BENJAMIN W LATHAM by GaryKap - FINISHED - Model Shipways - scale 1:48

[GaryKap]

I decided to build BENJAMIN W. LATHAM for a couple of reasons.  I like the lines and the history of the New England fishing schooners.  I like the 1/4" = 1 ft scale.   I like that this kit has more hull and less rigging...and no cannons to rig .  And of course, I got the kit at a great price on an eBay auction. 

 

The center keel / bulwark former came in four pieces of 1/8' thick laser cut wood - two forward and two aft.  This sandwich construction resulted in a center keel less prone to warping and stronger than a single thickness of wood.  It also provides a nice center line when cutting the rabbet.  Further, when I attached the keel and stem to the center keel, I secured them with nine 1/8 inch wooden dowels spaced along the keel.  The center line helped me to center the drill holes for these. The first picture below shows the assembled center keel with supports for the mast steps, and the keel and stem attached. 

 

This kit also provides a very nice diagram of the locations of the planking belts along each of the bulkheads (shown in the second picture).  I decided to use this and marked the location of each of the belts in red on both sides of all bulkheads (picture 3).

 

I fitted the bulkheads to the center keel without gluing to make sure everything lined up.  I placed the frame on top of the plan to help verify that all bulkheads are properly aligned.  When I glue the bulkheads to the center keel, I will use blocks of hard pine with precise 90 degree corners to help make sure the bulkheads are in alignment. 

 

<<Gary>>

 

 

 

 

[KenW]

Hey Gary - Good luck on your new build. 

Cheers.

[GaryKap]

Hi Ken -

Thanks for dropping by.  Today I glued in the bulwarks and blocks of wood between them for reinforcement.  In addition to using my draftsman triangle, the kit has laser cut planksheer - waterway parts with slots for the bulwark stanchions that I could use to verify that the bulwarks were all properly aligned.  The planksheer is shown in picture 3 of my first post.  So far, everything is going together with no problems.  I will let the glue set overnight and start fairing the hull tomorrow.  I expect that process to take a few days.  Like you, I want to get it right.

 

<<Gary>>

Edited April 2, 2015 by GaryKap

[cg451]

Gary,

 

Glad to see a set of excellent images of the Benjamin W. Latham. I'm working on the MS kit as a starting point for conversion to a yacht, so I'll be adding more deck furniture consistent with people instead of fish in the holds. I will continue to follow your build with intense interest.

 

Bill

[dgbot]

Good for you Gary I was scratching the Latham but it was put on hold do to health problems.  You have started a nice kit.  And I think you will find the model very nice when finished.  Just follow the instruction book and that will help you out tremendously.  And you can add a lot of detail as well.  My advice is to get a copy of Chappelles American Fishing Schooners.  That book will be your bible.

David B

[GaryKap]

Hello cg451 and David.  Your advice on Chapelle's "American Fishing Schooners" is right on for this build.  I was able to get a copy used in great condition online.  The man's attention to detail is astounding.

 

The glue cured overnight and today I started fairing the hull.  Also, note the stand that I constructed to hold the hull upside down.  I took advantage of the holes for the mast steps and used dowels of the appropriate diameter that I secured into a piece of scrap wood.  This will provide me with a stable platform to use when planking the hull.  Obviously I am not done "fairing" yet but did want to provide a progress report.

 

<<Gary>> 

Edited April 3, 2015 by GaryKap

[dgbot]

Gary, Your second photo down showing the center keel and bulwarks looks off a little like the hull is warped.  Before you proceed any further my advice would be to double check your work to make sure it is perfectly straight.  If it is straight then I will have to get a new pair of glasses.

David B

[GaryKap]

David -

Thank you for your email and your concern.  I looked at photo #2 and I see what you mean.  But then I checked the center keel top and bottom with a steel ruler and found the hull to be perfectly straight ( I had done this many times in the last few days during construction.  I don't think you need a new pair of glasses - I think that the camera was not directly over the hull and the photo is an oblique rather than a perpendicular...its an optical illusion that we see in photo #2.  The other "proof of the pudding" is that the slots in the planksheer line up perfectly with the bulwark stanchions, which can only happen if the center keel is straight.

 

Elia - Thanks for the "like"...I like your build log for Arethusa; especially the pictures that show how the transom and horn timbers are mounted on the center keel.  Those pictures explain things much more clearly than the instructions. 

<<Gary>>

[GaryKap]

HELP!  HELP!!

