Nirvana

Steve, I like the idea that you kept following through with the idea of finish this kit even though you could had gotten a laser cut model for 70 quids. My hat off for your dedication. Looking forward to the see this yacht on display.

Popeye, Hopefully I won't mislead you....😁 along the way. Thanks for the comment.

With summer break around the corner I can understand there will be less time with the ship. However, I like the progress and many of us has taken even longer time between updates and commitment to our builds. No hurry, we will be here just rolling our thumbs doing nothing and waiting for another update. lol ☺

Here waterway inserted between the bulkheads on the supports.

The waterway is fashioned the same as we plank the hull. With the ingenious paperclips. Once I have the these two planks in place I am to add on support at the bulwark stanchion extension, that hasn't been notched. This way I will have maximum gluing area for the waterways between the stanchions.

Looking at pictures online from Bluenose II and how the foredeck is planked I started wondering if I could take another approach. Bluenose II only has two waterways. They are wider. I don't know if the original Bluenose only had two or not. But what I recall, they build Bluenose II according to the original. Don't know if it will be possible with the kit. But this is certainly something for those that are building the later version of her as this will be accurate.

While shaping the waterways (one at the time due to space at the bow) I finalizing the shape of the stern.

Eddie, I also have Gene's practicum for references while building the kit.

So building is progressing. This kit came amazingly with a stand. As usual pictures is now uploaded for your convenience. I have all the rigging line and blocks from our friend Chuck. Paying attention and reading quite a few other Bluenose build log, I wanted to make sure that I didn't break the stern part. So the first thing I did along with dry-fitting the bulkheads was making sure I made blocks to insert in-between the sensitive parts. The material is just amazing and very nice to work with. Thanks to a perfect straight false keel (4 years old) the bulkheads got a perfect fit where the lego blocks was just an assurance for final perpendicular setting. What I forgot to do was the thin the bulkheads prior the installation of them. Doing so will eliminate and stress and breakage of bulkhead and false keel. But thanks to my great tool the micro saw, this was done without and damage. In order to find the right line for the hull planking the waterways is to be installed prior. Now when looking at the plans the beam and great beams needs to be installed before the waterway is in put In place. These pieces are to be installed on bulkhead H. If the waterways are installed before, you will not be able to get them in place. Both of these beams are really crucial as they will provide support for all deck planking. This is not mentioned in either the instructions nor the practicum from Mr. Hunt.

A real femur bone, will keep her occupied for hours and then she will be tired falling asleep on a nice cushion or dog bed in the workshop. That metalwork you are doing is so good, I am considering sending you the raw metal that I have to make wonders for me and Syren. lol Beautiful work.

Okay, call me crazy if you like as this will be number three of models that I will be working on. But as I haven't encountered any problems with this one, I will proceed with the build of the famous Bluenose. This while I wait for parts for the Syren and Solo. I guess this kit doesn't need any introduction or picture of contents. So I will leave that out, however I do have extra material that I will be using later while building her. This extra comes from Syren Model Company, with other word our dear Chuck Passaro. This kit was bought many years ago and the keel and bulkhead plywood is still straight. When I was putting the false keel pieces together it turned out so straight I was amazed. The plywood is very nice and very little sanding is needed to get the bulkheads into each slot. Creating the rabbet was not as hard as I thought. Just being careful at the bow where the rabbet is extreme. I pre-beveled the bulkheads so there will be less sanding once they are glued in place.

Keith, I am giving my helper a bone while in the shop, this way I have the company of him while I am fiddling with my build. That metal work is very nice.

Rich, Isn't this what is so great with MSW, making friends with similar hobbies and interests. That's how I met some of the people from here and getting involved with RC sailing as an example. Enjoy the trip, I know you will like it.

Thank you Chuck!

Bill and everybody else, don't worry I won't close the thread, it's on hold for the time being. The pdfs from Chuck will be available for everyone.

Rich, you don't have to write with capital letters, I understand you anyway. Yes, ship modeling is always about winging it, however, it is good to have a solid base to work from.

I will re-open this build log once I have the correct items from ModelExpo. Mr. Mosko has been amazing and replying very fast. He is on top of my problem.

Material list is dated back to February 2014, no dates on the plans besides the copyright date of 2007. Syren is now boxed, awaiting news from ModelExpo.

Severe frustration with this kit is setting in, After using several calipers (mechanical and digital) and several rulers all shows the same result for me. The plywood provided is to thick, instead of the 3/16" (4.7625mm) they measure 13/64" (5.16mm), this is huge at this scale. It was no wonder that the jig I had made didn't fit the 3/16", this after I used a aluminum square for the center opening. With that the nothing is right. I went outside had plan two and three along, put one on top of the other on the glass table, with the sun I could clearly see differences between the plans and measures. The BF doesn't match at all, one is longer than the other but not taller, and the bulk head openings are not lining up. The Scale 3/16" - 1' bar seems to be correct, but as it is so short it's hard to tell. Have no idea what kind of "Monday" model I got. Am about to give up with Syren.

Chuck, thank you very much for the pdf's I am certain they will help. I am currently exchanging email with Mr. Mosko at ModelExpo with this matter. The plans are not correct either.

Not considering the beveling of the deck shape, but when lining up the BF with the deck template it is really off. Doing the same thing towards Sheet one, perfect match between BF and deck plan.

So, I had the template cut and joined. Reading Bill in Lewistons build log he had run into a problem with them as the didn't line up. I thought when viewing his picture that he hadn't lined it up properly, so I checked my template versus my warped false BF, and sure enough I had the same problem. Then I checked the template versus sheet 2, and lo and behold they were different. Placing the BF on sheet 2 we have a perfect match. Then I measured with both a ruler and caliper. This between frame 4 and ∞ On the template the distance is 36.25mmm, while on sheet 2 distance is 37.8mm exactly the same as the physical BF. My solution, scan the part of representing the template from sheet two and use that. See inserted pictures. Checking the deck plan, same problem. I will post pdf files here for everyones use.

Bill, my templates are off as well but when comparing to sheet 2, framing plan the BF is perfect. If you have a printer with scanning feature use sheet 2 to make a copy for the pattern. I am to do a trial and if it works I will post it for you.

Bill take a look at this picture and you are good.

Bill, you are one frame off from the bow, move the strip one frame forward and it will be better.