AON

what is the flanged hole under the support just to the right of the centre of the last photo?

The photo below is my setup for soft soldering two breech rings at a time. The soldering station was purchased from https://gesswein.ca/products/grs-soldering-station They were considerably less expensive when I got mine! It is meant for silver soldering, but I normally use it when using my butane torch and copper-phosphorus wire solder. This solder allows me to blacken the copper wire and solder joint with LOS (Liver of Sulphur). The 60/40 soft solder I used on the thin gauge copper wire here (0.5 mm = 0.02" dia) will not blacken with LOS so I used a black permanent marker as I've seen done by other modellers in our local club.

I also have a copy of the tables by Edwin Newell Rich from NRG spring 1962 issue 12-1

I have a copy of the table Tackle + Breeching scantlings The Sea-gunner's Vade-mecum Being a New Introduction to Practical Gunnery by Robert Simmons, 1812 It would be interesting to compare this to your table. Would please you send me a copy.

For those interested ... The 0.5 mm (0.02") diameter copper wire was from Billings Boats: P/N 04-BF-022A The package has two coils but they do not state the length. I emailed them and they told me each coil is 250 cm (98.4"/coil)... so I can now figure out how much more I might need to complete 74 guns. The formula for sizing the eye bolt and breech rope ring wire size and the breech ring diameter was found in the NRJ Publication 36-2, page 100: Sizing Gun-Tackle and Breeching Eyebolts and Rings - Published by I.R.Butts (Boston, 1858) It states that to calculate the size of wire for carriage gun-tackle eye bolts and breeching rope rings, "multiply the diameter of shot by 0.2, the answer is the diameter in 8ths". It also states that the breech ring inner diameter is "to be in the clear of the diameter of the shot". I found a table that stated the inside diameter of the eye (the loop) was in essence clear of the diameter of the wire: 32Pdr @ 1.83" inner diameter = 0.028" at 1:64

Completed the painting of all 28 x 32 Pdr carriages and the assembly of one. Carriage painting was done with brushes. Three coats of yellow ochre and then spots with black. Could have used younger, steadier hands for the fine black touch ups... but it look fine from 12" away. The camera hides nothing! The cannon was spray painted with acrylic flat black some time ago, multiple coats. I tried highlighting the reinforcing rings and royal cypher with a smokey grey but it made a mess as it is all so tiny. The cap square is card stock blackened with a permanent marker. The one end is curled over itself. The cap square chain is simply black sewing thread. I tried a finger knitted chain stitch, which look quite good until set up to the carriage and it was about 3X too large for the scale. The eye bolts and breech ring are made with 0.02" (5mm) copper wire, the proper scale. The breech rope ID (0.1") is correct but the eye loop (0.06") is larger than it should be as this was the size I was comfortable with. Eye bolts were twisted over a 14 AWG copper wire (0.06" dia) ... I do not have a 1/16" drill bit to use for this. The breech ring was coiled over a 7/64th drill bit, multiple wraps and then cut with hobby snips to produce multiple coils at once. They were soft soldered 60/40 (% tin/lead) solder. The eye loops and rings were blackened with a permanent marker. I used Weldbond, water based PVA glue to assemble all the parts. It dries crystal clear. The quoin handle was made from a small diameter maple dowel, sanded down while mounted on the drill press and then pulled through a draw plate. All holes in the carriage were pilot holes and needed to be opened up for the twisted wire eye bolt stubs and quoin handle. Presently, I have all the breech rope rings (54 ea) made and soldered. Going to start on the (189 ea) eye bolts next.

Do you stack the spacers to get the variety of thickness in 0.25mm increments?

Good evening Bruce. I just watched the NRG video of your presentation last Saturday... Well Done! I am sorry I missed sitting in on it but I had an unexpected early morning appointment elsewhere that kept me away. Alan

I hate to say it... but sometimes a "do over" is the best answer. Remove the offending part and make a new one. Seems like a kick in the sensitive parts right now, but when your done you will be much happier and will be wondering why you hesitated... but we all do so you are not alone.

Would you consider using brass metallic paint?

It takes some practice but it is somewhat like tensioning a stringed instrument... you pluck it. see here: https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+tension+a+scroll+saw+blade&oq=how+to+tension+a+scroll+saw+blade&gs_lcrp=EgZjaHJvbWUyCQgAEEUYORiABDIICAEQABgWGB4yCAgCEAAYFhgeMggIAxAAGBYYHjIICAQQABgWGB4yCAgFEAAYFhgeMggIBhAAGBYYHjIICAcQABgWGB4yCAgIEAAYFhgeMggICRAAGBYYHtIBCjIwOTU0ajBqMTWoAgiwAgE&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#fpstate=ive&vld=cid:0917ef03,vid:gW-tO2Jx4Gc,st:50

Looking forward to seeing her at the MSON club meeting tomorrow!

http://www.uppercanadahistory.ca/1812/18125.html

If the wood tends to split try thinner pieces for a laminated assembly. make them a bit wider then you need because they might shift when glued but as they are oversized you can sand them to the proper width after the glue dries.

pulled up my chair. always amazed with these tiny models in bottles!

I use Fusion 360 - free hobbyist version to create my 3D models and it can generate 2D drawings from the 3D model. You need to make a few choices like sheet size, scale, views and then you can add dimensions and save the sheet as a PDF and print it out (letter size 8.5" x 11") or have large sheets printed out at a commercial print shop.

I see you've soaked it... how hot was the water (boiling?) Have you tried steam... 5 to 10 minutes is normally adequate for us. I use an old rice steamer to steam my wood... limits the length. I've also place some pieces directly in the boiling water of the steamer. I've read exotic and soft woods do not bend well, and that kiln dried wood cannot be steam bent as the ligin in the wood has been permanently set. Air dried wood below 10% moisture has limited bending capabilities when steamed for the same reason. Should allow a shallow curve which is normally plenty for us!

Yellow Ochre. Happy New Year!

This one is a mish-mash. On both sides the breech rope is well to the outside eyebolts where as the gun tackle is in on the right side and out on the left side. Also they eyebolt location of the breech rope and guntackle are switch as other sources suggest the breech rope secures to the lower eyebolts. Two securing eyebolts above the gun port.

In this image the eyebolts are both lower than the lower gun port cill

Below is an image reference to various methods of securing the guns. In all images only two eye bolts are shown to either side of the gun port, not three. Interestingly, both are quite high, adjacent to the actual gun port, none lower than the lower cill which some other references would suggest. In image "c" there is a single eyebolt above the port... but in the earlier photo I can see two eyebolts. It is all very confusing.

I'm not quite back yet. I had surgery; had been waiting sometime for a date and grabbed it when one was offered. Still recovering but feeling much better. Might be a few more weeks before I get in the shop. Hmmmm...might be a good time to paint my gun carriages!

I find cleaning the blades (soapy water and a scrub brush) regularly to remove dirt and sap usually resolves the issue. If not then the teeth likely need resharpening. Never experienced a misaligned blade.

Close? Possibly the adjacent gun used the extra ring at this station. Would that be far enough? I wonder if anyone on the forum knows?

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