I wanted to construct the 40 ft seine boat while still in early construction stages of B W Latham.  I dry - assembled the seven bulkhead formers onto the keel.  According to the directions, during actual assembly the next step (#4)  would be to construct stringers or gunwales from 1/16" square strips running from stem to stern and INSERTED INTO THE SIDE SLOTS ON THE BULKHEAD FORMERS.  Then I should cover each of the hull formers with a piece of the 1/32" X 1/16" basswood, making sure that each strip is locked into the former by placing it in the small notch at the baseboard edge of the former.  Then I should wrap it over the top so that it follows the contour of the former and end it in the notch on the other side.

 

As written, these instructions present two major concerns.  First, the strips covering the bulkhead formers would need to go over the keel.  At bulkhead formers A and G on the at the stem and stern, the bend angle is so acute that the covering strips would certainly break.  Second, step # 7 says to remove the hull from the formers by cutting away the tabs that hold the stringers.  Problem is that with the hull upside down, the entire shoulder of each side of the bulkhead formers would need to be removed.  Think about it. 

 

I honestly don't believe the boat can be constructed following these instructions.  If anyone sees it differently, your input would be greatly appreciated.

 

<<Gary>>

[dgbot]

Gary view the former as a modified plug.  Actual boats were built using this method.  When planking just bend the planks to fit and when finished they will hold their shape.

David B

Edited April 5, 2015 by dgbot

[KenW]

If you check out my Rattlesnake build you will see the ship's boat I made using the same method. The directions provided were clearer, however. But maynbe my photos will help you. At least I hope they do.

Cheers.

Edited April 6, 2015 by KenW

[GaryKap]

David and Ken - Thank you for your input, but this seine boat is NOT the same as the Model Shipways ship's boat.  Compare the pictures of my bulkheads with those shown in JSGerson's build log.  His bulkheads are flat on the (boat's)  bottom and do not have a notch.  The seine boat bulkheads all have a notch on the bottom that the keel fits into, as shown in my photos.  Now imagine that all of my bulkheads are glued down to a piece of wood.  The next step (#4) is to "insert a 1/16" square piece of basswood into the side slots on the bulkhead formers.  The stringer will run from stem to stern and will have to be tapered slightly where it attaches to the keel.  Glue it only to the stem and stern".  OK, so this secures the keel to the bulkheads.  Now the next step is to construct the ribs (step #5).  The directions say to "cover each of the hull formers with a piece of the 1/32" X 1/16" basswood.  Make sure that each strip is locked into the former by placing it in the small notch at the baseboard edge of the former".  Doing this, the ribs must be outboard of the keel.  And the ribs are also outboard of the 1/16" square gunwale that is now firmly locked into those notches on either side of the bulkheads.  This would produce a round bottom boat with no exterior keel and that does not look very much like the drawings on Sheet 4. 

 

But even if I was successful at planking this hull, the greater problem would come when I tried to remove the hull from the bulkhead "mold".  The hull is sitting upside down and to remove it, I would pull UP.  This would be stopped by that 1/16" square stringer or gunwale that is firmly wedged into the side notch of each bulkhead.  Now the directions (step # 7) say to "remove the hull from the formers by cutting away the TABS that hold the stringers.  This is a MAJOR flaw - the tabs aren't holding the stringers down - the shoulders of the formers or bulkheads are!!  Because the grain of the 1/8" thick bulkheads runs horizontal, it would be difficult to break them away without severely damaging the hull that I just constructed.  The stringer or gunwale should probably be constructed outboard of the ribs and glued in after the ribs are in place.

 

So that's the story.  I know this is a lot of verbage to wade through, but give it some thought.  My inclination at this point is to simply forget about including the seine boat as part of the model.  I am guessing that these design flaws are the reason that NOBODY seems to be building the seine boat as part of their Benjamin W. Latham kit assembly.  On the other hand, someone must have because the model on display at Model Expo has one:

http://imageshack.us/a/img16/6817/benjamin5.jpg

Then again, the model on display at Model Expo could well be an earlier version of the kit with a solid wood hull and a very different approach for constructing the seine boat.  Aargh!!!

 

<<Gary>>

Edited April 6, 2015 by GaryKap

[KenW]

Hey Gary.  I empathize with you.  Another solution is to get the Model Expo Ship's Boat that is the right size and use it. 

Jsgerson's log will help you with that. 

Or, since the construction method seems to be similar, (I don't understand all that verbiage), if you use the MSW Messenger to send me your email address, I will send you a copy of the ME directions which you might be able to use.

Just a thought.

