US Brig Niagara by xken - FINISHED - Model Shipways - Scale 1/64

[xken]

Scott, the plans and instructions indicate the main rail, however I used the 3/32" square to get to the height needed and the main rail will be added on top of it as shown in the picture I provided.

 

Right now I am adding the 1/32" square strips both inside and outside of the gunports and sweep ports and on the inside I will run a 1/32" x 3/32" strip down both sides on top of the square strips to top them off and then I will be able to add the main rail.

 

Ken

[xken]

Here is a closeup of the fillers strips that will finish the plank ends. The cap strip will trim the tops and the main rail will rest on top. This shows the inner side. Placing these requires good eyesight, a steady hand and patience especially with the small ones on the sweep ports.

I sanded and then primed the strips prior to adding them. Then once the glue was set I trimmed the tops and bottoms to match the port openings or tops in the case of the gun ports strips. I then added the cap strip and very carefully sanded all to match.

Now I will move to the outside.

 

Ken

[scott larkins]

Got, thanks for that new pic.  Explains it much better.

[xken]

Here are the outside butt strips on the sides of the gun ports and sweep ports. These are sanded down to match the cap strip which will be painted black while the butt strips will be red. Also the second cap strip was added on the existing inside ones to complete the 1/16" thickness specified on the plans. Much easier to form at the bow with two 1/32" strips versus one 1/16" thick one.

This shows the strips in place and sanded to match. A stand off and a closeup.

 

I think I will mask and paint the black strip first and then mask it off and then spray the red. 

 

Ken

[xken]

The hull was primed for paint and then masked off first to paint the black plank at the top that the main rail will rest on. Once the black was dry I then masked off the black using 1/4" masking tape as seen below then added blue tape below the gunports for additional protection from painting and over spray.

 

 

This next picture shows the overall painted red most of which will be covered with planking so no need to mask off. 

 

Here is a close up showing a gunport butt strips with the transition to the black at the top. A painting trick I learned in the Marines when having to deal with two colors with masking tape was to first spray a light coat of clear; if the tape edge did not seal the bleed under would be clear. This would minimize the risk of color bled under the tape when spraying the next color on top.

 

 

Now to do a little cleanup and add the interior planking which will help in stiffing the bulkhead structure.

 

Ken

[xken]

Here is a quick test of the interior planking. I sanded, primed and re-sanded the 1/32" x 3/32" strips which are pretty rough especially the edges. Anyway I cut them to a little over the length needed and glued them together using CA on a polyethylene bondo spreader ( nothing sticks to polyethylene) and sanded the CA film off the front. Cut the sides to length to fit the area then transferred the sweep port location and cut out with a sharp Xacto blade and then painted with the Model Expo Dark Green. 

 

My next test with be with a wood glue to see it I get better results (less sanding). I think most of the interior panels can be done this way except the bow section which is compounded curves.

 

Ken

[GLakie]

Looks like a nice clean job Ken! Good idea. 

 

Cheers

[UpstateNY]

Hi Ken,

 

Very much enjoying watching your Niagara build coming to life.  She is looking really great.

 

Many thanks as well for the clear step by step updates showing your painting techniques. 

 

Cheers,

 

Nigel.

[scott larkins]

Turned out really nice.  Good job

[xken]

Tests are over and the CA wins. The wood glues were just not strong enough to withstand the cutting out of the square holes. I modified the CA technique by laying out the wood pieces and adding just drops of CA at each end of the panel; let set and removed from the polyethylene and then carefully added CA drops on the backside center just enough for a secure joints. 

 

Here are pictures of the results of one side gunports and sweeps completed and just pressed in place for now. The first photo shows  3 completed painted panels and primed ones being fitted and if you look close you can see the pencil tick marks for the hole locations.

Here are the ones completed on the starboard side. 

 

 

I am still sorting out how to do the bow and stern sections.

 

Ken

[gjdale]

Excellent work Ken. Your meticulous attention to detail, and your experimentation, are both paying off in spades.

[Guest Tim I.]

Ken,

 

I really like your approach on your Niagara. Watching your progress is wishing I could get back to working on mine sooner than later. 

 

You mentioned the issue with the squareness of the stock. I also had the same issue. I have not planked my internal bulwarks yet, your technique yields wonderful results. When I left off on my Niagara I was struggling with identifying what paint I wanted to use for my gun-stripe. Have you picked something out yet, if so what is it?

 

Thank you,

 

Tim

[xken]

Tim,

I am new to ship building and this is my first ship build, so I am not familiar with all the nautical terms yet. I looked over the plans and cannot find a reference to the gun-stripe. 

