HMS Victory by Zarkon - Constructo - Scale 1:94

[Old Collingwood]

I would suggest to start planking your inside walls using the frames as guides attaching the plankes to the inside of the frames, but also making some other strengtheners between the frames, as you will be having to make your gun ports.

As long as the plankes attached to the frames are not to thick, you should be fine keeping the scale thickness of the side of the middle gun deck, as it would have been atleast 2 feet thick if not more.

Regards.

 

OC.

Edited February 15, 2018 by Old Collingwood
that spilling mast ache problem - must lean to spill.

[Zarkon]

On 2/14/2018 at 10:40 PM, Old Collingwood said:

I would suggest to start planking your inside walls using the frames as guides attaching the plankes to the inside of the frames, but also making some other strengtheners between the frames

 Thank you for the advice! I have started to build up the inside walls according the the plans in the book.  I also built one gun carrage to test fit to make sure the guns will fit properly (inside and having the gun protrude enough out of the ship). 

 

 

I will post more of the walls once I have the time. I also will utilize your advice and add some strengtheners between the frames. I'm also adding a few nail markings like I did on the deck floor once I use the sealer, they will be a little more noticeable.

 

Thanks!

Jeff

[Zarkon]

Well boo. I'm not happy with the inner walls so far. I have completed 3 rows on each side, and I feel it doesn't look very good.

 

1) the planks are NOT even in height:

 

2) the planks do NOT sit flush against the deck and other planks (small example):

3) The door frames are also out of alignment by 1mm which will affect the positioning of the gun ports:

It's hard to tell by the photo,  but I re measured 3 times to validate. 

 

4) I also measured where the gun ports that go on the other decks,  and realized that the ports go through the frames.  Boo.

 

 

 

So... I'm thinking of ripping off the inside walls on both sides and doing it again; and also maybe moving the top parts of the frames I made so they don't hit any gun ports.  Feels like 3 steps forward,  2 steps back. 

 

My issue is, I need a good way to accurately sand off the sides of the wall strips to angle them correctly against the frames and to sit flush against the deck, the frames, and the other planks. I have tried to sand the planks manually, but there is no way I can get the angle even over the full length of the plank.

 

Any suggestions on hoe to accurately sand planks to angle them slightly?

 

Jeff 

 

[Zarkon]

Hello All,

 

I haven't posted in a while and that is because of a few factors:

 

1) No time to work on it (work, family etc)

2) A little stumped on a certain part of the build (but not enough time to be able to dedicate to figure out a way forward)

3) I feel, like some posted early on, that my skills are not quite up to the task of what I want to do with the model

 

With that said and with a heavy heart, I have decided to take a break from this model for a while.  I will come back to it, but I feel that I need to take a step back.  I feel I was doing a lot of work for very little gain, or not being happy with what I did and having to rip it all up and start over (multiple times even!).  Unfortunately, it was feeling more like an up hill battle than a relaxing/fun hobby.

 

It saddens me to have to post this, but I have to be truthful with myself and give myself the opportunity to gain more experience with the hobby before continuing with this build.  I have learned a LOT from all of you and through my pitfalls which is a great thing.

 

I think for my skill level, I need to start with a smaller kit.  I think this will be a much better fit for me and how much time I can currently dedicate to the hobby.

 

I am thinking of posting that build with the intention of keeping with the kit instructions with no added details to help me get a better foundation to the skills of the hobby.  I WANT to get better and make wonderful ships.

 

Thanks for listening!

 

Jeff

[Dan Vadas]

A good move Jeff. HMS Victory is probably one of the most complex models one can build, and is really NOT a beginner's kit. A step back is a good idea, go with something that will teach you all the skills but that you can finish in a reasonable amount of time to get the satisfaction of completing your first wooden ship.

 

You can always come back to Victory in the future. I did exactly the same with my first Victory (which was actually my 5th or 6th wooden model) when "life" also got in my way. I took a 10 year break from her .

 

Danny

[Zarkon]

Thanks Dan.

 

You have really made me feel better about my decision.

 

I have decided to start L' Hermione La Fayette from Artesania Latina. I like all the pictures of the instruction manuals (which are PDF and I can display them on my tablet which is nice too).  I already feel that I am progressing much better (I wouldn't say "faster" because it's more about feeling that I accomplished a part of the ship rather than how fast I can complete it) and it's more satisfying to build.  I'm thinking of posting my progress so far.  This ship is much more "doable" with the time I can dedicate to it per week and with my current skill level.

 

Jeff

[Zarkon]

This is my last post for this build for a while.  I have started a new build here for the Artesania Latina  L'Hermione kit.

 

Thank you all for your support and kind words! They will help me a lot for my new build!

 

Jeff 

[wstalcup]

Hi! I just ordered this same model "Constructo HMS Victory"  thanks for helpful insight.. While I am waiting to receive the kit in the mail, I was wondering if you knew of a URL link to the instructions..(i can't find anywhere)  and/or  what specific tools you used or would now suggest, so i can order them as well.  Thanks!

