Nirvana
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Everything posted by Nirvana
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I have done all the planking without any clamping. In the book "ship modeling simplified" Frank Mastini uses a gluing method of both wood glue and CA. The CA works like clamps and the wood glue for strength.
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How would you explain that to Bear? The plans are not laminated per say, but stuck in between two pieces of 4mm plexiglass.
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With the mast holes cut accordingly to plans (with little more rake) I added material to each side of the false keel, matching the shaved mast. Now since that is done I added the masts with the "stays" getting the rake, just for visual purpose. I added side blocks at the mast steps.
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How Harvey/Harley was naked The mast holes was cut out using templates from the plan. I did change the rake a little to the aft, which would have been more appropriate to the time between 1790-1830 for "this type classes of ships". There is very little of back ground history of this ships from this time. One book to rely to when it comes to Rigging is the book of Lennarth Peterson - Rigging Period Ship Models
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Planking as it is right now.
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With added material I did have some area to add glue to for the planking.
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Okay to back to the beginning When I started this kit I didn't realize there were discriminates of dimensions material list versus real items. This resulted with added material to bulkheads but also to the deck aligned. This picture shows how bad it was. With the aftermath and added work I should have made new bulkheads from the beginning. Bulkheads and the added material. Sorry to have the metric measure upside down. Part list shows the bulkheads at 6mm. Real part is much more narrow.
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Floyd, I won't even be near you when it comes to planking...... The "bubble effect" is not bubbles but a mix of glue and walnut dust
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A long time of no posting and several requests has made me to start the next Harvey project build log. This build has been going on for some time. Many changes and alterations has been done to the original parts, this due to material not measuring to the material list dimensions. This picture is the latest one some ten minutes old, before uploading. From this point I will go back to the start and explain what I have done as there are several changes, this in my best way. Have patience with me, as this kit will be kit bashed. not knowing the final physical outcome. This picture also shows partial of the pre-bending of walnut strips. As I am intending a single layer planking.If I fail I can go to double layer. By putting the paper clips on each bulkhead I can there-after put soaked strips through the holes and get the right bending. Some of the pictures from this build has appeared in other topics.
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Weathering Deck Planks
Nirvana replied to Glenn-UK's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
The weathering solution works fine, just be careful not to let it soak in to much as it will get more of a grey-ash coloring. I bought my bottle at a rail model store. But yes, try before using it on the entire deck. -
A video about attaching blocks to spars and masts
Nirvana replied to Modeler12's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
Thank you for that simple informative video. So simple yet so useful. -
Floyd, sssh That's is project X lol
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Blackie, I am following your build with interest just like Floyd, There are details I am to implement to my build . Thank you for all the drawings.
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Michael, any decent fly fishing shop has the bobbin (hangers), found one at Cabelas for 4 dollars (don't recommend it) and upward.
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Many of our instructions reads: "after placing the first two or three hull planking under the deck, find the most natural way for the "main" strake. With my current project X, I have found not one but four natural lines for the planking strips to follow without twisting and bending. Should I follow them and add in the missing and twisted? I have divided the hull into three sections, and just following the hull line seems more natural to me. Again, just my two cents
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Janos, I am intending to use it both with regular soldering iron but also with the micro butane solder. I will try to give MM a call tomorrow to hear more about the issue of burned areas, and areas that peels off. I will get back to you. Thank you for the feed back.
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I have on several encounters has issues with soldering, especially when it comes to add a third to first part with out un-soldering the first part. There are so many times when soldering include several parts. How have you solved this problem? I have found a soldering pad from Micromark I like to try out, but wonder if any one has tried the before? I am very happy to make an order to try it out, if not and make a review.
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I will certainly try Cherry or Pear for planking in another project, so far the walnut has worked just fine for me, both bending and splicing. Having a neighbor with Cherry and Pear, Apple orchard close by, gonna make sure to get some of the wood for kiln drying and cutting next year. Two pieces of walnut with the one minute method gluing CA points at the ends and in the middle and then regular Titebond I in between. Works almost like epoxy, the CA grips directly and the.wood glue gives the strength.
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I am very careful using putty, as my father said once "use it with moderation" Attached you find my current build build, one of the sides has gotten a treatment of putty.
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Where Do You Keep Your Working Plans
Nirvana replied to BubbleHead's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Thank you very much for a fantastic presentation of your workshop, short and consist, I just need "my perfect" workshop, if it ever will exist. -
Thank you for the tip will try it with walnut.
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Meredith, I looked into the fretsaw of yours and from the company. They also have one with swivel blade clamps on both sides, price 93 dollars!
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Russ and Mark plus everybody else, thank you for the help, I think I have the correct directions of where to go with this AL kit. Build log will be there, for this Project X, which has a name.
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Well this model is supposed to have the soft limewood as first layer and then topped with thin walnut. However, it came with thick walnut base layer and then to have thin walnut on top. But I have decided to go single layer. That's the background to my question. My Constructo America was supposed to have dual layer, but I went single since it was to be painted. The America also had the thick walnut base layer. The America got the keels installed afterwards which contributed to difficulties with the rabbet lines. Thank you all for the information and your point of views.
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Where Do You Keep Your Working Plans
Nirvana replied to BubbleHead's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have the overview plan in between two pieces of 1/4" plexiglass and one on the wall, the one on the wall do have tiles of cork behind so I can pin them.
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