Perhaps if you could explain or post an image that would really help in my education.

Ken

[GLakie]

It's the stripe between the gun-ports that are painted, usually a brighter color like white or yellow ochre. 

[xken]

The Niagara plans just say yellow. I will see if I can find a picture of the real ship and import it. Then I can check in Photoshop for a match.

 

Ken 

[Laxet]

Here are a couple of pics showing the stripe up close.

[Laxet]

And another.

[Laxet]

You can see it varies a bit under different light, but you should be able to come close. It's not just yellow, though. I think the Model Expo yellow ochre is not a bad choice, there are a lot of people here who will disagree.

[xken]

Dale, 

Thanks for the pictures I will see what I can find.

Ken

[xken]

Today I worked on the transom; first I cut and stained the end of the decking. I then planked the section to the vertical wall and located the pilot hole for the tiller which will be enlarged when the tiller is installed. Next the area on the transom wall has two gun ports that would have some very small end pieces so I fell back on one of my airplane techniques and used a carrier piece of 1/64" plywood to glue the parts to and maintain position. The top and bottom frame parts are thicker than the planking which is 1/32" thick.

Here you can see the frame parts with the top and bottom gunport notches.

Here is a picture showing the planking being added to the carrier piece.

Here is the fitting of the wall part prior to painting; I also added the black corner pieces that are the inside of the fashion corners which will also be added to the outside later.

Here is the part in place painted as instructed with the red frame and green planking. The top frame will be trimmed down to fit the main rail later allowing the glue to set completely.

 

Next I will move forward to the inner bow wall planking which is a compound cured section. I will probably use the carrier technique on them as well.

Ken

[Guest Tim I.]

Ken,

 

I am amazed at the speed you are going. Your approach for the aft bulwarks looks crisp and clean.

 

- Tim

[GLakie]

Very nice Ken. Your methods here are achieving outstanding results.

[Canute]

Ken,

Excellent technique. I've done a few model RR structures that way, too. Your build is looking great.

[xken]

Here is a sequence showing the bow walls being built for those who may not be familiar with this technique.

I start with a piece of card stock(from Staples) then transfer the pattern to 1/64" birch plywood. Note plywood has a bias to bending in one direction orient the part for ease of desired direction of bending.

 

I then cleaned up and fine tune the fit of the plywood parts; the same pattern worked for both left and right sides, so the symmetry is very close. 

Then I cut the planks to length prior to fussing with the plywood fit and soaked the planking in water. I added the soaked planks while still very moist using CA; once the planks were in place and trimmed I then clamped them while still wet to the bow section.

When dry (the next morning) they were bone dry and held their position with no spring back.

The both were then painted and glued in place. Clamps were not needed only finger pressure until the CA set. Once the glue is completely set the bowsprit area will be trimmed to match.

 

Next I will move to the outside and add the planking around the gun ports.

 

Ken

 

 

 

[scott larkins]

Wow, you are cruising right along man.  Nice work.

[GuntherMT]

You can see it varies a bit under different light, but you should be able to come close. It's not just yellow, though. I think the Model Expo yellow ochre is not a bad choice, there are a lot of people here who will disagree.

 

The ME yellow ochre is not bad, but it's not the same yellow.  Here is a link to my build log showing what the ME yellow ochre looks like on my AVS - Click me!

 

Your build is moving quite rapidly, and you are doing great (in my opinion) Ken!

[xken]

Scott, Brian,

Thank you for your kind words. I am learning as I am going wood is not at all like working with brass so I am now broadening my skill sets. Working with these plans is kind of like being a detective; study the plans and look for the clues as to what to build next. Right now the rear transom wall with the gun ports is done. I am adding the two planks below the gun ports so sorting out the yellow will need to be resolved tomorrow or the day after, otherwise I may start planking the deck or hull.

 

Brian, that yellow ochre is almost a pumpkin color versus the yellow on the real brig. Thanks for sharing!

 

Ken

[Guest Tim I.]

Ken, 

 

Good technique for the bow. If you are not opposed, I would like to try that on my Niagara build.

 

Thank you,

 

Tim

[xken]

Tim,

Please by all means borrow it; knowledge and experience not shared is a true waste. 

 

Roughed in the transom wall and here are a few in progress and painted; keep in mind more parts are to be added like the chafing blocks at the bottom of the gunports.

 

Planks added.

 

Painted and test fit.

 

In place and showing the fashion frame.

 

Then I added the two 3/64" thick planks that define the lower edge of the gun stripe from bow to stern.

 

Next I will start on the gun stripe planking.

 

Ken

 

[GLakie]

Making some good progress Ken! I like your approach to the planking. 

 

Cheers