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bmudry

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About bmudry

  • Birthday 04/30/1973

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  1. Very impressive build so far! Great work on those tiny working hinges too! Just going back to the beginning now to get some info on the starting process of the build to help me with mine.
  2. As above, I am going to post my initial thoughts on the pros and cons for the kit, starting with the bad and ending on a positive note with the pros (see next log entry). Cons The instructions are horrible, totalling 6 pages, I would not even call them instructions. While I don’t expect Lego quality instructions with a model ship kit, I do believe that every kit should come with instructions that actually show the model being built. Something like the practicums or instructions that come with the Sultana or Syren should be there for every kit made. After all someone had to develop the kit to start with, do it right, take pictures and notes and supply them. On the “instructions”, just as bad or maybe even worse than how brief they are, the language is barely translated, being of worse quality than Babelfish or Google translate does. Really Corel, in this day and age there is no excuse for that. For inventory, there is no way to check if you have what you should. Corel supplies an inventory list, but as per their instructions, it is GARBAGE! It has no quantity listing, no good descriptions for parts or items that could be mistaken, and to make things worse something as simple as wood strips of the same size and type are listed in multiple places if they are used for multiple things. Completely unacceptable. The blocks and grate pieces supplied in the kit are junk. Some of the blocks are split, many are misformed and the grate pieces are frayed, split, or broken. Due to the above inventory issue, something as simple as looking up how much rigging and scale rope, or how many dead eyes and blocks are there, so that we can order better ones from Chuck’s site is impossible as it simply is not listed. No soft wood for fillers at the bow or stern to help with shape. Scale issues… This should not even be an issue, but for some reason they can not seem to get it straight. The scale is listed on the box, in the books, and on the plans as different. I see it listed as 1:50, 1:60, 1:54, and 1:64 depending where you look. Come on people…. Pros The actual plans are extremely nice and seem to show almost everything you would ever need to know. There are 9 of them and they cover a lot. My only complaint is that some are not actual size and therefore you need to remember to convert the size when working from them. On top of the kit supplied plans I have the excellent book and plan set by Ray Parkin and that should help even more, and is strongly recommended to anyone building any model of the Endeavour. The wood supplied with the kit is of very good quality, and while I have to double check everything it seems like only a few of the strips are damaged or split. Most of the fittings and parts are very nice and of good quality (the exceptions being noted in the cons above). The scale rigging and rope is very nice and much better than the cheaper thread supplied in some kits. (I would prefer that it be supplied in both black and tan, rather than just tan, but that is not how Corel presents their models.) The kit does seem like a good value (especially at Model Expo's 1/2 off price) given the quality of the wood and parts. It would be a great value if Corel fixed the cons. Overall I am still happy with the kit, as I knew going in what to expect from Corel. It still is a shame though, as the plans and materials are generally excellent. The lack of instructions and a few bad pieces though, really put this kit out of the realm or the beginner and should make even experienced builders (more experienced than me) think twice, as there are a lot of things you will need to figure out on your own.
