USS Constitution by xken - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76.8

[kurtvd19]

Yeah, the kit piece is never going to be better than the master.  GIGO applies to kit pieces too. 

 

I got some bollards in a tug kit that were nowhere near round.  Very much an oval shape and way too thin on the thinner side of the oval to even attempt to make them round by filing.  It would have been an exercise in futility to ask the manufacturer for new parts - the replacement would not have been better as it wasn't a matter of an incomplete fill - the molds were worn out.

 

I inherited a bunch of old parts from a club member.  He worked part time for a downtown Chicago hobby shop that closed in the late 60's or so and he got all the ship fittings - fills a whole bunch (27) drawers of a cabinet that just fit in my mini-van.  All the parts are in extremely dusty/dirty manila envelopes of the day.  Opening them up is a real treat because most of the parts are of very good quality.  Brass castings, brass turnings, multi-part brass pieces soldered together.  Names like Boucher, A J Fisher, Marine Models, Billings, Model Shipways.  Now, none of these parts are newer than 1970 or earlier. 

 

Of course, some are better than others, but they were all better than the average parts in a lot of today's kits.  Amazing quality - maybe it's because these were all made in the USA (exception being Billings)

 

Not any signs of the dreaded white lead disease - maybe it's because these were all made in the USA? (same exception)

 

I wish I could use some of these parts as masters and make up new fittings in the metal spin casting machine I also inherited from the same guy.  Even if I could do it legally there just isn't enough time left. 

 

Kurt

[xken]

Kurt, If you ever wish to pursue casting parts I could connect you with the guy that did the Allerton parts his work is excellent and reasonable. On the 00-90 bolts he even captured the threads enough to be able to thread a nut on.

[kurtvd19]

Ken:

Thanks.  Yes, I was amazed that the cast threads worked so well when I assembled the pumper.  The detail was amazing on all the cast parts for that kit.  I told a buddy of mine about the horse drawn hearse and the high quality cast parts that will be in that kit (from your masters) and if it's ever produced he wants one built.

Kurt

[xken]

]Kurt, the Ladder Wagon was completed and delivered the Hearse is on hold, just need to complete the plans and instructions when I get the go ahead.

 

Here is the Ladder Wagon prototype with working ladder.

 

[xken]

Tried painting the nameplate with a 0000 brush and I did not consider it acceptable. I fell back on Photoshop and did the nameplate, the eagle shield as well as the bow stars and shields.

I am working on the curved molding and need to fabricate the ring plates prior to adding them.

 

Here is a picture of the eagle and nameplate as well as the artwork I did to share with others; however only for personal builds no copying for resale applications. For sizing reference the eagle shield is 5/32" high; length of nameplate is 2" black edge to black edge.

Once I printed them I sprayed the paper with Krylon Matte Finish; first a light coat to set the ink and then a heavier coat; this aids in stiffening the paper and easier to cut with scissors. They were glued in place using Carpenter glue and a light coat applied on the back of the paper with a toothpick. The nameplate corners may need trimming and edges once cut out blackened with a black marker. 

 

 

 

Now to fabricate the ring plates.

[JSGerson]

You used the same method to attached the nameplate as I did for my Rattlesnake (post 337) except that I made a decal to be placed on wood instead of printing on paper. It was then I realized that printers cannot print white. Obviously in the Constitution case, the background on the nameplate is black and the only way to get white printing is to do it the way you did. I just never thought about it before. Very nice job

 

Jon

[David Lester]

It worked pretty well; I just wish I'd thought of it before I bought the dry transfer letters which I found almost impossible to work with. Any thoughts for the numbering that runs down the bow?

 

David

[JSGerson]

I've not done bow numbering before. The Rattlesnake is my first POB as well my first 3 masted ship. My best guess is either the transfer lettering (which you've had poor results so far) or homemade decals. The problem with decals in this case is they have to be white and you can't print white. Printing on paper, cutting them to size, and having them match the background exactly would be extremely difficult and I don't think they would look good. That leaves the transfers. I think you might have better luck with them here because you have more working room. You might want to check other build logs and see what they have done. Sorry I couldn't of been of more help in this case.

