1949 Chris-Craft 19' Racing Runabout by trashboat - Dumas - 1/8 - RADIO

[trashboat]

Here is a picture of what I mean by flush with the chine or as you stated sides. I just want to make sure I have to do this all the way along the boat And leave no edge.

[Thistle17]

If the chine run is fair and true I would keep going as you show and then bring the side panels down (up as in the picture) as far as they will go. Hopefully you will have an edge (of the side panels) proud of the underside panels and then you can sand flush with bottom. If there is not enough side panel depth to do so just fill with your glass compound and fair in.

 

If you believe the bottom PVC panels are the true run then I would carefully sand the chine to conform and keep going as stated above. My guess is this is the more correct reference (i.e.the PVC panels).

[Thistle17]

 

Paul here is the method I am using to metal foil the rub strip. In the vise is a 1/4" MDF scrap cut to the contour of the deck curve using the negative space material in the kit. If you look closely I created a 3/8" deep rabbet to reduce the contour (of the MDF) to match the width of the 1/2 round styrene I am using for the rub rail substrate.The substrate is temporarily taped to the form. In the background you will see an approximately 3/8 inch strip of the metal foil cut from the sheet. It is fairly easy to lay down centered and burnished smooth on the substarte. The next piece will slightly overlay the former strip and so on. Obviously it needs trimming but that can be done with a very sharp razor blade. Hope this helps..

Edited June 24, 2016 by Thistle17

[trashboat]

Awsome man thankyou for the help! I just started puttin gon the sides and i just made it to were there is a bit of an edge on both sides so that i can blend the two together if all else fales bondo!

[trashboat]

Ok I was told not to use bondo as it could absorb water what should I use or is bondo ok?

[gjdale]

In Pat's book, he recommends using Milliput (a two part epoxy putty). I'm going to use that but haven't got that far yet. Pat recommends not using Bondo as it sometimes has difficulty adhering to plastics.

Edited June 25, 2016 by gjdale

[Thistle17]

I really like the sandable ease of EverCoat Rage. It is a 2 part filler and adheres to the PVC (roughen the PVC up though). It is used in auto body repair.

[trashboat]

Ok thanks guys.

[trashboat]

Well not much progress this weekend I got the sides on and the front nose started (Not In Pic) also cut out all the seats and mounts. I'm not very happy with the way it turned out going to have to fill a lot of gaps and bumps but its all part of the hobby!

Edited June 27, 2016 by trashboat

[Thistle17]

Paul don't be discouraged by this stage of the results. I too felt as you do right now. This kit needs an upgrade in terms of manufacturing. You will begin to see a "different boat as you apply the planking so take heart. As for the planking take some extra care as you adhere the planks near the bow. I had a couple lift an edge as there is no good way to clamp them as you lay them down. I had to use low viscosity CA and hand pressure to "flatten" them down. A messy process and the seams soaked the CA. Lots of sanding to get past that.

[trashboat]

ok so you just filled the seams with CA did you use any type of filler?

[trashboat]

Changed Gears yesterday Going to start working on mounting the motor and getting the electronics set up.

[gjdale]

You might want to consider replacing the motor mount blocks with something other than balsa. I used some scraps of pine for mine - just felt a little more secure for holding the mounting screws.

 

I just noticed that in the two pics above, your steering column support appears on different sides - starboard side in the top pic, and port side on the bottom pic. The starboard side is correct.

[trashboat]

Yeah the picture somehow how got mirrored, it is on the starboard side. Also I had read that in Patts book , in the instructions it says to reinforce it with resin but I may just take the route you suggested and go with a pine.

Edited June 30, 2016 by trashboat

[Thistle17]

Paul I used filler as I related earlier on the PVC substrate. The Evercoat 2 part filler and I backed up some joints on the inside of the hull with CA'd wood fillers. As for the planking when it was laid dow, whether it sprang loose or laid down correctly I did have to use filler. I used the colored filler you can buy at Home Depot (Elmer's or others) that comes in the squeeze tubes. It has a paste like consistency and will rub into the joints well. I used cherry colored filler. However I caution; it colors the surrounding planks  if it gets away from you, and you will see the smear after clear coating the hull. I had to sand down the clear coat and then the planks to get it to blend. I'd suggest masking off the area you apply fill to.

[trashboat]

Ok thank you I will have to keep that in mind, right now im installing all the electronics.

[trashboat]

I have a question about the stain. Did you guys stain the mohaghany or keep it in its natural color. I seen that it comes with stain and I want to make the top deck lighter than the sides and back. Any tips on achieving this?

[Thistle17]

I did not stain anything, rather just applied the top clear coat and let the mahogany do its thing. The strips are pretty uniform in color so the sides and deck came out quite well. If you want the deck planks lighter you may have to use different stock. I'd suggest you experiment, off model, with some different stains and stock. You may also try some of the Trans Tint dyes (using alcohol instead of water) to color the material. Don't use basswood.

[gjdale]

I haven't got that far yet, but plan on using the lit supplied stain. Everything I've read says it looks a bit orange when it goes on but after the resin us applied, it goes a very nice colour. I'm also using different timber for the cockpits and dashboard, where I'm using some Redheart, which will just receive a clear finish.

[trashboat]

​I got the epoxy/resin and fiberglass in the other day along with my new FS Remote I will be using with this boat and other future boats.

[trashboat]

I​ got all of my electronics wired up, tested and ready to go, along with all of the hardware assembled.

[trashboat]

I got all of my plastics panels put on and squared off now the next step is planking! ​

[WackoWolf]

Looking good. You will be in water soon.

[trashboat]

Thank you and yes hopefully by the end of July!

[trashboat]

A little more progress , stained the sides and top outer edges, im not going to stain the top deck. Hopefully have the planking done by tonight then sand it all down and get ready for glass work. This is probably my favorite part of the build seeing it all come together.

 

[cwboland]

Did you use styrene to caulk between the planks? It looks really good and almost vintage

[Thistle17]

My grandson and I fastened the rub strips to the sides just this week. Again we used metal foil over styrene 1/2 round of appropriate scale. We used CA (20 second) glue to fasten to the sides sparingly. It took both of us to do it. The CA was applied to sections and then held in place. The results were quite satisfying.

[trashboat]

Yes to the question , it was styrene that came with the kit. I can't wait to get it in the water !

[trashboat]

I'm going to have to check that foil I don't know if I'm going to use the foul that was given I may use a product called bare metal foil.

[Thistle17]

It is one and the same. I did not use the duct foil as it was a bit too thick in gauge. Be careful with the Bare Metal Foil it rips easily.