JerryTodd

@druxey
@albert
Many thanks for your interest and encouragement, and thanks to everyone for the many LIKES.
 
In the meantime, the constant rain here in Bavaria is getting on my nerves.
On the other hand, I can spend more time building models again, so I can show you the latest results:
 
Equipping the fore royal yard - Vergue de petit cacatois
I continued with the equipment of the fore royal yard, analogous to the main royal yard. The fore royal yard still has a thickness of around 2.2 mm in the middle.
The first picture shows the attached tye and parral.

The clew line blocks that had already been produced were then fitted with served block strops and attached to the yard.

This was followed by the final fitting of the yard with the lifts, braces and clew lines. As already mentioned, I will not be attaching any sails to this model. Accordingly, I will later connect the clew lines of the royals to the sheets without the corners of the clews using the toggles.


Last but not least, a picture with the center section of the main yard for size comparison.

To be continued ...
 

Waited to respond until I had something to show. 
 
Sorry for trying to put years of operations and many courses and manuals in a single post... I guess that was a bit much. 
 
In any case, as mentioned before, the first liquid line was the hardest as I had to line it out, get a good length etc. Once this one was done (and for those paying attention, in the last picture it had already its end flanges and orange painted extremities in place), I could continue with the others. 
I was very reluctant to glue it in place, due to so many things that need to line up at one time, that I didn't glue it in place for a long time. Although I wanted to continue aft with the vapor line next to my finished liquid line, I decided not to do that. 
Although everything is far from perfect, I had a feeling that the longitudinal distance between the manifold flanges would be very important for the overall view of the model. I therefore went ahead with the aft liquid line. Once that was done, I could go towards the center and make sure those distances were at least symmetrical. 
Again everything was laying dry fitted for a very long time, until I was sure that I had at least the space to cram in the other lines. 
I then glued the two liquid (orange tipped) lines in place and continued inward with the vapor lines etc. 
 
Here you see how I lined up all manifold flanges to be at a straight line transversally. Because I had the two liquid lines fixed, I could use a straight piece of styrene touching the flanges. I then marked the edge of the "new" pipes and cut them off at that mark. 

 

 
Once I had the flanges on on one side, I then used that piece of styrene against all flanges (with the white pipes still dry fitted) and used the same trick to mark out the other side. Then I cut that side and glued the flange. Up till that moment I had the "flanges", small rings, that I needed for valves, loose on the pipes. Once the flanges were in place, I could measure and glue the first flange for the first valve and so on. 

 
And a bit of extra. As you can see on the liquid manifold ends, there are two valves. 1 is manual, with a wheel (inboard), the other is hydraulic (outboard), with a big actuator. The manual valve is called a double shut valve and is installed because a single valve can leak, chances of having two valves leaking at the same time are much smaller. Since the liquid lines can go quite high in pressure, this is a requirement for liquid lines only. On the vapour line you can see there is no more manual valve behind the hydraulic actuator. 
The high pressure line also has a double valve (more work for me again). 
 
I've been thinking of making the manifold flanges bolted, in a similar way as the strainer lids. But eventually I decided against it. It would probably be out of scale, take a long time to make and I had already used blank discs as end flanges on other parts of the vessel, so it would be out of the normal to have them with bolts here. 
 
And last but not least I tested with a paper template, the walkway that's supposed to come on top. To my greater surprise (I had to make some things slightly out of scale and expected the accumulated error to be quite large), it fitted quite well. 
I will make a cardboard adapted version of this catwalk before I make the final one in the same way as I made the driptray gratings. 

 
 

Hi
 
After several weeks of work the outer lining of the hull of the frigate is completed.
The starboard side is completely lined, and the port side releases the openings made in the structure to be able to show the interior
Some photos show the realization and, at the end, some details of the simplified nail of the boards .
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Adrián

Winter, as handling epoxy in an unheated garage matters, seemed to last almost till the end of April.

But finally the temperatures and my time have coincided enough that I may finally get this ostrich egg finished.

It seems the plastic egg deformed a little from the weight, so the two halves don't lay flat to each other. If I do this again, and for you folks thinking of using this method, I will put ribs inside the bulb to stiffen it, and fashion some sort of cradle to sit on that supports it so the bulb doesn't try to flatten out as the epoxy and lead set-up.

