HMB Endeavour by ca.shipwright - Corel - 1:60

[ca.shipwright]

Greetings,

This is my first build log and my third wooden ship model  The Armed Virginia Sloop and Benjamin W. Latham being the first two. I choose HMB Endeavour as a build because I was lucky enough to visit the replica when it stopped in Oxnard, California, several years ago. I was very impressed and put this kit on the list for a future build.

 

To begin, the usual kit inventory was conducted, and, it appeared that all material was present. I was especially impressed with the Corel draughts, They were printed on very heavy weight stock and nice and clear. Especially helpful were the isometric assembly drawings. The smaller assemblies were printed in over scale rather than 1:1 for clarity.

 

The directions are a challenge. It's read and read again. When I finally got the syntax used in the instructions, things became much clearer. They reference the drawing numbers as well as part numbers for each assembly step which is a huge help.

 

The center keel and bulkheads are a soft plywood, the sub-decks are a walnut plywood which actually fir over the bulkhead extensions with minimum adjustment- a pleasant surprise. I'm not sure I like the bow filler treatment Corel Uses. It still leaves a considerable void.  I would prefer the solid carved block and I may go this route instead. I'm still trying to decide how I will do the rabbet. There is no mention on this in Corel's instructions. From the plans , it looks like the sides and the bottom of the keel is boxed below the bottom of the bulkheads producing a rabbet of sorts.

 

Any ideas  with the rabbet would be greatly appreciated.

 

 

Dry fitted all of the hull parts and now it's on to the glue up

 

Pictures will follow.

[ca.shipwright]

On another note. I need to enlarge the AOS drawings to 1:60 from 1:96, 1:48 and 1:72. My math has deserted me I need the enlargement ratios. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Cabbie]

G'day Michael and welcome to the Endeavour club.

 

I started one as well a couple of months ago, but haven't got too far yet

I have been looking and thinking, and thinking and looking at lots of pics

and models and existing logs working out my own ideas.

 

It looks like it should be a fun build.

Here is a link to a Flickr page with lots of photos

 

https://www.flickr.com/search/?tags=endeavourreplica

 

A lot of the pics are links to more albums.

 

I am only a new builder with lots to learn, but i have nearly finished  fairing my bow using solid blocking,

and I am finding it easier to visualize the correct shape.

 

I cut a rabbet in the plywood and have formed one in the solid blocking on the bow.

I will update my blog soon to show a little bit of progress.

In the meantime, enjoy!!!!!!   Hooroo Chris

[BANYAN]

Welcome to the Endeavour builders club Cabbie and c.a.  Plenty of useful info in the many Endeavour logs. 

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

Welcome ca.shipwright to the Endeavour builder's club.

You will find many logs of the Endeavour on this site.

 

I am well into the HMB Endeavour Corel Kit 1:60 - well the hull at least.

My log is in this forum, have a look if you like, I have posted a lot of pictures and steps, as have others.

 

I was not too impressed with the instructions or the metal parts in the Corel Kit. Basically tossed them and using Karl Marquardt's "Anatomy Of The Ship " and crafting the wooden parts from scratch.

 

Happy to chat how your build goes along the way.

 

 

Dave R

[ca.shipwright]

Greetings to all,

I can see that Endeavour holds special esteem for you folks Down Under. No wonder, she had a remarkable voyage. Glad to see someone else opting to use solid bow filler blocks. I  am going to use boxwood and cherry to make as much of the deck furniture that I can. These hardwoods hold a much sharper edge for cutting and carving than the kit soft woods.

 

Now, it's off to final dry fit and glue up of the hull frame.

 

Regards

 

Michael

[RGL]

Welcome to the club, there are heaps of builds here!

[maggsl_01]

Hello Michael,

 

I also say just Welcome to the Club. I will come by time after time and have a look. I build the Occre Version of the Endeavour. They use balsawood blocks to fill the bow. I found this cery usefull.

 

Cheerio

 

Max

[bmudry]

I will be following with interest Michael as I just got the Corel Endeavour in as well and am starting on it soon.  Nice looking materials and great plans, but wow are the "instructions" horrible.

 

Looking forward to seeing some build pictures when you get a chance.