[Zarkon]

On 4/2/2020 at 11:06 AM, wstalcup said:

Hi! I just ordered this same model "Constructo HMS Victory"  thanks for helpful insight.. While I am waiting to receive the kit in the mail, I was wondering if you knew of a URL link to the instructions..(i can't find anywhere)  and/or  what specific tools you used or would now suggest, so i can order them as well.  Thanks!

Hiya!  I do not know where to get the instructions online.  I looked too and couldn't find them.

 

As for tools,  I would suggest a mini manual miter saw set and get a saw for it with a high tooth count.  Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G9NP7O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_CylIEbQYRE5BK

 

  Also, different grits if sand paper 80, 100, 220, 400.  Also get some sanding blocks.  I have small and medium sized ones.

 

Also what I found very helpful was

http://www.fourmostproducts.com/our-products/construction-tools/

look for the miter sander.  I use this for precise angle sanding. I use adhesive sandpaper for this so it's easier to change. I would not recommend their miter saw from this site because it can cause wood to crack along the edges.  Use the Amazon link above for a miter saw.

 

I use Titanbond wood glue for most of the glueing.

 

Lastly, get some hobby knifes and heavy duty blades.  Light and medium blades might break and that would be bad.

 

This is just a basic list and I might be leaving something out.

 

As for building the kit,  i would highly recommend building a build board to hold your model while you are working in it.  There are many references to how to build one on this site.

 

I hope you enjoy your model and have fun!!!

 

Jeff

 

[wstalcup]

On 4/4/2020 at 12:38 PM, Zarkon said:

Hiya!  I do not know where to get the instructions online.  I looked too and couldn't find them.

 

As for tools,  I would suggest a mini manual miter saw set and get a saw for it with a high tooth count.  Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001G9NP7O/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_CylIEbQYRE5BK

 

  Also, different grits if sand paper 80, 100, 220, 400.  Also get some sanding blocks.  I have small and medium sized ones.

 

Also what I found very helpful was

http://www.fourmostproducts.com/our-products/construction-tools/

look for the miter sander.  I use this for precise angle sanding. I use adhesive sandpaper for this so it's easier to change. I would not recommend their miter saw from this site because it can cause wood to crack along the edges.  Use the Amazon link above for a miter saw.

 

I use Titanbond wood glue for most of the glueing.

 

Lastly, get some hobby knifes and heavy duty blades.  Light and medium blades might break and that would be bad.

 

This is just a basic list and I might be leaving something out.

 

As for building the kit,  i would highly recommend building a build board to hold your model while you are working in it.  There are many references to how to build one on this site.

 

I hope you enjoy your model and have fun!!!

 

Jeff

 

wow! awesome! thanks for the suggestions.. great stuff!

[wstalcup]

2 minutes ago, wstalcup said:

wow! awesome! thanks for the suggestions.. great stuff!

oh! for the Titanbond wood glue.. did u mean "TiteBond"?   and should it be the original or ultimate?

[Zarkon]

On 4/8/2020 at 12:34 PM, wstalcup said:

oh! for the Titanbond wood glue.. did u mean "TiteBond"?   and should it be the original or ultimate?

Sorry about that. I ment Titebond.  I use either Titebond II or Titebond III. Whatever I can find at the store.  3 takes longer to dry than 2.  Both are great wood glues and you wouldn't have any problems using either.

 

Jeff

[Bill Morrison]

On 5/26/2017 at 3:41 AM, Tallshiptragic said:

Hi Jeff,

 

Victory is an ambitious build very it's a first kit or a model for an experienced modeler. 

 

I can can relate to building something smaller first, however there is little difference in the actual building. Most modelers will build a smaller vessel as they get to see a finished result much sooner than that of a three decker, however as long as you're patient any modeler can accomplish marvelous results with more complex kits. Just keep asking for advice and take your time with anything that concerns you. 

 

Now a building board is very useful for the initial construction to help keep the false keel and frames at straight angles to get a true shape of the hull. Now if your keel in the kit is meant to be added after planking, make sure when you make up the building board that there are slots for the frames to sit in. Now the keel that isn't straight are you meaning the ply false keel for the frames or a walnut finishing piece that mounts on the ply false keel? Soaking or steaming then placing under weights can work however there can be some shrinkage. Personally I'd just replace the piece and cut a new one that is true using the plans.

Personally, I do not subscribe to the idea of starting small.  Start with a ship that interests you; you are far more likely to finish it by acquiring more skills as you learn.  No less than Mondfeld agrees with this point of view.  For example, I started with the Model Shipways Phantom, a small pilot schooner.  It is unfinished today after 25 years.  Yet, I have built the Bluejacket USS Constitution, Flying Fish, Model Shipways USS Essex and many others.  The Phantom is boring to me.

 

Bill

[Paul0367]

I’ve just found this model build and wondered why the build stopped prior to reading your statement, I hope you pick it up again, can I add I’m building this very kit as a first timer, I stop and start 2014 started.  I wanted the Caldercraft version but thought it was to expensive for a model I wasn’t even sure I could entertain. Looking back I wish I had, reason being the instruction are so much more comprehensive and help the builder far more than the constructo version. Not to mention more accurate and scale makes her less fiddly. Wait until you get to the rigging and the kit sort of says for rigging, look at plans, no when,where,what,how, they may as well have wrote GOOD LUCK, and have do with it.