US Brig Syren by fnkershner - Model Shipways - 1:64

[HIPEXEC]

1 hour ago, fnkershner said:

Ok its time for a bit of a mid week update. Step 1 of Chapter 5 is complete. Step 2 calls for bending and planking the counter and transom. I soaked the planks over night and now as before I have cut out the template from the plans and clamped the strips to Plexiglas with the plans underneath. This will have to sit over night. So for now the Syren will take a break.

 

I would like to take this opportunity to talk about the metal parts that come with the Syren and tell you my plans for them and ask your opinion. I do hope the rest of the Syren club will chime in. I will take each part and offer my ideas and I hope you will the same.

 

Ship's Bell - I have ordered from Model Shipways part number MS0426. Which is a pair of copper Bells that are the right size and look so much better than the part that is supplied.

 

Ship's Wheel - I have ordered from Chuck one of his wheel kits. I haven't tried to assemble it yet but it is so much better than the metal thing provided.

 

Figure Head - Unfortunately I have not found a suitable substitute for this item. I doubt my carving skills at up to the task. I am going to try several different painting approaches. if I don't like the result I will order another from Model Expo.

 

Side Badges - These ugly things are in the trash. My Syren will live without.

 

Stern Decorations - Here again I have not found a useful substitute. I will try painting and use them.

 

Stern Chaser Cannons - I have order replacements from Chuck and I am now playing with assembling them.

 

Cannonades - Like most people I intend to replace these if I can find a US source to order them.

 

Cannonade wheels - I am hoping that Paint will deal with the ugly moldings. Over all these guns will need serious attention to be at the same quality as the rest of this model.

 

Metal Belaying pins - I would prefer wood. but I think I may have to stick with these.

 

Is there anything I have overlooked?

The guns are called Carronades. They were first made by a Scottish company named Carron. I hate the provided side badges also and will probably make my own. I'll take a look at the provided Carronades and maybe change them to regular cannons too.

[Peter Bloemendaal]

I haven't made my mind up yet on the metal bits. My original plan when choosing to build the Syren was to just use the bits in the box and make it work. If I can make it to the finish line with a model even at 75% of the quality of the model shown at the end of the instructions, then the bits in the box have done their job.

But I must admit, when the box arrived I was a little bit disappointed with the quality of some.

For now, I'll just sit on the fence for a bit. If the build goes spectacularly well, I might replace them. It's still early days for me at Chapter 2.....

Cheers,

Peter

[fnkershner]

Rich - I have several of Chuck's cannons if you want them. I really enjoying them for the stern chasers.

[Tigersteve]

Many people seem to use Caldercraft carronades. Check Dirk and Thomas' logs. 

Steve

[MD11pilot]

Hey Floyd!  Glad to see you back. Like you, I’ve been on a VERY long break with my Syren. It will be nice to resume with some of the old chums still hanging around. 

I think your figure head came out quite well. It will look great in position with all the other rigging around her. 

Eric

[fnkershner]

Just a quick update for the Syren club. I am doing the counter and it is slow going. I have all planks soaking but I can only do a lateral bend of one at a time. I have the first 2 in place and the third is bending. 3 more are soaking. In the meantime I have started to work on the garboard strake and the rest of the wale.

 

Note to all Syren Builders - I know in Chapter 5 it says to do the counter then the Wales. but I suggest you do it the other way around. When you lay the wale the plank runs long out the stern. it is easy to cut flush and sand so that the counter covers. It is harder to lay the plank if the counter extends out the side.

 

While I wait for soaking and bending I am also playing with Chuck's cannons for the stern chasers. They are a bit of a challenge to assemble but look great when complete. Pictures on Saturday.

 

Hey Eric! good to see you back. Lets see your log  

[fnkershner]

Attention Syren Club!! Here is a big update. (I am taking a break before I begin all that sanding). First let me share with you my jig for bending the planking strips for the counter.

 

Ok with the latest version of this blog I don't seem to be able to intersperse pictures with text. So the next set of pictures is a little project I have been working on while waiting for planks to soak or bend. Or just goofing off.

 

I purchased a couple of Chuck's Cannons for the stern chasers and I was anxious to see how they would look assembled.

A couple of notes here for anyone using these cannons - First in the instructions Chuck says to glue the sides to the axles first then add the front and back strips. I found this difficult and very hard to get the angle correct. (the sides are not square) So instead I glued the front a back to the axle first. this gave me a reference point and a larger surface to glue. I still found it challenging at this scale. So I got a rather large diameter wire and used that to hold the sides while they were glued.

 

I then used an old belaying pin and sanded down the handle for the handle on the Quion. Drilling the hole for this was also and interesting challenge. As you can see there are still a few steps left but I am rather pleased with the outcome.