There were also pockets in the bulb that resin hadn't gotten to and I could hear the shot rattling around inside. If there's a next time, I'll place shot and pour resin in layers to ensure the resin gets everywhere it needs to be. What sounded like the biggest of these pockets was behind the flange? I modeled in for the plate to slide into. I opened the holes here to pour more resin in and hopefully fill this void.

I re-drilled to holes for the pin that will keep the bulb from sliding off the plate, and cut about a 3 inch length of 3/16" brass rod for the pin.
I mixed very fine sawdust from my band-saw with the epoxy to make a paste of it, and buttered both sides of the bulb, placed the pin, and plate, and put the other half on.

I used a sliver of wood as a wedge to hold the seam on top, where the plate enters, as close as I could, making something of a gap at the bottom. The epoxy butter filled this in fairly well, but the seam's open almost all the way around, which I'll fill with more epoxy butter.

The bulb also needs some clean-up from epoxy runs and cardboard that stuck to it; and I intend to wrap it in glass cloth as that'll be stronger than the resin alone if the boat should hit a rock or something.
 

Good to see you back at it Jerry. The bulb looks massive, I guess it is rather weighty?

Winter, as handling epoxy in an unheated garage matters, seemed to last almost till the end of April.

But finally the temperatures and my time have coincided enough that I may finally get this ostrich egg finished.

It seems the plastic egg deformed a little from the weight, so the two halves don't lay flat to each other. If I do this again, and for you folks thinking of using this method, I will put ribs inside the bulb to stiffen it, and fashion some sort of cradle to sit on that supports it so the bulb doesn't try to flatten out as the epoxy and lead set-up.

There were also pockets in the bulb that resin hadn't gotten to and I could hear the shot rattling around inside. If there's a next time, I'll place shot and pour resin in layers to ensure the resin gets everywhere it needs to be. What sounded like the biggest of these pockets was behind the flange? I modeled in for the plate to slide into. I opened the holes here to pour more resin in and hopefully fill this void.

I re-drilled to holes for the pin that will keep the bulb from sliding off the plate, and cut about a 3 inch length of 3/16" brass rod for the pin.
I mixed very fine sawdust from my band-saw with the epoxy to make a paste of it, and buttered both sides of the bulb, placed the pin, and plate, and put the other half on.

I used a sliver of wood as a wedge to hold the seam on top, where the plate enters, as close as I could, making something of a gap at the bottom. The epoxy butter filled this in fairly well, but the seam's open almost all the way around, which I'll fill with more epoxy butter.

The bulb also needs some clean-up from epoxy runs and cardboard that stuck to it; and I intend to wrap it in glass cloth as that'll be stronger than the resin alone if the boat should hit a rock or something.
 

Winter, as handling epoxy in an unheated garage matters, seemed to last almost till the end of April.

But finally the temperatures and my time have coincided enough that I may finally get this ostrich egg finished.

It seems the plastic egg deformed a little from the weight, so the two halves don't lay flat to each other. If I do this again, and for you folks thinking of using this method, I will put ribs inside the bulb to stiffen it, and fashion some sort of cradle to sit on that supports it so the bulb doesn't try to flatten out as the epoxy and lead set-up.

There were also pockets in the bulb that resin hadn't gotten to and I could hear the shot rattling around inside. If there's a next time, I'll place shot and pour resin in layers to ensure the resin gets everywhere it needs to be. What sounded like the biggest of these pockets was behind the flange? I modeled in for the plate to slide into. I opened the holes here to pour more resin in and hopefully fill this void.

I re-drilled to holes for the pin that will keep the bulb from sliding off the plate, and cut about a 3 inch length of 3/16" brass rod for the pin.
I mixed very fine sawdust from my band-saw with the epoxy to make a paste of it, and buttered both sides of the bulb, placed the pin, and plate, and put the other half on.

I used a sliver of wood as a wedge to hold the seam on top, where the plate enters, as close as I could, making something of a gap at the bottom. The epoxy butter filled this in fairly well, but the seam's open almost all the way around, which I'll fill with more epoxy butter.

