barkeater

I do everything but cordage, chains and canons. I have molded canons in the past but what I can buy looks better and they are metal. Chains are just to small in 1/48 and I'd rather buy my cordage than spend the time making my own.

A goniometer would also be helpful. A cheap plastic bendable one would be all you need.

Glenn, loved the architectural drawings you had framed. I'm looking forward to doing the same with my current build but am still using it for measurements. Rich

I agree with DR PR on single planked models but if you are doing a double planked model the extra spacing between bulkheads is not a problem. For newbies I would recommend a double planked model. The first planking will allow you to learn before you put on the second planking. For the first planking use longer strips as it will go faster and it won't be visible on the finished model. You can add a false bulkhead say half way between the original bulkheads. Just mark where your bulkheads are by drawing a line over your first planking as you go along. (In fairing or shaping of bulkheads it is imperative that you do a good job in making sure that the planks are in contact across the full breadth of the bulkhead and that there is a smooth fit along multiple adjacent bulkheads. It will save you a lot of grief later and help prevent kinks and uneven spots.) Once you have the first planking done your model should have multiple straight lines going perpendicular to for and aft. Now just take a ruler and measure out in this example 1/2 half distance between bulkheads and pencil in a false bulkhead between the lines you have already drawn on your model. You have doubled the number of bulkheads and since you are attaching plank over plank you have a solid base which will allow you to plank the finished model in scale if you so desire. There are lots of different ways that work in building these models and you just have to find what works for you. Good luck. Richard

I think you mean planking to scale. If you are building a model and want to be as exact as possible your planks should be of similar length as would have been used on the actual ship build. I do 1/48 scale. The maximum length that would have been available for general use in the time period I'm interested in would have been 20 feet. Converting this to 1/48 scale (20 times 12 divided by 48) yields a length of 5 inches in my scale. I therefore limit my maximal plank lengths to 5 inches to reflect the scale. Concerning planking in longer vs. shorter lengths. It can be harder to get good edge approximation especially along curves with a longer length plank extending from stem to stern than with shorter lengths. With a tough curve you really have to work the wood which is easier if you are dealing with a shorter length to match up. Rabbet video I can't help you with but you can either make a template from a copy of your plans and glue this to the keel with watered down pva or measure it out on the keel carefully. I use the former. Take a scalpel then and carefully and slowly cut into the keel along your line at 90 degrees and then slowly create your groove on the inside of your first cut. It actually is easier than it looks. Just go slow. Some people use files or chisels for this but I personally prefer a sharp scalpel. Richard

Your carriage came out nice.

Check out under the Modeling Tools and Equipment area of the forum "Newbie with a few Tool Questions" for discussion of what basic tools you need for a kit build. Oh, and welcome to the forum. Richard

I have blackened after gluing and there was loosening. I wont do it again. Rich

Model Expo and Historic Ships both carry eyebolts. I'm sure just about any hobby outlet catering to model boat builders would carry them. They are pretty easy to make. Use silver wire (26 guage should work in your scale) for metal fabrication (eyebolts, ring bolts, hooks, etc.) as it is stronger and holds a shape better than craft wire which bends to easy. I silver solder my metal work but for eye bolts you probably don't have to unless you are going to have them under a lot of tension. I just use two needle nose pliers without a form such as the drill bit mentioned above but doing them on a form would give you more consistency.

Welcome and do let us know what you are interested in.

The battle of Valcour Island was pivotal in the success of the American Revolutionary War stopping the British forces from coming down lake Champlain in 1776. This stopped the invasion that year which allowed the colonials another year to organize and when the British strike came next year they were defeated at Saratoga. Although Benedict Arnold and his hastily built fleet were defeated they quite possibly saved the American Revolution. While the Philadelphia may have had a short life and unfortunately was sunk she is a truly historic vessel. Good luck on her build.

I use an electric plank bender and they work fine. I do not hold them in place however while they dry. I'm talking about the second planking on a double planked ship. I bend them to the curve I want testing by putting them in place. When I'm satisfied I just let them dry on my bench and then next day glue then treenail. I use pva and hold in place with fingers for a count of 100 and this usually works. Really tough bends may require holding to a count of 300 but they do stick.

Congratulations. Nice vessel,

Welcome aboard.

I would also recommend semi soft silver wire which can be purchased online in multiple gauges. I find it stronger than a lot of craft wire. You have to silver solder it instead of soft solder but you get a stronger end product. It blackens nicely and can be flattened or shaped to make parts such as latches and hinges.

Yippee! I added the website to my favorites list.

It is difficult to work with, requiring a lot of work to bend it, and it is toxic but it looks soooo good. I use it for wales. It also is good anchors, stoves and accent pieces such as window frames. If you need to bend it, work in stages, soaking, heat bending then soaking and heating again until you get the curve you need. I leave all wood natural color without painting so I am always looking to add in different types and colors of wood to give contrast.

Do all your lines to a particular mast or yard. Wrap them around their appropriate belaying pins leaving a small tail in case you have to adjust. When all lines have been placed with good tension glue using pva to the pins. Add your rope coils and your done.

I'm a lazy susan type of guy.

Congratulations. Awesome!

Excellent and fascinating work all along in your restoration. Thanks for sharing.

Tough to say without seeing it but I would consider a small amount of cyanoacrylate. It will be visible so only a tiny bit.

Nicely done.

Back to the original question. If you follow the rigging as shown in Lee's book or others you should not need to use a brass rod. I would recommend Petersson's "Rigging Period Ship Models" as the book is all simplified illustrations of different lines including lifts, truss pendants, jeers, slings and pendants along with braces. There is very little if any text and no discussion of different changes over time like Lee's book but the drawings are clear and simple. Rich

Dremel?!!!! You are a brave man. Glad it worked out. Looks great.