 

I am not sure of the limit on pictures for a post so I am going to close this one and continue on the next post.

[fnkershner]

Ok so now we have finished steps 1,2,3, & 4 of chapter 5. Step 5 is Treenails and 6 is the rest of the hull planking. all that remains is cleanup and sanding in many places before the Treenailing begins.

 

So let me talk about the treenailing a bit. First thanks to everyone who contributed to the selection of drill bits. I have settled on the number 75. In the picture you will see a few different sizes used. I also experimented with different stains. I have some Danish Oil that I like very much and on the left side you will see that used. I also had some putty that I wanted to try. On the right side is the Minwax golden oak stain and golden oak putty. I think I like this combo the best. I also had a problem with the drill wandering in my Dremel. I solved this with the help of Dr. Per by using a push pin first as a drill punch. It also lets me see the pattern before I drill. it appears the flash washed out the treenaling picture the stain does look very different. especially on Boxwood.

 

PS I am sure there are members of the Syren Club who will notice I got carried away and added 1 too many planks on the garboard. 

 

 

Edited September 30, 2017 by fnkershner

[fnkershner]

Today I got off work early and the sun was shinning so what did I do? I began Planking the hull.  I had intended to finish the Treenailing first but I realized that the Treenailing was exactly the thing to keep me busy while Planks were soaking and bending. So I started an assembly line. Below is the results. 

 

Using Chuck's suggestions about measure and calculating the Taper of the planks. I discovered I needed 21 planks on each side and that at the bow they each needed to be tapered down 1/32". Now I don't know about you but my tapering is not that accurate. So I decided that since I needed to reduce the width by 20 X 1/32 I would just remove 1/2 of the width every 5th plank. Not exact but as we all know that last planking is always a strange shape anyway.

 

So I soaked 5 planks at a time in my trusty PVC pipe. and 1 of those planks was tapered first. After soaking for 30 min. they it was time for 30 min on the planking board. and the next set of planks was soaking and bending while I installed the current set. In a 2 hour period I have added 10 planks! 

 

I am really pleased with my treenailing. I have broken 4 drill bits so far. And the Port side is almost complete. the starboard is 1/2 way. Since I ran out of number 75 bits I switched to number 76. I have also resisted using the dremel. the drilling is not bad its just the number of holes. I also opted to not do as many holes as Chuck suggested. It just seemed to cluttered.

[fnkershner]

Ok elsewhere on this web site there is mention of feeling stupid. Now that is me. As mentioned above I carefully used the tic strip to calculate the number of planking strips and the amount of taper I would need. Note to Self: There are 4 1/32 in 1/8 not 8! So as I mentioned I was concerned that I would not be able to accurately taper just 1 1/32 from each plank so I instead tapered 1/16th from every 5th plank. When I should have tapered 1/16th from every other plank. So progress report: Port side is 1/2 done but all planks from now on will need significant tapering.

 

Also a note to the Syren club. I noted much to late that when Rich did his planking he did it before he did the counter. I would suggest every one think this over very carefully. when I get home from work tonight I will take pictures to explain. But if the counter is finished there is no where to hide the butt end of the hull planks. I believe I will need to remove 1 or 2 planks from the counter, sand the hull flush and then replace those planks.

 

Needless to say but the "assembly line" of soaked and bent planks has come to a halt for now.

[knightyo]

Great progress!  To me, this was the most satisfying section of the build.

[fnkershner]

Ok, So I had hoped to have all the planking done by the end of today. But I have found that with the severe upturn at the stern and all the other twists. I have to taper, soak, then install the wet planks, let it dry in the correct shape, and finally glue. And we won't talk about the number of broken planks before I gave in and did it this way. It means that I can only add 1 plank every 30 to 45 min. The picture below is intentionally taken from a distance. the port side is done but there is lots of sanding and filling to be done. The Starboard side is approx. 1/2 way. and looking much better. Maybe by the time I have planked 1/2 dozen hulls I will figure out how to do it right.

 

Thank god all of this ugly stuff will soon be covered with copper. I should also mention while waiting and waiting for planks to dry. I sanded and planked the inside of the transom. I also went to the local H/W store and found tiny brads 1.2 mm in diameter. I am hoping this is small enough for my coppering jig. Opinions?

 

I am also celebrating what for me is a first in my modeling! I actually used up a bottle of CA before it went bad.  This means my modeling is moving at a very uncharacteristic fast pace.

Edited October 8, 2017 by fnkershner

[fnkershner]

Ok Help needed from the Syren Club. What did you use for Red Paint on the inside of the bulwarks? I ran out of the paint I used for the gun ports and I wasn't sure I liked the shade of red.