The bulb also needs some clean-up from epoxy runs and cardboard that stuck to it; and I intend to wrap it in glass cloth as that'll be stronger than the resin alone if the boat should hit a rock or something.
 

The paint dry, things can be put in their places to check fit and alignments.

Then on to the forward winch-tray.
Reusing the blocks that were epoxied in for the rudder to sit on, I needed them taller and the angle change so the plane of this tray is level with the one aft.  I also need them a little longer because this tray will get slots cut into it so I can adjust it fore-and-aft to set the tension on the loop, and so the screw that hold it are accessible through the hatch.
The battery lays just aft of here as well, so I shaped the pieces like knees to over hang it a little while not interfering with access to it.  The added pieces are glued to the old rudder-servo mounts, but not having a good way to clamp them, I put a couple of bugle-head screws in, which I think I'll leave in there, since they're epoxy coated.
 
Here's a pic of the model with sub-deck laid in to show the access hatch openings as they'll be in the finished model.  The little hatch forward will most likely get decked over when the time comes as it's not really for anything.
The "engine room hatch" over the aft winch and the main hatch will be screwed down with rubber gaskets to prevent leakage since I expect this boat to be as wet as the real one was.

@Thukydides
Thank you for your nice comment, and everyone else for the many LIKES.
 
 
Equipment of the main royal yard – Vergue de grand cacatois
The royal yards are on the 4th floor of the rigging. Since these yards on the La Créole were obviously equipped with lifts and braces, it can be assumed that they were already an integral part of the ship's rigging. In contrast, until the end of the 18th century, the royal sails were often hoisted together with the yards and flown as fair-weather sails only when necessary, i.e. without braces and lifts.
To carry out the tyes for the royal yards of La Créole, I have photos of the original model at my disposal, which a restorer from the Musée de la Marine in Paris kindly photographed in the depot especially for me.
You can't see much in the following picture of a royal yard of the Paris model, except that the tye is somehow knotted and doesn't have a hook like that of the togallant yards.
 

Source: Musée national de la Marine de Paris – La Créole
 
Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime

In conjunction with the depiction of a royal yard from the Atlas du Génie Maritime and various other examples, the tyes may have looked like this.
 

 
My model implementation or interpretation of the tye ø 17 mm (ø 0.35 mm in model scale) for the main royal yard looks like this:


Next I made the parral. The royal yards receive a slightly simpler version of a parral, only served with ropes, without leather covering.


This was followed by the production of the single blocks for the royal yards. These were used to guide the clew lines - The clew lines for the main royal sail had a diameter of 11 mm (in the model scale ø 0.23 mm), accordingly the blocks were around 13.5 cm long (in the model scale approx. 2.8 mm) according to the table in the monograph .



After attaching the grommets as abrasion protection, the equipment of the main royal yard was completed by attaching the braces and lifts.

We then continue with the fore royal yard.
Sequel follows …

The next adventure and small intermezzo were the blocks under the fore fighting top. Here, leech- and buntline run colorfully mixed with the braces of the sprite sail yard and top yard through a wonderful collection of blocks.

The first attempt was the classic way of doing the strop first ...



... and then pull it through to the top from below and push the toggle through the upper loop.



It worked, but it was a rather messy and uneven act.



Then prepared another block, but didn't tie the top loop ...



... and pushed the free end from the bottom to the top, tied a loop there with an auxiliary thread and brought the free end back down.



Now I was able to pull the loop at the top tight from below, insert the toggle and adjust the length with the free ends of the binding, knot everything and neaten the whole thing.

It looks much better http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif



You can see the 3 different blocks, with the outer one having two differently sized wheels.

This is due to the fact that there are four rope thicknesses in use at this point, resulting in simply beautiful details.





And it also looks very tidy from above.



And if one wonders about the different layout of the battens, very simple: the Admirality Order from 20. Nov.1802 defines the tops of great ships to be done out of fir instead of oak and to be fitted in two halves http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif
This made the tops less haevy and far more easy to be exchanged if damaged.

Yay!

XXXDAn

The main yard was finally also finished so far, here is an overview of the collection of all the blocks that have now snuggled together. Always seen from both the front and the aft. And as already written earlier, the stirrups and foot horses will only be smoothed and provided with gravity during the final installation.