[riksgewijs]

I will follow you to, hope for pictures soon.  And i love this ship.

[donrobinson]

I just ordered the Joitka/Caldercraft one yesterday from my good friend Rick Shousha at "Modeller's Workshop", it will be interesting watching your build. Looking forward to seeing more.

Edited October 10, 2015 by donrobinson

[ca.shipwright]

Hi everyone,

 

For changing the scale of plans it is:

 

What you want divided by what you have   i.e.  1/60 / 1:48  = 1/60  X  48/1  =  48/60  = 0.8  or 80%, which is the machine enlarging setting.

 

Remember our 6th grade math: when dividing fractions invert the denominator and multiply by the numerator.

 

Works for 1/72  =120%

                 1/96 - 160%

 

Thank you FedEx Office

 

Regards

[ca.shipwright]

10/12/15

 

Now that the house guests have departed, it was time to get back in the shipyard.

 

The hull has been completed. The bulkheads are glued in, the bow filler blocks carved and mounted, (came out quite good), the sub-decks have been glued down, the stern frame is in, and the bulkheads have been beveled for curve. Just a little touch up sanding and we'll be ready for planking.

 

I have taken some pictures. They have come out ok. I hope I can get then into the post which follows.

Edited October 12, 2015 by ca.shipwright

[ca.shipwright]

Photos

[ca.shipwright]

More Pictures

[ca.shipwright]

Notes on the pictures (captions that didn't transfer over with pictures).

 

Bow blocks need a little filler at the bottom. The block of wood for carving the filler blocks  was a tad short. But the came out well. You really need to keep visualize the bow curve when you carve them. The solid block is a better foundation the  Corel  parts.

 

Very happy with the symmetry and sheer of the hull

 

Stern view has a slight list to port. This will be corrected when we build out the covering.

[Cabbie]

Hi Michael, It is looking very good, This kit certainly has a different approach to

the initial setup, compared to the AL kit that I am doing. It will be interesting to see how the

two compare in the later stages. Chris

[ca.shipwright]

Chris,

I looked at your build and the one thing that stands out in difference is that your kit has only 10 bulkhead formers. Mine has 13. I don't think it makes much of a difference, Although you may have more of a challenge keeping the planking  dips from between the bulkheads.

 

Robust is an understatement for you building board.

 

Michael

[donrobinson]

You have a good start Michael

[Cabbie]

Hello again Michael

I was thinking more about your false keel, which seems to extend out a lot more under

the bulkheads and the little pieces that rise up above the deck. Also the stem post seems to be part of the

false keel as well. Hooroo Chris

[ca.shipwright]

Hi Chris,

The center keel does extend 5mm below what the rabbet line would normally be. There is no separate keel to be applied to the center keel. This 5mm will be covered with 2nd planking mahogany on the exposed sides and bottom. The rabbet is actually simulated in this treatment.

[ca.shipwright]

Had to rip out the first 4 planks today. It seems that I looked at my completed hull framing from every direction except from the top. If I had, I would have seen that my bow filler blocks had chubby cheeks- a slight forward bulge that extended about 3 mm beyond a vertical dropped from the edge of the forward sub-deck. A little more carving and sanding by hand took care of this problem.

 

ATTENTION Corel Endeavour builders:

 

I will try to explain some of the more difficult/vague/incorrect instructions that I see in the Corel published instructions. I hope I can prevent some heartburn for you builders.

 

Pay particular attention to the placement of the 1st plank attached (26a) What the directions mean is the BOTTOM EDGE of the first plank aligns to the TOP EDGE of the false bridges (16). This should also give the plank a nice following of the deck sheer.

 

Using CA glue for planking. Now my fingers are CA covered. I will  wait for the end of planking before I clean them up.

[DaveRow]

Hi Michael,

Great progress, going well.

 

 

One thing that I really regret in the early stages was NOT paying attention to the exact alignment of the frames, to make sure each was 90 deg to the keel, not twisted. e.g. some of mine were just a wee bit out(twisted) makes a difference to the hull shape, and later I noticed this when taking dimensions of them.

If I were doing another hull, at the stage you are at, I'd place "blocks" between each frame equal to the distance at the keel.