  3. This is my third ship build and second build log, the first build log is currently still ongoing (Sultana). While it would probably be best to work on a single ship at a time, I normally have multiple hobby projects ongoing and was looking for a winter project with the wife. So, with the recent sale over at model expo, I figured why not, and let her pick a ship that she liked the look of. The Endeavour is one of the kits that I have always wanted to build, along with the Bluenose II, Constitution, Agamemnon, and Victory. Those others (other than the Bluenose II) are currently above my comfort level and will likely wait to be retirement projects. The Endeavour seemed to be a decent choice currently though as it has all the basics of the bigger ships and it a decent scale to work with. This will also be my first plank on bulkhead kit, so it will be a challenge. It is my wife’s first ever ship kit, but not her first ship. A number of years back we built several foam, plastic, and wood ships as terrain and gaming pieces for a Games Workshop Gamesday event and she had a lot of fun making those (including several large 30”+ long High Elf galleys with carved dragon heads and 24” Beastman barges). She has also helped make tons of terrain for wargaming over the years as she likes the building stage of those games, but really hates the games themselves. As stated in my other build log… “I knew Corel kits had bad instructions as my neighbour is building the Wappen Von Hamburg right now and I have had to help him figure out several steps due to the poor instructions. I did not realize exactly what we were getting into, or how bad the instructions really could be though.... 7 pages of instructions with no pictures and extremely broken english.... oh boy!!! I will start a build log on it soon, and be looking for LOTS of help!!!!" We started with the normal kit inventory, and while it looks like everything is there, it really is hard to tell. To make it clearer why, and what is good and bad from my impressions I am going to post another log entry with my thoughts on the pros and cons for the kit, starting with the bad and ending on a positive note with the pros (see next log entry). On the build itself, as per comments by ca.shipwright on his build log (ca.shipwright - HMB Endeavour) I have already come across two issues: I find that I do not like the bow and stern filler solution from Corel and will likely fill it with a softwood block and shape it from there. I cannot imagine that getting the planks to shape at both ends of the ship is going to be easy, and therefore will avoid having to struggle with it more than necessary and add in some fillers to help. There is nothing talking about any rabbet along the keel for the planking. I have looked several times, and tried to figure out if there should be and am not sure. I come to the same kind of conclusion that CA.shipwright did in that since the keel will be planked, that forms a form of rabbet and that might be enough. Any comments would help. Getting ready for the build I got a keel clamp ready following Hamilton's basic plans, and while it works well, I am going to have to find another solution for this ship. Since the Endeavour is so flat bottomed, there really is no way to get any bolts onto the clamp other than at the front and back of the clamp and I am not sure that will hold. So far we just have the bulkheads to a basic shape and the keep shaped and glued. The bulkheads are fitted in but not glued so that they can be further shaped before gluing them in. Before we go further, thoughts from anyone on how to proceed with regards to the rabbet (or if we need one at all given how Corel shows to plank the keel as well) and thoughts on filler wood at the bow.
  4. Well it has been a while since my last update, but there has been some solid progress since then, and some very early progress on my other build. Something I am still having issues with though on this build are the volutes as I have now done them 3 times and I just keep making them too big. I am getting close to the point of just putting a ball of greenstuff on the model and then carving it or shaping it there. I know I can do that, since I can sculpt faces at 28mm scale, it’s just the doing it separate from the model that is messing with me here. Anyway, I have been working on the rest of the deck items, the rail items, and the front end of the ship. I used a small bead as suggested at the end of the tiller, and it has since been painted black. Man are some of these pieces TINY. Cutting the slots into the catheads and carving the cheeks were especially difficult at this scale. They are done though and I think the only real parts at the front left to do are the timberheads which I have started to carve but only have half of them done. I now have the back railing on and will now be painting it and then adding on the posts for the swivel guns. I think it is then onto the masts.
  5. Another question or two for you Pat, and sorry if the answers are listed someplace earlier in the build log, but I checked twice and can not see them.... I see that you replaced all (or at least most) of the rigging that came with the kit. I really do not like the all tan approach that Corel supplies the kit with and and would much rather do the correct black standing rigging and tan running rigging. So the first question is, did you happen to keep track of what sizes and amounts you ordered / made? Secondly, did you follow the suggested Corel rigging or something else? I have a copy of the excellent Bark Endeavour book and plans by Ray Parkin, and while I haven't examined them in detail (as rigging in a LONG way in my future) it appears to have slight differences. Thanks Byron
  6. Nice recovery and great looking build! I have been looking at some of the plastic hooks that you used that broke. Question to you, was it just the excesive force that caused the break, or do you think they are a weak point being plastic once under some stress?
  7. I will be following with interest Michael as I just got the Corel Endeavour in as well and am starting on it soon. Nice looking materials and great plans, but wow are the "instructions" horrible. Looking forward to seeing some build pictures when you get a chance.
  8. Excellent idea on the building board, and one I shamelessly copied. :-) I now have a 2' copy of yours for any future projects that I don't feel comfortable with in the amanti keel clamp I have. I took it a bit wider though so that there is plenty space to put a square on either side for when I am putting the ribs in to keep them aligned.