The center of the yard with the chain sling ...





... and the yard arm, 9 blocks in 8 sizes :-0





Then came the exciting moment, the test hanging http://www.shipmodels.info/mws_forum/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif

First the lifts.






Then the yard tackles with outer tricing line.



And usually as last the braces.





And there is another little tidbit that is not normally seen on models. According to Steel, the rope slings were replaced by chain slings in wartime, as can be seen in the pictures of the lifts. Consequently, the forward-facing preventer braces should also be fitted. These replaced the double pendant of the braces of the 1760s. For this purpose, the brace was attached to the rearmost shroud of the foremast, ran to a block on the front of the yard, back to a block on the rearmost shroud and from there to the forecastle.



Exciting.

XXXDAn

Someone over in Deven, England needed a pair of 2-banded Brooke rifls for a 1:48 scale model of the Confederate ironclad Neuse.
I hadn't printed either of the Brookes as yet, so I soon discovered some bits were missing, ie, I forgot to mirror a part to the other side of the gun, actually, just the slide. 
I fixed the STL on Thingiverse, but to fix the already printed models, I printed that part and a couple of eye-bolts separately, attached them to the models with resin zapped with UV light.
They're carefully packed and off to England, making me an International Arms Dealer    It's very expensive shipping a 95 gram box to the UK from the US, over $30 USD in fact, but he was adamant there was no one local to 3D print them for him.

Someone over in Deven, England needed a pair of 2-banded Brooke rifls for a 1:48 scale model of the Confederate ironclad Neuse.
I hadn't printed either of the Brookes as yet, so I soon discovered some bits were missing, ie, I forgot to mirror a part to the other side of the gun, actually, just the slide. 
I fixed the STL on Thingiverse, but to fix the already printed models, I printed that part and a couple of eye-bolts separately, attached them to the models with resin zapped with UV light.
They're carefully packed and off to England, making me an International Arms Dealer    It's very expensive shipping a 95 gram box to the UK from the US, over $30 USD in fact, but he was adamant there was no one local to 3D print them for him.

Someone over in Deven, England needed a pair of 2-banded Brooke rifls for a 1:48 scale model of the Confederate ironclad Neuse.
I hadn't printed either of the Brookes as yet, so I soon discovered some bits were missing, ie, I forgot to mirror a part to the other side of the gun, actually, just the slide. 
I fixed the STL on Thingiverse, but to fix the already printed models, I printed that part and a couple of eye-bolts separately, attached them to the models with resin zapped with UV light.
They're carefully packed and off to England, making me an International Arms Dealer    It's very expensive shipping a 95 gram box to the UK from the US, over $30 USD in fact, but he was adamant there was no one local to 3D print them for him.

I was going to make a Marsilly type carriage for the 110# Armstrong rifle, but found this drawing on the NMM site, which is basically the Warrior's pivots, so went with that.

So far this is what I have

In the mean-time, the XI inch Dahlgren on the iron pivot carriage is looking like this...

As mentioned, Constellation, as a training ship in the 1870's, was armed with the XI Dahlgren, and a 100# Parrott rifle on a wooden carriage on her gun-deck, with the corresponding gunports widened to 10 feet.
here's something to compare the two...

The X inch Dahlgren's and the deck tracks for them are practically done, but that's in my Constellation log.
The next WIP is the XI inch on an iron pivot.  I've found many images of iron carriages, but all of them are from the 1880's and 1890's when some new technology had been applied, and I'm doing an 1870's version that's basically a war-time wood carriage done in iron.

The drawing posted earlier is what I'm working from, but the person that drew it did it as an illustration for a sci-fi story, so I can't be sure of it's authenticity.
At any rate, I'm picking a way at it....

Next up I think I'll do Dalhgren's rifle from this image

Since I'm replacing the Constellation's pivot guns with this X inch Dahlgren, need to print three of them; 2 for the model, and one for the sampler of Constellation's guns.
Here's the second gun fresh off the printer.  The first one lost a roller, but that can be fixed.  The slide on these gun are shorter than the previous gun's slides, so new deck tracks had to be made to fit.  The third gun hasn't been printed yet.

