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Another Rope Walk


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Based a simple rope walk I spotted on another forum, I modified the turns by using a disk instad of a bar with bent coat hangers this will work with bent coathangers as well. this is basically just a schematic. I will be building myself one quite soon and will add to this thread with more detailed information and descriptions. the idea is to not have to deal with meshing gears.

 

 

 

post-202-0-20360500-1361002916_thumb.png

 

Michael

Edited by michael mott
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Hallo friends,

I search on Internet several type of ropewalk machine and finally, I discovered the pattern above.

I built the machine and It works very well.

 

It must be said that the left disc must rotate clokwise, while the right one should rotate counter-clockwise.

One at a time respectively, before the left one, and after the right one.

When the left one is working the right must be blocked and vice versa.

 

I add that the construction is very simple and fast, and it is very cheap: only 1 coathangers and 2 plywood tablets  each size 10x10 inch

Edited by fabius.b
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I don't know if Michael's machine is just like mine.  If it is, the function is due to the eccentric position of the handle, that allows the rotation of the three hooks.

 

I have some photos of my ropewalk machine, hosted on flickr. If it is possible, I can put the link.

 

 

It seems possible:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fabiusb/8479131764/

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fabiusb/8478049097/in/photostream/

Edited by fabius.b
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Today I began to make
the simple rope walk the first step was to cut the two main components of the
drive end.



The first step was to
use something readily available, I had a length of 3/32 brazing rod so the
first step was to make sure I could bend it easily I used some round nosed
pliers to make the first bend


post-202-0-37351700-1361128879_thumb.jpg

 



2) Next I used some
scrap 12mm birch plywood and cut of a square from one end.



post-202-0-99675100-1361128883_thumb.jpg



3) The square was marked
to find the centre.



post-202-0-33815400-1361128889_thumb.jpg



4) then using the high
school geometry lesson marked out the three equal points on the circles



post-202-0-15143900-1361128894_thumb.jpg



5) after the three holes
were drilled the square was stuck to the main plate with some double sided tape
and the holes were transferred to the main plate using the first set as guides.



post-202-0-15398900-1361128898_thumb.jpg



6)this ensured that both
sets of holes were in the same locations.



post-202-0-89733700-1361128902_thumb.jpg



7) the trickiest part
was to ensure that all the bends were equal in length, I did this with a couple
of scraps with the small vice clamped firmly in the wood bench.



My goal here is to use
the simplest tools and method.



post-202-0-20680900-1361128906_thumb.jpg



8) lining up all the
rough blanks to see that they are within a margins of sameness regarding the
bends.



post-202-0-52875100-1361128909_thumb.jpg

 

9)test assembly to see
that the square piece rotated , there was no point continuing if is didn’t.



post-202-0-00003400-1361128913_thumb.jpg



post-202-0-71046800-1361128868_thumb.jpg



10) the holes were
drilled with a number 36 drill which gave some looseness to the brass rods in
the holes and it rotated easily with no binding at all, so on to the next step.



post-202-0-99758700-1361129185_thumb.jpg



11) the centre shaft is
the only one that needs to be captured so the .093” (3/32)  rod was tapped with a 4x40 thread. I kept
wanting to do things on the lathe with the machine tools but the goal to do as
much by hand as possible because not everyone has a lathe



post-202-0-15357200-1361129193_thumb.jpg



12) the three whirl
shafts were cut to length by simply cutting them off with a pair of heavy side
cutters with the round whirl plate in situ



post-202-0-03371400-1361129204_thumb.jpg



post-202-0-43446000-1361129210_thumb.jpg



post-202-0-05269900-1361129214_thumb.jpg



post-202-0-16758200-1361129173_thumb.jpg



13) the whirl plate is
locked on with a couple of washers and two 4x40 nuts. Its lunch time and I’m
waiting for some batteries to charge up so I will continue after lunch .

 

Michael



 



 

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GTM,

 

Sorry, my virusscanner blocks your site: 'MALICIOUS URL' ???

 

 

That's strange why your virus scanner doesn't like this site ..

 

As i know there shouldn't be anything suspicious with it, It is a "normal" blog with pictures and some text created with Google’s blogger App.. 

It might be that Google is adding "Malicious" stuff into it ?

 

Is anyone else having the same problem ?