  9. Its been a little while since my last post with updates, and once again I forgot to pictures at some key times. I started with getting the rudder attached, using some thin brass I had to make the pintles and gudgeons. I also formed the trim to attach and painted it before attaching (unlike when I made my Phantom). I then finished all the waterways on the deck. The one big step that I forgot to take pictures of was making the channel plates for the deadeyes. Most of them came out really good, but there are two that I don't like. I need to redo them, but didnt really notice them until the plates were attached to the hull of the ship and don't want to damage the plate or the other deadeyes so working myself up to it. Once they were all attached it was time to also drill the sculpers and line them with lead to show up. While I used the right dimension drill and got them lines up all the way through the hull from the inside waterway, they just don't look big enough. At this scale it is hard to even see the angle of them, I am strongly considering enlarging them, any thoughts? I know they won't be "scale" but the appearance is more important to me than being exactly scale. After that I moved onto working on all the grates and items on the deck, and the window frames for the transom and quarter badges. These are TINY and were a pain to make, but turned out pretty well. The image shows before cleanup on them, but still shows them well. Lastly I attached all of these items to the ship. More to come this weekend since there should be more time to work on it due to being the Thanksgiving long weekend. As long as I don't overload on turkey and sleep it away :-) In my infinite "OH SHINY and NEW" (SQUIRREL!!!) hobby mentality, I also picked up another ship to work on over the winter due to the Model Expo money back sale that just ran. The wife has helped with many projects over the years for wargaming, mainly terrain and buildings, and likes ships as well, so we figured a winter project would be a good way to spend some more time together. Well, we both liked the Endeavour so grabbed it and it arrived today. I knew Corel kits had bad instructions as my neighbour is building the Wappen Von Hamburg right now and I have had to help him figure out several steps due to the poor instructions. I did not realize exactly what we were getting into, or how bad the instructions really could be though.... 7 pages of instructions with no pictures and extremely broken english.... oh boy!!! I will start a build log on it soon, and be looking for LOTS of help!!!! While we both want it to turn out well, it really is just going to be something to spend some time together on over the long cold winters here.
  10. Great looking build so far! I will be following along as I have one of these in the queue to be built eventually, so it will be nice to take some notes as you go through the process and file them away with the ships binder I have going.
  11. I think it is a very good ship to start on, especially if you follow along with Chuck Passaro's Practicum and do the planking along the top instead of just thinning out the bullwarks. I thinned the bullwarks on the Phantom solid hull that I built, and I can tell you that this method is far easier and looks better. If you haven't downloaded the practicum yet, it is free over on Model Expo's site under documents when you look at the Sultana, you can find it here: Sultana page. It will walk you through a lot of things that are not explained at all in the pamphlet that is supposed to pass as an instruction manual that comes with the kit. I understand that is the nature of model ship kits, but it also is what makes it hard for new comers, so stick to a few kits that have practicums available until you are comfortable with what you are doing and what you expect it to turn out like.
  12. Day 5, 6, 7 ( Sept 25-27) This update to the build log covers the last three days. I got busy with a few other distractions (video games, board games with the wife and friends, and other miscellaneous things around the house), so my time on the Sultana was limited to an hour here, an hour there. However over the three days combined I felt I got a lot done as there was a lot of drying time in between on several steps for both paint and glue. I started by lightly sanding the hull yet again, then putting on another coat of white paint. I did this twice to get a nice finish without brush strokes. That took a little while, and I may still go back, mask the ship and put another coat on with the airbrush to get a really smooth finish, we will see, as I will decide for sure just before I put the masts in. I then painted the inside of the bullwarks red as per the build guide. I was not to worried about getting it on top of them as they would be covered with cap rails, or even onto the deck since that would be covered as well. However it was a good time to get it done now before either of those items were in place and then worry about having touch ups to do. Once the hull was all finished I moved on to creating the cap rails and getting them shaped to fit. The hardest one was the front since it needed to be cut from a sheet and is easy to break or miss-cut since it is thin and the center is with the grain of the wood. I managed to get my second attempt to work though as the first one broke during final sanding. The cap for over the transom was fairly easy other than having to make a jig to form the wood after soaking it for a while. With the cap rails cut I moved onto shaping the wales so that they would be ready as well. Once all the pieces were cut and test fitted I painted them off the ship so that they could be put on with minimal issue. Before attaching the cap rail and wales, (other than the rear cap rail) I moved onto the decking of the ship. This is one area where I am not following the guide that Mr. Passaro provides. While I agree that the supplied pre-scribed sheet is the wrong scale and the board would be too narrow in real life, for my purposes it doesn’t make a difference, no one that looks at it here will