USN Picket Boat #1 by jct - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1/24 scale

[jct]

Hello again, time for a small update...prepared the mast holders by drilling and installing pins, corresponding holes will be drilled in the bulkhead and ca will do the holding, also prepared and painted the rudder.

 

The hull received its final coat of primer...3 total, sanding between each, then the top coats were applied with a good quality brush, again 3 sanding between, when dry all was shot with a 2 coats of Tamiya clear.

 

Since there is no historical record of how the Picket was painted I decided to change mine up a bit by pulling the gray down to the lower rub rail, it's different but I like it.  That's it for now, moving on the building the steam plant next...but there are other home projects to catch up on first.

Thanks for looking in

[jct]

Hello all,

Work has started on the steam engine...the cylinder pieces were built up first, I found the center of the top cap and drilled a small hole to help with the alignment, carpenters glue was used on these parts.

 

The appropriate size and length aluminum tube was cut by rolling a sharp blade back and forth rolling the tube. Careful here cause they will go flying once they separate from the main tube!! I cut some tubing for alignment jigs as well.

 

Next the steam valve rods and linkages were constructed...there are two different diameter eccentrics, the goal is to capture the rod between them , the alignment parts were very helpful here.

 

Most of the parts are going to be painted a gray/green, this is a Tamiya color, I also plan to leave some of the brass unpainted to enhance the look. So as each sub-assembly is completed it is painted accordingly.

 

The crankshaft assembly was completed according to the plans and then the cylinder stanchions were completed...the plastic hex rods supplied enhance the appearance of these (and other) parts small pieces of this were glued on using ca and tehn the height filed to make them equal.

 

All these parts are being dry fitted for proper alignment and fit as the build up continues. Once all the sub-assembly’s are painted I plan to weather them lightly using a dark wash to accent the recessed areas and then dry brushing, a technique all you old armor builders are probably familiar with. That's all for now, hope to do more next week

 

As always thanks for your time and attention...pics follow:

[jct]

more pics

[Guest Tim I.]

Jct,

 

Nice work so far! The steam engine was one of the more enjoyable parts of the model for me. I like your use of styrene to cover some of the basswood. A great idea!

 

- Tim

[rafine]

Nicely done J. One of the pleasures of this kit was how well the engine parts were designed.

 

Bob

[Dimitris71]

Hello J , you are doing a super job to your picket boat. Regarding the paints  I use Vallejo model air for the airbrush ,and Vallejo model color for brushes. I will follow with interest!!

 

Kind Regards

Dimitris

[jct]

Thanks to you all for your comment and all the likes

Tim...I'm hoping it will take the weathering I have in mind a bit better then the wood alone would

 

I agree Bob, this little engine is what attracted me to the kit, and it does go together quite nicely

 

Welcome Dimitris, beautiful pic in your avatar

 

I know exactly what you mean Joshua, the only way I can remember is to keep the camera sitting right beside me on the bench ( actually the Admiral's dining table, getting to cold in the basement)

[jct]

A small update and a question for all you other Picket builders...first the question, how did you manage to rivet the the Stephenson linkage?  They have proven to be a real pita for me!  All attempts have ended with bent mangled pins no matter how short I make them and the linkage parts are taking a beating, I could always just glue them up but I really want the engine to turn...any and all assistance is appreciated.

 

With the linkage set aside I decided to glue up the boiler parts pretty much just followed the plans...for the steam dome I made sure each plank was about 3/4 in over long, once the glue holding them to the frame had set, I coated the inside of the extended parts with carpenters glue to ensure they would not snap off for the next step.

 

Once all was dry a piece of 120 grit was held on a flat surface and the square ends of the main boiler and steam dome were squared up.  The profile on the steam dome was created by holding the 120 firmly against the main boiler and running the extended planks back and forth being careful to keep the dome square to the main body, only took a few minutes and fits very nicely.

 

As always thanks for your time and attention, Pics follow:

[Canute]

J, lay your rivet with the head down on a hard surface. Put the Stephenson links over them in appropriate order. Take a thin nail/brad and put the point into the open end of the rivet, if so configured. Tap the nail head gently to flare the river out.

If it's a solid rivet, take a finishing nail and put the dimple on the head over the end of the rivet and tap the pointy end of that nail.

 

The rivet has to be flared to hold the rods together and work. Go very slowly; tap and check your progress. Too hard and the rivet flares too much and you end up drilling it out and starting over. This is how I've built a few steam engine kits, although those rivets were open for doing the first method. My Picket Boat kit is stored away and not quickly accessed to check the rivets. This should allow you to make working valve gear.

[jct]

Thanks for the input Ken... MS supply's very thin brass brads for this purpose, I cannot seem to get them to mushroom, all they do is bend, wonder if I can source a true rivet small enough...?

