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Nirvana

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Everything posted by Nirvana

  1. Nigel, it certainly is rock hard, wish it came with Obeche especially for the curve around the stern. But as this one still awaits to be built I have plenty of time changing the planking material.
  2. Yes and hmm, my Billings kit of Danmark (limited version) is supposed to use ramin for hull planking. That's at least to their material list. According to a site handling wood there are 30+ species of this wood, many of them are "farm raised".
  3. Michael, a warm Welcome onboard MSW 2, Looking forward of your progress of "Wappen" This kit today of yours is listed at USD 1450.00 through ageofsail, that with updated laser cut parts. Seahawk fan? Just wondering because of your "name"
  4. Floyd, you are way ahead of me, besides if I am to do a second layer I am way behind. I found America easier to plank with walnut due to her lines.
  5. Floyd my friend. That second planking of yours looks really nice, I am still debating for single or double. The single (1.5mm walnut) is tough as the single strip wants to another way than the profile of the hull. Looking good!
  6. Late night update, The 1.5 mm single layer walnut is progressing. I am planking in "four bulkhead sections" The grain is beautiful so I am still not sure whether to varnish or paint the hull.. Maybe half and half, underneath waterline painted and above varnished.
  7. Puckotred, First of all, a warm welcome to MSW, I tried to acquire this model when it was available from "Acrossthepond", I am very glad to see this kit being done and will follow the progress intently. My father built SS Mariefred long time ago. Turned out beautiful, however that kit has a plastic hull.
  8. Mark, No motorcycle but named after one of my dogs. Hope you have your own popcorn as I ran out of them.
  9. Secondly, buy your own curling iron, they are not expensive and comes with different diameters. I have got two for less than 30 dollars which I can regulate the heat on. The latest style but much more expensive is the steaming curling iron.
  10. Curling irons works with 1.5mm thick walnut strips, the strips needs to be soaked before applying heat. Some care and not overheat has worked fine for me.
  11. I have done all the planking without any clamping. In the book "ship modeling simplified" Frank Mastini uses a gluing method of both wood glue and CA. The CA works like clamps and the wood glue for strength.
  12. How would you explain that to Bear? The plans are not laminated per say, but stuck in between two pieces of 4mm plexiglass.
  13. With the mast holes cut accordingly to plans (with little more rake) I added material to each side of the false keel, matching the shaved mast. Now since that is done I added the masts with the "stays" getting the rake, just for visual purpose. I added side blocks at the mast steps.
  14. How Harvey/Harley was naked The mast holes was cut out using templates from the plan. I did change the rake a little to the aft, which would have been more appropriate to the time between 1790-1830 for "this type classes of ships". There is very little of back ground history of this ships from this time. One book to rely to when it comes to Rigging is the book of Lennarth Peterson - Rigging Period Ship Models
  15. With added material I did have some area to add glue to for the planking.
  16. Okay to back to the beginning When I started this kit I didn't realize there were discriminates of dimensions material list versus real items. This resulted with added material to bulkheads but also to the deck aligned. This picture shows how bad it was. With the aftermath and added work I should have made new bulkheads from the beginning. Bulkheads and the added material. Sorry to have the metric measure upside down. Part list shows the bulkheads at 6mm. Real part is much more narrow.
  17. Floyd, I won't even be near you when it comes to planking...... The "bubble effect" is not bubbles but a mix of glue and walnut dust
  18. A long time of no posting and several requests has made me to start the next Harvey project build log. This build has been going on for some time. Many changes and alterations has been done to the original parts, this due to material not measuring to the material list dimensions. This picture is the latest one some ten minutes old, before uploading. From this point I will go back to the start and explain what I have done as there are several changes, this in my best way. Have patience with me, as this kit will be kit bashed. not knowing the final physical outcome. This picture also shows partial of the pre-bending of walnut strips. As I am intending a single layer planking.If I fail I can go to double layer. By putting the paper clips on each bulkhead I can there-after put soaked strips through the holes and get the right bending. Some of the pictures from this build has appeared in other topics.
  19. The weathering solution works fine, just be careful not to let it soak in to much as it will get more of a grey-ash coloring. I bought my bottle at a rail model store. But yes, try before using it on the entire deck.
  20. Thank you for that simple informative video. So simple yet so useful.
  21. Blackie, I am following your build with interest just like Floyd, There are details I am to implement to my build . Thank you for all the drawings.
  22. Michael, any decent fly fishing shop has the bobbin (hangers), found one at Cabelas for 4 dollars (don't recommend it) and upward.
  23. Many of our instructions reads: "after placing the first two or three hull planking under the deck, find the most natural way for the "main" strake. With my current project X, I have found not one but four natural lines for the planking strips to follow without twisting and bending. Should I follow them and add in the missing and twisted? I have divided the hull into three sections, and just following the hull line seems more natural to me. Again, just my two cents
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