 

Jon

[xken]

David, the only way is with white decals. White can be printed but only on an ALPS printer which are usually commercially owned. Just need to find a decal supplier and send the artwork. Another option is finding a railroad decal number set or maybe a couple.

When I have time I may check around for some.

[kurtvd19]

Some time ago I had dry transfers done up for ships names.  Proper arc to the art work so it laid down right on the transom for transfer.  Straight for the bow.  Had them done in gold and white.

I was doing this for dozens of models at the same time so it was economical.  I recently saw some DIY dry transfer sheets.  White was shown.  When (or if) I remember where I saw these I will post them but a google search might just turn them up.

 

Ken, last week I was looking at the photos you sent me of the ladder wagon.  There will be a lot of firefighters wanting that kit.

Kurt

[xken]

David, here is a start check this link:

 http://www.hobbylinc.com/cgi-bin/s8.cgi?cat_s=UPB&tag0_i=873

 

Kurt, don't tell me tell Marc he needs to get it into production.

[GMO2]

• Kurt,  A few posts back you mentioned having a trove of fittings from old school ship model companies such as A.J. Fisher.I have a set of plans for their three Island tramp steamer that I would enjoy building.Do you suppose a set of fittings is residing in your collection?

[Jack12477]

Ken, Testors makes a decal paper in both Clear and White background along with a software program from Sure Thing Decal Maker. Here's a link 

 

Denis (Popeye the Sailor) provided me with the link and information on how to make my own decals for the Marie Jeanne I just completed.  You have to use the Decal Bonder spray to set the ink to the decal after the ink dries.  You want the Standard Edition of the program to get the most function - like importing images for example.

[kurtvd19]

• Kurt,  A few posts back you mentioned having a trove of fittings from old school ship model companies such as A.J. Fisher.I have a set of plans for their three Island tramp steamer that I would enjoy building.Do you suppose a set of fittings is residing in your collection?

It is very likely that some if not all of the fittings are in one of the Fisher drawers.  The only problem being that they are labeled only with part numbers - some have a short description as to the type of part.  But most are in old manila envelopes and need to be opened to see what is inside.  If you have part numbers and descriptions I could look, but to say you need a capstan or winch or ventilator doesn't help w/o the part number.  At least until the day comes where I can sort these all out. 

 

And day was used figuratively as I think if I was able to sit and work 8 hour days at sorting it would take a month or so to organize these parts in clear envelopes with part numbers and sizes with descriptions so that if I was looking for a capstan I could look in the capstan area or if I needed a specific part number it could be found  - time I just don't have and will not have until I step away from the NRG stuff that I enjoy as much as building and writing.

 

If you have part numbers I will look for them - it will take a bit - but let me know.  Send me a PM with the info.

 

Kurt

[xken]

Kurt, tell me about that spin caster you have, ie what type.

 

Anybody have a source for 3D stars for the transom of the Constitution?

[CaptainSteve]

Would something like Sculpey work for the stars ??

[GMO2]

Kurt, Thanks for the reply.The old Fisher catalogs had listings of all the kit fittings,but can't recall if there were part #'s.It;s probably a lost cause,but thanks anyway.

[xken]

Found a source for stars; best option so far looking at the 5/16" and 3/16" gold stars. Let me know your thoughts, right now the 5/16" might be just a tad too big. I like them for there definition and crispness.

 

https://www.usamilitarymedals.com/collections/devices-attachments?page=1

[JSGerson]

Getting back to the numbers on the cutwater, I did a little searching of my collection of build logs and model images of the Constitution. Of the nearly 50 different models I looked at, only about 2 or 3 of them had partial or full depth marks. The best I found was done by Ken Goetz which can be found at Midwest Model Shipwrights. Unfortunately there is no build log associated with the images. So best guess was white transfers or maybe commercially made decals were used.

