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USS Constitution by AndyMech - FINISHED - Revell - 1:96 - PLASTIC


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The lighter weight thread should be used in the upper rigging, with the larger thread used further on down. That is a general rule of thumb. When given a choice between to sizes, quite often smaller is better for the scale effect.

 

Russ

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The Revell rigging instructions are pretty good on this point - smaller rigging higher on the masts.  Where I believe they fall down a bit is in resource management - they don't provide enough rigging line to rig as intended.  They also only specify large and medium for the duration of the running rigging.  So I'll plan on using the "small" thread where I can as I have lots of it in order to preserve the medium/large (sorry, don't have the actual measurements).

 

I would also claim that telling the difference between their medium and small, once it's on the ship, would be something hardly anyone could determine.  Still, I like to do it as correctly as possible.

 

Andy

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I started work this weekend on step 2 of the running rigging instructions.  Sheet and Clew lines.  Since I'm building without sails, the instructions state these lines were tied in place and left up on the masts.

 

I finished the foremast and started the main mast before quitting for the day.

 

Andy.

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Andy:

The rigging is looking pretty good so far. Painting the blocks makes a big difference. In the photos, they actually look like they are stropped. Nice work.

 

Russ

Edited by russ
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  • 2 weeks later...

Really shaping up Andy!  NICE.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Thanks, everyone, for the kind comments. I really do appreciate it, and it helps keep the motivation up.

 

I've not had an update recently, but not due to lack of progress. I completed the sheet and clew lines (step 2) and started on the lifts. In fact, I was so busy that I didn't have the time to photograph it. Also, getting a good photo seems really tricky as the running rigging lines are everywhere and bringing out the new work is hard.

 

Thanks again,

 

Andy

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I know what you mean about the photos Andy.  I took a couple of shots of mine yesterday and just trashed them.  Need to find a good background I guess.

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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I have built two of these, both many years ago. The first was for my fathers office lobby, we had a plexiglass box built to put over it and a table built to display it on.

 

A couple of years later I was in the office when a prominent attorney from a nearby large city came in and was admiring the ship and asked if I knew who built it.

 

I replied that I had built it a couple fo years earlier, then he asked how much I wanted to build him one. We haggled a while and I got him to have delivered to my house three pallets of used brick for a Bar B Que and patio and so I built my second one.

 

the first one was partially destroyed when a deer jumped through the plate glass window about dawn one morning and knocked it off the table. I fixed it and it still sits in the office. and the second now sits in the attorneys den at his home.

 

A beautiful ship.

 

runner63

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As promised, a couple of photos.

 

Today, I started the lifts on the foremast.  Yesterday was spent painting blocks and tying them to the deck in preparation for the lift lines.  The upper two yard lifts are tied to the deadeye rail at the masttop.

 

This first photo was from earlier this week.  I was about to head to work when the sunrise came through a window and lit up my model quite nicely.

 

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These next two are attempts at the lift lines.  You can probable make them you if you try real hard.

 

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Andy.

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Andy:

The lift lines easy enough to see. Very good work on your rigging.

 

Russ

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a beautiful picture of her in baskign in the sunlight :)

 

Current builds : HMS Bounty, Constructo Pilar

Next build : undecided

On the Shelf : AL San Juan, Mamoli HMS Victory

Builds on hold : Ochre Gorch Fock, Hachette/Amati Black Pearl

Previous Builds Gallery : Virginia; King of Mississippi

Previous Builds logs : AL King of Mississippi 1/80

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GREAT sunlight photo.  The frame for your case is a bit avante-gard :D

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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looking very good Andy....superb job indeed!

I yam wot I yam!

finished builds:
Billings Nordkap 476 / Billings Cux 87 / Billings Mary Ann / Billings AmericA - reissue
Billings Regina - bashed into the Susan A / Andrea Gail 1:20 - semi scratch w/ Billing instructions
M&M Fun Ship - semi scratch build / Gundalow - scratch build / Jeanne D'Arc - Heller
Phylly C & Denny-Zen - the Lobsie twins - bashed & semi scratch dual build

Billing T78 Norden

 

in dry dock:
Billing's Gothenborg 1:100 / Billing's Boulogne Etaples 1:20
Billing's Half Moon 1:40 - some scratch required
Revell U.S.S. United States 1:96 - plastic/ wood modified / Academy Titanic 1:400
Trawler Syborn - semi scratch / Holiday Harbor dual build - semi scratch

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i think its his temporary case to protect his model augie :)

 

Current builds : HMS Bounty, Constructo Pilar

Next build : undecided

On the Shelf : AL San Juan, Mamoli HMS Victory

Builds on hold : Ochre Gorch Fock, Hachette/Amati Black Pearl

Previous Builds Gallery : Virginia; King of Mississippi

Previous Builds logs : AL King of Mississippi 1/80

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Yes, it's a very cheap PVC tube and window film box (I won't dignify it with the word case) to keep the dust out. I can only find the time on weekends to work, so I like to protect it during the week.

