HMB Endeavour by Captain Slog - Caldercraft - 1:64

[texxn5]

very nice work on the deadeyes and chains. Very repetitive, but worth it in the long run.

[src]

John, Thank you! Always a pleasure to see new faces. I grumble a lot about things, but I am enjoying this.

 

Sam

[texxn5]

I think grumbling goes with the territory...without it life is dull.....

[Captain Slog]

Hi guys,

 

Only made a small bit of progress lately what with long hours at work, jobs for the Admiral, the release of GTA V and the BF4 beta and a dozen more things vying for my time I managed to secure the rest of the chains and did the Lower Main Studding Sail Boom.

 

Okay all the chains are finally secured to the hull on both sides.  I mentioned previously of an issue which would raise its ugly head.  Not all the chains terminate in a preventer link so attached them as per the plans.  On the main channel, 3^rd link in, there is a preventer link left off as the chain link is fixed above a hatch.  Well as can be seen despite not having a preventer link it joins the hull below the hatch essentially making the hatch useless.

 

As far as I am aware I did place the hatches as per the plan measurements so something is off, me, the plans or both. Oh well another lesson learned.  Not to bothered as it gets lost in the general busyness of the area.

 

 

Here are the components for making the lower main studding sail boom.  3mm dowel cut to 125mm, 4 photo etch brackets, cast white metal hoop brackets (which I replaced) and 1mm brass rod for the hinges.  I ended up using 0.8mm instead.

 

 

For the booms the plans say to cut the 3mm dowel to 125mm and the plans show an obvious taper to them, which I reckoned to be 2mm at the end.  I cut them over length and stuck them into the drill press and whilst running at the fastest speed used some 240 paper to sand them down to a taper.  Once done they were cut to the final length.

 

 

There was quite a discussion on the cast metal hoop brackets the kit supplies on Kenr’s Endeavour log in MSW 1.0 with the agreement that in real life the booms wouldn’t be able to be released from the hoops.  The solution was to cut the cast hoop in half and pin it to the channel so the boom could sit in it.

 

I thought this was an opportunity to do some more silver soldering so cut strips of brass sheet the width of the bracket and bent round the boom and trimmed.  The new brass hoops were then silver solder to the bracket.

 

 

The AOTS shows that both ends of the boom have metal banding round them so simulated this with the supplied black cartridge paper using PVA applied to the paper strips with a paint brush.  The 0.8mm wire was bent to the shape on the plans and a hole drilled into the end of the boom.

 

 

I tried yet another stain and this time it is Cabots Maple satin Stain/Varnish which is getting closer to what I am after colour wise.

 

 

The iron (brass)work was treated to 10 minutes in hydrochloric acid, then rinsed with water followed by 2 minutes in Birchwood Casey Brass Black bought from the local gun shop then rinsed again followed by a gentle rubbing with a soft cloth.

 

 

The finished lower main studding sail boom.  I can lift the boom off but will at a later stage lash it down to the hoop bracket for permanent fixing.

 

 

Cheers

Slog

[Micklen32]

So perfect

I am taken aback by the skill and excellence of the build and hang my head in shame a bit when I look at mine

Fantastic work Slog

I am not worthy

Edited October 8, 2013 by Micklen32

[RGL]

Question without notice, are you going to rig the booms? I'm putting off the stuff on the sides (anchors etc) until I've finished the masts.

[Jeff-E]

Hi Slog,

 

Excellent work on the studding sail booms and their brackets .I love the detail you are putting into this build  

[Captain Slog]

Hi Mick, thanks for the kind words but don’t be hard on yourself.  I also look at the work of others then look at mine and feel the same way.  As long as you are enjoying yourself then its all good.

 

Hi Greg I wasn’t going to rig the booms, as far as I can tell there is no rigging on them in the stored position but probably wrong on this.  The AOTS does show little wooden cleats (nailed?) on to them.  I only remembered about them after finishing the varnish so choose to leave them off.

 

The booms can be removed and refitted at the end if necessary. I am spending my time doing all the little bits and pieces I can as putting off doing the masting.  I don’t really have the space at the moment working off the end of the kitchen table and have to tidy up and pack away after each build session.