either know or care. For those that want the ship as real as possible, I strongly suggest following the practicum rather than using the supplied sheet. That probably makes a lot of model ship builders cringe, but it is just my take on it. If I was building something for a museum or historical show, I would do it all as close as possible to real life, but I am not. This attitude comes from my other hobby of table top war gaming, where sometimes you paint to the best of your ability and other times you just paint something to get it on the table to play games with. When painting a miniature for a painting competition I have at times spent 40-60 hours on a single 28mm tall miniature. The results are stunning. However, if I was to attempt to do that when painting my Canadian and German WWI forces at almost 100 models in each army, I would never get done, therefore I paint those to a table top standard and spend about 2 hours per model. Again, sorry if not following exact historical details make some cringe, but I am going to overall effect, rather than exact replication. Before actually measuring and fitting the decking, I measured and cut the face planks and edge planks. These were then installed and the face plates painted red to match the bullwarks and the edge planks were stained. I then moved on to cutting and test fitting the decking once I had the final spacing needed. Since I used the supplied decking sheet it also meant that I could not realistically put in seams between board lengths or add the trunnels. I did try, and luckily had some spare sheet left over from another ship, because it just doesn’t look right at that small a scale. It looks like too perfect a pattern even though the pattern was 5 boards wide. I therefore scrapped that one floor section and re-cut it. Once the decking was cut, it was stained and then glued in place. After that I moved on to putting all of the cap rails and wales on. At this point I come to another place I chose to vary from the practicum. While I agree that there should be decorative scrolls on the ship I far prefer working with Green Stuff than working with Sculpey. Coming from miniatures, green stuff is the standard, it is a two part sculpting epoxy that comes as a soft blue and yellow tube or strip. You take equal parts of each and knead them together to make a green slightly stiff clay type material and then you have roughly an hour to work with it and shape it however you want. As it hardens you can work it differently, applying big detail at the beginning while it is soft and finer detail as it hardens. Since it is an epoxy is also bonds to anything you press it to and allow it to harden too, meaning you can use it to join pieces and fill gaps. For anyone that has not tried it, it is a much better option than any of the clays you need to bake (at least in my opinion). I made several of the scrolls (volutes) and am waiting for them to harden completely before cutting the excess away and sculpting them onto the ship with additional green stuff to fill in between them. But that is for another day, and in fact maybe not until next weekend since I am back to work tomorrow. So, here is the current state of the ship, next steps are not the scrolls and starting to work on the deck features.
  13. Day 3 and 4 (Sept 23-24) I got busy a little bit on both days, so not quite as far along as I hoped, but still good progress. Also, I got so wrapped up in working on it, that I missed taking photos at several key stages… doh! I have a note on my wall by my plans now saying “Take Pictures!”. I started out by finishing the rest of the planking, and then moved on to drilling all the holes for the trunnels puttying them, and then sanding them. I had not done this before and the guide from Mr. Passaro made it look very simple and worth the effort. It was in fact extremely easy and gives a very nice effect. It took most of day 3 to get all of the planking done, holes drilled, filled, time to dry and then sanded. So it was not until late in the evening that I cleaned it all up, masked the bottom and applied a coat of stain. I am pretty happy with how it turned out other that two things: - The first is that I wish I would have done though is gone a bit bigger on the drill bit I used, as some show up very nice and others don’t, I am pretty sure this is due to the size being too small to accept enough wood filler and the grain of the wood covering such a small hole after sanding. Oh well, next time! - The second is that there are a few small areas where the CA got on the front of a board and the stain is not being accepted into the board. I have tried sanding it a bit and re-staining but it just will not take it, so I needed to be more careful. I will put another layer just on those areas later, and if not very carefully match a colour to it from my Vallejo miniature paints. I will wait and see though, does anyone have an way to get it to accept the stain? Or and I stuck using a glaze consistency paint to touch it up? Or is this just what I get for using CA rather than woodglue, pins, patience, and time? Today I lightly sanded and stained again, and then let it all dry as I moved onto carving the stem. I remember having issues with the Phantom at this stage and the Sultana was no different. It took a lot of back and forth to get a solid fit all the way down. Luckily I managed on the first piece, unlike the Phantom which took 2 attempts because I broke the first after getting it 90% fit. Once the stain was dry I moved onto getting the stem and keel attached. Then onto several thin coats of wood filler and sanding to smooth the hull for paint. That all being done, and friends on the way to play games tonight, I just had time to get one coat of a white Vallejo primer onto it and I will clean it up tomorrow (light sand) and get a second coat on it. Thoughts so far? For all the expert builders out there, please point out things that I should be doing that I am missing, I am used to working of far different and smaller models like these a 1/1200 scale British 3rd rate and a 28mm old lady.
