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barkeater
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Everything posted by barkeater
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I'd go with sanding. 1/32 is not much wood to sand. As you lay planks down you may get slight offset to the surface of the planks secondary to the changing contour or torque to the long axis of the plank secondary to bending the plank. You are going to sand even if you don't get any irregularities to the surface. If you feel your rabbet is deep enough and you are happy with it I would leave it. I would not sand planks before setting the because of the factors above. You can always sand a little more wood off but you can't replace it.
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Aaron, By the way, when Chuck talks about drilling and pegging, you can use a pin vise which is a relatively cheap tool ($10) instead of a drill press. Pin vises are an invaluable gadget to have around. Rich
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What Vaddoc said. Once you varnish, oil or paint it is tough to glue pieces together and you can use pins inserted so that they do not show into the pieces to help join them. When I do this I use CA but do it carefully and sparingly as it will penetrate the wood and leave a stain on exposed surfaces. I hope this is clear.
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I don't paint or stain my wood. I would however venture to mention that if you are going to varnish or use a hard finish that this will cause some difficulty with gluing. In such a case predrill a hole in the object and the place where it will be attached then insert and glue a pin into both to join them. You may want to do this with painted items as well.
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Newbie Questions - Glue and Pins
barkeater replied to Popeye67's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I don't use push pins. Short answer to CA vs white glue is CA penetrates the wood leaving a stain which you can't sand off easily while white glue (pva) does not penetrate like CA and doesn't stain and can easily be sanded from the surface. There is an article in this months NRG Journal that notes that CA will disappear with a clear coat but why take the chance. I do know lacquer doesn't cover it in my experience. My advise, use white glue for all wood and use CA where you want to glue metal or plastic to wood. Paper to wood use white glue. -
I ran across this site https://www.minicannontech.com/ which I thought was pretty interesting. They offer functioning mini-cannons including both naval and field cannons. Kind of cool to think you could build a cross section or battle station and have the cannon actually be able to fire.
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I use white glue to seize lines as well as stiffen coils. I just put some white glue in a paper cup, add water and mix with a tooth pick. I really don't measure but it would be something on the order of 4/1 to 5/1 water to glue. You want it thin enough so that it soaks in and does not leave a visible residue on the surface. You really don't need a thick mixture to stiffen the line.
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From Lavery " The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815" " The eighteenth century 3-pounder was between 4ft 6in and 6ft long". Using 5ft my math indicates between 32 and 33 mm so 30mm should be fine.
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Newbie with a few tool questions....
barkeater replied to CPDDET's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Here's my bare bones tool collection: Mitre box and saw, flexible ruler with metric, scalpel, clamps (you will collect various), micro files (flat, triangular, round and square), and for me 5x glasses (about $10 on line). I forgot to include sand paper. You can build an entire kit with just these tools except for the rigging. I'm not a big Dremel user but occasionally find it useful but not required. I do use an electric plank bender but with a single plank model you should be able to soak and clamp your planks and omit this initial expense. The Bluenose is painted however if you were going to add treenails say for the deck add Model Machines draw knife as well as a pin vise and small drill bits. That is all you need to build a kit. One word of advice. It is easier to remove more wood than it is to replace it. Good luck.
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As I read the links, both of these seem to be a single plank builds. Please ignore this if I am wrong. You might be better off with a double plank kit where your first planking is just to get the shape and will be covered with the second planking. This allows you to get the technique down and you can make mistakes (gaps) which you can fill in. I have never done a solid hull but sooner or later you are going to do planking anyway and I would not be put off by it. It is also , to me, part of the challenge and fun of a project to figure out how to shape and bend the planking.