 

It also relieves the pressure to get a real case quickly as I can use this instead.

 

Avant guard! Awesome.

 

Andy

Edited by AndyMech
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Great idea Andy.  Sure beats the old bath towel routine!

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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I can see the light, perhaps, at the end of the tunnel, but I try not to think that way.  I'm afraid it would me to rush things and do a sloppy job of the final rigging.  Over the weekend, for example, I only added 2 lifts to the main mast and rigged a couple of blocks.  I'm on step 3 of the running rigging.  I may finish that step next weekend, if I can get some time in.  I'll post photos, perhaps, at the end of each rigging step.

 

Thanks for stopping by - appreciate the comments.

 

Andy.

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She's looking awesome!  This was the model that changed my life and solidified this hobby for me when I was in college.  You've really done a splended job.  I also like your temp dust case.  I'm going to build my next one the same way. It must be pretty light, but stable being out of PVC.

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Hi, Andy, the beautiful model turns out !  :)

Best regards,

Garward

 

 

Is under construction Montanes

 

Ready models Golden Star Corsair San Francisco II

Bronze 24-pdr canone Le Fleuron

Bronze 24-pdr canone Le Fleuron (second version)

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Thanks!  The "case" is indeed quite light, but large so a bit unwieldy.  I have found a way I can get my ship out of "storage" without help, but I get nervous each time that I might drop it or bang the case.  I'm using a foam-core base, which isn't really that strong.  It bends in the middle and isn't quite long enough to completely go to the end of the case.  I would recommend a firmer base, but I'm at a loss as to what might be light enough and stiff enough.  Any ideas are welcome.

 

So far, so good.  I wish I had created it earlier in my build actually.

 

Andy.

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Andy-  this might be overkill but Tower Hobbies sells a 3/4" thick balsa 'building board' in various sizes.  I've attached a link below.  I have used them for years for my model airplanes albeit for a different purpose.  They have several different sizes/prices.  Pretty much rock solid in the 36" length...would easily hold 15 pounds.

 

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVZ63&P=7

Edited by Augie

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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That's a great thought. Light and stiff, and a plastic ship and case don't weigh too much, but the outside dimensions of my case is 18x42 inches. The largest board they carry is 16x48, so close, but won't work, I don't think. Thanks for the idea though.

 

I remember when I built my one and only balsa airplane, one recommendation was to use a large ceiling tile as a base. I wonder if they come in larger dimensions?

 

Andy

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Wow ---- you need 18"+.  Well, you could always custom cut a piece of 3/4" plywood.  I don't think ceiling tiles will have the strength to make you comfortable.  Unless you laminate your foam core board to it :)

Augie

 

Current Build: US Frigate Confederacy - MS 1:64

 

Previous Builds :

 

US Brig Syren (MS) - 2013 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Greek Tug Ulises (OcCre) - 2009 (see Completed Ship Gallery)

Victory Cross Section (Corel) - 1988

Essex (MS) 1/8"- 1976

Cutty Sark (Revell 1:96) - 1956

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Share on other sites

Very nice job Andy.  You are about at the stage I am at with my build.  I started mine in Feb. 09, but quit in March of 2010 due to major burn out.  Just now picking up where I left off so I will be following your post closely especially your pictures.  I'll post some pictures as I can.  All of my pictures from the start of this were lost when my laptop was stolen.  I am trying to find a backup of them now, but don't know if I'll recover them.  I wanted to document my build like you have, but just discovered this site.  Good luck, and keep up the good work. 

John

Current Current Builds:

US Brig Niagara on my website

FINISHED BUILD LOGS:

New Bedford Whaleboat - page on my Morgan Website:  http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com/whaleboat-build-log-by-john-fleming.html

C.W. Morgan - Model Shipways 1:64 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1785-cw-morgan-by-texxn5-johnf-ms-164-kit/

USS Constitution - Revell 1:96 http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1796-uss-constitution-by-texxn5-johnf-revell-196-kit/

 

website US Brig Niagara Model http://www.niagaramodel.com

website Charles W Morgan Model http://www.charleswmorganmodel.com

website PROXXON DISCOUNT TOOL STORE http://proxxontoolsdiscount.com

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I've been adding the lift lines to the yards - trying very hard to keep things symmetrical and balanced.  So far, so good.

 

I don't think the photos turned out very well, but better than nothing.  I still need to finish 2 more lifts on the mizzen mast lower yards and then move on to either the lower sheet and tack lines or the leech and bunt lines.  I may do the leech/bunt lines first (step 5), skipping step 4 for now as I think it might give me easier access to the pinrails if I leave off the sheet lines for a while.

 

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Andy.

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