 

Thanks Jeff, had a look at your latest build and looking good, certainly different from the other section builds,  I don’t think I have came across a bow section before.

 

 

 

I have today, the weekend and the Monday off so hopefully will be able to tinker away a bit.  I thought I would do some more work on the cannons and thought I would try blackening the barrels since I seem to have found a process that has worked for me so far.

 

Did the usual 10mm soak in the acid and after rinsing again 2 minutes in the blackening solution.  The photo below shows 2 barrels, one how it looks after chemical blackening and after buffing with a soft cloth.  Quite pleased with the result as it almost shows how a blackened barrel and a painted barrel would look like as I was previously going to paint them.  Happy I didn’t.

 

The 4 pounders waiting for their carriages.

 

Cheers

Slog

[Jeff-E]

Hi Slog,

 

The cannons turned out really well, they look much better than being painted. I might have to go to my local gun shop and get some of that solution for the Victory's guns  

[Captain Slog]

Hi Jeff, I highly recommend giving it a try.  Way back in the beginning of my build until recently I was resistant to try it as read lots of posts in MSW 1.0 where it seemed to be a very hit or miss affair getting even coverage or a nice colour, or it flaked off etc.

 

Some of the processes described seemed to much bother as well with scrub the brass with this and rinse with that and then soak in something else and repeat etc; then someone on MSW 2.0 (I apologise for not giving credit as I can’t remember) posted this link, http://www.modelboatyard.com/blackening.html to an article on blackening.

 

Seemed much simpler and gave it go and it works…for me any way.  I don’t clean my brass work in anything prior, although most of it would have seen the hot end of the torch so I guess contaminates are burned off.

 

A quick soak of 10 or more minutes in the acid followed by a rinse in water and then a couple of minutes in the blackening solution followed by a rinse in water again and a buff.  I haven’t noticed any difference in 100% neat solution or 50/50 water solution or any difference between 2 and 4 minutes but it would pay to experiment.

 

I think the Blackening was $20 bucks and I got the hydrochloric acid from Bunnings which was $8 or $9 bucks.  They had a couple of different brands and volumes.

 

Cheers

Slog

[Jeff-E]

Hi Slog ,

 

Thank you very much for the all of the info    . I will see if I can get some over the weekend and give it a try

[ZyXuz]

good job on the cannons weathering!

they turned out well

[keith_mitchell]

Hi Slog,

Have been following your build log with awe. I too am building the Caldercraft Endeavour though I've only just finished the first planking. Thankfully we have you to document any unforseen problems plus of course your solutions! As this is my first wood boat build and due to total lack of imagination I shall probably follow the kit instructions to the letter however. I will start my own build log in the near future when I feel I have done enough to make it interesting.

Keep up the amazing work Slog.

Regards,

Keith

[Captain Slog]

No worries Jeff.

 

Thanks ZyXuz, I am happy how they turned out.  They could be a bit darker maybe, but don’t want to do anymore on them in case I mess them up so happy as they are.

 

HI Keith, thanks for the kind words.  The Caldercraft Endeavour builds a nice model straight from the box.  As far as I can remember I don’t think I have done much different than what is in the plans or provided in the kit either.  A couple of small embellishments or replacements but that’s about it.

 

It’s unfortunate about the MSW 1.0 crash as my log originally started from opening the box to the point this log continues from.  I also had a hard drive failure and only have some photos from the finish of second planking to current.

 

I was fortunate in the early days of my build that there several Caldercraft Endeavours running at the same time which were further on than me that I could learn from but they seem to have died out in MSW 2.0.  I highly recommend you start a log now, I would guess most people, including me find all stages of builds interesting.

 

I will be following your build when you are ready to post and just holler with any questions and I will help where I can.

 

 

Today was spent blackening about 150 of the supplied copper eyelets and fitting all the eyelets on the rear deck and channels.  Not much to show photo wise with that.  Probably do the pumps tomorrow and that should be the last of the rear deck fittings, oh and the iron horse.