  14. Day 2 (Tuesday Sept 22) So the day started with a trip to the hobby store to pick up all the wood I was going to need to follow the practicum rather than the kit instructions. Something to remember though, motorcycle panniers are not that big, luckily the kit isn’t very big so I could get away with cutting the strips in half at the store to 18” and they would still be just fine. Next time, I should have thought of that before just jumping on the bike to enjoy a fall ride as if the kit was any bigger, it would have meant a second trip back with the car. Anyway, once back home, I setup a jig to start soaking and shaping the wood before putting in onto the hull. I actually made several of these so that I could get all the wood into shape in a short period of time and let it all dry once. While waiting for everything to dry I also marked out and carved out some of the areas on the hull that would need to be removed, such as the area for the ladder down below deck. The picture was taken after planking had begun, so ignore it in the background. With that done and several planks bent and dried I started adding them to the hull and etching them to show the fake plank lengths. Between everything gluing and drying I also took some time to create the transom out of a few layers of 1/32 wood. It still needs the detail added, but I have the basic shape created and ready for fitting once all the upper planking is done. By the end of the afternoon, I had both sides done and the upper section at the front, but then had to call it quits for the day as we had an event at my son’s school to go to. Overall though I am happy with progress and aim to finish the rest of the planking tomorrow, then start drilling and doing the trunnels, keel, stem, and sternpost. Well, that’s the plan anyway.
  15. I have always liked wooden ships, but have also always had about a million other things on the go both hobby wise and in real life. I picked up a few wooden ship kits several years ago and worked my way through the Model Shipways Phantom as a first go at the hobby. It turned out ok and based on that I picked up a Sultana as a next step, a Syren as a third build, and a Bluenose. I finished the Phantom in about 3 months, but then got sidetracked with painting several new Warhammer 40,000 armies, several 15mm WWII armies, and forces for several other miniatures games that I play. Now, 3 years after finishing the Phantom, I decided enough is enough time to get another ship done. It also didn’t hurt that I had an extra week of banked time at work that needed to be used before the end of September, so I decided to start on this and get a good start on it with the hope of being done before mid-December as at that point an annual miniature painting challenge starts and I have over 200 miniatures lined up to be painted from December through March. While I have extensive hobby experience and scratch building experience it has all been with metal, resin, plastic, and green stuff (sculpting compound), so I specifically picked ships that came with or had practicum’s available so that I could work through them with some extra guidance from some experts. That led me to the Phantom and Syren to start, even though what I really want to build is a Bluenose and a Victory. Anyway, enough background, onto the build…. Day 1 (Monday Sept. 21) The Syren kit from Model Shipways is an excellent, if not very exciting kit for beginners. We all want something big and complicated and impressive looking, but that’s not a great idea. I learned this from painting miniatures, start easy and move up. Having completed a Phantom, I thought the next step would be something with some planking. Even though this kit is a solid hull, the practicum explains how to improve on the base and plank the top half of the kit. I thought this would be a good next step. Day one involved a lot of sanding and shaping of the hull. I first removed the bulwarks and cleaned up the hull a bit as there was some rough spots. I Then moved onto making sure the keel area was flat and centered. Next came marking the line on the hull above which I would need to carve away material to make room to plank. I then marked out the lines to follow so that I could follow Mr. Passaro’s practicum on doing faked board lengths. It was at this point that I realized I needed more wood as all of the planks I would need are not in the kit as it wasn’t meant to be done this way. This made a stop for the day, but by that point I had some video games calling me….

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