barkeater
    Welcome aboard. Have fun. Rich
  10. barkeater
    The bulkheads have been installed as well as the sub decks for both the main deck and quarterdecks. There is a foredeck, but this is open to the main deck along its aft portion. I will not do a subdeck but rather a single plank on beams. I found two slightly different sets of plans from the NMR. One has two masts while the other has three and the quarterdecks are different lengths. I went with the 3 masts as this is how she is depicted by John Cleverly the Younger on her Nordic expedition with the Racehorse. Next job is fairing.
  11. barkeater
    Ronald, Think of the hull as one big batten instead of dividing it up into multiple smaller battens. I plank from the keel up. Now, I know at the top planking at the bulwarks, if I've cut out my bulkheads correctly, I will have a true or correct run of the planks. The needed taper of planks in between the keel and the top plank can therefore be calculated. Using the entire hull gives me the advantage that I can correct any tapers that need to be made gradually rather than having to make larger or greater corrections in a briefer run. This is especially useful along the stern where you can have an area where you need to increase your widths and have another area where you need to taper. I don't mean to disparage other methods, but this method works best for me. Rich
  12. barkeater
    I measure the run of each bulkhead once the first planking is done and pencil them in on the hull at their appropriate bulkhead. I then do a run of 10 planks and remeasure allowing me to adjust plank widths ahead of time repeating every 10 planks. This prevents me from running into trouble and having to use a drop a plank or stealer. I do trenails and plank lengths in scale. To help facilitate this I may add false bulkheads where needed to allow me to stay below 20 feet to a plank in scale. Rich
  13. barkeater
    Mark, As Jim said, you can purchase milled lumber which is actually easier than milling your own for the planking or deck. The exception would be if you want to include exotic woods such as yellow heart or ebony where milled pieces can't be obtained. The one machine I would find tough to replace by other means is a scroll saw for cutting odd shapes. I have a table saw and a thickness planner. I find the thickness planner very useful for making sure the stock I personally milled is uniform. I also have a mini lathe. I don't have a drill press. Welcome to scratch building. It's a lot of fun and it opens up a lot more opportunities as to what you can build. Rich
  14. barkeater
    What scale? I've used the liquid glass product before, and it works well as long as your openings are not too big. I work in 1/48 scale. If your window is divided into multiple panes, it makes it easier. I've used thread to make panes in the frame. Also, the liquid glass is semi opaque. Lastly, I have bought mica chips which I'm going to try on my current build but have no experience with yet. Rich
  15. barkeater
    Rabbet line is done, and bulkheads have been cut out. I will trim them to fit the keel assembly as I go. Also next up framing out the stern assembly. Rich
  16. barkeater
    If you are talking about furniture (steering wheel, ships bell, catheads etc.), I pin these with one of the brass-colored nails they include in kits. For glue I use cyanoacrylate on the nail shank and a small bit of wood glue on the wood parts where applicable (areas free of varnish). Rich
  17. barkeater
    I use room temperature water, but I would think 20 minutes should do it for 2mm. Mahogany tends to be a bit brittle. Don't overly force it. With a tight bend you may need to partially bend it and repeat your water bath before bending more. Rich
  18. barkeater
    The Carcass bomb vessel saw action in the Seven Years War as well as the American Revolution. Horatio Nelson served on her as a midshipman during the arctic exploration of 1773. The build will be double plank on bulkhead. Plans are from the National Maritime Museum. It will be as originally commissioned with mortars which were removed for the arctic exploration. Rich
  19. barkeater
    Congratulation. I redid part of a barn two years ago for my workshop and love it. Rich
  20. barkeater
    Gregg, I noticed in your drawing that there isn't a yard arm cleat. I don't know where you are on your build, but these help your lines from slipping when under tension. They are a lot easier to do before the yard is hung. They are easy to fabricate, I first drill the cleat for the trenail. Then I glue it in place and drill into the yard itself then insert a glue coated trenail. They varied over time and country of origin. The ones I did would be from 1660 to 1815 according to James Lees "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War Rich
  21. barkeater
    Easier would be to do each block on their own line going round the yard twice then lashing the afferent and efferent portions tight to grip the yard. If you do the two-block idea one line with the third used to tie it all together it becomes more complicated. Especially tying in that third line while keeping the other two tight to the yard. For looks you want all blocks to have the same length, and this is a lot easier to do doing one at a time. Added to this, you want your port to match your starboard. Easier to get it exact if you match up port and starboard blocks one at a time. If you really want to put 2 on 1 use a clove hitch and do the third separate. Rich
  22. barkeater
    Well, not a lot of Petersson fans out there. In 1/64th scale you are not going to be able to copy exactly how the rigging was done. Be aware that some of the knots at that scale cannot be seen or identified with the naked eye. Rich
  23. barkeater
    Try, Lennarth Petersson "Rigging period ship models" Rich
  24. barkeater
    I install all sections of the masts and platforms prior to adding the shrouds. Even if you tied in the shroud just distally, you still have to have the platforms in place as your lines need to go outside of the crosstrees and bolsters. Plus, you attach the shrouds in a specific order. The order could get messed up if hanging free for any length of time. You have to leave enough room to fit in the heel of the topmast or topgallant and this is tight. Easier to fit the lines one at a time rather than all at once and still keeping them looking neat and in correct order. Also, the topmast and topgallant have to a fit tightly together and adjustment with shrouds in place may make it more difficult. You want to get your masts all aligned midline and with the correct angle. I feel for me this is easier to set this up all at once and glue it rather than doing it in stages. Rich
  25. barkeater
    You could try fly tying thread. It comes in many colors and thicknesses. Rich

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