Nirvana

you've made some great progress since I last looked in!    highly superior workmanship   

Absolutely gorgeous Bug, a real credit to you
 
Nick

That's a major milestone, Bug.    I love it and the great way you did the anchors. 

Ron:
The photo below is of the Badger Air Brush spray booth - the fan is 165 cfm.  It is more than adequate for the 13" x 18" size of this unit.  There are times I do not turn on the fan because the air movement draws the paint away from the object being painted.  Using only acrylics, so turning it off isn't a big deal. 
 
I think you may be overpowering the spray booth with the 250 cfm unit but with the depth of your unit being so deep, moving the object out and away from the rear of the box might be the answer to too much air movement.
 
I used 4" metal duct off the fan to go up from the fan, over to the center of the unit - past the motor - and then down.  I secure a nylon stocking over the end of the metal duct to catch any over-spray that isn't caught by the filter in the unit - and some does get by.  Being acrylic, the stuff that gets by the filter is dry particulate and is caught in the piece of stocking.  Also, the Badger paints are virtually odorless so I have never been encouraged by the ADMIRAL to exhaust to the exterior.
 
I like the design you are using and the plexi panes are a nice addition.  Look for a 2' led type light for the top - the more light the better.  I added a light to the top of the Badger unit that is just outside of the front of the box.  This is OK as most of the time my work sits just outside the front of the box anyway to have access to the part being painted, but your location is the optimal location.  The 165 cfm fan in the Badger unit is entirely adequate to catch the over-spray and pull it to the filter so you won't have any problems if you bring the object forward.
 
You will probably want to get a turntable of some sort.  I use the one by Tamiya and every so often I drop it into the paint remover to clean up the top turntable surface.  I have a larger turntable but it's finished wood so I cover it with a piece of newspaper so it stays clean - when it's not being used in the spray booth it sits on the table where club members use it to access the snacks during meetings.
 
Following with interest.  Be sure to let us know how the unit works.
 
Kurt

2/16
 
After looking at a few spray booths, and plans, here is what I'm planning on building. The top has a cutout for a light, I'll put plexiglass in the opening. The top hinges up so I can have more access to the top of the model, or to clear masts, if needed.
 

 
The front lip will also be a plexi piece. I think I'll use plastic wrap as an inside cover to both clear parts. I can strip it off and replace it, when it gets coated.

2/15
Today I had an epiphany. I've been shopping around for a fan to use in a spray paint booth. I'm going to be using acrylic, so "explosion proof" is not a neccessity, even if I could find one. The internet sites say 500 CFM.  Seems a bit high, but start there So, I've been looking at the squirrel cage type with the motor outside the case. Non explosion ones on Ebay with ~150 CFM go for about $60 US. I next thought of using an old dryer blower and motor. Used driers are about $100. I stopped and asked about broken ones at the local places, $35 or more.
 
 
Then I remembered the old electric leaf blower that has been dragging around my shop for 6 years, that my wife bought at a yard sale. Squirrel cage, motor  outside the blower housing, and lots of CFM. I think I have a volunteer!! I'll probably end up building an outside box to house it, to cut down on the noise, but for now construction can begin.
 
After some discussion, about 500 or 600 CFM being way too much flow,  I found a 250 CFM blower on Ebay, and bought that. The leaf blower idea, though, did get me moving on construction.
 
2/15
 
The trouble with the regular hood and bath fans is that the motor is in the air stream, and the vapors (if solvent type) can deteriorate the insulation. The squirrel cage hood fans run about 30 to 50 CFM, too low.
 
You can get new SC fans with about 130 CFM for $60, but if that is not enough, I've wasted the money. The leaf blower is rated 600 CFM. If that is too much I can ramp it down, to find the right value. A 500 CFM new fan runs about $150.
 
A drier runs about 130 also, if I can find a free one, I can try that later.

Started a new thread about the construction of my spray booth. I started detailing it on the “What have you done today” thread, but figured that that was to much info to clutter it with.
 
I’m going to put the earlier postings in with the date I posted them, then continue in this thread. So the beginning may be somewhat choppy, stick with me.

The pump looks good.

Thanks guys! The paint is Tamiya flat black and flat red.
Steve

Keith,
You will have support along the way as for the longboat.