Edited April 7, 2015 by KenW

[GaryKap]

Ken -

Thank you for your suggestion and your kind offer.  The seine boat was 40 feet long, or ten inches for the 1:48 model, and Model Expo does not offer a Ship's Boat of that size.  In addition, the seine boat was double ended.  I did give some thought to trying to modify my seine boat kit, but I'm not sure how well it would turn out.  The seine boat is intended to be displayed right side up and as if it was floating behind BW Latham as shown in this picture:

http://www.modelexpo-online.com/images/prod/p2633b.jpg

so I would want the boat's interior to look pretty good.  I need to give this some more thought.  Thanks again for your help.  I appreciate it.

 

<<Gary>>

[KenW]

Gary: The ME directions MAY prove helpful in your efforts to understand your kit's instructions. So, if you need, my offer still stands.

Cheers.

[jhearl]

I may be wrong, but I suspect that once you cut away the outboard tabs, you'll be able to pry the longitudinal stringer out of those slots without a lot of difficulty. The planking material is only 1/32" thick, so it will be pretty flexible. The ribs will add some stiffness too, but not so much that it's like you're trying to bend a thick piece of hard wood. Just for grins, temporarily clamp a stringer to the keel, seated in the slots, and see if it isn't pretty easy to move outward. It only has to go 1/16".

 

Also, be aware that the instructions call for putting the ribs entirely over top of the keel piece. In other words, each rib goes from the slot on one side to the slot on the other in one continuous piece. Which means the top of the keel needs to be flush with the top of the formers. (It's really the bottom of each, but from the way they're oriented in the photos, I'm thinking of those surfaces as the "top.") Also, I suspect you'll want to fair the formers before you add the ribs just as you would the hull of the ship itself. I haven't seen the plans myself, but perhaps there's a false keel/stem added after the boat is planked?

 

Cheers -

John

[dgbot]

One thing that may help is to coat the former with wax or a poly so that glue does not stick to it.

David B

[GaryKap]

Ken, John and David -

Thank you for your suggestions.  I need to mull this over.  Whether or not I build and include the seine boat will determine the size and type of mounting board.  So I can wait a bit after the LATHAM hull is planked and painted.  I am considering modifying the seine boat instructions and construction to have the ribs inboard of the keel, and to have the bulkheads at the bow and stern be attached to the keel and not function as "formers".  That would be consistent with the plan for the seine boat (see picture below).

 

<<Gary>>

 

 

[GaryKap]

Progress report:  I spent the day working on the Planksheer / waterway.  The foredeck planksheer is nearly completed as I write.  This task was more time consuming and delicate than fairing the hull.  And the other build logs that complain about those delicate stanchions that break off easily are exactly correct.  The stanchions need to be slimmed down and carved to shape to sit the slots in the planksheer.  The emery boards from the dollar store were the most useful tool for doing this.  I still have the quarter deck planksheers to fit.  Nothing worth a photo at this stage...

 

<<Gary>>

[Elia]

Gary,

 

I've been following along, watching your build and have been somewhat perplexed by the directions for the seine boat. With the apparent amount of keel depth protruding beyond the formers I find it difficult to imagine wrapping a 'frame' strip all the way over the former, from one side to another without a kink in the 'frame' strip occuring. If the keel were sanded down to the level of the formers then I might see that working....but then the notch in the keel at each former would apparently be very thin.

 

I went to look at the build log of a former DDM and MSW 1.0 member, Jim Lefever, over at shipmodeling.net, where he has both a build log of his Benjamin Latham and his seine boat (in which he apparently didn't follow the MS directions). Here is a link to his seine boat log. It might give you some ideas on how you approach its build.

 

http://shipmodeling.net/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=984&ppuser=2811

 

Cheers,

 

Elia

[GaryKap]

Hello Elia -

Thanks for your comments and the link to Jim LeFever's seine boat build pictures.  In essence, he used just the plans to scratch build the seine boat...and that is a REAL possibility.  He certainly shows that it CAN be done...and beautifully!.   I do have the option of raising the keel up (hull upside down) and running the 1/16 X 1/32 ribs under it.  The 1/16" wide ribs are sitting on 1/8" thick bulkheads, though, and it would only take one instance of gluing the planks to the ribs where the glue slopped over and glued the rib to the bulkhead.  And that would be the end of that model.  High probability and difficult to avoid.    But I'm glad you agree that the seine boat kit and directions are not well thought out. 

 

<<Gary>>

Edited April 10, 2015 by GaryKap

[ak0309]

I am planking the kit-build Ben. Latham and can't figure out how the transom all comes together.   A few weeks ago I saw a post on this subject, but now I can't find it again.   Anyone have any helpful comments or pictures?

[ak0309]

I am planking the kit-build Ben. Latham and can't figure out how the transom all comes together.   A few weeks ago I saw a post on this subject, but now I can't find it again.   Anyone have any helpful comments or pictures?