I did a quick sketch to show this. Picture better than words sometimes.

They would also stiffen up the hull.

 

The transom on my Corel Endeavour was out 1mm out as well. I didn't notice it till well into the planking. Not very noticeable, but peeved I did not pick it up earlier.

 

Hope the planking goes well.

 

Dave R

[ca.shipwright]

Hi everyone,

Here is an update on my Endeavour. First Corel has it wrong as to the placement of the Canons. They actually have them mounted behind what appear to be the light ports which by the way are far from the correct placement according to AOS. The replica has them on the main deck.  So those "false bridges" are really not needed other than to set the first plank and get a good sheer line. Also omitted are the air ports.

 

The stern is somewhat confusing in that there are few reference points for the wales which usually mark the end of the upper transom.

 

Now for the biggie. I'm looking at the rudder and the rudder post assembly. Ahem, where is the rudder post? I thought it was part of the center keel. But this then would not allow for the planks to go into the rabbet. The rudder is 4mm thick and the center keel is 5 mm thick. The rudder post would have to be 5 mm  + 1.5 mm x2 (for first planking) and 0.5 mm x2 (for second planking) for a total 9 mm. This would have to taper to the 4 mm of the rudder thickness.

And, if that is enough, don't forget the rudder has to somehow go through the upper transom to the quarter deck for the steering assembly.

 

Any thoughts, please jump right in.

 

Enough thinking. My brain has been fried.

 

I have also finished planking the upper half of both sides of the hull Tapering the planks at the bow is giving a pretty good run.

 

Pictures to follow in the morning.

 

 

Regards

Michael

Edited October 24, 2015 by ca.shipwright

[ca.shipwright]

Couldn't stop thinking about the rudder post. I may have over thought it. One could always taper the aft end of the center keel to a thickness of 2 mm in front of the rudder post. Hmmmmmmmmmmm.

[Cabbie]

Hi Micheal I think that is right about reducing the keel thickness. I haven't got to mine yet, so have not looked into it closely.

But I did see somewhere. don't know where now, a discussion about the rudder posts not being the correct thickness in models,

and that they can be tapered sometimes.

Chris

[ca.shipwright]

Dave, the filler between bulk heads is a great idea. How do you prevent the forward bh from pushing the rear bh back?

 

Here come the photos I promised.

 

Some comments on the photos.

 

#1 Shows the placement of the light ports according to AOS.

#2 Shows that the hull is reasonably shaped and symmetrical.

#3 Shows the bow planking and the tapering of the planks. Corel says to use dropped planks. I think I can do it without them.

#4 Shows that the planking is fairly even up to this point.

#5 Shows the stern planking on the counter

#6 Shows the forward light port

#7 Is a top view showing the line of the bow fillers falls from the deck level

#8 is the broadside which shows a satisfactory sheer all long the ship

 

 

Please jump right in with comments or suggestions.

 

You can see some wood filler to help with some of the mistakes. I sand the planks every 2-3 levels. I find it gives a better result.

 

Now on to the lower hull.

 

Regards to all

Michael

[DaveRow]

Hi Michael,

The filler blocks. front or back run them all the way to the keel, so it is tight and square to start from. Too late now.

 

I am leaving my keel 4mm thick, paint it brown probably, then it is same thickness as the rudder. The rudder, I tapered it slightly to the rear.

Pics in my log if you want to see. June this year.

 

I cut all the light ports out after the second plank layer. The thought being the planks lay truer when drying, cut out later.

 

The Corel plans are full of mistakes. I completely remade the stern, threw the metal window thing and their design to the wind.

Have you got yourself Karl Marquardt's "Anatomy of the Ship", a lot of the guys building the Endeavour use this as a definitive source of what the ship was most likely like. Up to you though.

 

 

Dave R

[ca.shipwright]

Hi Dave,

Yes, I am using the AOS book as my source material. I am going to plank up to the ports on the second planking. I have never been able to get a satisfactory margin by cutting them out after planking over them. I am going to post to your log and see if I can bring it forward on the list.

 

Thanks

[ca.shipwright]

Dave,

I can't seem to find your build log. Can you point me to it?  URL maybe?

 

Thanks

Michael