The pair sitting on the model's main hatch.

The old tracks removed, the access hatches sanded, and refinished with the primed guns and tracks sitting in place.

Someone over in Deven, England needed a pair of 2-banded Brooke rifls for a 1:48 scale model of the Confederate ironclad Neuse.
I hadn't printed either of the Brookes as yet, so I soon discovered some bits were missing, ie, I forgot to mirror a part to the other side of the gun, actually, just the slide. 
I fixed the STL on Thingiverse, but to fix the already printed models, I printed that part and a couple of eye-bolts separately, attached them to the models with resin zapped with UV light.
They're carefully packed and off to England, making me an International Arms Dealer    It's very expensive shipping a 95 gram box to the UK from the US, over $30 USD in fact, but he was adamant there was no one local to 3D print them for him.

And at some point we got serious with the foot horses. First the thimbles were tied into the stirrups and the four-pack on each side was secured against being breathed away.



Then average out the distances for the stirrups.



For the distance between the thimble and the upper reference point, I made a small 9 mm gauge so that the distance is even when being glued down. Then 3 turns with the free end and glued that on too. When all 4 stirrups were in place, the foot horse was pulled through the thimbles and secured with an external knot before and after the thimble to prevent it from slipping through.



Then a short standing test, and lo and behold, it looks quite plausible.



Then knotted the eye on the inside of the foot horse to secure it. It was THE perfect eye. But I had overlooked the fact that the clamp on the other side of the yardarm went further out than expected, see orange thread ...

... so I cut off the eye and spliced in an extension, luckily it's hardly noticeable at this point, uffz.




This time the length was better and the eye was lashed with 4 turns on the other side of the yard.



Here is the finished ensemble and ...



... even our little able seaman was happy with it up there.



XXXDAn

USS only applies to COMMISSIONED Naval Vessels of the United States and wasn't officially used until Executive Order 549 in 1907

Do you just want it done so you can move on?  Is there a deadline?  Cutting corners may get you somewhere faster, but it tends to magnify errors, not just in looks, but in frequency.
I glued all 500ish piece of scale-length decking (cut from 4 foot lengths) on my 5 foot long hull when I easily could have scribed some plywood.  There were a couple of places I had to pull a piece off and put in another, reusing the removed piece somewhere else.  That would have been a bigger pain using full 4 foot lengths.  When it was done, none of the left-over scrap was longer than an inch, so doing it this way was a more efficient use of materials.
 
I recommend all planking/plating be done in scale pieces on anything 1:64 scale and up, because you get more from it that way.  The decision,of course, is only yours to make.

USS only applies to COMMISSIONED Naval Vessels of the United States and wasn't officially used until Executive Order 549 in 1907

Continuation: Equipping the mizzen topgallant yard - Vergue de perruche
After the small mishap, as reported, I have now made a new mizzen topgallant yard and fully equipped it. This means that the topgallant yard chapter can be put to bed until it is installed on the model.
Here is a picture of the finished mizzen topgallant yard. 

And another picture with the tye.

 
The next picture shows different yards of the French corvette in size comparison. In the center you can see the mizzen topgallant yard. Above it is the mizzen royal yard and finally the middle section of the main yard is shown below.
 
The next step is to equip the royal yards with the necessary rigging elements. Then I'll finally have finished fitting out the yards.
To be continued ...
 

USS only applies to COMMISSIONED Naval Vessels of the United States and wasn't officially used until Executive Order 549 in 1907

Do you just want it done so you can move on?  Is there a deadline?  Cutting corners may get you somewhere faster, but it tends to magnify errors, not just in looks, but in frequency.
I glued all 500ish piece of scale-length decking (cut from 4 foot lengths) on my 5 foot long hull when I easily could have scribed some plywood.  There were a couple of places I had to pull a piece off and put in another, reusing the removed piece somewhere else.  That would have been a bigger pain using full 4 foot lengths.  When it was done, none of the left-over scrap was longer than an inch, so doing it this way was a more efficient use of materials.
 
I recommend all planking/plating be done in scale pieces on anything 1:64 scale and up, because you get more from it that way.  The decision,of course, is only yours to make.