Keith,
You will have support along the way as for the longboat.

Talk about a complete take over of Floyd's original blog.....
 
Yves

Too bad AJ Fisher is not open at the moment.  They had great fittings.
David B

G;Day Sir Floyd , I love building Scratch built Model ships , My latest is one of the J boat Endeavour  , It is solid mahogany , Mapel stripes for sheer and water line and Walnut top side , coming along quite well , Havent figured out quite how to post photos here yet , I am having dificulty finding the hardware for this one , the Wheel and winches and all ..Trying to contact Amati as there Kit is about the same size as my modell is at 50" , Prehaps if anyone knows how to aquire the fitting kit frome Amati I would sure be gratefull , ..The Plank on Frame boat you completed looks Grand by the way ..Verry profesional job ..Thank You ..I do notice no one seems to build the Endeavour as she looks today after Elizabeth Meyer Re Build with an Engine and propeller... Wish i could post a photo of mine nearing completion here , needs deck hardware and installing the Spars and rigging yet , But the Hull is done ...Well G'Day Sir Floyd.....Thank You ....Frank....out

Thanks guys for the vote of confidence. I will finish this weekend (the Admiral is going to be out of town!)

Floyd,
 
You have been blocked by this hull for quite some time. Gather your courage and skills and let's smooth that hull.
A nice coat of primer will show you all the imperfections(as you realized), and more coats of primer will make it perfect.
After that a nice layer of glossy paint will finish it all.
 
Good luck. You are almost there.
Yves

Hi Floyd, I agree with Yves, you are almost there
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Pete - I think when I went for the 1:35 scale I did not realize what I had gotten myself into. I might have been better off with Dave's kit. But both of us have the same design by the same manufacturer. If I can get past the issues I am having right now with the hull planking (read learning experience). I will be able to paint, plank the deck and build the deck furniture. This kit has some wonderful details. I can't wait to get there.

Hi Floyd, Intresting build you have here , I did not realize that you were building one as well, I noticed your build when I was looking in on Dave's Endeavour, Nice work I will follow along. She's looking Good. Nice work
 
Best Regards,
Pete

Bob - I would do the epoxy idea except for a couple of issues - 1 is that I would have to cut into the false deck. by itself not a big deal but then you come to the real concern - How do I get past the bulkheads? I don't relish cutting into those.
 
I think Blackie has the right approach. If I carefully use wood glue and his putty...? So this log will go dark for a couple of weeks while I try these things and do a little enjoying the summer.

If the deck is not on yet, epoxy the inside to stiffen the planks.
 
Bob

Floyd
The spray putty is available here at the auto parts shops for about $10. It looks and works like a large can of insect spray. The one that I am using goes on easily with a few passes to cover the hull - try not to go over the area already done and it takes about 4/5 minutes to dry before you do another coat. The extra coat is only if you can still see some dents which show up easily just like your primer coat shows them. In theory the can says to allow about 4 hours before you sand but I have found that after say 1/2 hour you can give it a light sand to see if you will need any more coats. The instructions on your can will give you guidance.
Blackie

Blackie - That's a great Idea. How thick is the layer once it is sprayed on? I will go try to find some. Is it something that is carried in an auto parts store?

Wow, still cant get over how big the 1:35 scale is! Looks good. I tackled some painting this weekend also, and you're right about how much that first primer coat lets you know you're not finished! I'm worried about my waterline...I got lucky and drew a perfect waterline on bluenose the first time I tried on her, but had a little trouble on this one.
 
Good luck with the rest of painting and filling...looking forward to seeing more updates.

Hi Floyd
 
It's good to hear from you. In my other life as a volunteer modeller for a small maritime museum I am making a small model of an old harbour pilot boat. The hull is shaped from two solid halves built up from MDF board and is about 500mm long. I found that wood filler works well for largish dents but another modeller recommended using automotive spray putty for the small imperfections. Over the last week I have been using the putty and it has been really good though I'm not sure how it would handle flexing planks if that problem is still occurring. The putty sands very easily with first 400 then 800 grit for a very smooth finish ready for painting. The other modeller has used the putty with excellent results for painted hulls just like yours.
 
Blackie