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Triton 1/48 by The Learner


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Guy,

I have a gas grill too... Okay, I'm way off topic here.... Soak the wood in water and put it in an old pie tin or make a tin like shape from aluminum foil.  On a two burner grill, put the soaked wood on one burner, put the meat on the other. I usually start the wood a few minutes before the meat to get it smoking.   Yummmy.

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Hello Guy!

 

We do not have BBQ here... we make the bbq on the floor at the garden using Quercus robur or holm oak, there´s lots of them arround.

 

With the chips of wood and I have a few,,, I prefer to recycling them by composting the whole thing with all the leftys of the cooking. Here is a pic of the fashion timbers, the wales, whatever when I was doing the stern.:

 

post-87-0-56189200-1371153626.jpg

 

Cheers from Soria (Spain)

 

 

Daniel.

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I wish I had more time to Barbeque because I do love meat cooked on the barbie (not the doll)!  Mark I will try your method though!

 

Good news is that I got my bandsaw blade back repaired and had a second one made 6tpi instead of the 4tpi that I had repaired, I am hoping that I can get a smoother cut so back to work we go~

 

 

Thanks guys

 

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Has any one attached the first two bollard pieces to the stem? There is not enough information on the plans set to answer this question. I have been prusing my other sources,IE books and the best I have came up with is Admiralty Vol I but there are a lot of diffrences to not be able to exactly determin how I would attach and shapt these pieces and they are important to line up the other hawse pieces correctly.

 

Do I line up the bollard piece with the grove for the planking and what is the height of the top above the stem?

 

I hope these questions make sense!

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Beautiful work on the frames, Guy :)

 

With regards to your question on the position of the bollard timber, based on TFFM, it appears that its fore edge should line up with the inner border of the rabbet/groove for planking (green arrow) then once close to the stem head/top portion of the stem, its forward edge moves further forward and lines up with the outer border of the rabbet  then continues upward to form the knighthead ( blue drawing).

 

I measured the 1/48 plans and the top portion of the bollard timber/knighthead is about 22.8mm above the stem head (red arrow/circle).

 

post-256-0-20227800-1374662716_thumb.jpg

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57/64th Ok I will try that and see where it lies. I have yet cut the rabbit on the stem because I was unsure of the shape it this area. 

 

Tell me about the drawing you are making the measurements from?

 

Thanks, Guy

Edited by the learner
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Ok so at 22.8 mm I have the bollard piece set in place.

 

post-1091-0-36445900-1395983244_thumb.jpg

 

A little clearer picture.

 

post-1091-0-76101200-1395983180_thumb.jpg

 

So my question, does this look appropiate? as you can see I have a void under the bollard piece! do I just ignore this or do I have the wrong shape in the deadwood piece?

 

post-1091-0-82169200-1395983216_thumb.jpg

 

My measurement was the same also using Adobe PDF but the drawing does not really show the shape of the bollard head at this point! should I just guess at what the shape is at this point using others drawing or pictures? There is a good picture in the Niad build I could use

 

Bollard size.pdf

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That void indeed seems to be a bit of a predicament, Guy.

 

I decided to juxtapose the MSW Bollard Timber drawing (blue) with the MSW Disposition of Frame (DOF) Plan and Inboard Profile in the hope of solving this predicament, and written below are my findings:

 

As seen in the picture below (click on pic to enlarge), it appears that the provided bollard timber drawing does not include the knight's head in its composition (encircled in green) and only goes as high as the toptimber height (red arrow). There also seems to be a void (red circle) at the bottom of the bollard but it is not as pronounced.

 

post-256-0-19959100-1374887525_thumb.jpg

 

Given the above analysis, my previously provided height of 22.8mm is not applicable since it is meant to be used only if the bollard timber includes the knighthead in its composition as provided for in TFFM.

 

Based on my retaken measurements, if your bollard timber is based on the MSW Plan, its top should only be 13.64mm high from the stem head so as to coincide with the top-timber height (see picture below):

 

post-256-0-05598800-1374887887_thumb.jpg

 

If you already have your keel set up on a baseboard, a more accurate measurement of the top of the bollard timber is 186.53mm from the baseline/bottom of the false keel, as seen in the picture below:

 

post-256-0-26182300-1374888389_thumb.jpg

 

 

Furthermore, since you are aiming for a precise location of the bollard, it should be positioned in such a way that it's fore edge is 7.68mm from the fore edge of the stem:

 

post-256-0-79504000-1374888540_thumb.jpg

 

 

Just a small disclaimer, I am not working on the POF version so I cannot claim that my analysis is 100% accurate, hopefully, someone with a POF build could chime in to verify my findings.

Edited by rdsaplala
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Well perhaps its not 100%  accurate but it certainly helps! I will have to take a closer look at the drawings and take some more accurate measurements. As for the void it will not show so if I rebuild the fore cant deadwood or anouther build I will make sure that my work is more accurate. If the bollard timbers are suspose to be longer I will recut to allow for the additional meat and length.

 

Thanks

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Thanks for the vote of confidence, Guy :)

 

...If the bollard timbers are suspose to be longer I will recut to allow for the additional meat and length.

 

Thanks

Or you could proceed with your current MSW-based bollard then just add the knight's head as a separate piece once the capping rail has been completed.  This may seem like cheating  but, in all honesty, it is much easier to shape the knight's head as a separate piece, and once installed, no one would ever notice  ;)

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  • 1 month later...
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Hey Guy!

 

Nice to hear from you! Try to work at least one hour a day on her. It worked for me. Sometimes I spend hours in the workshop, but so many days I only spend half an hour or just one. The point is to keep the thing going. It does not really matter if you complete a full frame or just cut four futtocks, if you are "constant" you´ll catch me for sure. I asure you.

 

Any pics of that honey boos?  Must be a wonderful weather for the bees up there in California!

 

Best wishes.

 

 

Daniel.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Guy,

 

Very nice work and I have been following your build and it's gorgeous. I do have a question about your keel, since I'm rebuilding mine. Did you use pins or treenails for the scarf joints and how far from the top of the keel did you place them? Are they below the rabbet or do you plan on cutting it? Thank you.

 

Again very nice work and look forward to seeing more.

 

Randall

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I used treenails but I suggest that you use copper, see EdT's build of the Niaid on this site or better yet get his books from Seawatch! They will explain all you need to know about nails and iron fittings for your model.

 

 

Back from Hawaii, have about 12 more frames to finish and then progress should go much faster as I start attaching them to the keel

Edited by the learner
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I still have about 15 frames to construct. I am cutting out the patterns to glue on the wood. I still need to cut a couple of additional pieces of board to do this.

 

I have started attaching frames to the keels!

post-1091-0-68654500-1395982870_thumb.jpg

 

post-1091-0-69456100-1395982901_thumb.jpg

 

post-1091-0-13340600-1395982933_thumb.jpg

 

 

As this is the first time that I have constructed a build in this manner the going will be slow. I always have that fear that there will not be enough wood when I start fairing out. As you can see, I have done some fairing on the inside and a little on the outside to accommodate the temporary riband

 

I will try taking and posting as many pictures as possible to show this progress.

Edited by the learner
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