KevinR

Perhaps these images could help:
 

 
 
 

 
S.os

Name the Ship:
 

 
Sorry, this is the best image I could find of this ship, a sail plan, but sufficiently detailed to identify it.
Retouched to remove "give-away" details (like the name of the ship).

DFellingham, you are correct. The USS Hayler (DD-997) was suppose to be a class of it's own, DDH-997 (helicopter destroyer). But the Navy could not get enough funding to build it as such so completed it as a Spruance class destroyer. By the time it was built they were out of parts so had to find them where they could. All of the spruance class destroyers had the SPS-40 Air Search Radar except for the Hayler, it had the SPS-49. It made it easy to find at the piers, when there could be several Spruance classes nested together. As far as that armored door, I remember having to do maintenance on it. We had to bring in riggers just to change the hinge pins. During heavy seas the door would be secured because it could crush someone if it closed unexpectedly. All of the other Spruances and Ticonderogas had a large aluminum door in that location.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Hayler_%28DD-997%29
 
DFellingham, you win. So what have you got?

Thanks, Kevin. Two days ago I would not have been able to distinguish a Spruance from an Arleigh Burke. That's why I enjoy this game, it forces me to learn about ships outside of my primary interest in "wooden ships and iron men."
 
I'll be back in a short while with something made of wood. 
 
Dave

DFellingham, it is not the Oldendorf (DD-972). Titanic it was not the Kidd, the Kidd was the lead in it's on class.
Here is the hint. When they were building this ship they ran out of Spruance Class parts, so they used parts from the Ticonderoga class and what could be salvaged to finish it. This included the Fresh water evaporators (Ticonderoga class - never had water hours in 5 years), HF Communications suit (from a decommissioned ship), Air Search Radar (Ticonderoga Class) and the huge Steel Armored door on the starboard side just aft of the break (Virginia Class Cruiser I believe). I never understood why put a steel armored door on an aluminum superstructure.

While I don't know what the rules are for serving, I can recommend a few books that might be helpful.
 
The first two works I would suggest are The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860, by James Lees and David Steel's Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking and Rigging (also published as The Elements and Practice of Rigging and Seamanship). 
 
Steel's work was originally written around 1794, and describes the British practices of the time.  His book is freely available online here: http://hnsa.org/doc/steel/index.htm.  Admittedly, much of his language can be difficult to comprehend, but I would say it is one of the most useful.  Notably, he lists the size and length of every spar, rope and line for all ships, from a cutter to a first-rate
 
Lees's work is not freely available, but was written with the modeller, not the shipwright, in mind, and provides a comparative description of rigging at different times.  His work is well illustrated, and provides some information as to the correct sizes of parts, but not as detailed as Steel's.
 
After these works, Lennarth Petersson's Rigging Period Ship Models is helpful, as it shows where every rope is supposed to go, and can be a quick way to identify the components described in more detail by the first two works.  However, he does not include any written description, and this work only describes a frigate of around 1800 (but could be applied, with caution and referring to the previous two works, to other ships of a similar timeframe).
 
Hopefully this at least gives you some suggestions for where to start looking, and I'm sure someone else will come along and provide an answer.

Hi All
 
just uploaded a gallery of photos of the Batavia original timbers that are on display in the Shipwreck museum in Fremantle.  I took these about 18mo ago while out there, and figured they would be a useful resource for anyone interested in VOC ships.  Batavia dates from 1628.
 
There are some interesting features and a couple of the cannon she was carrying as well.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/gallery/album/648-batavia-shipwreck-wa-museum-shipwreck-galleries-fremantle/
 
Imgages are HD size - which kept them well inside the upload size limit.  If anyone wants full size (18M pixel) of any pic PM and I'll forward it to you.
 
Colin

Yes, I agree...very expensive.  I'll also say that unless you just really want a book to look through, all the content that is contained in the book is covered at some point on this site and is in greater detail than the book.  Plus there are quite a few build logs on the Constitution in plastic that are very active at this point that also cover the same material as in the book.  But with that said, there is still nothing like holding a real paper book...  

Well there is only about 30 odd of them  Lets start with the 'A's'.. just kiddin, was trying to find particularly distinguishing features compared to the 'norm (and using your 3 photos) and I keep coming back to that Radar antenna
 
Eamonn
 
I'll have to let somebody else follow up as it's bed time over here (just past 2 in the morning) so good night Kevin, and have a great rest of the day. If it is still there in the morning (or thereabouts) I'll have a dig around again.
 
All the best from sleepy Ireland.
 
 
Eamonn

that is a good question Eamonn.

I had some free time today due to the weather so I planked the transom. I am now back to where I was when the stern post broke on the original.

I have the keel glued to the frames now.

 
I dry fitted the shear lines and see that the bow is going to need additional work to get a proper fit.

Personally, I find you cannot go past the sawdust from the very planks you wish to fill.
Save it.
Use the remains from the first, ROUGH sanding.
 
When you are ready to fill, mix the smallest amount of diluted PVA (70/30 works for me) and stir to a stiff-ish, gluey paste.
Spread into the cracks.
Even "coat" your Boat in various areas.
This can help "hide your sins" in case your original frame-work turned out to have "issues".
NOT sayin' yours does - just suggesting that, perhaps, one of my earlier builds, may have .... possibly ... once ....
(Thank the heavens for Double-Planked kits !!!)
 
Anyway, allow glue to dry properly.
Then wait another 48 hours ...
 
Once COMPLETELY dry, sand down to your original planking.
Finish with final sandings, using finer grit.