[knightyo]

I used "cheap" acrylic red paint from a craft store. They have a billion different shades to choose from, and it's extremely easy to apply.  I believe I watered mine down a lot, just to make sure it flowed properly, and then applied a number of coats. 

 

Your hull sounds a lot like mine before I applied copper.  Mine was "untraditional", so it was a relief to be able to hide my irregularities. lol

 

For the jig, I was able to find little diabetic needles at the pharmacy which worked really well, once the "sharp" ends were filed down.

 

Alan

[fnkershner]

Ok Lots of catching up to do. And thanks to Alan I think I went the same way on the Paint. I have several things to post here so there will likely be 3 different entries.

 

So first I bring you my planking process The photos below show my hull Planking process.

 

First, I use my Byrnes Sander to taper my planks. I am terrible at tapering correctly so I find that using a sander is better for me. I can get a very gradual taper where I need it. and I also get a straight line.

 

Second, I have a piece of 4" PVC that is plugged at one end and filled with water. I use this to soak my planks. the clamps are used to hold the planks in place so that they do not float and later so they do not sink.

Third you see an assortment of the clamps I use on the hull. I use these to hold the plank in place while it dries so that it is the correct shape and size before I glue. for the clothes Pins I reverse the wood to give a flat clamping surface. And when I am using clothes pins for Hull Clamping. I cut a notch in to the side to grip the plank. All low cost and easy peasy.

 

And that concludes my planking post. 

Edited October 15, 2017 by fnkershner

[fnkershner]

Next a quick post on my solution to treenailing. First I decided to follow Chuck's suggestion of Golden Oak stain. I like the color. I used Boxwood for the planks above the wale. And I stained with Minwax Golden Oak. I really wanted to use my Syren to experiment with treenailing. I have seen some very good work and some poor. I selected to use a number 75 drill. This comes out to a peg that is 1 1/4 inch when scaled up this is about as close as I can come. I also didn't want it to be so obvious. I wanted you to see it but not have it stand out. So I settled on Early American Oak stain. it is very close to the golden oak but just dark enough to be different. From experimentation I have found that I will put 1 coat of Golden Oak on then drill holes and run the Early American in. Wipe everything clean. and finally a 2nd coat of Golden Oak.

 

See for yourself from my sample.

 

 

Edited October 16, 2017 by fnkershner

[fnkershner]

Now let me bring you up to speed on my current progress and share my huge disappointment and the beginnings of my recovery.

 

So first let me describe what I have learned from other logs and my planking experience. I will also comment that this is the 4th time I have done a hull planking and it is still the part of the vessel that I struggle with the most. Knowing this I would not have started the Syren unless I knew ahead of time that I was going to copper the hull and hide most of my efforts.

 

I have also learned that some members of the Syren club did their planking before the counter. I now feel this is the proper solution. I have several errors here and so I decided to cut away some of the counter planks and most of the stern ends of the hull planks. Then redo this part of my hull. The first 3 pictures are before I began repairs. The last 3 pictures is my attempt to recover. I will be struggling with the recovery for most of this week.

 

I suggest to anyone at this stage that filling in with more than just the 2 horizontal and 2 vertical shaped Pieces is advisable. I will be doing that this time. Thus I will have a good gluing surface.

 

 

 

Edited October 16, 2017 by fnkershner

[HIPEXEC]

Keep on swinging. If it was easy anybody could do it.

[fnkershner]

Ok after a week of work and avoiding the necessary huge repair job. I am back. My goal is to complete the hull Planking this weekend. First I need to complete the deconstruction. I have found that when I cut away the end of the planks in some cases I cut too close to the False keel and damaged the rabit strip. So this will need to be replaced as well. If not the stern post does not fit. I also sanded and cut away most of the counter planks. Then I began to create the filler pieces for the counter. Next I will replace the Rabit strip and add some blocks to the bulkheads to support the hull planks. Hopefully tomorrow I will start planking again.

 

Sunday is reserved for Sanding. Have I mentioned how much I love Sanding?

[fnkershner]

On a different subject. I borrowed something today.

Semper Fi.

To all who served my deepest gratitude and respect.

 

 

Edited October 20, 2017 by fnkershner

[HIPEXEC]

I still have my USMC sword. Nov 10th 1775...uuuurahhhh!

[fnkershner]

Ok its time for the Weekend update! first some misc. details. A couple of suggestions and a gotcha!

 

The first picture below is my very expensive sanding block. I went to the H/W store and they cut a 4" length of PVC for me. it cost $1. I also got a sanding pad. This has proved quite useful when sanding the hull.