 

Cheers

Slog

[src]

John, Thank you! Always a pleasure to see new faces. I grumble a lot about things, but I am enjoying this.

 

Sam

Slog,

I dont know how I managed to post that on your build!!! Sorry about that! 

Build looks great. Been following your deadeye and chain plate. Very nice. You mentioned smaller diameter wire for your carriages, there is a place called Detail Associates that carry brass wire down to 0.008". I have found it melts really easy though.

Keep up he great work.

Sam

[Captain Slog]

No worries Sam, I assumed it was a mix up  .  Thanks for the info on the wire.

 

 

As mentioned up above I decided to do the pumps but after seeing Mikes scratch pumps and then checking Steve’s and Greg's who also scratched the pumps I set them aside until I decide what to do.

 

 

The photo shows the cast white metal components which are quite chunky.  The castings themselves were of decent quality needing only a touch up with a file to clean off some casting seams.  The other parts needed are 4mm dowel and 0.7mm brass rod. Hmmmmm decisions decisions…

 

 

While I procrastinated about the pumps I decided to move to the bow, since the rear deck is hung up on the pumps, the mid deck is hung up on the ships boats and cannon, I am running out of areas to work on LOL.

 

First up is the fish davits.  Caldercraft supply 2 davit pads and 2 shackles but only 1 fish davit.  Not sure if the real ship had only one davit that they humphed from side to side?  Any way the davit pads are 1.5mm walnut ply which after cutting free from the sheet I sanded a slight round on the top edge as per the AOTS and stuck down with CA.

 

The davit shackles are photo etch brass.  The plans don’t mention how they are secured to the deck but the AOTS shows them attached to an eyebolt so used the supplied copper ones.  The shackle needed the hole enlarged slightly with a drill to accept the eyebolt and after opening the eyebolt slightly to accept the shackle it was squeezed closed again and the parts chemically blackened.

 

 

The fish davit pads and shackles in place.  I haven’t done the davit yet as it has an open sheave so need to come up a sheave to fill the slot.

 

 

The bumpkins were up next.  Away back when I was doing the bulwarks and before the top rail was down, I marked the position of the bumpkins and cut slots into the bulwarks ready for this day.  There was a fair bit of discussion in MSW about the position of the bumpkins and how they should be placed over the rail, or even if the Endeavour had bumpkins, but this is how the kit shows them so happy to go along with this set-up.

 

Once the 2 halves of the walnut ply bumpkins were glued together and a final sand to clean them up they slid through the previous made slot into the solid walnut brackets which were CA glued to the deck.

 

 

The cat-heads next.  I was swithering whether to cut full slots and make up and insert proper sheaves but again a lack of suitable material at hand decided for me so made false sheaves by drilling 1mm holes right through the cat-head and after scribing lines joining the holes the material was picked out with the craft knife.

 

 

A couple of photos of todays work.  I notice most people paint the cat heads black but decided to varnish first so that the securing bolts and ringbolts on the side  (this is not mentioned in the plans but is in the AOTS) stand out more.  I still have the thumb cleats on the sides to do (again not in the plans but is in the AOTS) as I was almost finished them when “one little trim needed to finish" caused one to break apart.

 

I may go back and paint them black but will see.

 

Cheers

Slog

[Jeff-E]

Hi Slog,

 

Your Bumkins and Catheads look great I think the varnished timber looks good and does show off the extras you put on them. As for the pumps I think the kit ones will look OK once you have blackened the parts with your brew, any way it can't hurt to make one up and see how it looks and if you don't like the result you can always scratch build them, just my 2 cents worth  

[Ferit]

Hi Slog,

Very very nice, clean and shapely...

Will the bumpkins be painted or stay as now?

[RGL]

I got some very wise advice from Danny a few years ago, take the off for as long as you can so you can do the rigging more easily

[Micklen32]

Lovely work as usual Slog

Totally different from mine again

My Bumkins sit ON the gallant rail and have also straightened out a bit after getting them just the right shape   

Also my cats eyes only have one roller at the top and then  that thing at the side

Someone did tell me what it's called but I have slept since then   

[Captain Slog]

Hi Slog,

 

Your Bumkins and Catheads look great I think the varnished timber looks good and does show off the extras you put on them. As for the pumps I think the kit ones will look OK once you have blackened the parts with your brew, any way it can't hurt to make one up and see how it looks and if you don't like the result you can always scratch build them, just my 2 cents worth  

 

Thanks Jeff.  Never thought of just doing one   . I think I will do that and see how it looks.  I think I will need to paint the cast white metal parts though as don't think the blackening will work on them.