[GaryKap]

Hello ak0309 -  Sorry but I am unable to provide any help at this time.  I am not as far along in my build as you apparently are.  But the transom certainly is tricky.

 

<<Gary>>

[dgbot]

I scratch built it and remember the transom was difficult I might be able to help you.  What are you having trouble with.  

David B

[GaryKap]

AK0309 - A very good build log that might be of help to you is Arethusa by Elia - 1907 Knockabout Banks Fishing Schooner
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/409-arethusa-by-elia-1907-knockabout-banks-fishing-schooner/

especially the photos at the bottom of page one and on page three.  She's a scatch build but very similar to Ben Latham.

 

Perhaps it would be better to post your question in the "Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck" forum and include a photo of your build to clarify what you are asking.  More people would see it and you would have a better chance of getting the answer you are looking for.

 

David, your offer to help is always appreciated.  I might be asking some questions when I get further along.

 

<<Gary>>

Edited April 27, 2015 by GaryKap

[frenchguy]

Hi, I am building also the Benjamin Latham and I could not figure the  transom part either. I suspect there is  a problem in the laser cutout keel and the transom piece. I redid it three times and I am still not happy with the results.

As someone else mentioned, check Elia's blog and pictures.

[Elia]

I essentially followed the Ben Latham plans, though as a scratch build I had improvise a little. The steps I took were:

 

1. Using two views (side elevation and plan view) of the transom develop both a true edge view and a true projected view. The true edge view is essentially a view taken as if your eye is in the buttock line 0 plane (i.e. The ship's fore-aft vertical center plane), above and aft of the transome. The transom has a very gentle curve of bow to it. The Ben Latham plans already include these on sheet 1 of 2 of the plank on bulkhead plans - far left side, mid top-to-bottom of the sheet. The curve of the transom bow is shown as a single curve. Below it is the true projected view of the transom plug.

 

2. I made a simple shaped jig which followed the arc of the transom.

 

3. I wet soaked two sheets of (I think) 1/16" thick stock and rubber band clamped them to the jig.

 

4. Once dry I glued the two pieces together, also clamped onto the jig. I took care to mark the buttock line 0 marks on the upper and lower edges of the blanks.

 

5. Once that dried I transfered the true projected view to the transom and cut it out of the laminated blank. I think I only cut around its periphery. My memory is a little foggy on this step. I may have done a little pre-beveling....I don't recall.

 

6. I then had an 'almost finished' transom core (meaning I made it thin enough that I could apply exterior and interior planking once it was sanded to shape).

 

7. I then could glue this onto the keel. At this pount the aftmost surface edges stand proud of the loft and need to be faired in along with the frames (bulkheads) just forward of it.

 

8. Once it was sanded and faired it takes a rather odd look - the bevels along the sides and bottom are extremely long due the fact that the transom sits 'almost' (but not quite) with the counter and horn timber. Using a batten or plank you should see the strip lay fair to the bulkheads forward of the transom and lay across those very shallow beveled edges of the transom.

 

I hope this wasn't too much, nor too difficult to follow, and hopefully helpful.

 

Cheers,

 

Elia

Edited May 2, 2015 by Elia

[dgbot]

I did what you did but built it up and sanded to the angle and shape that as needed.  Once I was fully satisfied I proceeded to plank it.  The transom is a pain but an integral part of the model.

David B 

[GaryKap]

Progress Update and Discussion:

I have not posted for a while, mainly because of problems and frustration with the transom assembly on this vessel.  I thought I had the transom installed EXACTLY as per the instructions.  The position was correct and the angle of the transom relative to the bulkhead former was precisely the same as the template provided (Fig. 11, p.13).  It all seemed to be good.  Planking the hull went smoothly - no severe bends needed for the strakes like with FAIR AMERICAN.  However, when I started planking the bulwarks, I realized that the bulwarks met the transom at a much steeper angle than shown in the plans...and nothing like the Ben Latham would be.  I also discovered that Bulkhead K was off center; something I failed to spot earlier.  I was too far along to rip everything out and start over, so I decided to move forward and see if I could fix it.   Well, as we say here in Virginia, it was kinda like watching sausage being made - not pretty - but I did it to my satisfaction.  I have progressed to the point where I know there will be a finished ship model at the end.  I can no longer claim to be modeling the BENJAMIN W. LATHAM though, and because I have given up on the seine boat, I am no longer modeling a mackeral seiner.  So I guess this will simply be a representative Grand Banks Fishing Schooner.  And that's OK.  I can now borrow ideas from Elia's Arethusa build log as needed. Also, I can add that white stripe at the water line that I really like. Here are some photos to show you my progress to date-

<<Gary>>