Nirvana
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LFrank, I will get a bigger for my next project, thank you for the tip!
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I have found in several instructions especially from AL that you should plank the hull before adding the keel to the false keel. Wonder if it isn't better to add it before planking, this in order to get the correct rabbet line? Anyone who knows better? Thank you -
I had to add with material on the sides of the bulkheads as they were much thinner than the material list stated. I used basswood for this. However I added on with wood at the edge level and about 1cm inwards, didn't see the purpose of covering the whole bulkhead. It's not as porous as balsa and can handle CA glue much better as well. As for the filler I used 3/16 basswood against bulkhead and false keel then added with a balsa block. Once that was dried, I "painted" the balsa surface with diluted Titebond I, this way the combination of CA and Titebond I will have plenty of grip area.
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J.Pett, See following link for this amazing saw. It's exactly the same I got from Woodcraft local store.
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Jpett, Cross grain sawing is not an issue with this saw, does it beautifully.
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Thank you Bill for the test,
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I must apologize, you are Casey and not Brian. Please forgive me.....
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Brian, Before gluing the bulkheads and any further filing (unless it's to late) compare the bulkhead towards the plan. Just to make sure the dimensions are right from the start. Just my 2cents
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Rich, a tea kettle works fine, the steam will be at 105 degree C, careful not to burn your hand or fingers. Works great as well.
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I was working with some bulkheads and notice a difference between port and starboard side on a certain bulkhead. Some time ago I bought a profile copy gauge thinking it could come handy some day with model building. And yes, it did. I checked one side and compared it to the plans, perfect match. Now I had the correct profile and just traced it over to the wrong side. This tool is made out of metal, a little to heavy weight wise for this purpose but there is one very accurate available made in plastic, that will be on my purchase list.
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grsjax, This is what found about your wood. Source : wikepedia Breadfruit was widely and diversely used among Pacific Islanders. Its lightweight wood (specific gravity of 0.27) is resistant to termites and shipworms, so is used as timber for structures and outrigger canoes. Considering it's lightweight, I would give it a shot. In comparison Balsa wood has a specific gravity of 0.16, (less dense) Basswood varies between 0.3-0.4 (popular for carving) Poplar has a value at 0.34 European limewood a value of 0.56 Boxwood are at 0.67, just to give you some numbers to relate to. Also the wood of yours is being used by guitar builders. Good luck
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Cabela's has fly tying vises from 13 dollars upward.
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Mobsie, Many thanks for the demo, my wife picked up a complete Thompson Model A vise at a yard sale for 3 dollars a couple of years ago, so this means I need one more.
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Mark, I hope your wife doesn't read what you just wrote, otherwise Santas cover has been blown.
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This type of saw is very common amongst tree trimmers as this saw cuts both forward and backward motion. But yes, it has one side with double teeth, between two big one you will find small teeths. Take a look at this picture
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Recently I bought a japanese saw, Yesterday I tried it for ripping, and WOW, I was blown away. I took a 1/8" basswood sheet and draw a straight line using an aluminium waterlevel. This saw is amazing to cut straight, the only drawback, it is not as fast as a Byrnes table saw. Hint hint .... Mr Santa
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Brian, Titebond III is the one that is even waterproof, green label. The color of labels may differ for countries, though.
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Harvey, ebony as cap rail and wales....... that would be very beautiful, would really stand out!
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Harvey, if you don't need some of the stash I am more than happy to ease the load. Me and wife will be in Seattle in a couple of weeks.
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Harvey, Ebony is such a hard a nice wood. Use this wood "as is" the grain is extremely fine. "Takes finishes well, and finishes to a high luster. Ebony is commonly used for small ornamental purposes, such as piano keys, musical instrument parts, pool cues, carvings. Great for knobs, pulls, inlays and accents in cabinetry. Somewhat difficult to machine, but worth the reward. Excellent turning wood. Africa." I would use the ebony for belaying pins, and items I would like to "highlight" on my ships. But that's just my two cents
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Kriss, Looking very good, as Wasa is shaping up for you. I started Airfix Wasa back in the mid -70's, still only the partial painted hull halfs with painted canons and deck only glued in my old room @ my parents home. The box with all parts are still there too. I was too young to concur such a build at the time.
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Glen, There is a model club here in Spokane. Maybe something to join.
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Sanders and rasps again?
Nirvana replied to Nirvana's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Coleman, the total length is 1 7/8" (4.5cm) including the shank, which is almost half of the length. The shank diameter is 1/8" or 3.175 mm Check Kutzalls website out. -
Michael, Who ever is in the picture doesn't look to happy, wonder how long time it will take to rigg and get her ready to sail? This weighs in at 160 kg that's 320lb+
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And it's sanctioned by AMYA as well, if I remembered it right. Would love to have this yacht. But as it is right now, to many on the shelf plus all the plans.
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