 

Hi Slog,

Very very nice, clean and shapely...

Will the bumpkins be painted or stay as now?

Thanks Ferit, I will leave the bumpkins with the varnished finish.  Unfortunately they are built up with ply pieces which kind of stand out but happy enough with them.  I couldn't decide whether to paint the cat-heads black or leave varnished but 99% sure will leave them as is also.

 

I got some very wise advice from Danny a few years ago, take the off for as long as you can so you can do the rigging more easily

Good advice Greg.  I will leave off things like anchors which will catch sleeves etc but the cat-heads etc don't stick out to much and pretty solidly attached.

 

Lovely work as usual Slog

Totally different from mine again

My Bumkins sit ON the gallant rail and have also straightened out a bit after getting them just the right shape   

Also my cats eyes only have one roller at the top and then  that thing at the side

Someone did tell me what it's called but I have slept since then   

Hi Mick, most references, including the AOTS show them on the rails.  I think only CC have them going through the bulwarks.  Seems to be dispute whether Endeavour had them at all but I like the look of them so decided to go with that and stuck with the kit method also. 

 

"Someone did tell me what it's called but I have slept since then    "

ROFL It gets a bit like that sometimes.  They are called thumb cleats and redid them today and glued them on.  Photo below.

 

 

Cheers

Slog

[Captain Slog]

Hi,

 

Just a small update today, the fish davit.  This is shown in the AOTS and provided by Caldercraft with an open ended sheave.  The part is supplied from one of the solid walnut sheets which is very cleanly cut by CNC including the open sheave.

 

I had to wait until I bought some 0.8mm sheet brass to make the sheave.  It was actually quite difficult to cut the sheet and make a round 3mm x 0.8mm sheave but since most of it is hidden inside the davit I got it round enough.  I used 0.8mm rod for the pin.

 

 

I chemically blackened the sheave and pin but for some reason the blackening didn’t take to the brass sheet.  I wonder if the brass composition of the sheet is different from the rod which I have had good success with in the past.  I also included a couple of eyebolts in the top surface as per the AOTS.  The davit is just shown in position for the photos but will be removed later as it sticks out a fair bit.  I will pin it to the rail when the time comes.

 

Cheers

Slog

[Jeff-E]

Hi Slog,

 

 Very nice work on the fish davit. It seems surprising to me that Caldercraft went to the trouble of suppling a very nice CNC cut part for the davit but did not supply a sheave to go into it  

[Richard Griffith]

HI Slog, thank you for your build log.  Your workmanship is superb, the results are beautiful.

 

Duffer

[src]

Very nice Slog!! I learn something virtually every time I visit.

Your sheave looks perfect to me since it will be mostly hidden. You have the wheels in my scull turning though. There have been a few times at work where I have had to turn a screw head down for one reason or another, I have done it by chucking the screw up in a cordless drill and spinning it against a running belt sander. I wonder if something similar could be done to make a small sheave? Perhaps soft solder a rod to the sheave hole and spin it the same way then unsolder it? Just a thought. 

Sam

[RGL]

Nice work mate

[Captain Slog]

Hi,

Greg and Duffer thanks for the kind words much appreciated.

 

Hi Slog,

 

 Very nice work on the fish davit. It seems surprising to me that Caldercraft went to the trouble of suppling a very nice CNC cut part for the davit but did not supply a sheave to go into it  

Jeff, when I read this I had a real “oh…!?” moment and rushed to the plans but no mention of a supplied sheave, whew!  Yeah you would think it would be a supplied part.

 

Very nice Slog!! I learn something virtually every time I visit.

