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SS Edmund Fitzgerald by BenF89 - Iron Shipwrights - 1:350 scale - PLASTIC - with Photo Etch Details


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I purchased plans of the Edmund Fitzgerald, in 1/192 scale, a few weeks ago.

 

I am planning on using them to build the Edmund Fitzgerald, out of card, in 1/192 scale.  I need to finish Victory first (to ensure that the Victory does not get shelved and left in half finished limbo).

Edited by GrandpaPhil

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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On 1/14/2020 at 4:57 PM, wadayadoin said:

This is my first experience with resin cast models and will be the last. I got burned this one time and never again. 

 

It would be unfortunate if you gave up on resin models entirely.  I have built a few (never a ship).  My first couple of experiences with resin did not go well.  I actually hated resin models after those first couple of models.  However, I ended up with a bunch, in a lot of models, that I won in an auction, and learned how to work with them, and ended up really liking resin models.
 

There is usually a lot more flash and the gate usually has to be removed (and for a larger piece, can be the size of the piece, because that is where the resin is poured in and not injected, unlike plastic models).  That just has to be cut away (I use a scalpel for this).
 

I have also seen a lot of warping in the pieces.  To remove the warping, one must heat the model, preferably in hot water.  I use the microwave method for tanks and figures.  For something the size of a hull, I would put it in a bathtub with the hottest water that you can and let it heat for a bit.  After the resin warms up it becomes very flexible and you can shape it how you need it.

 

My personal last example involved the track piece of a resin R35 tankette (French, 1940).  I microwaved it in a cup of water for about 30 seconds to heat it up.  Then I straightened the track so it would fit on the hull and look right.  It worked beautifully.

 

C3E676BF-70C0-48DF-9147-20A1BEFB156B.thumb.jpeg.42e306f3a241b7c39d822e3bc0fa242b.jpeg

 

I have not seen the Model Shipwrights Edmund Fitzgerald.  However, I hope this helps.  There is usually more work involved in resin vs plastic, but resin models, in my opinion, hold more detail and usually look good once built.

Building: 1:64 HMS Revenge (Victory Models plans)

1:64 Cat Esther (17th Century Dutch Merchant Ships)
 

On the building slip: 1:72 French Ironclad Magenta (original shipyard plans)

 

On hold: 1:98 Mantua HMS Victory (kit bash), 1:96 Shipyard HMS Mercury

 

Favorite finished builds:  1:60 Sampang Good Fortune (Amati plans), 1:200 Orel Ironclad Solferino, 1:72 Schooner Hannah (Hahn plans), 1:72 Privateer Prince de Neufchatel (Chapelle plans), Model Shipways Sultana, Heller La Reale, Encore USS Olympia

 

Goal: Become better than I was yesterday

 

"The hardest part is deciding to try." - me

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 I agree with Grampa Phil above. You have a large model so some creativity is involved but heat up the hull in really hot water for some considerable time not less than 5 minutes or so. Have a piece of really flat, strong material and lots and lots of clamps and rubber bands ready. If possible clamp the hull to the flat surface first, then immerse. Another tip for the small parts. Put a small amount of superglue into the hole or on an edge of a part that has been broken off, right away tip on some baking powder. The mix will set up rapidly and become really hard- harder than the surrounding resin. Then sand to finish. For a larger area or to raise a damaged edge just repeat the process adding layer upon layer. It technique works really well and is structurally sound.

   Have fun!!! looking forward to seeing the completed ship!

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  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I just came across this build.  I built a 1/16th scale Fitz from a discontinued Carr's Hobby kit. Purchase 2 of them off eBay and only built one so far.  The kit was a bit primitive but I added my own touches to it.

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On 4/8/2020 at 4:31 PM, greenwilliam6752@yahoo.com said:

ws never found 

https://historycollection.co/23-photographs-cataloging-wreck-edmund-fitzgerald-dives-rediscover-wreckage/2/

 

Lou

 

Build logs: Colonial sloop Providence 1/48th scale kit bashed from AL Independence

Currant builds:

Constructo Brigantine Sentinel (Union) (On hold)

Minicraft 1/350 Titanic (For the Admiral)

1/350 Heavy Cruiser USS Houston (Resin)

Currant research/scratchbuild:

Schooner USS Lanikai/Hermes

Non ship build log:

1/35th UH-1H Huey

 

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  • 2 months later...

Sorry Guys I just got back to this post. As I understand it, Mr Carr kept some of his collection, but most of it was auctioned off this past winter and spring in Duluth. The auction included alot of the collectibles and antiques from the store as well as his remaining stock of models. I will always treasure the time I spent wandering through his store over a period of about 50 years.

 

Carr's Hobby was down on Superior Street in Duluth and was not associated with the Hobbytown USA up in Hermantown. The store is now owned by a different party and they have a gift shop there.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • The title was changed to SS Edmund Fitzgerald by BenF89 - Iron Shipwrights - 1:350 scale - PLASTIC - with Photo Etch Details

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