 

Jon

[xken]

Jon, my guess is that you are correct and I think they would be water slide decals.

[JSGerson]

I found these white Roman number decals on HobbyLinc. - Gothic R.R. Letters -- White -- 1/16'', 3/32", 1/8", and 5/16'' -- Model Railroad Decal -- #mg721.(all on one sheet)

 

Since I don't know how big the real markings are, I hopefully these will work.

[kurtvd19]

I just confirmed with Ken Goetz that he used press type lettering for his markings.  Ken's a local club member and we got to see the progress of this model going together each month until it got too big with the rigging and all to haul to meetings each month.  These markings were nicely done but I had to ask him how he did them with the memory being what it is anymore - I just say that the hard drive is full and some data's going to be lost to store new data.

Kurt

[JSGerson]

Ken did a hellova job with those transfers. It's hard enough to use them on paper with a flat surface and get them lined up properly, but on a curved surface in which you need extra hands just to hold the model steady while the transfers are rubbed on; outstanding! I should know, I used these transfers all the time in pre-computer days making custom made office forms.

 

Jon

[xken]

Before I could added the molding I needed the transom rings which I fabricated with brass sheet, twisted eyebolt soldered in center then drilled for bolt locations. Once finished they were glued in place and molding added being cut and fitted around them.

 

Next the window covers were cut and fitted with both halves glued at center joint. Then I decided that the windows really needed their flanges. Here is a sequence show how I cut them on my Sherline lathe with the thickness of the flange being .008" thick.

 

Here you can see the results in place, but upside down.

 

Now to cut the rest of the window flanges 2 down 8 to go. Thinking ahead what are builders thoughts on a rope walk and making one's own rope?

 

[donrobinson]

Very nice work, your lathe skills are fascinating, looks like you have a four jaw chuck is it a self centring one? I also have a Sherline lathe and am always looking for different uses other than just for for spars and masts. Thanks for your tutorial!!

[xken]

Don, yes it is a self centering and what it is great at with the four jaw is holding square brass stock and turning down square headed bolts. The Sherline is precise enough I have turned down 1/16" square headed bolts. In fact, Kurt could attest to the quality since he used cast ones on his Allerton build. I have also used the lathe to seize shroud lines as well, works best with the hand wheel.

[David Lester]

Hi Ken, the transom is looking beautiful!

David

[xken]

David, thank you! It is getting there slowly but surely. In looking around I saw one build discussing lighting and I also saw some with bolt heads in the inner walls and thought I would share this link to a sight for 1/8" brass nails which are great for round headed applications and also all the electrical needs for lighting. While this is a dollhouse site the electrical products might have ship application for lighting.

 

I forgot to mention the round head diameter is .048" or about 3/64".

 

http://cir-kitconcepts.com/shop/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=12

Edited March 12, 2016 by xken

[xken]

Finished up the porthole frames and installed them along with the pulling ropes for the window covers. While at a local dollhouse store looking to see if they had any stars; which they did not I ran across a supply of wood trims and profiles and the ones I thought appropriate for ship building I purchased. In the little treasure trove were several 3/32 double half round boxwood trim pieces that I will use to add to the edges of the main rails. 

 

Here is a picture of the trim in place on the transom rail before staining and again the height is 3/32"

 

 

Here is a picture of the finished transom for now minus the anchor chain which I will add towards the end of the build due to its delicacy and my at times clumsy handling of the hull.

 

 

Next I will ponder my next move which will include adding some of the rail trim and move on to building the cannons for the gundeck. 

 

Any tips or advice on painting the bow decoration strips and scroll work, hand painting is not one of my strengths. Also still waiting for any thoughts on rope walks and making of ones own rope.

[GLakie]

She has a lovely bum there Ken! Nice work!