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barkeater
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Everything posted by barkeater
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Gluing on planks
barkeater replied to rudybob's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Are you heat bending your planks. If not then that might be your solution. I don't use cyanoacrylate just white (carpenters glue). CA I'd bet is causing your quick drying time. Richard -
I'm sorry but I have no experience with plastic ship modeling. Hopefully someone can answer your questions. I would think you would install the deck before priming and paint your cleats and other items before attaching but these are only guesses. Richard
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Which vessel/ kit? You'll get better answers if we know exactly what kit you're asking about. Richard
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Shaving down planks
barkeater replied to rudybob's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
If you are talking about tapering a hull plank, then yes. Also put the tapered edge against the already done course of planks and leave the unshaved plank free. Doing it this way lets you know if your taper is clean of bumps or dips rather than find out that you need to redo or touch up the shaved edge after you've glued it in place. Richard -
The trick for me is holding (mashing) it down with a probe angled across the coil while I make the next coil with another probe or tweezer. You have to keep pressure on all the time then hit with a drop of the pva and put a weight on top until it dries. Also there was a thread awhile back on making a jig out of wood which you should be able to find. Richard
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Grant, I agree with Henry on the use of fly-tying thread for your seizing's if that is what you are asking. It comes in many colors so matching your line should be no problem. Size 6/0 should work in most cases. I work in 1/48 scale. What scale are you in? I seize by making a loop of my seizing thread, passing the thread through the loop 3 times and snugging it down. Then I do a double loop and snug it down and finally an additional double loop and snug it down. These have all been laid touching one another but not overlapping. Then I hit them with a 50% pva to water solution, let it dry and snip my loose end. The results look good simulating the 7-9 turns Henry noted, and you do not add any significant bulk to ruin the outline. Richard
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New member, long time ship modeler
barkeater replied to Old Navy's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome aboard. Richard -
Thanks for posting the pictures. I'm a little further from Portsmouth. 😁 Richard
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I'll second the scroll saw recommendation. What you can use are wood sheets. They come in about 20-24 inches in length and say 4 to6 inches in width with various thickness options (1/8, 1/4, 1/2 inches). There are many varieties of wood that you can get depending on your needs. I have used Modelers Sawmill which is one of our sponsors and was very pleased with the pear wood I got. I have also used Rockler and they are good. I have also bought wood elsewhere which was not planned evenly causing me a big headache. Strips for planking can be purchased from multiple sources. A thickness sander is great as is having a mini table saw to rip planks but if you are just starting scratch building then a scroll saw should be your first purchase. As for having somebody cut out the keel and frames, I would think that if you even found someone to do it, the cost would be prohibitive. Richard
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Good evening from New Jersey USA!
barkeater replied to Funkingonuts's topic in New member Introductions
Welcome Michael from another Jersey guy. Richard -
"I'd only add that if your plank is properly shaped before it is offered up to the framing, use of an electric plank bender or the equivalent to apply heat to the plank at the point of attachment will speed the evaporation of the PVA's water-base and hasten the PVA's taking hold. Care must be taken not to scorch the plank face, of course" One point here. You do not want to glue a soaked or wet plank as it can shrink as it dries depending on how long you soaked it. To get the best result steam bend then let the entire plank dry before gluing. I usually glue the course I did the day before and the I'll bend the next batch once my glue is dry enough which is not long. I also trenail the batch I glued the day before so there is plenty to do and drying is not holding me up.
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I do not use nails in my planking as they split wood and have to be removed leaving holes. I glue either clamping or applying pressure with my fingers and then I drill and use trenails which look authentic to the period I am doing. Having said that, a #72 drill bit fits most nails fairly securely and I use them for pinning furniture and where a bolt would have been used. Also, concerning trenails, the #72 bit fits the 28 or 26 size on Byrne Machines draw knife for reference. Richard.
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Getting back to Lavery's Arming and Fitting. Very good purchase. I use it as a reference all the time. Richard
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I'm originally from the Mohawk valley/ Adirondack region and still have family there. It always drives me crazy to hear people talking about "upstate" when they are talking about a town 20 miles north of NYC.
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Try using a needle threader which are easy to find at brick-and-mortar stores such as hobby shops, fabric stores or online. They are sold in packs. They are cheap which is good as I break them frequently. Richard
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I use thinned wood (white) glue on all of my knots. It is invisible at least to my eye when it dries. As has been said, experiment to see what looks best and works best for your situation. Richard
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Welcome from a fellow New Jerseyan. Rich
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looking good.
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Swivel guns
barkeater replied to tlevine's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
My Badger 1777 under finished scratch build shows how I installed them. The pictures might be helpful. They were made out of toothpicks and brass. Richard -
As a follow-up, I simulated iron gratings. Richard
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I also would recommend Monfelds as your first book purchase. I have a dozen or so books and more often than not I find what I'm looking for in his book. Richard
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If I'm understanding this correctly, you need to put a curve in a 2x4 mm piece of plywood. You could just cut a piece of wood and steam bend in this case. Since it is originally plywood, I assume the finished piece will be hidden or painted. In that case you could use whatever wood you want. You may be able to find a 2x4mm and a 2x5mm piece in the lengths you need already cut from walnut or bass in one of the many online stores. The thicker the wood, the harder to steam bend but 2 mm is readily doable. I'm assuming you have an electric steam bender. If not and you don't want to get one you could soak and make a jig to let it dry in the proper curve, but a steam bender is a cheap and worthwhile tool to have and pretty much a necessity for ship building. Richard
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I don't know if this would help since I'm not fully clear on what you need to do and what tools you have but thin plywood sheets are readable available in different thicknesses. I've bought them on Amazon. I believe they were birch and have used them for bulkheads as well as an undercoat for deck planking. Richard
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I do mine out of wood. Pear wood would be your best bet and has already been suggested. I use ebony which is hard to work with but has the right color as I like the look of natural wood. Richard
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I would also guess that they would be iron as iron gratings replaced wood ones in the next century. I would like to verify if anyone knows. Thanks. Richard
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