 

The next picture is at the bow. I suggest it is a good idea to add some meat to the bulkheads to glue the blanks too.

 

Last note: I found and error in the instructions! And a very bit THANK YOU for Dr. Per. Since he helped me figure this out.

 

While waiting for planks to soak and putty to dry. I was trying to find other areas to make progress on this build. I decided to work on Chapter 6. On page 26 of the instructions in the first picture on the 2nd row. It show the stern Cap Rail and says it has the dimensions of 1/16" X 5/32". Then on Page 27 in the 3rd paragraph is says the Cap Rail should be made out of 1/16" X 1/4" stock. The picture is incorrect and the text is correct. I discovered this after I had carefully soaked and bent a strip that was 5/32".

 

 

[fnkershner]

My first picture shows a new problem that I did not catch until it was too late. If you look closely at the picture of the inside of the Bow in the previous post you will find the problem. The first plank did not lie flat against the frame.

 

The next picture show some progress in the repairs. And the final picture shows the new Counter. I used some 1/32" thick Boxwood I had on hand. I also had to add 1 more counter plank than the plans called for. So all that remains is some trimming and sanding. And yes there are a couple of places that will need putty.

 

So as of now Chapter 6 is almost complete, Chapter 7 is 1/2 way. and the dreaded Chapter 5 is coming to a close.

 

 

[fnkershner]

Now a question for the Syren club. In chapter 7 it talks about the Cap Rail for the Bow and sides and it talks about the margin planks for the deck. The instructions say there is a sheet to cut the Cap Rail from. but I don't find anything like this. I also found the parts in the pictures below. I assume these are Margin planks. but they appear to fit the Cap Rail better to me.

 

Ideas?

 

 

[scasey88]

Floyd, not sure if you have figured out the cap rail and margin planks yet, but I went through Chapter 7 and had to reread it a couple of times, and I think you are right about them being margin planks, the instructions do say that you will have to test fit, before gluing it down because each Syren model will vary, so it will probably have to be shaped to get the proper fit. also it said that the cap rail will need to be cut from 1/16" sheet, but did not specify this as a laser cut part, so I am assuming this will need to be purchased? I did not notice any 1/16" sheets in my kit, unless there is room left on one of the laser cut sheets after cutting out the rest of the parts, to make the cap rail.

Your stern is looking much better after repairs, good job! last night I just put down the first 5/32" plank below the gun ports and fitted the transom piece against that plank, I still need to cut the gun ports out though.

[Peter Bloemendaal]

Hi Floyd,

I haven't read the manual yet, but if you go to entry 358 of Chucks prototype build log, he discusses how he did the cap rails.

 

http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/Chuck Passaro - MS Brig Syren Prototype Build Log.pdf

 

Cheers, Peter

[fnkershner]

I want to thank everyone who has contributed to my log and all the likes. It has been an adventure. So let me bring you up to date. The Planking has been fixed. The counter has been replaced. The Stern Cap rail has been recreated again! The margin planks for the deck are installed. And the Water line has been marked.

 

So a bit of detail on each of these. First the Stern Cap rail. As mentioned above I first started with a 3/16" wide strip and this was fairly easy to bend. Then I realized I needed a 1/4" wide strip. This did not bend quite so easily. My first attempt broke. For the 2nd attempt I soaked overnight then I clamped it to a large diameter can and let it completely dry. Then I soaked it again and did the final bend on the model, this worked. As you will see in the photo.

 

For the next challenge. I found the Waterline challenging so I used some high tech, as you can see. The Laser worked perfectly and the Tamiya tape works very nicely.

 

I also stained the transom.

 

I found that the margin planks require some significant lateral bending, just a warning.

 

 

[fnkershner]

As I suspected the laser was not strong enough and got washed out in the picture above. So I also stepped back and you can now see a picture of the Shipyard. The laser is sitting on the tripod. I took my micrometer and measured the distance from the lower Wale to the waterline. I then used a magic marker to mark this location on the model. Finally I used the laser line to connect the 2 dots, and laid Tamiya masking tape on that line.

 

one of the pictures below is of the stand that the model will be mounted on. had to keep the hands busy while I waited on putty, paint, or soaking. You will also see the beginnings of the Copper plating jig.

 

 

[popeye the sailor]

look'in good Floyd.......glad to see you recovered nicely from the stern dilemma    I notice the four drawer work bench......did you get that from Harbor Freight?  I was at the local store buying some tools,  and I saw the same one for sale......looks just like the one you've got there.    got it on my list as a Christmas present   

[fnkershner]

Popeyes you absolutely correct I have had mine for a few years. It was inexpensive and did the job