Your sheave looks perfect to me since it will be mostly hidden. You have the wheels in my scull turning though. There have been a few times at work where I have had to turn a screw head down for one reason or another, I have done it by chucking the screw up in a cordless drill and spinning it against a running belt sander. I wonder if something similar could be done to make a small sheave? Perhaps soft solder a rod to the sheave hole and spin it the same way then unsolder it? Just a thought. 

Sam

Hi Sam, thanks for the suggestion and I tried it out this morning.  Using a 3mm hole punch I tapped it against the brass sheet to scribe the circumference and using tin snips and side cutters trimmed the excess off as best I can.  I marked up 2 in-case of mess ups.

 

 

Then after drilling a 0.8mm hole to match the rod I soft soldered the rod into the hole.  Trimming the rod quite short I placed it in my Dremel and using only the first 2 settings on the speed range fired it up and held a file against the edge.  Slow and steady was the order of the day.

 

At one stage I pressed to hard and bent the rod but was easily pushed straight again.  Once that was done I wondered if it would be possible to put the groove in? So fired the Dremel up again and used a miniature triangular shaped file pressed against the 0.8mm edge of the sheave.  This was a bit hit or miss as the file would sometimes skate off the edge removing the bevel it just made!  IT was quite difficult to remove the rod afterwards though and needed to re-drill the hole.

 

Thinking on your idea and other possible solutions I wondered if it would have been easier to buy 3mm brass rod instead but then have the issue of cutting off a 0.8mm slice.

 

 

Okay, after messing around with tiny parts moved on to something a wee bit bigger, the anchors.  Photo shows the required parts.  4 cast metal anchors and the stock halves from solid walnut sheet.  The 1mm brass rod is needed for the anchors rings.

 

 

Okay, a small issue from CC and a near disaster by me which I wasn’t sure if I should mention due to my stupidity but decided to share anyway. Got to show the good the bad and the ugly I suppose.

 

Firstly I cleaned up the minimal casting flashing on the anchors with some files and cleaned up the holes with a 1.5mm drill.  Then cut out and trimmed the walnut stock halves.  Here is the first issue; the grooves cut into the stocks are too deep.  When the halves are pressed together around the anchor there is a considerable gap.  I think I will glue some 0.5mm strip into the bottoms of the grooves and see how that works.

 

The brass rings are from 1mm as per the plans but they don’t say what diameter.  After some measuring and checking I bent the wire round a 6mm diameter drill shank and I think they look okay size wise.

 

Here it goes   .  I thought I would silver solder the rings together after feeding them into the holes in the anchor. I placed the join as far from the anchor as possible and used the torch to come in from the side to keep the heat away.  Well it turns out the melting post of the cast white metal is well below the melting point of the silver solder and started to melt.

 

Thankfully I removed the heat quick enough and didn’t loss the end of the anchor as the ring started to morph its way through the casting.  After squeezing as much material back into the space, tidying up with files and re-drilling the hole. The saved anchor can be seen second from the top.  Not to bad as could have been a lot worse    I ended up using CA glue on the ring joins which will be hidden in the anchor hole.

 

 

Painted the anchor castings and the pump components using Games Workshop Chaos Black spray.  Not to worried about the rings as will be doing puddening on them next.

 

 

Cheers

Slog

[Jeff-E]

Hi Slog,

 

Your sheave looks brilliant, great work.  and a good soution for making them.

 

Sorry to hear about your anchor but you made a good save . Have you tried using electrical solder and an electric or gas soldering iron? I have used them with success on up to 1.5mm brass wire, it has a lower melting point than silver solder

[Micklen32]

Good job Slog and great repair

Looks really good

Great work as usual   

[src]

Slog, nice save and it looks like you might have a way of making sheaves too. 0.8mm slices on the rod/tube...hmm perhaps mark and spin it on your drill/dremel/drill press? Maybe using a razor saw as it spins? I have the same challenges coming up, kind of brain storming on your build.....

 

On your ring situation if low temp electrical solder doesnt work or isnt strong enough there are these tweezers I have been eyeballing myself at Micro Mark, I wonder if they might work for you.  http://www.micromark.com/heat-sink-soldering-tweezer,7064.html

 

sam