[src]

J,

How is it missed this?? Pulling up a chair. Nice save on the bulkhead. That engine looks to be really fiddly. Looking forward to seeing it complete.

Sam

[jct]

Hey Sam...good to have you aboard...welcome

[Canute]

J, start checking model railroad shops. Some may have these rivets. One brand I've used is Bowser, up in Montoursville, PA. They may still be carrying these rivets. Or their commercial outlet, Toy Train Heaven. Precision Scale is another brand; they're up in Idaho/Montana.

here's one link: http://www.toytrainheaven.com/.sc/ms/sch/ee/2?search=valve+gear&go.x=27&go.y=10

[GuntherMT]

Scale hardware has miniature brass rivets down to a ridiculously small size of 0.3mm shaft and 0.4mm head - http://www.scalehardware.com/miniature-rivets-c-10

[GuntherMT]

Brian, I could see me getting crazy with that scale hardware if I were building something like a WWII warship!  ORRRRRR.. the scratchbuild I have in mind of the BB16, New Jersey someday!

 

If you look at Dirk's builds, he uses the little rivets all over the place on what we build.  I've started to use them myself, but just barely.  I used them on my bowsprit foot strap, and the gannon strap on the AVS.

[popeye the sailor]

my.......what a cool looking boat your building!  catching up on the logs I view.........I hardly get to meander anymore {I have so many that I look at}.   the veneer and the gray is a nice combo.......did you score all of the bunker doors {like the idea of the coal}     very nice progress J..........so glad to have you on my watch list again! 

[jct]

Thanks Ken and Brian...I'll take a look thanks for the links...Joshua let me know when you start that Jersey build I want a from row seat for that one...Hey Pop, welcome, glad to have you on board...the kit parts are laser etched but I did have to score them because of all the paint build up

[jct]

Hi,

An update on the steam engine...after many failed attempts and bent pins, tacks and brass rod, I've given up on a working valve linkage, the little parts were really starting to take a beating.  Making rivets is a skill I'll have to develop on a latter build, thanks to all for the advice.  What I have accomplished was to get all the parts washed and dry-brushed and most of the engine assembled .

 

That process started by making a thin wash of dark dry...I like to make this using a mix of 1 part paint 1 part water and 1 part acrylic airbrush medium.  This mix is applied to all the recesses using a small brush, others may choose to flood the wash over the entire surface and wipe off the excess but I've never had any luck with that technique with acrylics...always just make a mess for me.

 

Once this wash drys the dry brushing can begin...for those that have never done this I suggest practicing on some scrap material to develop the correct touch.  I start with the base color and then add more and more white to build up successive "layers" of highlight, you must use a lighter and lighter touch as the highlight begins to pop.

 

This technique was used on all of the engine parts prior to final assembly.  I've still some touch up to do on the rod assemblies and engine still need plumbed.  Thanks for your time and attention, pics follow:

[src]

Very nice! Never quite got the hang of dry brushing myself, well done.

Sam

[rafine]

Really nicely done.

 

Bob

[GuntherMT]

Looks great.  I also have never done dry-brushing, but it's clearly something I need to learn and add to my skillset!

[Dimitris71]

Very nice J!!   Thank you for explaining the procedure about the painting.

 

Kind regards

Dimitris

[jct]

Thanks to all for the likes and kind comments, no updates today many choirs to get caught up on while the good weather here holds

[jct]

Hello all,

 Some progress to report...I decided I was gonna work on more of the boiler parts, mainly the stack, so I sanded it done and put on three coats of acrylic clear to seal the grain.  Started to drill it out and guess I got a little aggressive and cracked the dowel... awww crap!

 

  So I glued and clamped it and set it aside for a day, the glue set real well so... with a smaller & sharper bit I started again...coring down and around simultaneously...and proceeded to drill right out the side of the stack....at this point the air was blue, but I had too much time in this piece to chunk it and start over...out came the green stuff, taped the inside of the blowout and applied a liberal amount,  set it aside to dry.

 

  After letting it set for a couple days I broke out the sand paper and worked it down from 80 thru 220, sealed it and layed on coats of flat black...Pics follow

[Canute]

Nice save, J.

[src]

Yes, nice save.

Green Stuff? I used that in my younger days, it was a laquer based spot putty, same stuff?

Sam

[jct]

Thanks guys,  yes Sam its the same stuff, works as good on wood as it does on plastic

[jct]

THX Josh, but I think yours turned out very well...and you didn't break it twice

[src]

...and you didn't break it twice

 

J, you can come to work with me if you want. We have a saying, "We do it better 'cause we do it twice."

Sam

[jct]

...hahaha  I like it Sam