I had some free time today due to the weather so I planked the transom. I am now back to where I was when the stern post broke on the original.

I have the keel glued to the frames now.

 
I dry fitted the shear lines and see that the bow is going to need additional work to get a proper fit.

Part 2 - Lining the Hull
 
Bulkhead Adjustment

After letting the boat dry over night I started looking at the boat and noticed that several of the bulkheads did not match up with the deck.
 
Adding some Wood to the Bulkheads

A strip of wood has been cut and glued to the offending bulkhead.
 
Bulkheads faired to Deck

After the glue dried some light sanding to the wood strip to match the profile of the deck.
 
Soaking the Hull Planks

Soaking the planks used for the first layer of hull planking in hot water.
 
First Hull Plank Applied

The first plank has been glued and nailed to the bulkheads 5mm below the deck surface as indicated in the directions. I am using white carpenter's glue as directed in the instructions and the nails/brads supplied with the kit. The directions say that I should not drive the nails all the way in but instead leave about 3mm exposed to be snipped off later. I feel that this is going to be a pain.
 
Matching Plank

The matching plank on the opposite side of the ship has been glued/nailed on 5mm below the deck surface. Performing a visual inspection to make sure the planks look even.
 
Checking the Profile

Viewing the hull profile from below.
 
More Planking

I applied planks one at a time, alternating sides as I went. It was not always easy to match up the opposing planks.
 
Gap below first Plank

I think this gap below the first plank on this side is what caused some of the discrepancies.
 
Questionable Technique

I can't help but feel that the first couple of planks should have run the whole length of the hull rather than being cut.
 
Admiring the Profile

Even with the difficulties I was having admiring the profile was still something to be enjoyed.
 
Admiring the Opposite Side

Just making sure both sides look good.
 
Applying Planks along the False Keel

The directions were kind of sparse for this step but the pictures indicate that some planking should be applied along the false keel prior to filling in the section between the deck and keel
 
Bending Planks

Make sure the wood is soaked really well. When all is said and done a couple of planks are bent almost 90 degrees in places. I was lucky enough not to have any breaks but I did have to be very deliberate and careful so as not to over-bend these pieces along the false keel.
 
Filling In - View from the Nose

This was the better side.
 
Filling In - View from the Bloody Nose

Some of the cuts on this side were pretty rough. Still getting the hang of cutting wet wood properly. Ended up having to use some CA glue to get certain planks ends to stay in place.
 
Filling In - View from the Back

Cutting some of these pieces proved to be more delicate work than expected (as seen from the split ends and scratches in the wood). The profile is looking nice though.
 
Getting to the Hard Part

I am now at a spot where every piece requires cutting in order to fit properly on the hull.
 
First Side Complete

First side has been finished. Only a couple of pieces were really delicate.
 
First Completed Side - Profile from the Rear

Finished profile is not too shabby!
 
Done!

Last piece has been glued in place. Now to let the glue dry over-night before moving on to clean-up and sanding.
 
Finished Profile




 
Overall I am pretty happy with how it is turning out so far.
 
Andrew
 

You are correct. This is not my first build but it is my first plank on frame bulkhead model. I tried my hand at a couple super easy boats first: Midwest Products Cheasapeake Bay Flattie and the Muscongous Bay Lobster Smack. I have also been watching plenty of videos, reading some good books, and surfing forums for advice and technique.
 
To be honest, planking the hull is kind of intimidating but everything can be the first time. Just need to take the plung I guess!
 
Andrew

I have the keel glued to the frames now.

 
I dry fitted the shear lines and see that the bow is going to need additional work to get a proper fit.

I'm working on my first POF and have found that the best help is patience and a lot of coffee.  Good luck

Just a very brief tangent from the thread, this is the veiw out the back of my house at the moment. That's bushfire smoke.
 
I have no idea how far away they are but there are a bunch of men and women out there doing it pretty flamin tough at the moment trying to get it under control.
 

 

 

 
 

Depending on how subtle you want to be, you can also take a hypodermic needle of appropriate gauge, grind the angle off it, and "stamp" a circle on the end of the planks.  The indent on the wood will be visible, but the effect is a lot more subtle than the drill and fill method.
 
Colin

Kind of like this, Duff?
But be sure to use some strong glue, like epoxy, because the peel (or cleavage) strength here is important.
(I am not saying epoxy is all that great for peel strength, but it is better than white glue).

 
BTW  that is one of my CA glue containers from Micheals'.

OK, one more and then it is your turn.
 
I use a lot of round toothpicks to apply adhesive. For hard to reach places I have used a clothes pin to hold the toothpick. However, sometimes it has a tendency to slip sideways between the jaws.
So, I drilled a small hole in the end of the jaws and now the disposable toothpicks are more steady than my shaking hand.

This is nothing new, but worth repeating.
 
If you have clothes pins (the admiral may direct you to her supply), modify them to suite your needs.
You can sand the ends to taper or make them so you can grab small pieces. Both plastic and wood work well, but I prefer the old fashioned wooden type.

 
Then you can take them apart and reverse the spring to have a different type. You can then refine that by tapering the long faces so they can help with flat surfaces. In this case I also filed the indentation (where the spring fits) a bit deeper and sanded the clamping faces so they would meet.
 

 
Any other ideas about using these old, but handy gizmoes?

Here is another way to use clothes pins.
Drill a couple holes in the side, insert a round toothpick and, voila, a clamp for holding planks against the bulkhead.

 
To give the jaws a bit more bite, glue a couple pieces of sandpaper to the jaw faces.