Edited by GTM
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Part 2



14) The top was made
from the cutoff from the top of the mast



post-202-0-13725600-1361150152_thumb.jpg



15) the base of the
whirls was made next and pre-drilled for the screws



post-202-0-85660300-1361150154_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-92706800-1361150156_thumb.jpg
 

16) next came the wire
for the top guide, the wire is .011” music wire.



post-202-0-94548500-1361150158_thumb.jpg



17) to secure the music
wire to the whirl frame I opened up a small eyebolt with a crescent wrench



post-202-0-84834000-1361150160_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-69379300-1361150162_thumb.jpg
 

 

18) mounted it to the
base.



post-202-0-46418200-1361150164_thumb.jpg



19)The bottom end was formed with a guitar winder I had in the scrap box

 

post-202-0-41681500-1361150166_thumb.jpg

 

An over view of the
entire contraption.



post-202-0-25337700-1361150169_thumb.jpg



20) next the whirl
hooks, because this is a prototype and I want to be able to take it apart(too
many years fixing other people exhibits that did not account for maintenance) I
threaded the end of some thick walled brass tube with 4x40 to match the rods


post-202-0-01773000-1361150628_thumb.jpg

 

21) the tube was then
cross drilled with a 1/16th drill for the taper pins. And cut off
with a jewelers saw. They were locked onto the shafts with a lock nut threaded
on first.



post-202-0-29205300-1361150625_thumb.jpg



22)The only thread that
I had handy was some cotton and the embroidery thread, so I opted for the
embroidery thread. This was tied to the small brass weight that I made years
ago for a weight drived clock.



post-202-0-97892800-1361150629_thumb.jpg



23) the rope walk was
clamped in the bench vise vertically



post-202-0-28100300-1361150632_thumb.jpg



24) I started to wind
the whirls



post-202-0-79810200-1361150633_thumb.jpg



25) the weight just
hangs , the one thing I had to do was help the top up because it jammed the
same way an adjustable clamp works so a modification is in order I will add a
length of brass tube through the middle of the guide dowel



 

26)The top end after
about 5 minutes of turning.

 

post-202-0-29176900-1361150635_thumb.jpg

 

27) tied off with a
little black cotton



post-202-0-15486700-1361150637_thumb.jpg



28) removed from the
walk with the ends trimmed.



post-202-0-41743800-1361150639_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-99757600-1361150622_thumb.jpg

 

There we go the rope is
57 inches long I started with three strand that were 72 inches long. With
practice I think that I can improve the length . this machine would work really
well in a stair well unfortunately I don’t have one so I had to stand on a step
ladder to make the whirls turn. The rope looks a bit like the old hemp rope.



 



Michael



 

post-202-0-90343600-1361150145_thumb.jpg

Edited by michael mott
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Michael,

 

It just hit me (unconsious ;) ) , can't you make a kin of feed to the 'tripple' side, as to lengthen the rope ...?

 

Have a look at this man's log, it's Polish and I can't read it, but he's a genious:

http://www.koga.net.pl/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=26364&start=160

 

Actually, look at his entire log. It is AMAZING

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Carl, thanks for the link, I think that if I can make lengths of say ten feet I will be satified with that for hand cranking.

Garward, thanks for looking in.

Sinan, this seems to work pretty well. now all I have to do is learn the ropes ;)

 

 

today I set up some modifications to use the rope walk horizontally. first I made a swivel that was too big and too heavy

 

post-202-0-52947300-1361231137_thumb.jpg

 

I used a ball race inside the tube but it did not work the way I wanted, I will see if there is a lightweight one available commercially. I took it off and just used a hook with some 50lb fishing line over the pulley which I gleaned from the scrap box.

 

post-202-0-33906600-1361231141_thumb.jpg

 

here is the set up perched on the drafting board (temporarily a large shelf)

 

post-202-0-28833500-1361231143_thumb.jpg

 

The top with 12 strands ready for making rope.

 

post-202-0-04599900-1361231576_thumb.jpg

 

and the whirl end after 5 minutes.

 

post-202-0-46049400-1361231145_thumb.jpg

post-202-0-54453200-1361231134_thumb.jpg

 

3/8" = 3 strands

1/2" = 6 strands

1"   = 12 strands

 

so now to try a longer base I have a 10 foot length of fir so will try that first.

 

Michael

 

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I spent the afternoon transferring the headstock and tailstock to the 10 foot piece of fir and eliminated one piece that had the winder for the steel wire.

The full length of the strands to start were 110 inches 

I was able to make a full 7 feet of 3/8 scale rope that scales out to 56 scale feet.

Next I will try with a lighter weight and see what that does with the same threads.

 

I will sort out a swivel for the passive end.

 

post-202-0-26297300-1361244461_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-70666100-1361244463_thumb.jpg

 

post-202-0-67910800-1361244456_thumb.jpg

 

This will do for now.

 

Michael

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Micheal you did a nice job of explaining how you designed and built your ropewalk. Impressive (including the large shop you have).

 

For those who are interested here is a video of how it works. This design differs from the other types that use gears for twisting the three (or four) strands. Obviously the video type is rather crude but it shows the principal.

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