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There is a good discussion on the Wood Database concerning exotic woods and their losing color. It seems that all but a few woods will lose or change color with aging. Yellowheart which was mentioned in this discussion only darkens slightly and I'm using it for the yellow ochre stripe along the gun ports of Unite. I'm also using Chatke to simulate the red paint on the gun deck. This however may be a bad choice as this wood turns brown with age. I decided not to go with dyed wood even though the color was very similar to Chatke because it was dyed. I will seal it very well hopefully with shellac and dulcote varnish but in a few years my red may turn brown. What I'm getting at is that this is a personal choice and there is a good discussion on the database on this. Is it more important to have the colors of you project last or can you accept that the vibrant color that looked so nice may not be permanent. Another coat of shellac for me but to each his own.
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It looks really yellow in your picture. If this is true my guess would be yellow heart or dyed bass wood which I have seen (Modelers Central). The "Wood Database" site may be of help. https:/www.wood-database.com/wood-finder/?fwp_paged=24
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Cutting Planks
barkeater replied to sfotinos's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
I essentially do what Downer said at the top of this thread. I also work wearing 5x glasses. I wonder whether or not those having problems are using magnification as they allow me to see when I'm getting off course on a butt end much easier and prevent me from getting to far afield before making a correction. Just a thought. -
Another trick you can use is double sided tape. Stick one side to your work surface and the coil your lines using the sticky tape to keep in place. You can the use watered down white glue to fix the coils. Let it dry and remove from tape. I used this method to get the coils next to the canons in this picture.
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I apologize if my comment was taken as a criticism to Kieth's post. I thought it was a good answer and I did see he was referring to styrene. I just wanted to make sure that somebody who just bought their first wood kit did not miss that the discussion was about plastic models.
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A note to the beginner, the choice of glues would depend on what medium you are working in. In this instance, the model is plastic.
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Ship stand
barkeater replied to Snow's topic in Discussion for a Ship's Deck Furniture, Guns, boats and other Fittings
I used a piece of driftwood for a stand on Badger 1777.
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I'm by Freehold, but I come up to the Long Valley area a lot as I fly fish the South Branch and the Musconetcong. Beautiful area.
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Greetings back from NJ
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The Construction and Fitting of the Sailing Man of War 1650-1850 by Peter Goodwin The Arming and Fitting of English Ships of War 1600-1815 by Brian Lavery Rigging Period Ship Models by Lennarth Petersson
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I use a Byrnes draw plate. I work in 1/48 scale and go down to a 28 or 26 on the plate which I like the look of. I use a #72 drill bit and this is about .4mm. I don't think a Dremel would work for me at this scale since getting them uniform without breaking would be tough. I like wood tree-nails over the alternatives some of which I've tried. My comment was written with humor in mind. I've done thousands of tree-nails and knocked out a bunch today. It's just that when you are on your 10th or 11th piece, you have to be saying to yourself, "I hate tree-nails".
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I hate making tree-nails. To me it is the most tedious job there is, but they look so good that I tree-nail everything. I tried using thorns from a locust tree but I did not think they looked as good. So I will sit today watching sports and pulling little pieces of bamboo through my draw plate. Making blocks or pieces for gun carriages can be repetitive, but in the end you get something to look at other than a thin piece of wood that is just skinnier than when you started. Oh well, the game is coming on so it is back to my draw plate. Thanks for listening. What do you hate?
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Shean, Welcome to the site. I grew up in Gloversville NY. Your first build is always a little daunting. I remember looking at the instructions for my first build and wondering, "Is this all the instructions I get?". There are plenty of modelers here to ask for advice. Have fun. Rich
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Thank you for the kind words. I put pictures of the Badger in the completed scratch build section if you want to see more.
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Hello, I joined a while back but haven't posted. I am a scratch builder having completed Badger 1777 Nelson's first command and am currently working on L'Unite 1796 which served as his flag ship on his way to take command of the Mediterranean fleet. Both are 1/48 scale. I do plank on bulkhead and am rather slow. Currently I'm 2 1/2 years into the L'Unite and am working on the main wale which I'm doing in ebony. I like to keep everything in natural wood. I like to tree-nail everything and I try not to use anything prefabricated. Well, that's my story.
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