HMS Triton cross section - FINISHED - by G.L. Scale 1:24

[G.L.]

Next thing to do is fixing the inner planking of the lower deck.

[G.L.]

Some special attention is to be drawn to the lower deck clamp. To determine the angle of the upper side of the plank I fasten with clamps a lath on the bottom level of the lower deck beam. I hold a piece of cardboard against the frame and mark the lined of the bottom deck beam and the frame.

This cardboard will be the template to saw the deck beam.

 

[G.L.]

The deck clamps are in place and the last gaps in the planking are filled.

[G.L.]

While the glue is drying I start to make the lower deck beams and the lower deck beam arms. On the fourth picture the deck beams are laid in the model but not yet fastened. Before I will do that, the lower deck has to be tree nailed.

[-Dallen]

Really enjoying your build log. The progress is fantastic as is the craftsmanship.

[G.L.]

Thank you Allen, but do not overrate my skills, I am rather new in ship modeling.

Tree nailing is a bit a boring job. I didn't count them but at this stage I have to drill some hundreds of holes and fill them again with as much bamboo nails.

 

[G.L.]

When the tree nails are glued, it is time to sand the lower deck.

To reach the narrow planks which are thinner then the surrounding planks, I made a sanding block of a piece of plywood.

 

[G.L.]

The deck beams are made, now I make the 4 hold pillars. I make five in case one of them is not good. On the plan they are represented as square pillars, I will round off the corners. I do it with a small chisel.

[G.L.]

Now I can glue the deck beams in place. To fix the pillars, I drill a hole for a bamboo pin in both sides of the pillar and also on the locations where they will stand on the keelson and in the deck beams.

[G.L.]

I did not see my mistake before everything was dry and fixed: I didn't look to the plan before fixing the deck beams and glued N° 1 to 3 at equal distances. That means: unfasten deck beam N° 3 and replacing it.

[G.L.]

Now they are glued at the correct interspaces.

[G.L.]

While drawing the notches  for the carlings on the deck beams, I realize that it would have been better to carve them before fastening the  deck beams. Anyway it is too late now, I have to carve them while they are in place. I learned my lesson for the gun deck.

[G.L.]

... and it works!

[G.L.]

Anyway, I make the notches for the ledges in the carlings while they are still removable.

[G.L.]

The result of an afternoon of carving:

[tkay11]

And a very nice evening for me to watch the progress!

 

Tony

[G.L.]

Tony, I am glad that my log is perking up your evenings. I am a interested follower of your cross section log and have learned a lot after you.

[G.L.]

I make now the hanging knees.

First of all I attach a piece of drawing paper to the model to be able to copy the profile of the inner planks.

 

[G.L.]

On that profile, I draw the knee shape and cut it out. Before using it as a mould to saw the knees, I check it on the model.

[G.L.]

The contours of the mould can now been marked off on a piece of oak and sawn out.

[G.L.]

I make the knee a bit too high. The top edge of it can be marked when holding it in place. 

[G.L.]

Once the knee is sawn to the correct shape, I round the corners of with the Dremel sanding drum.

[G.L.]

The process of making the lodging knees is pretty well the same as for the hanging knees. Where a hanging and a lodging knee are meeting each other, a notch has to be made in the hanging knee.

[G.L.]

G.L.

[G.L.]

The final touch for the knees is putting some treenails in it.

[G.L.]

Meanwhile the limber boards are divided in lengths of ± 3 feet, following the advice of Pete38. Thanks again Pete for the information.

[G.L.]

Now I make the ledges. I place a wooden stick below the middle hanging carling to support it as long the deck is not yet planked.

The open spaces in the lower deck are slowly filling up. As you can see I made also carling notches in the outside of the outer deck beam although they are not needed for the cross section, but I judge that the ship was not ending at the edge of the cross section.

[G.L.]

When all ledges are made, it is time to glue the knees in place. Therefore I remove the ledges again in different stages.  To find my way in the puzzle I lay them out in same pattern as they are placed on the carlings.

Then I put tree nails in the carling ends.

[G.L.]

Once the glue is dry, I can sand down the lower deck.

[G.L.]

I make now the main topsail sheet bitts. I think that the pictures are self explaining. I made the bitts sheaves in the same way as Tony (Tkay11) explained in his post 50 with the big difference that I made them of wood (I have no metal lathe). My pictures of the production process of the seaves are to unsharp to post them.

I will wait to fix the bitts until a later stage.